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      10-05-2017, 09:12 PM   #727
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09 ~50K miles Bank 1 Actuator fault

So I had the limp mode, my handy bluetooth reader I leave on the car at all times sent the code to my phone almost instantly. I looked it up and had a bank 1 actuator failure. Much thanks to this forum for the DIY. The original part after removal was dated from 2008. I ordered a single replacement, but after opening the first failed actuator and seeing the ground down black gear teeth cupped, etc. I ordered the second actuator and replaced both. It's way too much work to tear down to this level to replace one and then have the second one fail a few weeks later. Anyway after I got both replacements in I opened the second old actuator and actually saw it was worse off than the first. Note, both of them dumped a pile of plastic shavings out of the housing when I opened them. The black gear is chewed up good at the start and stop positions. I suspect it either chatters there or hunts around wearing the teeth down. Both PCBS looked good. End result: I replaced both and I'm glad I did after seeing the condition of the second one. The car runs good. Question: I already cleared the fault codes, but should I clear the stored engine adaptations after the fault codes to get everything back to full potential? Edit: never mind I see my question might be answered above me in the previous post.
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      10-06-2017, 12:22 AM   #728
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some photos of the worn out gears in my actuator
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      10-06-2017, 02:04 AM   #729
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Great photos Dream,
You saved me the trouble of posting photos since that's exactly what I found inside my actuators. I'm amazed BMW hasn't come forward and said whoops we goofed designing this part, sorry guys, we will replace these our bad. Oh wait they didn't do that for the rod bearings so yeah never mind.
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      10-07-2017, 02:52 AM   #730
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The TBA is so unnecessarily complicated, no matter how I look at it. I've seen actuators that are as basic as a dowel pin and some springs...I have a feeling this was ported from the F1 design as well, and was originally meant to be replaced regularly.
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      10-09-2017, 12:14 PM   #731
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Have many of you found gear kits don't work?

It needs a full electrical rebuild.
Rebuild.org.uk offers a worldwide core service (2 days delivery) 100% guarantee fix.
It only around 650usd for both and you get a LIFETIME warranty.
Hope this helps you all.
Regards Jay
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      10-10-2017, 03:18 PM   #732
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I can vouch for Jason's work at rebuild.org.uk. You are wasting your time messing with the gears and motherboards when he has a fix with a lifetime guarantee on the unit.

I am in the states (NC) and paid a deposit to have him ship me a rebuilt unit. It was sent FedEx Express and arrived 3 days later. I swapped my bad one out for the rebuilt one, cleared codes, and its been absolutely flawless. Put the bad one in the same box and shipped it back. I received my deposit back in my account as soon as he received my bad actuator.

You cannot beat the quality and ease of this service. It is nearly half the price of a new one from ECS Tuning and includes a lifetime warranty. Feel free to ask me anything about it!
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      10-19-2017, 02:29 AM   #733
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Hi guys,

Another +1 for Jason at Rebuild. I just did mine and couldn't be happier.
The job itself is ridiculously easy. From bonnet up to bonnet down it was a few minutes under 2 hours.

Observation - For the last 3 months my cold start cycle has been running longer and longer, to the point where I was timing it out to about 2 full minutes. After these bad boys went in the CSS is back to exactly 60 seconds like when I first picked the car up.
Could be conflating things but the long CSS may be an indicator of TVA's starting the failure process.

Cheers,
Craig
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      10-23-2017, 04:58 PM   #734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzCraig View Post
Hi guys,

Another +1 for Jason at Rebuild. I just did mine and couldn't be happier.
The job itself is ridiculously easy. From bonnet up to bonnet down it was a few minutes under 2 hours.

Observation - For the last 3 months my cold start cycle has been running longer and longer, to the point where I was timing it out to about 2 full minutes. After these bad boys went in the CSS is back to exactly 60 seconds like when I first picked the car up.
Could be conflating things but the long CSS may be an indicator of TVA's starting the failure process.

Cheers,
Craig
Stage II tune switches off the cold start. Another thing to look out in these cars is the thermostat failure. Another DIY
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      10-23-2017, 06:50 PM   #735
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Can someone explain if it's necessary to clear adaptations after replacement of the Throttle Actuators and if so, how that is done?

I use Carly to read and clear codes, so maybe I don't have an option to clear adaptations.
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      10-23-2017, 09:03 PM   #736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlaw View Post
Can someone explain if it's necessary to clear adaptations after replacement of the Throttle Actuators and if so, how that is done?

I use Carly to read and clear codes, so maybe I don't have an option to clear adaptations.
None needed. Clear codes and drive.
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      10-24-2017, 01:43 PM   #737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAVMUSCL View Post
I can vouch for Jason's work at rebuild.org.uk. You are wasting your time messing with the gears and motherboards when he has a fix with a lifetime guarantee on the unit.

I am in the states (NC) and paid a deposit to have him ship me a rebuilt unit. It was sent FedEx Express and arrived 3 days later. I swapped my bad one out for the rebuilt one, cleared codes, and its been absolutely flawless. Put the bad one in the same box and shipped it back. I received my deposit back in my account as soon as he received my bad actuator.

You cannot beat the quality and ease of this service. It is nearly half the price of a new one from ECS Tuning and includes a lifetime warranty. Feel free to ask me anything about it!
BAVMUSCL - quick question - what service did you use to ship your old actuators back to Jason (FedEx?), and how much did the shipping cost?

Thanks!
-Derron
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      10-26-2017, 04:40 PM   #738
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Originally Posted by gordon@ View Post
None needed. Clear codes and drive.
Just got my car back from dealer after TA #2 replacement and Codes have been cleared, and the car feels smooth but power delivery seems laggier/slower. I'm guessing because the throttle has been reset. Is there anything else I need to do to restore the power delivery and response besides driving it in a more spirited fashion? How does one reset adaptations?
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      10-26-2017, 05:58 PM   #739
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I am not sure but unless the #2 throttle bank is not getting to WOT position (which I assume would generate codes), nothing can be done to change power delivery under this circumstance. Unless something else has changed.
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      10-26-2017, 07:31 PM   #740
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Originally Posted by KawBoy View Post
I am not sure but unless the #2 throttle bank is not getting to WOT position (which I assume would generate codes), nothing can be done to change power delivery under this circumstance. Unless something else has changed.
Thanks. Actually after driving it a bit more I am getting the "Increased Emissions" code again and SES light. Plugged in Carly app and it is saying "Secondary air valve Bank 2 002763". Do those go bad after TA replacement?

I also tried a generic OBD code reader just for S&G, and it is showing P0010 "A Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit / Open Bank 1".

Strange. Gonna have to bring it back.
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      10-26-2017, 07:50 PM   #741
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I don't think TA and secondary air valves are related. Secondary air valves are those on the back of the valve covers, if I'm not mistaken.
I am sure you can code the air pump out with a tune or something, but since you just had the job performed by the dealer, I'd bring the car back and hear what they have to say.
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      10-26-2017, 08:14 PM   #742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KawBoy View Post
I don't think TA and secondary air valves are related. Secondary air valves are those on the back of the valve covers, if I'm not mistaken.
I am sure you can code the air pump out with a tune or something, but since you just had the job performed by the dealer, I'd bring the car back and hear what they have to say.
Yup. That's the plan for tomorrow. Weird coincidence though. And I still don't get the drop in power after replacing the TA. Maybe your suggestion that #2 isn't getting to WOT is right...
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      10-26-2017, 08:20 PM   #743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PACarGuy View Post
Yup. That's the plan for tomorrow. Weird coincidence though. And I still don't get the drop in power after replacing the TA. Maybe your suggestion that #2 isn't getting to WOT is right...
I am sure it will be something simple and you'll have the car ready for the weekend. Good luck and keep us posted.
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      10-27-2017, 04:16 PM   #744
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Originally Posted by KawBoy View Post
I am sure it will be something simple and you'll have the car ready for the weekend. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thankfully, you were right KawBoy. It turned out to be a loose connection for the VANOS inlet bank #1. Tech must have missed it when he put the car back together after the TA installation. Anyway, they fixed the connection, cleared the faults and all is good. Power is back and no more codes. Ready for the weekend!!
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      10-27-2017, 09:31 PM   #745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PACarGuy View Post
Thankfully, you were right KawBoy. It turned out to be a loose connection for the VANOS inlet bank #1. Tech must have missed it when he put the car back together after the TA installation. Anyway, they fixed the connection, cleared the faults and all is good. Power is back and no more codes. Ready for the weekend!!
Glad to hear that PACarGuy. Have a great weekend! Enjoy it.
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      10-28-2017, 12:03 PM   #746
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Before reassembling all the connectors I make sure to clean the connections with electrical cleaner. Let it dry then reassemble the car.
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      11-01-2017, 05:24 PM   #747
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Is there a "better" set of actuators to replace with than OEM? Just curious.
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      11-01-2017, 07:25 PM   #748
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Quote:
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Is there a "better" set of actuators to replace with than OEM? Just curious.
No. Even rebuild options are OEM parts. Before the early revisions of the throttle actuators were made by Siemens VDO, and the newest OEM ones are not. Probably made in China now to be honest...
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