do88: Full Cooling Kit review and install notes

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

Bumping this thread up as I'm tired of getting 3-4 laps and then having reduced rev limit. Seems like the concensus is do the full do88 kit and never have temp issues after that.

Has anyone done the do88 kit and *had* issues with high temps? Any of the Texas/Arizona/SoCal guys want to chime in? Preferably someone who is on slicks and turning properly fast laps?

Yup, I am in the same boat. Haven’t spent the money yet but I plan to start with just the oil cooler soon and see if it helps.
The diverter might be something I need to look into as well it sounds like

[Not Sure]

has anyone weighed the D088 kit against the OEM parts? i presume the larger coolers add weight, but maybe it's not significant.

[0EMPLUS]

Originally Posted by LastMCar

Epic Diverter Valve will solve oil temp issues. No need for additional cooling upgrades. I have no issues at peak temps in Vegas summer with FI.

So did you change the thermostat also? And if so which one?

[LastMCar]

Start with the oil diverter valve. I tried several cooling mods before the valve was released for sale, this is the most effective tool for reducing oil temps. It’s $100. Why not start here. There are a couple threads from a few years ago regarding the effectiveness of aftermarket cooling upgrades. Most saw nominal impact in temperature recovery time only.

[Jeef]

how about all the team schirmer cars running around the ring? Can they get by without do88 cooling upgrades?

[LastMCar]

Originally Posted by Jeef

how about all the team schirmer cars running around the ring? Can they get by without do88 cooling upgrades?

Can a fully GT prepped race car that has been modified so drastically it is retitled as a Schirmer Vehicle get by...? Who knows, who cares. Horrible comparison.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by LastMCar

Can a fully GT prepped race car that has been modified so drastically it is retitled as a Schirmer Vehicle get by...? Who knows, who cares. Horrible comparison.

Further, is the Ring an appropriate comp to our shorter tracks stateside? Faster average speeds should allow more effective cooling? That and Germany is generally cooler on average, granted the US geographically is huge so not a viable comparison.

[Jeef]

who knows? I care!

I am not comparing. I simply asked if the cooling was needed for those Schirmer vehicles.

Any one can build/modify a car and label it something else. Why does that matter? I can build highly modified m3's and call them Jeef vehicles.

Dr Lane - so you are saying, here in the hotter slower states upgrading the coolers and not just oil diverter valve/thermostat would help/be beneficial?

Have a buddy in California that runs do88 for his track duty m3. He has nothing but good things to say and it gets pretty hot over here.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by Jeef

who knows? I care!

I am not comparing. I simply asked if the cooling was needed for those Schirmer vehicles.

Any one can build/modify a car and label it something else. Why does that matter? I can build highly modified m3's and call them Jeef vehicles.

Dr Lane - so you are saying, here in the hotter slower states upgrading the coolers and not just oil diverter valve/thermostat would help/be beneficial?

Have a buddy in California that runs do88 for his track duty m3. He has nothing but good things to say and it gets pretty hot over here.

I run in CO, very dry air and the temps at the track the last four evenings were >95 degrees. DO88 oil cooler, supercharged, 6MT and RR slicks (but no aero). Generally the car hovers around 270s oil temp and occasionally goes into limp mode. A single cool down lap will return the car to 230s. Yes I believer the DO88 oil cooler is very helpful and adds an additional quart of volume. Can't speak for the other coolers.

Yes I'm suggesting the Ring isn't a suitable comparison. The average speed on that track is such that I would anticipate better cooling performance even on stock components. Likely doesn't apply to the DTC cooler though. But I have no idea... was just a thought.

[ppatel14]

Bumping this up since I just ordered the do88 oil cooler during Black Friday and will be installing it soon.

The instructions say to reuse the old O-rings but should we replace it since we're in there and introducing a new mating surface? Need 2 O-rings.

https://www.do88.se/bilder/artiklar/pdf/OC-100.pdf

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0434 Part #7

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...al-17222284079

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by ppatel14

Bumping this up since I just ordered the do88 oil cooler during Black Friday and will be installing it soon.

The instructions say to reuse the old O-rings but should we replace it since we're in there and introducing a new mating surface? Need 2 O-rings.

https://www.do88.se/bilder/artiklar/pdf/OC-100.pdf

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0434 Part #7

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...al-17222284079

It's cheap enough to use new ones. I planned on ordering a pair.

[ppatel14]

Torque specs for the hex nut/bolt that attaches the oil lines to the oil cooler is 24Nm or 18 ft lbs.
Torque specs for the torx screw that goes through the grommet for attaching oil cooler is < 20 ft lbs. The other end is open and goes through a built in nut within the plastic shroud.

On my do88 oil cooler, one of the bolts that attaches the oil lines to the oil cooler just kept spinning. I backed it out and noticed the helicoil started coming out a little. I tried a M8 x 1.25 tap to reinsert it a little but wouldn't budge easily so I stopped. Ended up getting longer 16mm bolts and used blue thread locker to keep it place. It kept spinning the second time but left it as is. Hopefully no oil leaks.

Originally Posted by ///M3 Gusta

Yes, the 6MT has the same transmission cooler as the DCT cars, just 1/2 of it is covered with an aluminum plate.

Pretty easy to remove by taking the 3 screws off the shroud and bending back the aluminum tabs to take off the plate. From what I read elsewhere, I thought I needed to dremel it out.

[kyrix1st]

Why do you think the shroud is smaller from the factory?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by kyrix1st

Why do you think the shroud is smaller from the factory?

I think the 6mt is more efficient than the dct, so it requires less cooling. It was cheaper to spec a single radiator size and then cover it with that plate

Note the f8x 6mt was more efficient still and removed its cooling circuit altogether

[Ximian]

I’ve got a weird issue for the oil cooler install. I replaced that plastic piece behind the mounting point but the T45 bolt keeps going past so it’s not secure the passenger side. Any tips? Do I need to modify the plastic cover behind the oil cooler?

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by Ximian

I've got a weird issue for the oil cooler install. I replaced that plastic piece behind the mounting point but the T45 bolt keeps going past so it's not secure the passenger side. Any tips? Do I need to modify the plastic cover behind the oil cooler?

Don't tighten so aggressively or add a washer to prevent the head from squeezing through the rubber. I think I noticed the same issue.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Don't tighten so aggressively or add a washer to prevent the head from squeezing through the rubber. I think I noticed the same issue.

Without tightening it all the way, it stays pretty loose. I’ll try adding washers.

The other side is just fine.

[IMG]

Originally Posted by Ximian

I've got a weird issue for the oil cooler install. I replaced that plastic piece behind the mounting point but the T45 bolt keeps going past so it's not secure the passenger side. Any tips? Do I need to modify the plastic cover behind the oil cooler?

You are missing a sleeved washer that goes in the grommet before putting the screw through.
You should have 3 of that sleeved washer. 2 on the passenger side and 1 on the driver side.

Part #6

17 21 7 559 122

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by IMG

You are missing a sleeved washer that goes in the grommet before putting the screw through.
You should have 3 of that sleeved washer. 2 on the passenger side and 1 on the driver side.

Part #6

17 21 7 559 122

That's exactly the piece I was missing. I fell out and rolled further under the car when I was transferring the rubber pieces. Fits perfectly now.

One of the oil line bolts rolled somewhere and I can't find it so a quick trip to the hardware store until I find something else I'm missing.

[dntouch]

With the do88 oil cooler installed what would you say the total amount of engine oil capacity is now?

Is another 1/3 or 1/2 quart needed over stock?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by dntouch

With the do88 oil cooler installed what would you say the total amount of engine oil capacity is now?

Is another 1/3 or 1/2 quart needed over stock?

A similar amount. I first put 8.5qt in, then see where it's at and add more as needed

[Exclusivs]

Another awesome DIY guide from SYT_Shadow


...but where's the Power Steering cooler part!

(Yes, not much info Im realizing)