Track forum general chit chat.

Bimmer Barney wrote

Sorry to keep resurrecting this topic but want to poll the audience. Here’s a vid of the noise. I haven’t had a chance to work on the car; been driving around hoping (and pretty confident) a wheel doesn’t fall off.

I have new endlinks I’m going to install front and rear and then I’m going to reset the 3DM Ohlins kit to baseline setting in case something’s outta whack there. And when I do that I’ll check the camber plate (vorshlag) bearings. If those steps don’t resolve it I’ll swap the tie rods and call it preventative maintenance at 110k miles.

Anyone have ideas? I’ve checked every nut and bolt and retorqued to factory spec. It’s not a loose install issue.

is your endlink length correct? i think if its too long it will make contact with something.

or the ohlins are not clocked correctly.

I’ll check that!

Does anyone in this thread have recommendations for two-piece rear rotors that work with the OEM caliper? I've searched the thread and mostly found options related to F8x rear retrofit, but I'm looking to keep my stock rear calipers for now (if possible).

I've heard good things about Girodisc, but it doesn't appear they make rears to match. Turner appears to have fronts and rears, but I haven't heard much about them.

Currently running stock calipers and rotors F/R, stainless lines, Endless ME20 pads, and SRF fluid for reference. I attend 8-10 track days per year and will be upgrading to a front BBK at some point later this year, but that just isn't in the cards at this exact moment.

jmeenach wrote

Does anyone in this thread have recommendations for two-piece rear rotors that work with the OEM caliper? I've searched the thread and mostly found options related to F8x rear retrofit, but I'm looking to keep my stock rear calipers for now (if possible).

I've heard good things about Girodisc, but it doesn't appear they make rears to match. Turner appears to have fronts and rears, but I haven't heard much about them.

Currently running stock calipers and rotors F/R, stainless lines, Endless ME20 pads, and SRF fluid for reference. I attend 8-10 track days per year and will be upgrading to a front BBK at some point later this year, but that just isn't in the cards at this exact moment.

Paragon has 2pc Front/Rear rotors that work with OEM calipers:

https://europeanautosource.com/collections/paragon-performance?page=1&rb_snize_facet14=BMW%20E90%2FE92%2FE93%20M3

tom @ eas wrote

Paragon has 2pc Front/Rear rotors that work with OEM calipers:

https://europeanautosource.com/collections/paragon-performance?page=1&rb_snize_facet14=BMW%20E90%2FE92%2FE93%20M3

Thanks for the quick reply.

Does anyone else have experience with these? Pricing looks similar to the Turner rotors. That said, I'm well aware of the "fake" AP BBK's they make, so that makes me a little hesitant.

jmeenach wrote

Thanks for the quick reply.

Does anyone else have experience with these? Pricing looks similar to the Turner rotors. That said, I'm well aware of the "fake" AP BBK's they make, so that makes me a little hesitant.

derbo used paragon rotors to replace the ones from his AP kit.

so it should be fine.

there are just rotors and not calipers so i probably wouldn't worry much.

ECS rotors used to be made by StopTech. ECS owns Turner. Who knows where these rotors come from.

As for Paragon, I ordered their rotor ring replacement hardware and it's pretty good quality. I wouldn't hesitate to order their rotor rings if Girodisc wasn't available.

Have any of you deleted the EVAP system? Looking to get some more info on this but was having trouble finding many people who have successfully done this.

Seems like deleting it and all associated components will shed a substantial amount of weight.

This will affect cold starts I presume (less loud firing process)? Anything else to be expected doing this?

Ximian wrote

ECS rotors used to be made by StopTech. ECS owns Turner. Who knows where these rotors come from.

As for Paragon, I ordered their rotor ring replacement hardware and it's pretty good quality. I wouldn't hesitate to order their rotor rings if Girodisc wasn't available.

+1 for paragon rotors. i've got their bbk up front, but am using their two piece oe replacement for rear + stock calipers.

so far so good.

Bimmer Barney wrote

Sorry to keep resurrecting this topic but want to poll the audience. Here’s a vid of the noise. I haven’t had a chance to work on the car; been driving around hoping (and pretty confident) a wheel doesn’t fall off.

I have new endlinks I’m going to install front and rear and then I’m going to reset the 3DM Ohlins kit to baseline setting in case something’s outta whack there. And when I do that I’ll check the camber plate (vorshlag) bearings. If those steps don’t resolve it I’ll swap the tie rods and call it preventative maintenance at 110k miles.

Anyone have ideas? I’ve checked every nut and bolt and retorqued to factory spec. It’s not a loose install issue.

I had an identical clunk. It turned out that the lower rear left shock mount on my club sports somehow got canted in the camber arm when I torqued it down so whenever the suspension articulated the metal sleeve the bolt went through would make contact with the bolt. Loosening the bolt, jacking the camber arm to approximately ride height and rotating the shock until the bolt was centered and the lower mount was dead square with the camber arm slot fixed it for me. You might be able to hear the clunk above the fuel slosh.

so back on the m-world train... i placed an order on his site on 3/1, followed up by email on 3/15, and after not hearing back filed a paypal claim on 3/19. yesterday Bruce emails me out of the blue, saying that he has no record of an order or a paypal transaction, and that i should take it up with paypal.

setting aside the fact that I clicked the paypal link on his site, and the recipient is "M-World", and that I sent him the transaction info from PayPal itself the whole conversation was very much "shrug, not my problem"

he then went on to say that he doesn't sell anything for that price, and then disappeared again. from a little bit of digging on his site, it looks like he's got an old shopping page that I ordered from (linked from here which is how I got there) and a new shopify site with updated prices. entirely possible that he didn't decommission the old site fully when he upgraded and so something like this happened, but given the 3 weeks of dead air, and the general attitude of the interaction, I'd recommend steering clear. Pegasus racing had the $50 non pnp cable in my hands 2 days after payment.

kolosy wrote

yesterday Bruce emails me out of the blue, saying that he has no record of an order or a paypal transaction, and that i should take it up with paypal.

but he was made aware when the charge back was set in place

omgzirra_exe wrote

but he was made aware when the charge back was set in place

ha that's a good point. lines up with the timing of when he popped up.

Been bust trying to get the car ready. My first race is in a few weeks.

Installed the MCS 2 ways last week. Got the canisters mounted yesterday.

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr


Dropped the subframe to install a new sway bar

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr


Changed up the rear diffuser. I lowered it a couple inches and now the exhaust comes out above it instead of through it. Also changed my setup for mounting the back of it.

Ignore the damaged rear bumper and terrible wrap. I have a spare but dont have the time to swap it and rewrap it right now

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

Untitled by Joey Hutchinson, on Flickr

holy chitballs

jmeenach wrote

Does anyone in this thread have recommendations for two-piece rear rotors that work with the OEM caliper? I've searched the thread and mostly found options related to F8x rear retrofit, but I'm looking to keep my stock rear calipers for now (if possible).

I've heard good things about Girodisc, but it doesn't appear they make rears to match. Turner appears to have fronts and rears, but I haven't heard much about them.

Currently running stock calipers and rotors F/R, stainless lines, Endless ME20 pads, and SRF fluid for reference. I attend 8-10 track days per year and will be upgrading to a front BBK at some point later this year, but that just isn't in the cards at this exact moment.

I am planning on trying the 034 Motorsports version you can get from FCP Euro. Lifetime replacement too and their J-Hook design will match my front AP kit. Oh I should add I am going to the M4 370mm rears with the Seems Legit Garage kit, and M4 calipers.

b4hand wrote

I am planning on trying the 034 Motorsports version you can get from FCP Euro. Lifetime replacement too and their J-Hook design will match my front AP kit. Oh I should add I am going to the M4 370mm rears with the Seems Legit Garage kit, and M4 calipers.

Do you have a link to them? I can only find 380mm fronts when I search. Looking to go with OEM sizing for the time being.

.

StripclubDJ wrote

.

Mother of God.

reidetailing wrote

Have any of you deleted the EVAP system? Looking to get some more info on this but was having trouble finding many people who have successfully done this.

Seems like deleting it and all associated components will shed a substantial amount of weight.

This will affect cold starts I presume (less loud firing process)? Anything else to be expected doing this?

Following up...any of you guys do this?
StripclubDJ omgzirra_exe okusa turbo_joe Cmassey3

See this thread.
Remove fuel evap/charcoal system??
I’m in the middle of this now. Removed charcoal cannister, secondary air pump, associated hoses and EGR valves and plugged the holes on the back of the engine with the plates from NRW Design. Just received hoses yesterday and a discriminator valve to build a new tank vent routing. I have an Epic tune to code out the CEL.

One unresolved question for me is what to do with the hose that runs from the charcoal cannister to the idle control valve on top of the engine (beneath the wiring harness). Do I plug it? That’s what I’ve done and car seems to run fine, but I’m only able to test drive it up and down my driveway.

reidetailing wrote

Following up...any of you guys do this?
StripclubDJ omgzirra_exe okusa turbo_joe Cmassey3

I removed the entire evap system from the rear of my car. I didnt mess with anything under the hood though.