Battery tender

[G80indy]

Originally Posted by MSteve5036

Anyone ever remove the battery and put a tender on it? I may have to store my car in a garage without electricity and I am thinking it should be fine as long as everything is fully charged when I remove it and install it

From what I recall the computer modules do not like to be without power. It may cause unbeknownst issues

[admranger]

Originally Posted by 330indy

From what I recall the computer modules do not like to be without power. It may cause unbeknownst issues

Que? Think about this for a minute. When you put a new battery in, the modules are without power. It's ok. What the modules don't like is voltage variation; something that can happen with a failing battery.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal when you store the car.

Make sure the battery is fully charged up prior to use.

[Flying Ace]

Originally Posted by MSteve5036

Anyone ever remove the battery and put a tender on it? I may have to store my car in a garage without electricity and I am thinking it should be fine as long as everything is fully charged when I remove it and install it

yes you can do it and it'll work, but have ever tried removing the M3 battery? it's not exactly something you do in between commercial breaks of a football game

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

yes you can do it and it'll work, but have ever tried removing the M3 battery? it's not exactly something you do in between commercial breaks of a football game

Practice.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

yes you can do it and it'll work, but have ever tried removing the M3 battery? it's not exactly something you do in between commercial breaks of a football game

Easy, peasy. Try an E53 X5 4.4i battery. Awkward...

[MSteve5036]

Originally Posted by Flying Ace

yes you can do it and it'll work, but have ever tried removing the M3 battery? it's not exactly something you do in between commercial breaks of a football game

Lol. No I haven't tried yet. I just don't have many other options other than removing it or disconnecting and letting it sit there

[tagta3]

Originally Posted by 330indy

With AGM batteries they should not see 14.8v and the CTEK senses this automatically. However ... They do require more robust float charge, 14.7v (in spite of a closely managed peak voltage because they are a bit of a deeper cycle type battery) than the 14.4 float charge of a lead acid wet cell battery to keep them fully topped off. Hence the AGM /snowflake mode is 14.7. Another feature I love about the 7002 is the pulse charge in deep sleep (after a ten day period in uninterrupted float charge mode) -- exercises the battery a bit for long term hibernation, which works well for the deep Midwestern snooze. Keeps my battery fresh.
Also a reason I will not use the BMW aka/Deltran maintainer on the E92. I cannot confirm it auto-adjusts to an AGM.

Not to add confusion to the mix, I agree to put it in AGM/snowflake mode. I also read in the CTEK manual to check the manufacturers recommended charging voltage for bulk and absorption. Our batteries are made by EXIDE I think, and according to EXIDE instructions it says to charge AGM between 14.1V- 14.4V, which would mean normal mode. Look at last row first page in link below. This is for the EXIDE non OEM brand. Not sure if it applies to our batteries or not but just wanted to make the group aware. Most likely I will still use the AGM 14.7V mode because it is an AGM battery. What are your thoughts?

http://www.exide.com/Media/files/Dow...0%205_9_13.pdf

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by tagta3

Not to add confusion to the mix, I agree to put it in AGM/snowflake mode. I also read in the CTEK manual to check the manufacturers recommended charging voltage for bulk and absorption. Our batteries are made by EXIDE I think, and according to EXIDE instructions it says to charge AGM between 14.1V- 14.4V, which would mean normal mode. Look at last row first page in link below. This is for the EXIDE non OEM brand. Not sure if it applies to our batteries or not but just wanted to make the group aware. Most likely I will still use the AGM 14.7V mode because it is an AGM battery. What are your thoughts?

http://www.exide.com/Media/files/Dow...0%205_9_13.pdf

Ohhh C'mon !
I charge my battery with my CTEK every single weekend because it's not my DD .
This for over years now with 0 problems and it prolongs the life span of our battery .

[tagta3]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

Ohhh C'mon !
I charge my battery with my CTEK every single weekend because it's not my DD .
This for over years now with 0 problems and it prolongs the life span of our battery .

Hey I know I am being a little picky, but like I said just wanted to make the group aware and get some feedback. I agree using a tender prolongs the battery.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by tagta3

Hey I know I am being a little picky, but like I said just wanted to make the group aware and get some feedback. I agree using a tender prolongs the battery.

Roger that .

[dparm]

FYI if you get the original Battery Tender, there is an AGM/gel model. I think it was like $40 on Amazon when I bought it a few months ago.

[radiofrequency]

I have used this Trickle Charger for years and it works flawlessly: http://www.batterytender.com/Automot...derR-Plus.html

I charge using the charging points under the hood and leave the accessory connectors attached while driving per Battery Tender instructions. Please note that my car is stored for approximately six months per year as I live in a ski resort and use a Lexus LX570 during the winter months. My M3 starts first time every time when I start the vehicle in the spring.

[tagta3]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

Roger that .

So I plugged my CTEK 7002 charger a couple of nights ago. It charged the battery and is in maintenance mode but the relay clicks every 30 seconds or so. I'm not sure if it is supposed to do that or not. I googled it and some people on one of the Ferrari forums said that the battery gets pulsed when it doesn't hold its float voltage long enough and the voltage decays the charger enters pulse mode to maintain float voltage or the cars electronics have too much parasitic current draw that it causes the charger to keep pulsing and in the end kills your battery. Does anyone here with a CTEK charger (besides 3300 model) have this clicking going on? The battery is in good shape. I don't want to end up with a battery leaking in the trunk because of this charger. Any ideas?

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by tagta3

So I plugged my CTEK 7002 charger a couple of nights ago. It charged the battery and is in maintenance mode but the relay clicks every 30 seconds or so. I'm not sure if it is supposed to do that or not. I googled it and some people on one of the Ferrari forums said that the battery gets pulsed when it doesn't hold its float voltage long enough and the voltage decays the charger enters pulse mode to maintain float voltage or the cars electronics have too much parasitic current draw that it causes the charger to keep pulsing and in the end kills your battery. Does anyone here with a CTEK charger (besides 3300 model) have this clicking going on? The battery is in good shape. I don't want to end up with a battery leaking in the trunk because of this charger. Any ideas?

I have the CTEK-MULTI XS 7000 battery charger and charge my battery every single weekend overnight for the last 3 years and I never had this problem with the relay .
As you can see in the pic I charge directly on the battery in my trunk with the central connector .

[tagta3]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

I have the CTEK-MULTI XS 7000 battery charger and charge my battery every single weekend overnight for the last 3 years and I never had this problem with the relay .
As you can see in the pic I charge directly on the battery in my trunk with the central connector .

I'm hoping it's a defective charger and not an indication that the battery can't hold charge long enough without entering pulse mode. It is 4 year old battery but no indication of dying battery I was driving the car just a couple weeks ago before I stored it for the winter. I guess I will exchange the charger.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by tagta3

I'm hoping it's a defective charger and not an indication that the battery can't hold charge long enough without entering pulse mode. It is 4 year old battery but no indication of dying battery I was driving the car just a couple weeks ago before I stored it for the winter. I guess I will exchange the charger.

Personal I would try to charge directly on the battery and look if it's better..
Can't say much about your problem because I never had it..

[tagta3]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

Personal I would try to charge directly on the battery and look if it's better..
Can't say much about your problem because I never had it..

So I put my voltmeter on the jumper connections and the charger is pulsing the battery to 13.6V then letting it decay to 13.2V and back to 13.6V and repeats this cycle every 30s. You think I can leave it on there for now until I get a replacement charger from CTEK. I don't think this will overcharge the battery by cycling since the charge current is low at this stage.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by tagta3

So I put my voltmeter on the jumper connections and the charger is pulsing the battery to 13.6V then letting it decay to 13.2V and back to 13.6V and repeats this cycle every 30s. You think I can leave it on there for now until I get a replacement charger from CTEK. I don't think this will overcharge the battery by cycling since the charge current is low at this stage.

No sure about this but...I was thinking..
I thought that I was reading in the CTEK manual book that "if" something is wrong with the battery it will display a "red led" ?
So my advice is.. read the CTEK manual .
EDIT: About your Volt fluctuations I think it's because CTEK are drip chargers .

[tagta3]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

No sure about this but...I was thinking..
I thought that I was reading in the CTEK manual book that "if" something is wrong with the battery it will display a "red led" ?
So my advice is.. read the CTEK manual .
EDIT: About your Volt fluctuations I think it's because CTEK are drip chargers .

No red LED battery checks out fine according to charger. I did read the manual and says:

Maintenance charging - float (Lamp 4)
During the first 10 days of maintenance charging the battery is maintained with constant 13.6V. Float maintenance is indicated by Lamp 4.

Maintenance charging - pulse (Lamp 4)
The state of charge varies between 95% and 100%. The battery receives a pulse when the voltage sinks, keeping the battery in good shape when it is not being used. The charger can be connected for months at a time.
If the battery is charged and/or the battery?s terminal voltage drops, the charger starts a charge pulse until the voltage has reached the preset level, 14.4V or 14.7V. The charge pulse is then interrupted and the cycle is repeated as long as the charger is in pulse main- tenance phase. If the terminal voltage drops even lower, the charger automatically reverts to the beginning of the charging curve. Pulse maintenance phase is indicated by lamp 4.

What I'm confused about is it supposed to perform float maintenance first at constant 13.6 and what I am seeing is pulsed to 13.6. Then pulsed maintenance is supposed to be 14.4/14.7 not 13.6 which is what I'm seeing. Unless they mean they keep pulsing at 13.6 until it reaches 14.4/14.7. I am wondering if the car has too much parasitic current draw that it can't go longer than 30s without needing to be pulsed again. If that's the case what charger am I supposed to use, go back to Deltran? If I exchange for the CTEK 3300 which uses solid state relay (FETs), it could be also pulsing the same way as the 7002 but I just wouldn't hear the relay or know about it. Hopefully this is just a faulty charger from Amazon. What voltage are you reading on your battery when charged?

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by tagta3

No red LED battery checks out fine according to charger. I did read the manual and says:

Maintenance charging - float (Lamp 4)
During the first 10 days of maintenance charging the battery is maintained with constant 13.6V. Float maintenance is indicated by Lamp 4.

Maintenance charging - pulse (Lamp 4)
The state of charge varies between 95% and 100%. The battery receives a pulse when the voltage sinks, keeping the battery in good shape when it is not being used. The charger can be connected for months at a time.
If the battery is charged and/or the battery?s terminal voltage drops, the charger starts a charge pulse until the voltage has reached the preset level, 14.4V or 14.7V. The charge pulse is then interrupted and the cycle is repeated as long as the charger is in pulse main- tenance phase. If the terminal voltage drops even lower, the charger automatically reverts to the beginning of the charging curve. Pulse maintenance phase is indicated by lamp 4.

What I'm confused about is it supposed to perform float maintenance first at constant 13.6 and what I am seeing is pulsed to 13.6. Then pulsed maintenance is supposed to be 14.4/14.7 not 13.6 which is what I'm seeing. Unless they mean they keep pulsing at 13.6 until it reaches 14.4/14.7. I am wondering if the car has too much parasitic current draw that it can't go longer than 30s without needing to be pulsed again. If that's the case what charger am I supposed to use, go back to Deltran? If I exchange for the CTEK 3300 which uses solid state relay (FETs), it could be also pulsing the same way as the 7002 but I just wouldn't hear the relay or know about it. Hopefully this is just a faulty charger from Amazon. What voltage are you reading on your battery when charged?

No idea , I only read the leds on the CTEK and after a week it's down to 50% .
In other words my car is not my DD and after a week been garaged the battery is down to half full and after 24 hours all leds are green and it's about 95% full charged with the snowflake mode .
I noticed also even when it's about full charged that the next day it's down to about 50% !
So yes our cars eat volts , but I need to say that I have an optional aftermarket alarm system in my car and even when the car is parked...dead in my garage my alarm system is continious satelite connected and probably consumes continious power .
But I was reading somewhere that our EDC consumes also power and even when we are not driving the car .

[G80indy]

You may also want to get your keys away from your car by plus 30 feet if you have comfort access. I Believe the keys keep the car computers active if they're within a given distance

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by MSteve5036

Lol. No I haven't tried yet. I just don't have many other options other than removing it or disconnecting and letting it sit there

Last winter I had mine plugged into a Battery Tender Jr with no issues. Same thing I use for my motorcycle batteries. Only difference I'm aware of is that it's 750mAh rather than 1.25A but this didn't change the end result for me. The Plus model is probably a safer bet but Jr works just fine too.

However, this year my car is stored in my condo's underground garage with no access to an electrical outlet. I was debating whether to pull the battery out of the car or just leave the negative terminal unplugged. Decided I didn't want to deal with pulling it out so I'm taking my chances and just leaving it unplugged. We'll see what happens when I fire it up after 3 months of sitting disconnected. Hoping for the best but I may end up having to jump start it. If it doesn't work out this year I plan on pulling the battery out next year. We'll see I guess...