Whos running Mobil 1 0w-40?

[Gumulri]

Originally Posted by dreamspeed

This whole "rod bearing hysteria" sure is helping the motor oil manufacturers and blackstone in business

I'm not advocating beating the crap out of your car and "reasonable" care should be taken to ensure many miles of enjoyment out of cars but.....some of you guys are taking this way too far....

+1

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Hujan

Interesting find. I am thinking about blending Mobil 1 0w40 and 15w50. Maybe two parts 0w40 to one part 15w50. Not sure if it works like this, but for a nine-quart fill wouldn't that result in something like ~5w45?

Yes, but you should really be assessing the new HTHSV instead of just the SAE weight.

[kawasaki00]

5qt 0-40 and 4qt 15-50 is what most with S/C have been using. Couple guys have been using this for a few years now without issue

[dparm]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

5qt 0-40 and 4qt 15-50 is what most with S/C have been using. Couple guys have been using this for a few years now without issue

What sort of oil pressure is it giving them?

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by Leonardo629

Brother, why do I feel like you spooked yourself a great deal with this 0W40/10W60 change.

First, I can't comment on the dB reading, since I don't how controlled was the reading environment, but I know most human simply can't tell the difference of 2dB, so even if the reading was dead on, you definitely didn't hear it in the first place, unless of course, you work for Dolby or something and it's your trade.

I don't know how oil can change exhaust note since engine oil is not suppose to change anything in the combustion chamber.

I think you simply overfilled your coolant, and pffft..it's gonna expand and flow out.

Every 3 dB is a doubling of sound intensity I think you could notice 2 dB.

[WickedE93]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

5qt 0-40 and 4qt 15-50 is what most with S/C have been using. Couple guys have been using this for a few years now without issue

How many miles are you guys running this mix for before oil changes? 3k, 5k?

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by dparm

Yes, but you should really be assessing the new HTHSV instead of just the SAE weight.

Unfortunately, that would exceed my knowledge of oils. I have no idea how to assess that value.

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

5qt 0-40 and 4qt 15-50 is what most with S/C have been using. Couple guys have been using this for a few years now without issue

Interesting. Why just S/C guys?

I am starting to see reports on the Internet of M1 0w40 falling below the range for ideal viscosity even before 5k miles. Making me nervous to track the car on M1 0w40.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Hujan

Unfortunately, that would exceed my knowledge of oils. I have no idea how to assess that value.

It's on the datasheets. Just look for HTHS and use some basic algebra to determine your new value after mixing.

Example:

2 quarts of oil with HTHS of 4.0
+
2 quarts of oil with HTHS of 3.0
-----------------------------------
4 total quarts, new HTHS 3.5

[G80indy]

Originally Posted by Obioban

Every 3 dB is a doubling of sound intensity I think you could notice 2 dB.

fact check
Every +10 dB is a doubling of intensity to the ear (an order of magnitude, x10 energy)
So 100 dB is twice as loud to the ear as 90 dB

+3 dB requires a double amount of energy and registers to the ears as a bit louder (1dB is regarded the minimal increment of noticeable volume difference perceived by the ear)

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by dparm

It's on the datasheets. Just look for HTHS and use some basic algebra to determine your new value after mixing.

Example:

2 quarts of oil with HTHS of 4.0
+
2 quarts of oil with HTHS of 3.0
-----------------------------------
4 total quarts, new HTHS 3.5

Ah, thanks! Is there an HTHS target I should be shooting for?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Hujan

Ah, thanks! Is there an HTHS target I should be shooting for?

TWS stabilizes to around 4.5, so some have argued you want something right around there.

Ultimately you want as thin as possible but as thick as necessary to maintain oil pressure.

[haparide]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

5qt 0-40 and 4qt 15-50 is what most with S/C have been using. Couple guys have been using this for a few years now without issue

+1 changed oil twice with this formula.. No problems and no oil consumption either!

[Dreamer99]

If you lived in the Pacific Northwest, parked your car outside and used it a couple times a week would you be concerned using the factory spec'd oil? The winter temps are generally above freezing with the occasional day or two below. What are the differences between M1 0W40 and TWS 10W60 at 32'F anyway?

[pbonsalb]

I live in NH where it is freezing all winter, park outside, and drive several times pef week. For the first 6 years, my car ran 10W60. Changed the rod bearings as preventative maintenance in 2014 and have been running 0W40 since. No track use.

[Dreamer99]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I live in NH where it is freezing all winter, park outside, and drive several times pef week. For the first 6 years, my car ran 10W60. Changed the rod bearings as preventative maintenance in 2014 and have been running 0W40 since. No track use.

How did your bearings look after six years?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Dreamer99

If you lived in the Pacific Northwest, parked your car outside and used it a couple times a week would you be concerned using the factory spec'd oil? The winter temps are generally above freezing with the occasional day or two below. What are the differences between M1 0W40 and TWS 10W60 at 32'F anyway?

No, because BMW is testing for that. They know these cars are being used all around the world.

Input the figures for TWS & M1 here to see the viscosity differences at whatever temperature you like:
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calcul...erational.html

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by dparm

What sort of oil pressure is it giving them?

38 at idle and almost 90 at 8500

Originally Posted by WickedE93

How many miles are you guys running this mix for before oil changes? 3k, 5k?

4k on the big kits, it starts to break down between that 4 and 5k mile interval. This is with a vt3 though.

Originally Posted by Hujan

Unfortunately, that would exceed my knowledge of oils. I have no idea how to assess that value.



Interesting. Why just S/C guys?

I am starting to see reports on the Internet of M1 0w40 falling below the range for ideal viscosity even before 5k miles. Making me nervous to track the car on M1 0w40.

Some of the s/c guys worry about the oil being too thin. To be safe we started running the mix and it has worked out well.
Who says what the ideal viscosity is though. We dont know what we can get away with unfortunately.

Originally Posted by haparide

+1 changed oil twice with this formula.. No problems and no oil consumption either!

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by Dreamer99

How did your bearings look after six years?

My pictures did not turn out very well unfortunately and the bearings are all nicked up now from being in a bag. The main areas in the center had no copper showing, which is good. The wear through the layers was inconsistent from bearing to bearing, which is not good, but none looked anywhere close to imminent failure to me. What bothered me most was copper showing around the parting lines (end of the bearing) and along the sides of the bearings. This wear to the copper was also inconsistent in that not all bearings had it.

I don't attribute any of that wear to 10W60 oil. I changed to 0W40 mainly because I don't think 10W60 is needed for my use, provided I change the oil more frequently than once a year of 15k and provided I do not track the car. I think Mobil 1 0W40 is a great oil used in some very fancy motors.

[tadmcmichael]

I will start out by saying that I run Mobil 1 0W40 in all of my past automobiles, lawnmower, and even my boat (which has twin Yamaha R1 motorcycle engines). Even though I had just had my oil changed at the dealer a couple months ago, I switched to the 0W40 Mobil 1 because the oil analysis on this thread supports that it helps the rod bearing issue. Might we find out later that it leads to slightly more wear in other areas (especially at the track)? Potentially, but I want to address the issue that I KNOW is the most significant with the engine. It amazes me that people will blindly follow the recommendations of the BMW engineers (and marketing team) when there is a known issue created by these very same individuals. That issue MIGHT be mitigated by an oil that will flow into the tight tolerances of the rod bearings better. I don't notice a significant difference in mileage, but I do note that the engine revs more easily and doesn't "buck" when the engine is cold like it used to. Nice that it warms up a bit faster also. Thought I would try it in winter, but think I am going to keep it in all of the time. I do think the stock oil would be better at track temps, but I think the 0W40 will do fine for occasional HPDE.

[Flying Ace]

I'm not much in-tuned with the F8X M3/4 but are you aware BMW just released a 0W-40 OEM oil for that car? It's LL01 rated (Mobil 1 0W-40 is as well)

p/n: 83212365945

[Yvette]

I still have few sets of castrol 10w60 but once i am done i might give a mobil 0w40 try.
My glk 350 loves mobil 0w40. Engine is noticeably quieter and calmed.

[SSJVegita]

how about ams oil 5w-50? its a bit thinner cold, and still a 50 weight which is closer to 60