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      06-24-2021, 04:02 PM   #2685
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Originally Posted by rhyary View Post
So why is there a battery issue?
It's not a battery issue exactly. The battery is generically fine. The problem is that the AIM Solo 2 DL turns on ANY TIME it sniffs any CAN activity----even when the engine is off. So, you could return from a session, turn the engine off, turn off the unit, and then a couple minutes later, the unit will sniff some CAN activity and then turn itself on while you are away from the car. The unit will stay on for long periods of time which blasts the battery. You return to the car to drive 1-2 hours later and the unit has been on for most of that time......the battery is mostly drained at that point.

There is a feature/setting option on the AIM labeled "Wake from ECU". You'd think if you choose Disabled, that the unit would not turn on by itself.......but it does.....Maybe I should try Enabled......would be ridiculous if it didn't turn on then.....
In the last update they added 2min and 5min auto shut off. Can that help?
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      06-24-2021, 05:32 PM   #2686
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In the last update they added 2min and 5min auto shut off. Can that help?
the device just turns back on as soon as it sniffs more CAN data……
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      07-09-2021, 08:11 AM   #2687
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Got the car back last night from the shop. They welded a support tube from the cage's dash bar down to the brake assembly for support. We ended up having to replace the brake assembly with the one we got from the junkyard because the assembly was fatigued. I ended up with a larger brake pedal which I've been wanting for some time. They also took care of some other mounting stuff behind/under the dash that has been lingering for years.

Also, one other mod has been done to the car which I've been wanting for some time. It's operational but not fully finished yet. I don't have a good pic of it yet, so I'm just teasing it for now. I am signed up to run NASA TT at Pueblo this weekend so I'll get a picture of it soon.

It looks like I will run TTU this weekend to try to activate the tire contingency. TTU has 4 guys in it now. If I move over to TTU, then there would be 5 and we have a chance at tires. TT1 only has 2 guys. Looking forward to getting back out there!

Here's a couple pix of the support tube.



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      07-11-2021, 10:31 AM   #2688
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Let's file this one under: Well......back to the drawing board.

I'm disappointed to report that the fix for the brake pedal did not hold. I got through the practice/qualifying session ok. Qualified 1st. Then, in the first competition session, on the first hot lap, in the first big braking zone for Turn 1, something broke/snapped again under my foot in the pedal assembly. I was so annoyed, I didn't even bother finishing the lap. The track has a mid-course exit at Turn 7. I exited there.

Looked under the dash. The new support bar that had been welded to the cage was still intact. But the aluminum eyelet hole on the brake assembly that bolted into that support point had cracked and broken away from the support point. What we are taking this to mean is that the firewall is bowed out so much, it's lowering the brake assembly so much that too much stress is on that top support eyelet and it broke under the strain. It's looking like we are going to have to weld plating in front of the firewall to create a new support for the brake assembly that was bolting to the firewall. sigh.......

So, the competitive aspect of the weekend was over before I could get a lap in. But I had something else to consider. I have been thinking about doing NASA TT Nationals at Daytona in September. You need 5 days of registering laps in competitions to do Nationals. I decided that I should at least register a lap in the competition so I get credit for the day. The brake pedal was operational if you pressed it gently----you just couldn't press it hard. I decided to do another session where I would simply go out and register an officially-recognized lap on the transponder. Went out at the back of the B group and slowly cruised the track without hardly needing to brake. Got my lap in, and then left to take the car to the shop.

I am now feeling a bit of a time crunch. I need to get this brake situation sorted out with a permanent fix because I'm scheduled to trailer the car out to Watkins Glen in mid-August when I take my daughter to college.

I mentioned a mod that's been done to the car. We cut the front fenders so that the wheel well can vent out the back in addition to the top. For now, it's still in the concept stage. It's not pretty, but the cuts are done and a brace has been fabricated for the inside to hold the plastic parts steady. There's going to be more "prettying-it-up" work on it later. And I think we are going to have to move the brake booster to finalize it.

I didn't get any awesome pix, but here's what it's looking like:




Other than the brake pedal, I am satisfied with how the car is working overall. I believe I like these current rear springs. I am hopeful that once we get past this brake pedal issue that the car can be in decent working condition. But I gotta tell ya.....this brake pedal thing is......frustrating.....

Oh----and Global Time Attack was added to the Long Beach Grand Prix. I was asked if I wanted to participate. I'm looking into the logistics of all that. The main issue is that it's the weekend following NASA TT Nationals. So, I gotta do a cross-country haul from Florida to California in three days. And if anything goes wrong with the car in Florida.....it's gonna be a challenge to get the car fixed in time. Anyway, I'm looking into it.
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      07-11-2021, 12:21 PM   #2689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
. So, I gotta do a cross-country haul from Florida to California in three days. And if anything goes wrong with the car in Florida.....it's gonna be a challenge to get the car fixed in time. Anyway, I'm looking into it.
Just a stop at your friends at OG Shark Motorsports and you'd be on your way. You've seen Will in action, he'd rebuild that car in 2 days if you let him.
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      07-11-2021, 08:00 PM   #2690
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if you are running in the GTA event in long beach, i'll make it a point to be there. at the very least, you'll have to stop by my pad for a beer and a burger.

also- if you're not running fender liners, have you considered cutting away the fake vents on the blinker badge and making that a functional vent? might be fun.
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      07-12-2021, 01:42 AM   #2691
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Just a stop at your friends at OG Shark Motorsports and you'd be on your way. You've seen Will in action, he'd rebuild that car in 2 days if you let him.
Definitely would consider it!
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      07-12-2021, 01:45 AM   #2692
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Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
if you are running in the GTA event in long beach, i'll make it a point to be there. at the very least, you'll have to stop by my pad for a beer and a burger.

also- if you're not running fender liners, have you considered cutting away the fake vents on the blinker badge and making that a functional vent? might be fun.
Appreciate the offer! Would be great to catch up in person.

I think the venting I have now is enough—-top and rear. Plus, on the sedan, it’s a bit different than the coupe.
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      07-12-2021, 06:28 PM   #2693
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So have you thought about going to a different brake pedal assembly?

Something like this: Wilwood triple master brake pedal assembly

Also, when is the cross country drive? I'm retired now and have towing experience...though my rig only weighed 18,800lbs rolling down the road.
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      07-12-2021, 07:31 PM   #2694
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Quote:
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So have you thought about going to a different brake pedal assembly?

Something like this: Wilwood triple master brake pedal assembly

Also, when is the cross country drive? I'm retired now and have towing experience...though my rig only weighed 18,800lbs rolling down the road.
You wouldn't be able to retain the stock ABS going to a dual master cylinder brake pedal assembly. I assume Gabe wants to retain ABS? You could do it and add in a standalone motorsport ABS unit, but that's big $$$.

Hopefully you can get the problem sorted. Maybe you just need to brake less and put less stress on your poor pedal
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      07-12-2021, 08:22 PM   #2695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
You wouldn't be able to retain the stock ABS going to a dual master cylinder brake pedal assembly. I assume Gabe wants to retain ABS? You could do it and add in a standalone motorsport ABS unit, but that's big $$$.

Hopefully you can get the problem sorted. Maybe you just need to brake less and put less stress on your poor pedal
Meh, it's OPM (other people's money) so I tend to spend freely.

Maybe there's something out there that allows you to retain stock ABS?
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      07-12-2021, 08:28 PM   #2696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
Meh, it's OPM (other people's money) so I tend to spend freely.

Maybe there's something out there that allows you to retain stock ABS?
You could probably do the MK60 ABS standalone with an upgraded pedal assembly. Would be a lot cheaper option and should work like stock ABS, assuming you can get it all to work properly.
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      07-12-2021, 09:24 PM   #2697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
So have you thought about going to a different brake pedal assembly?

Something like this: Wilwood triple master brake pedal assembly

Also, when is the cross country drive? I'm retired now and have towing experience...though my rig only weighed 18,800lbs rolling down the road.
I appreciate your offer!! Right now, I believe I have a solution. But I will keep you in mind if things change! If it all ends up happening, the drive would be Sept 19-22. We'll see if all the pieces come together.

As tsk94 mentioned, going to a different assembly means losing my ABS.....and it's not only a bunch of money, but a fair amount of tuning time to finalize a new braking setup. I don't think I have the time to pull it off at the moment, and I'm not overly eager to spend the money.

Right now, the option I'm pursuing is to get the factory system working again.
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      07-14-2021, 09:22 PM   #2698
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Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
I appreciate your offer!! Right now, I believe I have a solution. But I will keep you in mind if things change! If it all ends up happening, the drive would be Sept 19-22. We'll see if all the pieces come together.
I'm going to be at the Palm Springs BMW CCA event until the night of the 19th but could fly somewhere to meet folks.
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      07-15-2021, 09:46 AM   #2699
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I agree with teh approach of trying to make the OEM system work at all costs so long as you're happy with the performance. There's a lot to get wrong trying to re-engineer a really well-engineered ABS system.
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      07-15-2021, 10:29 AM   #2700
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I agree with teh approach of trying to make the OEM system work at all costs so long as you're happy with the performance. There's a lot to get wrong trying to re-engineer a really well-engineered ABS system.
Yeah, I'm definitely not up for a massive project like fully replacing the ABS right now. It's been such an arduous journey just to get the car back working again. There's just been so many things going wrong over the last 9 months. I just want to drive the car.

I do see the value in a motorsport-specific ABS system. Being able to adjust brake bias on the fly seems really cool. And I always wonder if an aftermarket brake system can be setup so that I don't have to do a damn 400lbs leg press on the brake pedal to slow the car. Never looked into it though. Isn't a real motorsport ABS like $14k or something?
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      07-15-2021, 03:13 PM   #2701
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Having to push on the pedal that hard seems like a hydraulic issue
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      07-15-2021, 07:11 PM   #2702
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Having to push on the pedal that hard seems like a hydraulic issue
I had weird soft pedal that only exhibited itself on track and at certain turns (end of long straight hard braking from high speed). Turns out the DSC pump was leaking at the hydro/electro interface. The leak was small so it would only happen under hard braking at the end of the straights. Replaced the DSC unit and it has been fine since. Took me two years, replacing the rest of the braking system, and multiple fluid flushes before I figured that out.
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      07-24-2021, 01:33 PM   #2703
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Let's file this one under: Please please please let this fix be the solution.

I was able to get the car back yesterday from Honest Assembly. They put in place a fix that we all hope is a permanent solution to the brake pedal problem. They took their time and made a fix that looks well thought out.

In their analysis of the firewall, the firewall was cracked in multiple places and it had been pushed back around 1.5 inches. They painstakingly hammered the firewall back slowly into its original position. Then they created a template for a steel plate that would be welded in many places in front of the weakened firewall. Not only was it welded around the firewall, it was also welded to the firewall. Then the support plate is welded to a new steel brace that also provides support. The top support of the brake assembly was also beefed up.

In anticipation of getting the car back and needing to test it quickly, I was signed up for an open track day at High Plains yesterday. The car wasn't finished and in my trailer until 3PM, so I would only have one session to try the car out. I headed to the track, and was eye-balling a dust storm in the distance (ahh---late afternoon CO weather). Then, I was in the middle of the dust storm while still getting to the track. Then, I actually outran the dust storm as I arrived at the track, so the wind was fairly calm. Then.....as I exited the registration building, the dust storm caught up. Didn't care. I had 30 minutes of track time. I was going to use it. Got out on track and the wind was howling....stuff blowing across the track. Didn't care.

The brake pedal was incredibly firm. Wow. During the fix process, the brake master cylinder, ABS unit, brake fluid reservoir and all the master cylinder hard lines had all been removed, so we had to do a full brake fluid flush.

Anyway, the brake system felt incredibly stout to my pedal presses. The welding, the brake fluid flush/bleed---it all felt very good. The pedal itself is back in the original OEM position which I think it hasn't been in a very long time. It's a bit closer to me than I'm used to in recent times. I'll readjust to that as quickly as possible.

I'm focused on trying to drive the car a couple more times soon to make sure it's ok before heading to Watkins Glen in mid-August to hang out with SYT_Shadow---oh yeah, and move my daughter into college.
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      07-24-2021, 02:49 PM   #2704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbone View Post
Let's file this one under: Please please please let this fix be the solution.

I was able to get the car back yesterday from Honest Assembly. They put in place a fix that we all hope is a permanent solution to the brake pedal problem. They took their time and made a fix that looks well thought out.

In their analysis of the firewall, the firewall was cracked in multiple places and it had been pushed back around 1.5 inches. They painstakingly hammered the firewall back slowly into its original position. Then they created a template for a steel plate that would be welded in many places in front of the weakened firewall. Not only was it welded around the firewall, it was also welded to the firewall. Then the support plate is welded to a new steel brace that also provides support. The top support of the brake assembly was also beefed up.

In anticipation of getting the car back and needing to test it quickly, I was signed up for an open track day at High Plains yesterday. The car wasn't finished and in my trailer until 3PM, so I would only have one session to try the car out. I headed to the track, and was eye-balling a dust storm in the distance (ahh---late afternoon CO weather). Then, I was in the middle of the dust storm while still getting to the track. Then, I actually outran the dust storm as I arrived at the track, so the wind was fairly calm. Then.....as I exited the registration building, the dust storm caught up. Didn't care. I had 30 minutes of track time. I was going to use it. Got out on track and the wind was howling....stuff blowing across the track. Didn't care.

The brake pedal was incredibly firm. Wow. During the fix process, the brake master cylinder, ABS unit, brake fluid reservoir and all the master cylinder hard lines had all been removed, so we had to do a full brake fluid flush.

Anyway, the brake system felt incredibly stout to my pedal presses. The welding, the brake fluid flush/bleed---it all felt very good. The pedal itself is back in the original OEM position which I think it hasn't been in a very long time. It's a bit closer to me than I'm used to in recent times. I'll readjust to that as quickly as possible.

I'm focused on trying to drive the car a couple more times soon to make sure it's ok before heading to Watkins Glen in mid-August to hang out with SYT_Shadow---oh yeah, and move my daughter into college.
I will be at WGI with you guys.
I couldn't pass the opportunity. :-)
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      07-24-2021, 07:21 PM   #2705
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I will be at WGI with you guys.
I couldn't pass the opportunity. :-)
Nice! Will be fun to hang out!
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      08-13-2021, 05:19 PM   #2706
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Got the car back from the shop yesterday. Was tying up a few last odds and ends before heading out to Watkins Glen.

-The rear-exit fender vents are finished. I think they turned out nice. Haven't gotten any great pictures of them yet, but hopefully soon.



-We addressed a minor crack in a rear-section exhaust pipe. Several years ago, one of the the rear-section pipes fell off and was dragging on the ground and severely rubbed the pipe. After a bunch more years of service, a small crack was showing up in the rubbed metal, so we welded a fix on there.

-After the all the brake pedal assembly work, the dash was installed a bit differently than before, so it was sitting lower than I was used to, so we got it so it sits where I'm familiar.

I am still having one odd issue that appeared fairly recently: The tail lights that light up if your headlights are on, are lit up all the time.....even when the car isn't running and the headlight switch is set to off. This drains the battery. So, for the time being, I have to fully turn the battery off so it doesn't die between sessions. Not sure what's going on there.....Also, my red parking brake light is on all the time on the dash. None of this affects the drivability of the car, but it's annoying.

Anyway, I'm feeling good about the car overall. I believe it is ready for Watkins Glen. I have driven it twice at High Plains to shake it out and had no issues.

We leave on Sunday for Watkins Glen/Cornell Freshman move-in. It's a 1700 mile drive. Gonna split into three days on the way out. My daughter is going to do the drive with me. Glad to have the company. Looking forward to the first big trailer trip with the diesel truck.

I've booked three separate 2-day track events for 6 potential days on the track. I'm concerned the weather is looking iffy for the first event on Wed/Thurs next week. We'll see.

If things go well at WGI, I will have new DH with me. I would love to put them on and go for some hot laps. But they'll only go on if the weather is good and I'm feeling good about how well I've learned the track.

Really looking forward to it!
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