Full Limp mode - Harrop SC M3

Full limp mode sitting waiting for my better half a few hours ago in the parking lot and BARELY got it home.

Original TA’s
Harrop SC
Full do88 kit

Someone please remind me again…is the MAP sensor indicative of a bad ICV or the other way around? Or is it going to be both?

DrFerry BPMSport drwankel Redd

-Duke

In the limited research I’ve done on the ICV system it seems the MAP sensor fails more often and replacing it clears both codes but I didn’t see this specific question in the context of a Harrop car.

CamasM3e93 might have had some experience with it.

I'm leaning with spammy, and I bet its the map sensor. It's also possible that some kind of rodent got in there and chewed up the wires for the sensor, so double check for that as well.

Others do seem to have a bad map sensor cause both of those codes, and I don't see why a harrop s/c would make any difference here.

That being said, on a stock car you are going to have to yank the plenum off to get at the map sensor.

Since that means pulling the blower off on a harrop car, you might as well get some of the other preventative work done on there while its off, especially since you are on original throttle actuators. Get the TAs, IAC, fuel breather and starter. The peace of mind is worth it, and now you have a good reminder how unplanned limp mode can completely ruin your day.

spammysammich wrote

In the limited research I’ve done on the ICV system it seems the MAP sensor fails more often and replacing it clears both codes but I didn’t see this specific question in the context of a Harrop car.

CamasM3e93 might have had some experience with it.

drwankel wrote

I'm leaning with spammy, and I bet its the map sensor. It's also possible that some kind of rodent got in there and chewed up the wires for the sensor, so double check for that as well.

Others do seem to have a bad map sensor cause both of those codes, and I don't see why a harrop s/c would make any difference here.

That being said, on a stock car you are going to have to yank the plenum off to get at the map sensor.

Since that means pulling the blower off on a harrop car, you might as well get some of the other preventative work done on there while its off, especially since you are on original throttle actuators. Get the TAs, IAC, fuel breather and starter. The peace of mind is worth it, and now you have a good reminder how unplanned limp mode can completely ruin your day.

Thanks Spammy, thanks Wankel!

Yeah, I have a feeling it’s the map sensor as well and not ICV (ICA)….just wasn’t looking to go spend $2K today on parts hah.

No rodent problem, never had mice and there are tons of better places to hide in the shop then the cars, but never had an issue thus far.

Only reason I’m bringing up the Harrop….she gets HOT….increased heat with electronics and piping in there could cause premature failure at multiple points which is why I ask about both.

65K miles on the car btw.

-Duke

I would venture to say it’s the ICV.

When replacing, I usually recommend replacing the idle strips as well (one of which comes with the MAP sensor).

BPMSport wrote

I would venture to say it’s the ICV.

When replacing, I usually recommend replacing the idle strips as well (one of which comes with the MAP sensor).

Yeah, I saw they area a one piece PLUS the MAP sensor.

Roger that, I’ll order up that and most likely pull the trigger on TA’s as well… 😬🫠

-Duke

DukeofAlexandria wrote

Yeah, I saw they area a one piece PLUS the MAP sensor.

Roger that, I’ll order up that and most likely pull the trigger on TA’s as well… 😬🫠

-Duke

My money's on the T.A.(s) but as others have said the MAP sensor is worth doing when you're under there and especially since removing the Harrop blower is quite the investment in time...

DrFerry wrote

My money's on the T.A.(s) but as others have said the MAP sensor is worth doing when you're under there and especially since removing the Harrop blower is quite the investment in time...

I’d go to TA’s but not getting any normal misfire or plausibility codes for them at this time.

They seem to be functioning normally, but regardless, I’m ordering all the parts later today. Thanks Doc!

-Duke

DukeofAlexandria wrote

I’d go to TA’s but not getting any normal misfire or plausibility codes for them at this time. They seem to be functioning normally, but regardless, I’m ordering all the parts later today. Thanks Doc!
-Duke

It coded 2B0D: Vacuum control pressure sensor or possibly a throttle actuator(s). See the links below.
https://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/threa...2/post-2766002

And

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1338052

DrFerry wrote

It coded 2B0D: Vacuum control pressure sensor or possibly a throttle actuator(s). See the links below.
https://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/threa...2/post-2766002

And

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1338052

Thanks Doc, as always!

I’m just going to order it all and replace all. The Harrop isn’t doing the electronics and piping back there any favors with the excess heat buildup. And while I might only have 65K miles, age plays a factor into the breakdown of the piping and plastic components so all good!

-Duke