Valve cover gaskets replacement cost

How much should I expect to pay to have my valve cover gaskets and spark plug tubes replaced at an independent shop?

Thats an easy task, buy the gaskets do it on a Sunday with basic tools and a few brewskies & done deal. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1140757

Make sure to compare parts being changed as it varies what some shops will quote you. Some will just slap new gaskets and not include the spark plug tubes, or even the bolts.

You'd want to replace the bolts because the rubber seals can't be bought separately. They are not cheap.

Since you are in there, change the upper timing cover gaskets, they are cheap and can be the cause of leaks.

Also consider getting the covers powered coated if you are not buying new ones as the old ones finish flake off in the grooves where the gaskets go and causes the leaks, often times just putting a new gasket in will not fix the leaks in that case. They would need to be cleaned out or sanded smooth.

Here you go https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-valve-cover-gasket-kit-11127838271kt?ads_cmpid=352576039&ads_adid=22972407319&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85218275839&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-327620319311&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5ZDinIWx8QIVQx-tBh3QxgyjEAQYASABEgLaLPD_BwE

Just a heads up. Some of the pre-LCI valve covers warp - which causes replacement gaskets to leak too. I have a 2009 and had to change both valve covers.

Why do pre LCI valve covers warp and LCI valve covers not warp? How was the design changed or how was the composition of the magnesium changed?

Pre LCI covers and LCI covers are exactly the same.

Pre-LCI covers may have higher chance of needing the entire VC changed as they are usually higher mileage.

They aren't the same. Pre-LCI has a yellow coating that tends to deteriorate while LCI doesn't.

I've put both parts side by side - there is a difference. Many people reporting seeping after valve cover gasket change due to warping of the covers. Not saying all of them will have that problem, but it should be checked.

I highly recommend changing the covers out too. They do in fact warp over time and depending upon how you've driven it. I went through the hassle of doing the job and still had sweat. Swapped the covers and it's been fine. Absolutely have to use new bolts too. If your patient, it's a fairly simple job. ECS Tuning had the best deal on covers at the time. I'd do plugs while you're at it too since it's incredibly simple once the covers are off. Sold the old covers on eBay too so all in all it's not too bad.

GeorgeA wrote

They aren't the same. Pre-LCI has a yellow coating that tends to deteriorate while LCI doesn't.

I've put both parts side by side - there is a difference. Many people reporting seeping after valve cover gasket change due to warping of the covers. Not saying all of them will have that problem, but it should be checked.

This is good to know, thank you for the clarification

Johal E32 wrote

GeorgeA wrote

They aren't the same. Pre-LCI has a yellow coating that tends to deteriorate while LCI doesn't.

I've put both parts side by side - there is a difference. Many people reporting seeping after valve cover gasket change due to warping of the covers. Not saying all of them will have that problem, but it should be checked.

This is good to know, thank you for the clarification

Don't think that's correct regarding pre/post LCI. Helpful quote from Coulter Dean on another valve cover thread.

deansbimmer wrote

gordon@ wrote

deansbimmer so do you recommend powder coating the valve covers also? even on the inside? Will the powder coat hold up and not come out and contaminate with the engine oil?

I don't suggest attempting to coat the inside. It's too difficult to prepare the magnesium for good adhesion, and I don't see coating the inside as being successful long term even if you were able to get the surface perfect. The original coating is a two part high temp ceramic coating so that would be my first choice (I use Cerakote), although PC works well when well prepped. The factory didn't fully coat the inside. There is overspray inside, which is what flakes off first.

There is no difference in covers. They're made by Stihl Foundry and have always been cast and coated. There is no additional internal coatings or plating, never has been. Appearances will vary depending on the amount of oxidation and overspray remaining from the original coating.

Warpage is not the driving factor in cause of leaks or the inability to reuse the covers. The degree of pitting from oxidation is what prevents a quality seal. Pitting must be ground out, and the removal of too much material will affect the shape and possibly render the cover unusable.

No refinished cover will ever last as long as a brand new set of genuine BMW covers- no matter how well prepared or coated.

Interesting..

Every pre-facelift valve cover I've seen has a mustard colored coating that is usually peeling. LCI models on the other hand don't have this coating.

Same was true when I took off my 09 covers and compared them to new ones last year.

GeorgeA wrote

Interesting..

Every pre-facelift valve cover I've seen has a mustard colored coating that is usually peeling. LCI models on the other hand don't have this coating.

Same was true when I took off my 09 covers and compared them to new ones last year.

I found 2 part outs, one is an 09 that had 50500 miles and the other is an 11 with 67000 miles. Which should I buy, pre LCI with lower mileage or lci with higher?

andrewsmith335i wrote

I found 2 part outs, one is an 09 that had 50500 miles and the other is an 11 with 67000 miles. Which should I buy, pre LCI with lower mileage or lci with higher?

I'd go with the LCI