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06-25-2026LAST POST
Gotfuel wrote
Just read through this entire thread. Maybe something that would be helpful is for the folks looking at an 08, what are the differences to look for. I’ve read the clutch and flywheel and that it would be upgraded to the newer >=09 spec. No I drive. Older taillights. Generally speaking, if you buy a car without NAV (single hump) what are you giving up? Do you lose access to driver adjustments that can be made? Or do you just have to get used to making changes via an ODBII tuner? Lots of folks with 08’s so I’m less concerned about buying an 08 if I found the right one, but always good to go in to a purchase armed with as much info as possible. I read the 09-13 sticky, but was less helpful, and the 08 was oddly missing from the list.
iDrive is available for the 2008 E9X cars, it's just not the later 'updated' iDrive. The '08 tail lights are incandescent bulbs rather than the LEDs used on later LCI models. Generally speaking, if you buy a single hump car you are giving up choosing your own "M" button mode driver settings - which are changeable within iDrive. Without the hump there is no iDrive so you have to accept the factory default "M" button settings.

You also lose the NAV screen, as well as some climate control and other personal preference settings available in iDrive such as daytime running lights, climate fan intensity settings, parked car reverse fan ventilation, independent key settings such as the shift lights etc. etc. So yes, you do lose access to some driver adjustments such as "M-Dynamic" traction control. I could be wrong about that, but it doesn't seem to me there would be a way to select M-Dynamic traction control w/o the iDrive menu. Take a look a some of the resources below for more information.

2009 vs. 2008 M3 - differences?
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199793
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Good article about the differences and evolutions
https://carbuzz.com/cars/bmw/m3-e90-e92-e93
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Turner Motorsports comprehensive buyer's guide
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-BMW_E9X_M3_Buyers_Guide
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Similar article to Turner M'sports but not as detailed
https://www.truecar.com/blog/used-buying-guide-2008-2013-bmw-m3/
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This video covers most of what you needed to know especially known mechanical issues..
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Thank you. After dinner reading.
DrFerry wrote
iDrive is available for the 2008 E9X cars, it's just not the later 'updated' iDrive. The '08 tail lights are incandescent bulbs rather than the LEDs used on later LCI models. Generally speaking, if you buy a single hump car you are giving up choosing your own "M" button mode driver settings - which are changeable within iDrive. Without the hump there is no iDrive so you have to accept the factory default "M" button settings.

You also lose the NAV screen, as well as some climate control and other personal preference settings available in iDrive such as daytime running lights, climate fan intensity settings, parked car reverse fan ventilation, independent key settings such as the shift lights etc. etc. So yes, you do lose access to some driver adjustments such as "M-Dynamic" traction control. I could be wrong about that, but it doesn't seem to me there would be a way to select M-Dynamic traction control w/o the iDrive menu. Take a look a some of the resources below for more information.

2009 vs. 2008 M3 - differences?
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199793
.
Good article about the differences and evolutions
https://carbuzz.com/cars/bmw/m3-e90-e92-e93
.
Turner Motorsports comprehensive buyer's guide
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-BMW_E9X_M3_Buyers_Guide
.
Similar article to Turner M'sports but not as detailed
https://www.truecar.com/blog/used-buying-guide-2008-2013-bmw-m3/
.
This video covers most of what you needed to know especially known mechanical issues..
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Just 1 main issue about the buzz article, they state the valve covers are plastic, they are not, they're aluminium [edit, or at least they're metal, someone suggested to me they are a magnesium alloy]. I've emailed them about it (we'll see if they're interested or not).
Assimilator1 wrote
I've been made aware of other sources of info by BMW from a master/senior tech at the dealer I work at.
Turns out that BMW's S-Gate (which I did know of) has a Wikipedia like section called Technipedia (which I didn't know of), within this (amongst much other info! It's very interesting for a BMW geek like me! ;)) is a section for the Alternator in Drivetrain>Engine electrical system>Alternator>Intelligent Generator Control (IGR).
It starts by saying this was introduced 'Since about 2004', and 'In marketing, IGR is often also designated as "brake energy regeneration".' (which is the term we know for our M3s).
In this it describes switching off the alternator to save fuel and allow more of the engine's power to go to the wheels (when the battery has enough charge).

If the battery is at a high state of charge the alternator only charges on the over run/braking (something I've only ever seen on my long trip to the Nurburgring (I'm in SE England). I have a meter on the dash displaying volts, as well as ECT. When cruising/accelerating it was showing battery voltage of 12.3-12.6v ish, AFAIR).

If the battery charge is middling it'll only provide enough power for electrical consumers when cruising/accelerating and won't charge the battery (quite how it would stop any charge going to the battery it doesn't say, and personally I would make an educated guess that it doesn't. But that the charge rate is minimal. Voltages I see at this level are about 13-14v, ish ;)).
On the over run/braking it still charges at full capacity.

If the battery charge is low enough* the [...]
Sir, outstanding and informative post. Thanks for the deep-dive!
Great thread.
Thank you for this valuable information, I will be referencing this page if something comes up!
Agree. Great thread!
Thanks
[edit] Was referencing a post that's since been deleted (see quote below).

I'd disagree about your 3rd point, re VANOS, it does not and cannot be inspected* or 'maintained', with one exception. The original VANOS covers (made of thin plastic) are starting to distort and sometimes break up on some cars. Otherwise the VANOS units are a fit and forget item, unless it goes wrong of course! ;)
*From the point of view of routine maintenance.

Re Throttle actuators, agreed, except they can't be serviced, as for checking them, that's done by the ECM(DME). If they play up, then send them off to e.g rebuild.org and they will repair them.

Re Carbon build up, sorry but you're completely wrong here! The S65 has indirect injection, or port injection as the US likes to call it, so there is no issue with carbon buildup on the inlet valves. Maybe you're thinking of the later M3/4s?

Good point about joining a (local) community, I should do really....

DrFerry's user avatarDrFerry Just spotted this in your earlier post "parked car reverse fan ventilation", what on earth is that? lol (I don't want to spend ages finding it in Technipedia! ;)).
kerancollier wrote
Buying an E9X M3 is a thrilling experience, and there are several things that many owners wish they knew when they first purchased one. Here are some valuable insights that could have made your ownership journey smoother and more enjoyable:

Maintenance Costs: The E9X M3 is a high-performance sports car with complex engineering. Be prepared for higher maintenance costs compared to regular cars. Routine maintenance, such as oil changes and brake services, can be more expensive, so set aside a budget for this.

Vanos System: The E9X M3's S65 V8 engine has a Vanos system responsible for variable valve timing. This system requires regular inspection and maintenance. Be proactive in maintaining the Vanos system to prevent potential issues and to ensure optimal engine performance.

Rod Bearings: The S65 engine in the E9X M3 has been known to experience rod bearing wear. If left unaddressed, it can lead to engine damage. Some owners choose to replace the rod bearings preventively, even before any issues arise, to safeguard their engine's longevity.

Throttle Actuators: The E9X M3's individual throttle bodies use electronic actuators that can wear out over time. Faulty actuators may lead to reduced performance or even limp mode. Regularly check and service these actuators as needed.

Cooling System: The M3's engine generates a lot of heat during spirited driving. It's essential to keep a close eye on the cooling system to avoid overheating issues. Regularly inspect the radiator, water pump, and hoses to prevent any potential cooling system failures.

Carbon [...]
This is likely GPT nonsense for scammer activity. Don’t engage
Assimilator1 wrote
DrFerry's user avatarDrFerry Just spotted this in your earlier post "parked car reverse fan ventilation", what on earth is that? lol (I don't want to spend ages finding it in Technipedia! ;)).
In the southern United States (and even sometimes in the northern states haha) interior cabin temperatures can sky rocket due to high ambient temperatures (90F to 100F) when the car is parked with windows closed for long periods (such as all day when you're at work). This is made even worse with a black roof and not leaving the windows down slightly (due to the risk of afternoon summer thunderstorms). In order to reduce interior cabin temperatures the fan can be run backwards to ventilate extremely hot air from the cabin (using the timers found in iDrive) 30 minutes prior to one's anticipated departure. Here's some more information on the subject from the manual. Hope this helps and avoids mining the Technipedia.
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Attached imageAttached image
I have used the Parked Car Ventilation - actually many times, and it works as advertised, surprisingly well too :thumsup:. You do have to set it up each time, in other words, each time it runs, and then you start the car it clears the start time. But it was a fun 'easter-egg' function I found on the car 2 or 3 years after buying it.

Try it out, the cabin temperature will be much lower if you have left car in the hot sun all-day :happyanim:

Cheers,
Merlin
DrFerry's user avatarDrFerry
Got ya, nice one for that :)
And yea it can pretty toasty inside cars in the sun, even over here!
Useful, but you'd have to be careful of the battery charge.....
DrFerry wrote
In the southern United States (and even sometimes in the northern states haha) interior cabin temperatures can sky rocket due to high ambient temperatures (90F to 100F) when the car is parked with windows closed for long periods (such as all day when you're at work). This is made even worse with a black roof and not leaving the windows down slightly (due to the risk of afternoon summer thunderstorms). In order to reduce interior cabin temperatures the fan can be run backwards to ventilate extremely hot air from the cabin (using the timers found in iDrive) 30 minutes prior to one's anticipated departure. Here's some more information on the subject from the manual. Hope this helps and avoids mining the Technipedia.
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This is fascinating!
Thread referenced by spammysammich in Engine Ticking sound, what is it???? 09-12-2023
WAKman wrote
Wow--very useful thread, Theodore. Thanks for taking the time.
I've had my E92 M3 exactly three months tomorrow.

Terry
I’ve had 2 9x M3’s. Both had throttle valve actuator fails. Last at about 65,000 miles cost $3,500CDN. Latest issue was A/C evaporator. $3,500 to fix, about 2,400 labour with entire dash and console removal required. Fabulous cars. Just be prepared to Ante-up!
DrFerry wrote
In the southern United States (and even sometimes in the northern states haha) interior cabin temperatures can sky rocket due to high ambient temperatures (90F to 100F) when the car is parked with windows closed for long periods (such as all day when you're at work). This is made even worse with a black roof and not leaving the windows down slightly (due to the risk of afternoon summer thunderstorms). In order to reduce interior cabin temperatures the fan can be run backwards to ventilate extremely hot air from the cabin (using the timers found in iDrive) 30 minutes prior to one's anticipated departure. Here's some more information on the subject from the manual. Hope this helps and avoids mining the Technipedia.
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I just read through the pic again of the manual you provided, it doesn't mention the fan being reversed for this, are you sure about that?
I would've thought the fan would run in the normal direction, and the air expelled in the normal fashion.
Assimilator1 wrote
I just read through the pic again of the manual you provided, it doesn't mention the fan being reversed for this, are you sure about that?
I would've thought the fan would run in the normal direction, and the air expelled in the normal fashion.
What is the route the hot interior “air is expelled in the normal fashion” you refer to when the windows and doors are closed?
Although I don't know exactly where they are in e9xs, with cars in general their are hidden vents in the boot, these are usually behind the rear bumper and have thin rubber flaps over them (so they blow open with air through put, but at rest provide waterproof cover). They'll be various gaps or louvres to allow air through the trim panels.
This is how you do get ventilation even with the windows closed, but as you've probably noticed, you tend to get better air flow with even just 1 window opened a little.
Assimilator1 wrote
I just read through the pic again of the manual you provided, it doesn't mention the fan being reversed for this, are you sure about that?
I would've thought the fan would run in the normal direction, and the air expelled in the normal fashion.
Assimilator1 wrote
Although I don't know exactly where they are in e9xs, with cars in general their are hidden vents in the boot, these are usually behind the rear bumper and have thin rubber flaps over them (so they blow open with air through put, but at rest provide waterproof cover). They'll be various gaps or louvres to allow air through the trim panels. This is how you do get ventilation even with the windows closed, but as you've probably noticed, you tend to get better air flow with even just 1 window opened a little.
No, I'm not a 100% sure. It was an assumption on my part regarding how the system operates. Having used the function many times I can attest to its effectiveness during hot South Carolina summers. I will set mine to run when parked and see if I can determine where or how the hot cabin air is exiting the vehicle, or if more external and lower temperature ambient air is simply being blown in. When I think of the word 'ventilation' - which BMW used to describe the function ('parked car ventilation') - it implies to me venting of hot cabin air from inside to outside. When perhaps the function simply turns on the blower fan. I found a couple of other sources discussing the function but no real answer to your question.
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https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1401722
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https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/parked-car-ventilation.666128/
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Parked Car Ventilation Questions
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BigAl2 wrote
I’ve had 2 9x M3’s. Both had throttle valve actuator fails. Last at about 65,000 miles cost $3,500CDN. Latest issue was A/C evaporator. $3,500 to fix, about 2,400 labour with entire dash and console removal required. Fabulous cars. Just be prepared to Ante-up!
Yes, TAs typically go bad, not if but when. You could get rebuilt ones from Mpowermotorsports for around $500 (not sure about price) and they come with lifetime warranty. Replacing them is not a difficult DIY or any Indy shop should do it for no more than 3 hrs labor.
A/C evaporator failure is not as common but yes, the dashboard needs to come out making it labor intensive.., last I heard it’d cost $1200 for labor at Indy shops..

I’d say budget about $5000 for common issues regarding E9x M3 including rod bearing service and other items assuming you DIY some of the moderate difficulty stuff between 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

I’m on my 3rd E9x M3 and have had about 10 - 15 cars over the past 15 yrs, e9x M3 is the only one that does everything well while feeling special & somewhat analogue, my current M3 has 55K miles & the valve cover gaskets are just starting to leak..
My last M3 had a minor steering rack leak (sweating oil, not dripping) at 60K miles, 45K miles later with 15 track days, it still didn’t get any worse..
Thread referenced by DrFerry in New e93 M3 Owner intro 02-06-2024
Hi everyone,

I'm a new 2013 E93 owner, 44000 miles. First BMW. My prior was also a hard-top convertible, 2005 Mercedes SLK 350. I suppose I like the hard tops :)

I've been reading about the vehicle, tried to do my due diligence prior to purchasing. I see there's quite the story around the 'rod bearings'. The list in the start of this thread does mention 'rod bearing issue' respective to a theory around early replacement of spark plugs....but not specifically about changing rod bearings as standard practice.

Is this still debated? I'm curious if there's differences in model year, mine is the last year of production - is it considered any better, in terms of when you should replace them?

Considering the car is now over 10 years old, with 44000 miles, I'd be curious if there's any 'do now' service items. The oil is full, says service after 13000 miles - is that right? Seems way high.

Thanks in advance.
As you get familiar with the forum you’ll see that… yes… still debated, but generally accepted as best practice to replace the RBs if you intend to keep the car long term - even if only for peace of mind. That said, I picked up my 2011 E93 3 years ago at 39k miles… 10k miles later, I’ve chosen to prioritize other areas before eventually getting around to the RBs. You’ll see discussion on throttle actuators as well, I believe those are less concerning. There are small concerns like any platform but I honestly am amazed how darn reliable this thing continues to be (in addition to enjoyable!)