New member: PLEASE help

bmwlover0725 · 06-05-2015, 10:24 AM

This one is complex so get ready... and all I ask is that anyone can give whatever input they have. I know it's long to read and you probably wont feel like it, but picture a desparate new father and husband of a woman who has put up with me for years and watched me rebuild my entire E30 and was patient, but glad I no longer had one of these cars - being yelled at to get this thing working. Just... picture your wife... nagging you about your vehicle. Ugh. Anyway, just please help in any way possible. I see this forum a lot and I know you guys are the next best thing to a BMW shop.

I've been on bimmer forums for years, but I haven't have one in a while. I got a 2008 M3 at auction (I'm a 25 year old finance manager at a Cadillac dealer) recently and it had a bunch of issues.

I've managed to solve the headlight which after a few days of diagnosing and resetting the FRM, ended up being a stupid ballast and a few blown bulbs. Hopefully this will be as simple and I'm overcomplicating it, but I have a feeling it isn't.

I have two remaining issues before I can get this loan put through and my boss is about to kill me because we have had the car a couple of weeks now.

After erasing the codes the following returned:

5E19 - Engine management: interface
2B5C - Throttle valves fault status, bank 2
2AFB - Intake-air temperature sensor (probably from removing the sensor and having vehicle on)
2B25 - Throttle-valve monitoring, bank 1
2B15 - Throttle-valve actuator, governor monitoring, bank 1
278A & 2789 - Catalytic-coverter conversion, (bank 2 & 1)
CD93 - Bus Off throttle valve CAN
2B14 - Throttle-valve actuator initialisation
CDC0 & CDBF - Throttle-valve actuator CAN message, (bank 2 & 1)
27B0 - Secondary air system flow rate, bank 1

I have erased them a few times and it keeps coming back for that secondary air code, so I'm assuming it is the check valve. I do have an exhaust leak that I have yet to discover the source of, but the check valves (without removing) look fine from what I could see so that confuses me a bit. The air pump works fine.

IMPORTANT: The strangest part (and believe me, I've done a lot of research on this for the past week) is that the car works fine after being completely cooled down. The secondary air still exists and wont go away, but in the morning or after several hours, the vehicle starts right up with ZERO throttle or limp mode errors and runs like a champ.

I took off the manifold, removed the air pump to inspect, looked over everything etc. After putting it back together and starting up to show my friend who hadn't yet seen it - it ran (because it was cooled down completely for hours). I let it run for about 30-45 seconds and gave it two revs to about 2k or so quickly and shut it off. Turning it back on within seconds will result in a fine start up again, but if you leave it for more than a minute or so and turn it back on - the entire dash lights up and throttle goes into limp mode. Let it cool down and later on or in the morning, it runs fine (with the exception of the secondary air thing which does affect it's performance other than a slightly rough idle.

This leads me to believe that the throttle actuators themselves aren't the issue because they run perfectly in the cold and the car has NO issues even after an hour of running. This only happens after shutting off and turning on.

ONE MORE FINAL VERY VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL: The engine is VERY clean - WAY too clean for 134k miles. Like... brand new clean... which is very... good in a few ways, but madening and frightening to think about. I'd assume that this could mean a software issue.

Basically if you scrolled down because this is too long to read, my question is "why does my car start fine in the morning, drive forever without issues, and goes into limp mode after shutting it off for a minute and turning it back on until the next time it cools down and works again?" Sorry for the extremely long post here, but I'm trying to give as much detail as possible.

If I can get some help here on getting this thing to work then feel free to post a donation link. I know you have to take my word for that, but I can assure you that after this whole thing is done - that I will donate and remain active here.

tbrown1985 · 06-05-2015, 01:52 PM

Went through something similar a while back with my former e60 M5. My bet would be the throttle actuators. Fixed it for me.

tbrown1985 · 06-05-2015, 01:57 PM

When it goes into limp mode what are is your RPM limit reduced to? 4500?

bmwlover0725 · 06-05-2015, 03:05 PM

Very glad this is getting attention. So appreciative of the help you guys have no idea. I've felt very lost here.

I'm quoting and responding below, but I thought I'd add two things. Just did a battery test and I'm reading 12.22v. I just drove it for about 30 seconds to the Subway next to my building to grab lunch and immediately shut it off when I got there. Went inside for 7 minutes and went out to the vehicle back in limp mode when I turned it on. The other thing in reference to the last thing I'm quoting below from tbrown1985 - one thing to note that when this is in limp mode is the difference in idle. The idle when the vehicle runs well is around 600. Limp mode it runs rough (obviously) and stays right around 900-1k. Is this abnormal or is it just limp mode? I did have a hard start a couple of times, but that was it. It also has a tendency to stall when it is fully heated up and in limp mode. Drives perfectly, but getting out and running it again in limp mode, the vehicle can barely move and wants to stall badly. Is this possibly a battery/ICV issue? Remember, it wants to stall when it is hotter, but ONLY when it limp mode. Guess I kind of need a battery either way

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrFerry

This will sound way too simple, but it works to fix a bunch of the fuel system gremlins and intermittent codes - even the infamous "increased emissions" warning:
Step 1: Go to a gas station and fill up with pure gasoline in the highest octane rating available (93 or higher)

Step 2: Pour in to the gas tank one a half bottles of Techron (as shown in the image attached) that equates to 18 fluid ounces in a full fuel tank

Step 3: Start car and allow to warm up

Step 4: Find secluded road, or highway, and drive the car hard (at high RPM) with plenty of WOT shifting

This has the effect of cleaning the sh*t out of the fuel system, throttle bodies, inlet valves, 02 Sensor, you name it. If you have any water in the fuel tank, from bad fuel (remember ethanol absorbs water so stay away from crappy fuel with 10% ethanol in it IMO), or carbon build up, or the think has been stored for a while (condensation in the tank?) the S65 engine will not behave well. It's essentially darn near a race engine.

Step 5: Go on a joy ride in the mountains of canyons or farm land for at least 50 miles and drive the living piss out of it. Your M3 will thank you for it and those ECU Gremlins will shrink and die.

Step 6: Tell "She Who Must Be Obeyed" that there's a new lady in your life. No, on second thoughts, don't tell her that. Just tell her to get in the passenger seat, strap in, hold on and shut up

SERIOUSLY, I have had Techron cure a lot of issues AND it's cheap AND the car gains about 20hp when you use it. Good Luck and let me know how it works.

Worth a shot! Definitely wont hurt it. I love Techron. Been using it for years - just not frequently enough in anything. I'll avoid step 6 though. Don't want the thing vandalized

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbrown1985

Went through something similar a while back with my former e60 M5. My bet would be the throttle actuators. Fixed it for me.

What was your vehicle doing? Was it the same issue with cold startup? Most of the issues I've found require the vehicle to be turned off and on again. Mine is the opposite. Turned off working, turned on and it stops working (when heated of course)

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbrown1985

When it goes into limp mode what are is your RPM limit reduced to? 4500?

That would be the magic number. Does this have anything to do with something specific? I wasn't sure if it limits it differently based on the situation it detects, but now I wonder.

Flying Ace · 06-05-2015, 03:12 PM

I too feel it is also emissions equipment related...such as throttle actuator issue. What is weird is, you have a lot more codes than a standard throttle actuator issue, which leads me to believe there's some additional sensor issue as well.

Perhaps it's worth paying a indy shop or dealership to diagnose for you before you decide who will fix it?

bmwlover0725 · 06-05-2015, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrFerry

When the 08s first came out there was an SIB issued for defective throttle body causing stalling and limp home mode. Search for threads on this list they're still out there. Maybe your car never had the throttle body SIB performed and/or replaced. Check service history via VIN

I'm at work, but I did a quick search and didn't come across anything. Keeps showing me actuator issues. What was the issue with the throttle body and how do I check by VIN? Just a BMW dealer?

aris21 · 06-05-2015, 08:40 PM

I would check your computer. Sounds like a software issue to me. Take it to the dealership and have them diagnose - will eliminate your guessing/assuming and no headache!

Flying Ace · 06-05-2015, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrFerry

I think it was SIB 130508 = Rough Idle, Rough Running, Misfiring and Loss of Power (rpl 3/09) from May-'09. See attached SIB listing on page 4 for the fuel system. The BMW Dealer Service Manager can print a service history for the vehicle using the VIN and your key. The history will show if the SIB was done for your car.

Good call!

bmwlover0725 · 06-05-2015, 08:48 PM

Alright so I'm coming to a conclusion, but I won't be able to update yet. Any more input will of course be taken into consideration in the mean time. After reviewing M5 (why I didn't search this with M5/6 is beyond me. No sleep this week with the kid hasn't helped me to think better

- anyway, I found my EXACT issue (only works in cold, etc...) and literally every single one was fixed by replacing the throttle actuator(s). This crossed my mind, as I read about the issue with resistors going bad. I know resistors don't like excessive heat and power overload. I just figured it may be more with so many different codes, but many have had both go.

A fresh code pull the same, but a couple different codes for each actuator. I'd assume that this could be because if one doesn't work, they both will come up with at least one code. Maybe they're both bad. I'm going to open them and see if the failure is as obvious on the post I read about the resistor looking totally black compared to the others and give one a shot by soldering it. If it works or temporarily does, then I will replace them with new units.

This leaves me with secondary air to tackle which even though the valve looked clean, I'll be taking it out to examine it. I may just replace it. The pump works great, but the exhaust leak on bank 2 is incredibly loud with the air pump on. Louder than it should be which suggests that the bank 1 code really is for a valve that is stuck in the closed position.

So while I'm not done, I'd like to thank everyone so far. I always had regular 3 series, but this seems to be the best place for M related posts to get attention. You guys are seriously amazing for this. It was (hopefully) so simple and I didn't think to look at M5/6 posts.

While I'm here I may as well spout off some details on the car and my to-do list. I have yet to build a mod list, but I have a list to get it in full working order.

Vehicle is an 08 M3 with every single option available (including CF roof) minus DCT and 19" wheels which I didn't want. I paid 17400 for it and it has 134k. I'm starting to think it has a rebuilt motor which scares me, but it runs great when it works and the valves, heads, pistons, everything - all look BRAND new and all the fluids are fresh.

To-do list:

-Unplug and try to get rear brake sensor to rest without buying a new one (front done)
-Fix seatbelt extenders to actually spring up
-Stop secondary air code
-Find and repair exhaust leak
-Replace shift knob

That's it for now. Thank you so much again for your help. I'll be wrapping this up and keeping updated over the weekend.

bmwlover0725 · 06-05-2015, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aris21

I would check your computer. Sounds like a software issue to me. Take it to the dealership and have them diagnose - will eliminate your guessing/assuming and no headache!

That will be the next step if this doesn't work. I used to work at the dealer to so I still know some of the guys. Just been too busy to get over there. I'll definitely have them print my service records which I pray they exist.

Flea7 · 06-05-2015, 09:31 PM

I'm gonna say that you replace both throttle valve actuators and it will fix the problem.
I got all of those codes except the intake sensor and the cat. converter code when both mine went bad.

Do you get a high emissions error?

Time Lord · 06-06-2015, 02:09 AM

Why didn't you get a warrenty from the dealer you work at?

bmwlover0725 · 06-06-2015, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Time Lord

Why didn't you get a warrenty from the dealer you work at?

Wish I could have. I'm the finance manager so I'm the one who does all of that stuff here. We do the GMPP which is by far one of the best in the industry and I'm sure people on here can agree with that. My issue is that I can't write a warranty on a vehicle over 100k. I am getting a powertrain from Route 66 which will cover me against anything like this, but I have to get it to pass inspection first and put my loan through. Otherwise it isn't active yet. I did think about fixing the secondary air issue and just passing the vehicle for inspection and bringing it in for the throttle problem, but I'd rather learn this one myself. Hopefully this will be a matter of the resistors and I can replace them, but we will see tonight or tomorrow.

bmwlover0725 · 06-06-2015, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flea7

I'm gonna say that you replace both throttle valve actuators and it will fix the problem.
I got all of those codes except the intake sensor and the cat. converter code when both mine went bad.

Do you get a high emissions error?

Yes I did. Although I know it's part of the throttle issue as well, I do have a secondary air flow issue on bank 1 so I think I would be getting the emissions warning either way

BPMSport · 06-07-2015, 11:25 AM

The car probably has two faulty throttle actuators. Replace them, clear faults and see if any return. While you're in there I'd probably replace the ICV too as it's another common failure point.

bmwlover0725 · 06-07-2015, 06:52 PM

So the redline used to stop where the vehicle would be when it was cold (obviously). When I would restart it, the redline would stop for a second during initialization and it would then go to 4k for limp mode and stay there.

After taking them out and turning the gears to see if it would work, it no longer hesitates and goes straight to 4k. This pretty much concludes what everyone said that it is the actuators.

The boards seem fine (which sucks cause I got two transistors locally by some miracle), but the gears seem pretty bad. Here are pictures of everything.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ldz0jfvkwy...%20pm.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fm9zber28q...%20pm.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8jcufmthv4...%20pm.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6gogjorlm1...%20pm.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rwclz0a5rc...%20pm.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6n4bqy8ex...%20pm.jpg?dl=0

So the actuators... great

Looks like someone has been in one of these based on the anti-seize all over one...

thekurgan · 06-07-2015, 08:13 PM

Shitty design, shitty location and no easy access for lubrication = fail.

tbrown1985 · 06-08-2015, 09:53 AM

Actuators should fix it. Bad ones usually dont let the throttle fully close so when you perform a warm start your mixture is immediately off and you get the error right away. The car doesnt even start checking the emmissions stuff until it enters closed loop, so that's most likely why the errors dont show up on the cold start. You'll find much more info on M5board so that was a good call searching over there. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

bmwlover0725 · 06-08-2015, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbrown1985

Actuators should fix it. Bad ones usually dont let the throttle fully close so when you perform a warm start your mixture is immediately off and you get the error right away. The car doesnt even start checking the emmissions stuff until it enters closed loop, so that's most likely why the errors dont show up on the cold start. You'll find much more info on M5board so that was a good call searching over there. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

You sir have been an absolute hero in this. That completely makes sense now especially because when I was reinstalling them, I had to push the throttle open slightly to fit the rod back on and it stayed in that position which would mean that the throttle is always slightly open with my bad actuators.

I found a set with 30k on them for 435 shipped with a 90 day guarantee. I know they may already be somewhat worn, but that will give me a little bit of time to get this inspected and make my warranty active so I can have them replaced with new once they fail again. I'll update later this week when installed

tbrown1985 · 06-08-2015, 12:55 PM

Another good source if you need it.

http://www.troyjeup.com/

bmwlover0725 · 06-08-2015, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbrown1985

Another good source if you need it.

http://www.troyjeup.com/

Wow that will be a good one for future use and for my friend's M6. Thanks!

bmwlover0725 · 06-11-2015, 09:45 PM

Well I did it. Got them today in beautiful shape for 435 shipped. I think it was the bank 1, but bank 2 didn't look like it was far off from failure. The new ones felt more solid when I manually pushed the motor and they were much cleaner and didn't have any play at all. They actually looked like they were brand new and just replaced before the vehicle they were in was totaled.

The bottom line is that they worked great. I owe everyone here a HUGE thank you. I'll be throwing a donation of 50 bucks once my next commission check hits. This forum is worth every penny of that - plus.

I've done a how-to video that I'll be putting together as soon as I get some time. The DIY is great, but I'm sure a video will be an added benefit to that article.

Thanks again everyone!!

06-05-2015, 10:24 AM	#1
bmwlover0725 Second Lieutenant 132 Rep 265 Posts Drives: 2008 M3 Coupe Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Syracuse, NY iTrader: (1)	New member: PLEASE help This one is complex so get ready... and all I ask is that anyone can give whatever input they have. I know it's long to read and you probably wont feel like it, but picture a desparate new father and husband of a woman who has put up with me for years and watched me rebuild my entire E30 and was patient, but glad I no longer had one of these cars - being yelled at to get this thing working. Just... picture your wife... nagging you about your vehicle. Ugh. Anyway, just please help in any way possible. I see this forum a lot and I know you guys are the next best thing to a BMW shop. I've been on bimmer forums for years, but I haven't have one in a while. I got a 2008 M3 at auction (I'm a 25 year old finance manager at a Cadillac dealer) recently and it had a bunch of issues. I've managed to solve the headlight which after a few days of diagnosing and resetting the FRM, ended up being a stupid ballast and a few blown bulbs. Hopefully this will be as simple and I'm overcomplicating it, but I have a feeling it isn't. I have two remaining issues before I can get this loan put through and my boss is about to kill me because we have had the car a couple of weeks now. After erasing the codes the following returned: 5E19 - Engine management: interface 2B5C - Throttle valves fault status, bank 2 2AFB - Intake-air temperature sensor (probably from removing the sensor and having vehicle on) 2B25 - Throttle-valve monitoring, bank 1 2B15 - Throttle-valve actuator, governor monitoring, bank 1 278A & 2789 - Catalytic-coverter conversion, (bank 2 & 1) CD93 - Bus Off throttle valve CAN 2B14 - Throttle-valve actuator initialisation CDC0 & CDBF - Throttle-valve actuator CAN message, (bank 2 & 1) 27B0 - Secondary air system flow rate, bank 1 I have erased them a few times and it keeps coming back for that secondary air code, so I'm assuming it is the check valve. I do have an exhaust leak that I have yet to discover the source of, but the check valves (without removing) look fine from what I could see so that confuses me a bit. The air pump works fine. IMPORTANT: The strangest part (and believe me, I've done a lot of research on this for the past week) is that the car works fine after being completely cooled down. The secondary air still exists and wont go away, but in the morning or after several hours, the vehicle starts right up with ZERO throttle or limp mode errors and runs like a champ. I took off the manifold, removed the air pump to inspect, looked over everything etc. After putting it back together and starting up to show my friend who hadn't yet seen it - it ran (because it was cooled down completely for hours). I let it run for about 30-45 seconds and gave it two revs to about 2k or so quickly and shut it off. Turning it back on within seconds will result in a fine start up again, but if you leave it for more than a minute or so and turn it back on - the entire dash lights up and throttle goes into limp mode. Let it cool down and later on or in the morning, it runs fine (with the exception of the secondary air thing which does affect it's performance other than a slightly rough idle. This leads me to believe that the throttle actuators themselves aren't the issue because they run perfectly in the cold and the car has NO issues even after an hour of running. This only happens after shutting off and turning on. ONE MORE FINAL VERY VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL: The engine is VERY clean - WAY too clean for 134k miles. Like... brand new clean... which is very... good in a few ways, but madening and frightening to think about. I'd assume that this could mean a software issue. Basically if you scrolled down because this is too long to read, my question is "why does my car start fine in the morning, drive forever without issues, and goes into limp mode after shutting it off for a minute and turning it back on until the next time it cools down and works again?" Sorry for the extremely long post here, but I'm trying to give as much detail as possible. If I can get some help here on getting this thing to work then feel free to post a donation link. I know you have to take my word for that, but I can assure you that after this whole thing is done - that I will donate and remain active here.
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

06-05-2015, 01:52 PM	#2
tbrown1985 Private 3 Rep 67 Posts Drives: 2011 E92 M3 ZCP Alpine White Join Date: May 2015 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (2)	Went through something similar a while back with my former e60 M5. My bet would be the throttle actuators. Fixed it for me.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-05-2015, 01:57 PM	#3
tbrown1985 Private 3 Rep 67 Posts Drives: 2011 E92 M3 ZCP Alpine White Join Date: May 2015 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (2)	When it goes into limp mode what are is your RPM limit reduced to? 4500?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-05-2015, 03:12 PM	#5
Flying Ace Lieutenant General 4985 Rep 11,891 Posts Drives: G05 45e, 997.1 & 991.1 GT3s Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: SF, CA iTrader: (5)	I too feel it is also emissions equipment related...such as throttle actuator issue. What is weird is, you have a lot more codes than a standard throttle actuator issue, which leads me to believe there's some additional sensor issue as well. Perhaps it's worth paying a indy shop or dealership to diagnose for you before you decide who will fix it? __________________ 22 Phytonic/Coffee X5 45e (CoVID-free) 08 Speed Yellow 911 GT3 Sharkwerks 12 AW/Cinnamon X5d Sports Pkg (retired) 14 AW/Beige M6GC ZCP, MPE, V2 steering wheel, vorsteiner (retired) 08 SSII/Black E90 M3 (retired)
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-05-2015, 08:40 PM	#7
aris21 Private First Class 36 Rep 176 Posts Drives: 2011 M3 E92 Join Date: May 2015 Location: San Francisco, CA iTrader: (1)	I would check your computer. Sounds like a software issue to me. Take it to the dealership and have them diagnose - will eliminate your guessing/assuming and no headache!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-05-2015, 08:48 PM	#9
bmwlover0725 Second Lieutenant 132 Rep 265 Posts Drives: 2008 M3 Coupe Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Syracuse, NY iTrader: (1)	Alright so I'm coming to a conclusion, but I won't be able to update yet. Any more input will of course be taken into consideration in the mean time. After reviewing M5 (why I didn't search this with M5/6 is beyond me. No sleep this week with the kid hasn't helped me to think better - anyway, I found my EXACT issue (only works in cold, etc...) and literally every single one was fixed by replacing the throttle actuator(s). This crossed my mind, as I read about the issue with resistors going bad. I know resistors don't like excessive heat and power overload. I just figured it may be more with so many different codes, but many have had both go. A fresh code pull the same, but a couple different codes for each actuator. I'd assume that this could be because if one doesn't work, they both will come up with at least one code. Maybe they're both bad. I'm going to open them and see if the failure is as obvious on the post I read about the resistor looking totally black compared to the others and give one a shot by soldering it. If it works or temporarily does, then I will replace them with new units. This leaves me with secondary air to tackle which even though the valve looked clean, I'll be taking it out to examine it. I may just replace it. The pump works great, but the exhaust leak on bank 2 is incredibly loud with the air pump on. Louder than it should be which suggests that the bank 1 code really is for a valve that is stuck in the closed position. So while I'm not done, I'd like to thank everyone so far. I always had regular 3 series, but this seems to be the best place for M related posts to get attention. You guys are seriously amazing for this. It was (hopefully) so simple and I didn't think to look at M5/6 posts. While I'm here I may as well spout off some details on the car and my to-do list. I have yet to build a mod list, but I have a list to get it in full working order. Vehicle is an 08 M3 with every single option available (including CF roof) minus DCT and 19" wheels which I didn't want. I paid 17400 for it and it has 134k. I'm starting to think it has a rebuilt motor which scares me, but it runs great when it works and the valves, heads, pistons, everything - all look BRAND new and all the fluids are fresh. To-do list: -Unplug and try to get rear brake sensor to rest without buying a new one (front done) -Fix seatbelt extenders to actually spring up -Stop secondary air code -Find and repair exhaust leak -Replace shift knob That's it for now. Thank you so much again for your help. I'll be wrapping this up and keeping updated over the weekend.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-05-2015, 09:31 PM	#11
Flea7 Major 112 Rep 1,260 Posts Drives: E92 M3 6MT/F48 X1/F430/F12 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: PNW iTrader: (6) Garage List 2016 X1 [0.00] 2008 E92 M3 [0.00] 2005 Ferrari F430 [0.00] 2014 Ferrari F12 Be ... [10.00]	I'm gonna say that you replace both throttle valve actuators and it will fix the problem. I got all of those codes except the intake sensor and the cat. converter code when both mine went bad. Do you get a high emissions error? __________________
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-06-2015, 02:09 AM	#12
Time Lord BimmerPost Supporting Vendor 125 Rep 698 Posts Drives: 2018 F80 ZCP Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NW Florida iTrader: (5)	Why didn't you get a warrenty from the dealer you work at?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-07-2015, 11:25 AM	#15
BPMSport BimmerPost Supporting Vendor 3387 Rep 7,542 Posts Drives: Harrop M3 / F10 M5 / F82 M4 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SoCal iTrader: (9) Garage List 2000 BMW M5 [0.00] 1990 BMW 735i Turbo [0.00] 2008 BMW M3 [7.50] 2015 BMW M3 [0.00] 2015 BMW M5 [0.00]	The car probably has two faulty throttle actuators. Replace them, clear faults and see if any return. While you're in there I'd probably replace the ICV too as it's another common failure point. __________________ -----\| Like us on Facebook \| Instagram \|\| Tuning Information \| Remote Coding \|----- ----Visit us at www.BPMSport.com - Emotion. Driven. \| Toll Free: (888) 557-5133----
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-07-2015, 06:52 PM	#16
bmwlover0725 Second Lieutenant 132 Rep 265 Posts Drives: 2008 M3 Coupe Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Syracuse, NY iTrader: (1)	So the redline used to stop where the vehicle would be when it was cold (obviously). When I would restart it, the redline would stop for a second during initialization and it would then go to 4k for limp mode and stay there. After taking them out and turning the gears to see if it would work, it no longer hesitates and goes straight to 4k. This pretty much concludes what everyone said that it is the actuators. The boards seem fine (which sucks cause I got two transistors locally by some miracle), but the gears seem pretty bad. Here are pictures of everything. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ldz0jfvkwy...%20pm.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/fm9zber28q...%20pm.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/8jcufmthv4...%20pm.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/6gogjorlm1...%20pm.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/rwclz0a5rc...%20pm.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6n4bqy8ex...%20pm.jpg?dl=0 So the actuators... great Looks like someone has been in one of these based on the anti-seize all over one... Last edited by bmwlover0725; 06-07-2015 at 07:34 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-07-2015, 08:13 PM	#17
thekurgan Bad Lieutenant 233 Rep 3,517 Posts Drives: E90M3 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Sacramento iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW M3 [0.00]	Shitty design, shitty location and no easy access for lubrication = fail. __________________ 02 E39M5 \| TiAg/Schwartz \| Tubi Rumore \| Ultimate Ti Pedals \| E60 SSK \| Jim Blanton 3.45 40/100% \| Coby Alcantara \| StrongStrut STB
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-08-2015, 09:53 AM	#18
tbrown1985 Private 3 Rep 67 Posts Drives: 2011 E92 M3 ZCP Alpine White Join Date: May 2015 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (2)	Actuators should fix it. Bad ones usually dont let the throttle fully close so when you perform a warm start your mixture is immediately off and you get the error right away. The car doesnt even start checking the emmissions stuff until it enters closed loop, so that's most likely why the errors dont show up on the cold start. You'll find much more info on M5board so that was a good call searching over there. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-08-2015, 12:55 PM	#20
tbrown1985 Private 3 Rep 67 Posts Drives: 2011 E92 M3 ZCP Alpine White Join Date: May 2015 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (2)	Another good source if you need it. http://www.troyjeup.com/
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-11-2015, 09:45 PM	#22
bmwlover0725 Second Lieutenant 132 Rep 265 Posts Drives: 2008 M3 Coupe Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Syracuse, NY iTrader: (1)	Well I did it. Got them today in beautiful shape for 435 shipped. I think it was the bank 1, but bank 2 didn't look like it was far off from failure. The new ones felt more solid when I manually pushed the motor and they were much cleaner and didn't have any play at all. They actually looked like they were brand new and just replaced before the vehicle they were in was totaled. The bottom line is that they worked great. I owe everyone here a HUGE thank you. I'll be throwing a donation of 50 bucks once my next commission check hits. This forum is worth every penny of that - plus. I've done a how-to video that I'll be putting together as soon as I get some time. The DIY is great, but I'm sure a video will be an added benefit to that article. Thanks again everyone!!
	Appreciate 0 Quote