Clearing trouble code P1628

So last week going to work my whip went into limp mode with all the nicely displayed warning lights.. Limp it home and scanned and got P1628. So i removed both actuators and verified that bank one was faulty via a slow return action verses bank two.
Did a little research and ordered both throttle actuators. Got them this morning and installed them. Fired up the beast with the same results and cant seem to clear the code. Do i need the dealer to calibrate the actuators or is there a scanner that can? Or is there something else that might be wrong. Just a little stump.. Hate to go the dealer for them do something that i can do.

This subject matter is out there, but never see what people had to do after they installed new....
By the way it's a 2009 M3

Stuck driving my F250 four door four wheel drive long bed... Miss my whip...

What are you using to clear the codes? I would get the Carly for its convenience. However, I believe that code should clear after 2 or 3 cycles if the actuators are working right.

///mawana wrote

What are you using to clear the codes? I would get the Carly for its convenience. However, I believe that code should clear after 2 or 3 cycles if the actuators are working right.

It's an Innova 1403 scan tool. Got it off the Macto guy at work.. But i think its pretty general..
I cycled the engine a few times... Hasn't cleared.. Was think about a drive around the block... Been reading about Bavarian Technic tool... Not reallt familiar with it... Just about to look it up

https://ibb.co/j5Rhyo
This subject matter is out there, but never see what people had to do after they installed new....
By the way it's a 2009 M3

Stuck driving my F250 four door four wheel drive long bed... Miss my whip...[/QUOTE]

Maybe my issue can help out

I got a bank 2 failure. Opened it up, and found out the gears were tight and weren't smooth. Turns out the motor was a little bit out of alignment, which was causing drag, that caused the mosfet to burn out.

So a good wack with the hammer flat down on the motor gear straightened it out. Smooth as butter.

Put everything back together, and got rid of the P161F error, but then got the P1628, switched the board with the replaced mosfet on the other actuator, reinstalled, no codes/limp.

Dunno why, dunno how.. but it worked.

In your case, maybe try to switch up the actuator from bank 1 and bank 2, if not try switching the boards up (without voiding your warranty) I suppose.

I just replaced the two actuators on mine and I didn't have to Calibrate anything. On the other hand I didn't have codes either, I replaced just for the heck of it out of precaution since I discovered that bank two had a "dead" spot.

I did buy new and on the box it state it needs "programming" not sure if they redete to a reset of the throttle adaption or not.

Can you drive? If yes I would take it for a spin and see if the codes clear them self.

They do work out of the box.

I think it needs to be initialized: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730241

I think Carly app for iPhone or Android and a wifi OBDII scanner lets you do it.

PACarGuy wrote

I think it needs to be initialized: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730241

I think Carly app for iPhone or Android and a wifi OBDII scanner lets you do it.

I'm at my wits end... Think i cam across that thread. Have an appointment tomorrow at an indy shop close by... I'll update what they find

ycb wrote

Maybe my issue can help out

I got a bank 2 failure. Opened it up, and found out the gears were tight and weren't smooth. Turns out the motor was a little bit out of alignment, which was causing drag, that caused the mosfet to burn out.

So a good wack with the hammer flat down on the motor gear straightened it out. Smooth as butter.

Put everything back together, and got rid of the P161F error, but then got the P1628, switched the board with the replaced mosfet on the other actuator, reinstalled, no codes/limp.

Dunno why, dunno how.. but it worked.

In your case, maybe try to switch up the actuator from bank 1 and bank 2, if not try switching the boards up (without voiding your warranty) I suppose.

Ending up getting the same code. Knowing the boards were working, it had to be the motor. Putting power to the motor would have it run intermittently, vs the motor in the other actuator.

Pulled the motor from the actuator, and found that one of the 2 brushes were sticking inside the motor. Fixed the brush issue and the motor spun everytime 12v was applied. Once this issue was fixed, no more code, no more limp.

Shouldn't have to calibrate anything, if the actuators work, it should work. One of your new ones should be faulty or the connection to it is not 100%.

Highreach2002 wrote

I'll update what they find

So far as an up-date.. Picked up the car today.. Diagnoses was that the throttle linkage was off on bank one. A little embarrassed if that's true.. I swear i had them all on. I was told that the linkage making that "clicking" sound when install doesn't mean there on correctly. .. But it's running full steam and see if it's clear and free...