SOLVED: Limp mode - Throttle body actuators - Gear broke

With the cold weather, I think my battery is starting to give lower charge. Every so often I'll get, "Increased battery discharge". Today my windows frosted over overnight, so I had to sit in my car and let the defroster run for a while until the windows defrosted. After ~0.7 mi of driving, I go into limp mode and pull up some codes:

00CDB7 - Embassy 0x326 (EDC reception status)
002739 - Air mass meter secondary air electrical diagnostic
002B15 - Throttle controller monitoring Bank 1
002B57 - Engine emergency program activated
002B21 - Throttle pre-drive check bank 1

005E19 - CAN DME / DDE, engine torque not adjustable

00A559 - KL30g f shutdown

I cleared the codes and ran the diagnostics again and got the following:

00CDB7 - Embassy 0x326 (EDC reception status)
005E19 - CAN DME / DDE, engine torque not adjustable
00A8C6 -Daytime running right defective
00A8C5 -Daytime running light defective

but still in limp mode and can't get out of limp mode. Shop won't be able to see it until Thursday so thinking if I should try some things in the meantime.

Car is 106,000 mi. I just replaced both throttle body actuators at 101,000 miles. Can it really be dead again that fast?

I have coilovers and coded out EDC, so I don't consider those codes to be an issue.



What would your guys' approach be? I don't like the sound of ~$120/hr for labor

Battery was replaced ~1.5 years ago at 98,000 mi.

The car is parked outside and temps today were ~33F.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1038570 came up with the 02739. I'll have to give this hose a look over to see if it's damaged.

Also just realized that I only replaced bank 2 throttle actuator. It's likely the other TA is bad now.

Reading the codes now, makes a lot more sense since it's failing the initial TA open/close check when the car first turns on and immediately goes into limp mode.

The 002739 is a weird one, hopefully that's just a byproduct of the TA going bad and will clear itself once the TA is replaced. Will chime back in for documentation's sake.

Atruelunatic you have to replace both throttle actuator, the same thing happened to me, under warranty BMW replace bank 2 then several weeks latter the same problem so I took it back to BMW, they replace bank 1. PS BMW new they should have replace both

Zertag01 wrote

Atruelunatic you have to replace both throttle actuator, the same thing happened to me, under warranty BMW replace bank 2 then several weeks latter the same problem so I took it back to BMW, they replace bank 1. PS BMW new they should have replace both

My first TA went bad at ~101,000 miles. I tried replacing the gears and a mosfet that people have attributed to failure, but didn't work. Bought a new TA for bank 2 and just replaced the TA gears for Bank 1. Mind you, this is all DIY.

Bank 1 failed at ~106,000 miles. Got the TA back and opened it up, the replacement gear I put in broke at the shaft to gear interface. The temps have been low 30's in the morning. I wonder if it's due to temperature or if the throttle valves somehow got bound on something and it tried to open/close them and then broke.



EDIT: Spoke with the manufacturer and they mentioned that I should have pinned the gear. They also have newer generation gears that have improvements such as extra ribs as well as additional injection points.

atruelunatic...I also purchase the gear on line and replace them in my M3 Bank 1 and Bank 2 Throttle body actuators, It didn't work for me because the problem was the mossfet on the board that's bad. Then I contacted BMW warranty and they replace them.[/url]