Official Harrop TVS1740 Supercharger Thread

[erics02wrx]

Originally Posted by drwankel

I am preparing to go sort my Harrop harness out. My current connections are wrapped in electrical tape, and I have doubts they are soldered. I didn't have tape to replace it if once removed and old electrical tape never goes back on the same way, so I haven't physically seen it yet. My thought is if you didn't take the effort to install heat shrink, you probably didn't solder it either. I have new tape coming tomorrow.

I've been checking the install manual- and I have a couple of questions about the soldering process.

The manual explicitly states to disconnect the connector and de-pin the terminal from the connector for each wire you are working on. I understand the reasoning for disconnecting the connector- you don't want to heat up whatever the connector is connected to.

However, when soldering other things, I haven't gone as far as to de-pin the terminal from the connector on the wire I was soldering, and never really had an issue. Perhaps I should have? I suppose they are worried about the heat from soldering melting the inside of the connector? Or maybe they are just doing that so you can solder without a cut wire cut, and de-pinning is necessary to get the heat shrink on?

My questions are:

Is everybody going all the way with de-pinning the terminals from the connectors before soldering or is this Harrop being extra safe in the instructions? If de-pinning the connectors is not there to protect the connector itself during soldering, and my wire is already cut- then presumably I could skip de-pinning all together.

And lastly if de-pinning the terminals is absolutely the way to go can anybody share some tips/tricks/tools for de-pinning the connectors? (DME and relay) I know the general process, release some secret tab and then the terminal will pull out. Often there is a secret trick or tool required to release the retainer, and I'd like to be prepared before I start.

I just got done installing the wiring for my Harrop SC…

No need to de-pin or cut wires. Use a self adjusting automatic wire striper to cut and spread the wire sheathing on the DME/relay wire exposing the bare wire underneath, then wrap new tap wire around the exposed DME/relay wire, solder and wrap with cloth electrical tape. I have used this process for 20 years without fail. I love heat shrink but de-pinning is not easy for someone that doesn’t have the proper tools and hasn’t done it before, it’s not worth the chance of damaging the pins or connector in my opinion.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by erics02wrx

I just got done installing the wiring for my Harrop SC…

No need to de-pin or cut wires. Use a self adjusting automatic wire striper to cut and spread the wire sheathing on the DME/relay wire exposing the bare wire underneath, then wrap new tap wire around the exposed DME/relay wire, solder and wrap with cloth electrical tape. I have used this process for 20 years without fail. I love heat shrink but de-pinning is not easy for someone that doesn’t have the proper tools and hasn’t done it before, it’s not worth the chance of damaging the pins or connector in my opinion.

Did you remove the connectors or solder with them still connected to the DME?

Also thanks everyone for the clarification on the depinning. I never had done that before- and was starting to wonder if I should have been doing it all along.

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by drwankel

Did you remove the connectors or solder with them still connected to the DME?

Also thanks everyone for the clarification on the depinning. I never had done that before- and was starting to wonder if I should have been doing it all along.

I disconnected the adapter from the ecu before doing this. It's not necessarily required but allows you to check and double check that you're splicing into the right wire. Also creates a little more room to work.

[erics02wrx]

Originally Posted by CamasM3e93

I disconnected the adapter from the ecu before doing this. It's not necessarily required but allows you to check and double check that you're splicing into the right wire. Also creates a little more room to work.

+1 ^

[DukeofAlexandria]

Depin it….best and easiest way to ensure a solid connection with heat shrink and soldered joint.

-Duke

[BPMSport]

For what it's worth, I usually don't depin those two although I always depin the two wires going to the DME as those are a cakewalk to remove. i've never had a connection fail or be intermittent. I think my kit has been on for nearly 9 years at this point.

[Tut4u2]

As others have mentioned, depinning could damage the retaining clip if not done properly. To avoid that potential headache, I used one of the self-adjusting wire strippers and stripped all the wires in a location that gave me wire on either end to re-solder just incase I frayed them or f'd it up in anyways. Once you strip them, its a straight forward process. I used electric tape to cover the connection then wrapped everything up with Tesa 51006 tape for an OEM look/finish.

[drwankel]

Got it all resolved today. The connections ended up being soldered, so I just re-wrapped in electrical tape.

There were two mistakes in routing that caused all of the problems.

Both the ground wire and the intercooler pump cable were routed along the edge of the engine bay, and then routed to where they needed to go. Ground was connected to the jumper cable ground post, so its an excellent ground. The problem is the harness for each of these is about 4 inches too short to be run this way. The end result is it will pull the relays and fuses out the side of the DME box.

For the ground wire, I spliced an extension into the wire, and it works perfectly now. spammysammich showed up with his soldering iron and did the soldering for the extension. Was a big help as the soldering iron I ordered was delayed in shipping. I was anticipating having to do them all today, but knowing the other connections were soldered was great.

For the intercooler pump, I disconnected and re-routed the line correctly as described in the harrop manual, and now it can exit the DME box correctly.

The one trick that was helpful was this picture from BPMSport . I was wondering when I fixed the routing issues, where do I actually put the fuses and relay? My DME box was basically all full, and as detailed as the harrop manual is,
it does not tell you what to do with the harrop relay and fuses.

In the photo I noticed that Mike had routed the relay and fuses under the harrop control module. Tried it today and it works great. I didn't think there was enough room under the Harrop control module to do that, but it worked. Harrop should add that to the manual.

I wish my DME box was as clean as this. None the less, it is now functional, and the lid is back on it for a long time hopefully.

[BPMSport]

Glad that picture helped you! I know my back had had better days after I finished the wiring on that one

[BPMSport]

Reaching out to all on the waiting list tomorrow to sort out the deposit and get orders officially in the system. 7 or 8 kits will be available. Anyone interested in obtaining a kit please contact us ASAP, those on the waiting list will forfeit their spot if not committed. ETA on these kits is September 2022, so we're 2-3 months ahead of the originally discussed availability schedule. Thanks everyone!

[M3ZCPNYC]

Can anyone tell me where there oil temp needle is at after a spirit drive on a hot day? I'm trying to see if I need to upgrade my oil cooler with this kit.

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by M3ZCPNYC

Can anyone tell me where there oil temp needle is at after a spirit drive on a hot day? I'm trying to see if I need to upgrade my oil cooler with this kit.

It depends if you are going to track the vehicle. If you daily and your spirited driving keeps your oil temps reliably 225 and lower (center needle is 210), probably no need. The do88 oil cooler is the one that works with the Harrop intercooler. I upgraded my radiator to the CSF this spring. My IATs run reliably 10-15 degrees cooler but the oil temps are pretty much unchanged. Since I don't track the car with prolonged periods of high rpms no need in my case for the oil cooler.

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by M3ZCPNYC

Can anyone tell me where there oil temp needle is at after a spirit drive on a hot day? I'm trying to see if I need to upgrade my oil cooler with this kit.

On days above 90F, mine reads about a needles width above the 210F dash, but not quite as high as Mr. Benvo's BPMSport website photo.. (who also has a Harrop installed).. I use the OEM 10W60 Castrol TWS synthetic motor oil. It has been my experience that lower than OEM oil viscosity plays a role with indicated higher oil temps.
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https://www.bpmsport.com/services/co...-retrofit.html
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From the Manual
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[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by DrFerry

On days above 90F, mine reads about a needles width above the 210F dash, but not quite as high as Mr. Benvo's BPMSport website photo.. (who also has a Harrop installed).. I use the OEM 10W60 Castrol TWS synthetic motor oil. I has been my experience that lower than OEM oil viscosity plays a role with indicated higher oil temps.
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[IMG]https://www.bpmsport.com/media/catal.../img_1717a.jpg[/IMG]
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https://www.bpmsport.com/services/co...-retrofit.html
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This picture of is a 335 with an M3 cluster. You can see the redline is limited as it's an N54 engine. Just because there is a picture on our site doesn't mean it's of our Harrop M3 car

Nonetheless, I wouldn't have a cause for concern to see the pictured temp after some spirited driving on a very hot day.

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by BPMSport

This picture of is a 335 with an M3 cluster. You can see the redline is limited as it's an N54 engine. Just because there is a picture on our site doesn't mean it's of our Harrop M3 car Nonetheless, I wouldn't have a cause for concern to see the pictured temp after some spirited driving on a very hot day.

Sorry. Bad assumption on my part. The dynamic RPM redline on my S65 M3 looks similar at cold start up, but the website photo is of a car at operating temperature. It never occurred to me the photo was an S65 rev counter (dash) in a 335i.. I'll go back in my hole now.

[Gossypiboma]

Originally Posted by DrFerry

On days above 90F, mine reads about a needles width above the 210F dash, but not quite as high as Mr. Benvo's BPMSport website photo.. (who also has a Harrop installed).. I use the OEM 10W60 Castrol TWS synthetic motor oil. I has been my experience that lower than OEM oil viscosity plays a role with indicated higher oil temps.

Above 210 on a hot day is normal.

[M3ZCPNYC]

I'm closer to 230, it was about 95 degrees and humid and I was ripping across the highway

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by M3ZCPNYC

I'm closer to 230, it was about 95 degrees and humid and I was ripping across the highway

That's totally fine. Check your coolant temperature - it's often overlooked how a tired cooling system adversely affects oil temp. Highway driving when hot and humid will significantly raise oil temp as a function of RPM alone.

[BPMSport]

Last chance to get a kit before the end of the year! Shoot us a message ASAP if interested. Thanks all!

[BPMSport]

We were just informed by Harrop that the price of the kit is raising again due to production cost increases. This is the last chance we can offer anyone the existing price.

The cutoff for avoiding the price increase is 8/12/2022.

https://www.bpmsport.com/e9x-harrop-...arger-kit.html

Let us know if you have any questions.

[Acap14]

Originally Posted by BPMSport

We were just informed by Harrop that the price of the kit is raising again due to production cost increases. This is the last chance we can offer anyone the existing price. Also, higher output versions will only be available to existing customers.

The cutoff for avoiding the price increase is 8/12/2022.

https://www.bpmsport.com/e9x-harrop-...arger-kit.html

Let us know if you have any questions.

Hello Mike.

[M3ZCPNYC]

Which oil do you recommend, I'm due and I'm not sure to go with