chriszeh wroteYeah doesnt make sence to change the pads. Thanks for your responseyou dont need new pads with new fluid. you shouldnt get any warnings. not sure on the location of the master cylinder in our car.
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Master cylinder is on the drivers side. You'll need to remove the trim panel that houses the micro filters. You don't need to change them just to flush brake fluid. You certainly will get a chance to inspect them.
Looks like a great kit for a great price.
Looks like a great kit for a great price.
Yeah, The kit should be here today.
Oh ok, so if the master cylinder is in the Driver side I will start with RR Driver side? or RR Passenger side?
Thanks!
Jose
Oh ok, so if the master cylinder is in the Driver side I will start with RR Driver side? or RR Passenger side?
Thanks!
Jose
Car54 wroteMaster cylinder is on the drivers side. You'll need to remove the trim panel that houses the micro filters. You don't need to change them just to flush brake fluid. You certainly will get a chance to inspect them.
Looks like a great kit for a great price.
mendez wrotePersonally I start with the drivers front (FL) and get all of the reservoir junk out first, then I bleed RR,RL,FR,FL. Try to get about the same amount per corner, about 1/4 liter. The longer runs of the rear = the extra fluid room in the front calipers.Yeah, The kit should be here today.
Oh ok, so if the master cylinder is in the Driver side I will start with RR Driver side? or RR Passenger side?
Thanks!
Jose
If you don't already know, brake fluid eats paint. Use water to clean it off spills.
Good luck.
I already did my Brake & Clutch flush ! The Clutch bleeding was a pain in the b.....(first time I tried on my M3)
The car had the OEM Dot 4 (brown), I replaced with super blue dot 4....Now clutch feels a little softer, it's that normal??? Is the super blue brake fluid is thinner???
FYI: I let the clutch bleed for a while and there was no air bubbles..
The car had the OEM Dot 4 (brown), I replaced with super blue dot 4....Now clutch feels a little softer, it's that normal??? Is the super blue brake fluid is thinner???
FYI: I let the clutch bleed for a while and there was no air bubbles..
what kind of brake fluid are you guys using?
For M3, you may have enough room, but for my 2008 335Xi, there is absolutely no room to reach the bleeding valve.
The damn valve is way deep behind the hard lines. Even if I find a extra long wrench to reach it, there will be extremely limited room for me to make even a half turn. And there is the rubber cap part, no way I can put my hand in and take that cap off; imagine I have to put it back on, also connect the hose cap to it.
I cannot believe the design of this. This is just designed to make sure that no one can touch it!
A picture is attached here
The damn valve is way deep behind the hard lines. Even if I find a extra long wrench to reach it, there will be extremely limited room for me to make even a half turn. And there is the rubber cap part, no way I can put my hand in and take that cap off; imagine I have to put it back on, also connect the hose cap to it.
I cannot believe the design of this. This is just designed to make sure that no one can touch it!
A picture is attached here
elp_jc wrotePleasant clutch bleeding surprise folks. After half an hour of turning the bleeding valve a full turn with my vacuum machine attached to it (no freaking s p a c e -why the hell the system censors that word????) and no fluid, I knew I was dealing with a check valve. Got out from under the car, opened door, push clutch pedal with hand and it went in like butter. Did that 10 times more and I was done. Clutch worked perfectly after closing it. Next time it's going to take me 2 minutes after removing shield.
Here's the drill:
- Remove belly pan (3 screws in front, 2 in back, and 2 on each side).
- Remove cap from valve and loosen it one full turn with a 1/4" ratchet and 11mm standard socket.
- Valve will just spew fluid when you push the clutch pedal, so use any method you want to catch it that won't splash. This is a one-person job folks.
- Push clutch pedal slowly (and return slowly as well) about 10 times, and you're done.
- Screw valve clockwise with ratchet until you feel a 'click' and it stops turning. DO NOT apply too much force since it's PLASTIC.
- Reinstall belly pan and you're done. This is the easiest clutch I've ever bled, and the most effective way is by pushing the pedal, but I never do it that way since helper can screw up. No chance for that here; great feature.
By the way, rear brakes require a 9mm closed wrench and front 11mm, and are regular valves (the way I like them on the brakes). Job done in about an hour with a vacuum bleeder (the best way IMO). Fluid was clean (no debris inside the reservoir, like most of my new cars), which was good news, so no need to destroy the filter to clean the reservoir. Just amber in color. From now on will do it yearly, like all my other vehicles. Just $10 and an hour of my time. Well, probably 2 hours since I like to clean the undercarriage. Hope this helps folks.
Thread referenced by dukeandtheland in Clutch fluid bleeding - Absolutely no room for me! 10-23-2012
um stupid question, but if I'm using a pressurised bleeder tool, do i have to take the wheels off to change the brake fluid. So long as I jack the car up and can get to the bleeder nipples I'm good to go right?
You can do it with the car on the ground so long as you get to the bleeders. Be careful of spilled fluid on wheels though. Use water to rinse of messes.
question i have is how do you reset the computer for service date after you do the bleed? i tried reseting it the same way i did when i changed the engine oil using the computer buttons on the steering column but for some reason it wouldn't reset. any tips or tricks that i'm doing wrong? thanks for the photo's the steps were very easy to follow!
Search youtube for a video...it's the same process for all the conditions based services.
A must for any DIY. Resetting the service indicator.
The detail from mikem's thread Service reset DIY
Step 1
Insert key into slot
Step 2
Press start/stop button without depressing clutch/brake and wait for the service reminder to disappear.
Step 3
Immediately after service reminder goes out, press and hold the odometer reset. After 3 secs a warning triangle will appear, keep the odo. button pressed and after another 2-3 secs the Oil can will appear. I f you hold it too long (10 secs in total) you will overshoot the runway and some German writing will appear giving the software level/ can bus etc. of the car. Go back to the beginning and start again.
Step 4
You are now in the service menu, use the toggle switch on indicator stalk to scroll up/down through the various service items.
Step 5
When you have the item you want to reset showing, press the BC button on end of indicator stalk. Reset should now appear in the display. Press in and hold the BC button for 2-3 secs and a clock will start whirling around and hey presto, its done
Step 6
You can now either scroll up/down to select another item (as in step 4) or you can press the start/stop button to exit.
The detail from mikem's thread Service reset DIY
Step 1
Insert key into slot
Step 2
Press start/stop button without depressing clutch/brake and wait for the service reminder to disappear.
Step 3
Immediately after service reminder goes out, press and hold the odometer reset. After 3 secs a warning triangle will appear, keep the odo. button pressed and after another 2-3 secs the Oil can will appear. I f you hold it too long (10 secs in total) you will overshoot the runway and some German writing will appear giving the software level/ can bus etc. of the car. Go back to the beginning and start again.
Step 4
You are now in the service menu, use the toggle switch on indicator stalk to scroll up/down through the various service items.
Step 5
When you have the item you want to reset showing, press the BC button on end of indicator stalk. Reset should now appear in the display. Press in and hold the BC button for 2-3 secs and a clock will start whirling around and hey presto, its done
Step 6
You can now either scroll up/down to select another item (as in step 4) or you can press the start/stop button to exit.
I've just replaced my fluid on an 2008 320d M Sport LCI, and although the brakes are good they are not as solid as before.
I purchased a vacuum pump which didn't work so resorted to the tried and tested 2nd person pumping (Opened value, pumped until looks like new fluid and no bubble, held brake on floor and tightened the lock valve, Offside Rear, Nearside Front, N/S R, O/S F). Its been mentioned above this could be something unavoidable without BMW specialist / main dealer equipment, is this the case? If not any other suggestions
BTW I've bleed brakes on numerous cars in the past using the same method.
I purchased a vacuum pump which didn't work so resorted to the tried and tested 2nd person pumping (Opened value, pumped until looks like new fluid and no bubble, held brake on floor and tightened the lock valve, Offside Rear, Nearside Front, N/S R, O/S F). Its been mentioned above this could be something unavoidable without BMW specialist / main dealer equipment, is this the case? If not any other suggestions
BTW I've bleed brakes on numerous cars in the past using the same method.
Curious to know if anyone is using diagnostic software to activate the ABS system when bleeding/flushing brakes...TIS says to do it once for rear and once for front thanks.
Just did the brake flush a couple days ago with the Motive bleeder and man it was a breeze!
I went to my friends house (he has a lift) and went underneath the car without taking off my wheels and used the motive bottles to prevent any spillage.
The maintenance minder on the Idrive says every two years. The fluid that came out looked pretty good, not dirty at all. But I flushed it out anyways.
Great DIY =)
I went to my friends house (he has a lift) and went underneath the car without taking off my wheels and used the motive bottles to prevent any spillage.
The maintenance minder on the Idrive says every two years. The fluid that came out looked pretty good, not dirty at all. But I flushed it out anyways.
Great DIY =)
Hi,
My 2011 just gave me the indication. Is the procedure pretty much the same? I'd like to do the flush myself using the 2-man method but the mention of ABS is giving me 2nd thoughts. Is the majority taking their cars to the dealer because of this?
My 2011 just gave me the indication. Is the procedure pretty much the same? I'd like to do the flush myself using the 2-man method but the mention of ABS is giving me 2nd thoughts. Is the majority taking their cars to the dealer because of this?
Can a bleeder with check-valve on the hose work? I used to do it on older cars with this and worked really well as a one-man job.
Nowhere is it mentioned about the cheap and simple hose with "check-valve" at the end....it goes out, but won't come back in...
(if you do use the check-valve, be sure to spray or put some oil on the steel ball of the valve for storage. It rusts over time esp around seat).
So that I pump the pedal several times(and checking the reservoir level), see that old fluid is gone and new color is showing...then lock the nipple.
Is it related to ABS pump that requires 2 people doing the job? Doesn't seem like it if we use $$$vacuum pump.
Please clarify...
Nowhere is it mentioned about the cheap and simple hose with "check-valve" at the end....it goes out, but won't come back in...
(if you do use the check-valve, be sure to spray or put some oil on the steel ball of the valve for storage. It rusts over time esp around seat).
So that I pump the pedal several times(and checking the reservoir level), see that old fluid is gone and new color is showing...then lock the nipple.
Is it related to ABS pump that requires 2 people doing the job? Doesn't seem like it if we use $$$vacuum pump.
Please clarify...
Just finished flushing the brakes for the first time, very happy with the results and that I could do it myself! Here are some things I learned:
Removing the box cover in the engine bay uses an 8mm wrench;
I used a motive pressure bleeder, worked great as a one person job: 10 psi to test pressure, 15 psi with fluid;
I have a stoptech bbk, 11mm bleeder screws; and
2 wheels I did not even have to remove but 2 needed to be removed as not to strip the bleeder screws. I am buying an 11mm flare nut wrench to make future flushes easier.
Total time was 2 hours but if I did not have to take off two of the wheels I would have finished in an hour. I think doing it again I can finish much quicker.
Removing the box cover in the engine bay uses an 8mm wrench;
I used a motive pressure bleeder, worked great as a one person job: 10 psi to test pressure, 15 psi with fluid;
I have a stoptech bbk, 11mm bleeder screws; and
2 wheels I did not even have to remove but 2 needed to be removed as not to strip the bleeder screws. I am buying an 11mm flare nut wrench to make future flushes easier.
Total time was 2 hours but if I did not have to take off two of the wheels I would have finished in an hour. I think doing it again I can finish much quicker.
I got a motive power bleeder to do this car and the E36. Did my brake pads, bled my brakes, and then proceeded to bleed clutch per this thread's recommendation.
To make cleanup easier, I don't even put fluid in the pressure bleeder. I just keep an eye on the reservoir and fill frequently.
Brakes was cake. Clutch was almost a disaster. The early information in this thread is kind of misleading. I was panicking when my clutch went soft and air was blowing out the bleed valve. I found out that is because the clutch feeds from a high point in the reservoir so you have to keep it topped off at max, and the short line to the clutch bleeds fast.
Also clutch goes soft easily, but when the reservoir is filled, pumping the clutch multiple times (20-30x?) makes it firm up to how it feels when it is normal.
Anyone interested in bleeding the clutch please read this thread first:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491319
To make cleanup easier, I don't even put fluid in the pressure bleeder. I just keep an eye on the reservoir and fill frequently.
Brakes was cake. Clutch was almost a disaster. The early information in this thread is kind of misleading. I was panicking when my clutch went soft and air was blowing out the bleed valve. I found out that is because the clutch feeds from a high point in the reservoir so you have to keep it topped off at max, and the short line to the clutch bleeds fast.
Also clutch goes soft easily, but when the reservoir is filled, pumping the clutch multiple times (20-30x?) makes it firm up to how it feels when it is normal.
Anyone interested in bleeding the clutch please read this thread first:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491319
Just performed my BF flush after two years and replaced the BMW fluid with retail Castrol Dot 4. Used the Motiv DIY brake bleeder, and removing each wheel and completing the job took about two hours. The old fluid was slightly less translucent compared to the new, but of the exact colour - yellow. Seriously, maintenance on these cars thanks to some excellent DIY post is easy, time and money saving, and gives you some joy!
Thank you all
Thank you all
Hello all. Time to flush the Brake system and put in some new fluid. Driver rear bleed screw frozen and then broke. Tried to get it out on the bench to no avail and so bought a new caliper. Put it all back together and then using a pressure bleeder, bled all four calipers with 500 ml of new fluid. First go with pressure bleeder was air pressure only (no fluid) at about 12 psig. Took the car out for a spin and virtually no pressure but I could pump it and build pressure enough to lock up the brakes. Try bleeding again with same method as previous and a slight improvement but not much. Tried again a third time with traditional pump brake process. No improvement. Tried again with the pressure bleeder but used fluid in the pressure bleeder instead of just air as done the two previous attempts. Flushed almost an entire liter through the calipers but still have little pressure on the pedal and need to pump it to get pressure which is firm and can lock up (activate ABS) the brakes. I'm about to give up and take it in but thought I would reach out to see if there are any obvious steps or considerations I am missing. I have read this entire post and others and I'm convinced I am not doing it wrong but I do think I am missing a step not specifically described as it relates to my e92 M3. TIA to all those that reply.
Never heard of trying to force air thru the system. That's the opposite of what you want.
