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      02-20-2021, 05:01 PM   #89
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Yes.
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      02-21-2021, 06:38 PM   #90
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pbonsalb Thanks alot for info and confirmation.

Now, allow me to go further on questions.

How am I gonna vent (or bleed) the system?
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      02-21-2021, 06:42 PM   #91
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I mean,

I'm gonna get all the coolant off the lines. Air is coming into all of it.

All the coolant I put in after that will go down forcing the air to leave upwards. In the radiator side, it will leave by the expansion tank and the vent valve.

But in the engine headers side, there will be no way for the air to leave.

I'm aware that the coolant from headers goes directly to the cabin heater core, isolated by a shutoff valve that opens when I turn on the heater.

On several cars, you can just disconnect the heater coolant supply hose and let the air from the engine header come out by there.

Can I do that in the S65?
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      02-21-2021, 06:43 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post
pbonsalb Thanks alot for info and confirmation.

Now, allow me to go further on questions.

How am I gonna vent (or bleed) the system?
Its a self bleeding system. Open the cap, run the car, let the air bleed out and fill as needed.
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      02-21-2021, 06:49 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gossypiboma View Post
Its a self bleeding system. Open the cap, run the car, let the air bleed out and fill as needed.
Nicely observed. I saw that on TIS, but the same topic says that the flush could be done draining the coolant only by the radiator. Doesn't mention engine block (which I think is only doing half the job, not enough).

As I'm doing engine block too, I feel like the self bleeding mechanism may not work.
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      02-21-2021, 09:38 PM   #94
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Right, it’s a high mount tank, above the highest level in the cooling system, and will self bleed. I bled this way twice, once when changing to Evans after doing the rod bearings and using the block drains. Works fine, whether the system is totally empty or partially empty when refilled. Remember to run the heater to be access the core and hoses.
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      02-21-2021, 10:44 PM   #95
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Nice, thanks guys.

Let's say I want to put some vacuum inside the system before filling. -30cmHg.

The hoses may collapse a little, but no damage, right?

Is there a reason for not doing that?
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      02-22-2021, 07:10 AM   #96
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I don’t know the answer to that but think the vacuum would not hurt. If you can pressurize the hoses to 29 psi, you should be able to vacuum them to -30cmHg. Like you wrote, big ones could suck in.
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      02-23-2021, 03:06 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodust View Post
About to do my coolant and a buddy of mine who's an ex-BMW tech recommended replacing the whole petcock (white thing) along with the blue screw. His point (and it makes sense) is that it's just plastic and it's sitting in boiling water constantly for years. Germany isn't exactly known for the best plastics anyway. It's such a cheap part (~$10) and it's just good preventative maintenance. He also recommends replacing the bleed screw, or at least the o-ring on it.
I realize that the above post was made a few years back but curious as none seem to have commented on it.

Has anyone done this or have an opinion?

Thanks!
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      04-12-2021, 06:49 PM   #98
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Does anyone know the torque values for the two engine block drain plugs+crush washers?
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      04-12-2021, 11:44 PM   #99
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Did not follow any torque value. Just good and tight. After filling coolant, one side was dripping a little, so I torqued it up a little more, e no problems after.
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      02-20-2022, 12:47 PM   #100
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Anybody have a part number or place to buy the Aluminium crush washers for the Engine Block Drain Screws (one for each bank)? I used a bit of RTV sealant and the original crush washers to make sure it doesn't leak but would like to do the job properly next time. Tightening torque for the Engine Block Drain screws would be useful too.
Thanks all
Aluminium is the English spelling ahah

The measurements I took of the Crush Washer:
10.0mm Internal diameter
13.6mm Outer diameter
0.8mm thick

Last edited by Harryc9; 02-20-2022 at 02:11 PM..
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      10-22-2022, 10:24 AM   #101
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Block drain plug BMW part # 07119904392


Block drain plug crush washer BMW part # 07119963200


Tightening Torque: Must replace crush washer, then 25NM (19 ft lbs)
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Last edited by Theodore; 10-22-2022 at 10:33 AM..
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      10-30-2022, 04:07 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theodore View Post
Block drain plug BMW part # 07119904392


Block drain plug crush washer BMW part # 07119963200


Tightening Torque: Must replace crush washer, then 25NM (19 ft lbs)
Thanks very much. Thought I'd never get the part numbers.
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      10-24-2023, 09:02 AM   #103
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Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I plan on doing this next week. On my e93 328, after filling the cooling system, you turn the accessories on in the car, hold the gas pedal down for 30 seconds and the water pump will run about a 10-15min cycle to bleed all the aur out of the system. Is that not an option on the S65?
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      10-25-2023, 12:00 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineE93 View Post
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I plan on doing this next week. On my e93 328, after filling the cooling system, you turn the accessories on in the car, hold the gas pedal down for 30 seconds and the water pump will run about a 10-15min cycle to bleed all the air out of the system. Is that not an option on the S65?
The 328 has an electric drive water pump, the S65 has a mechanically driven water pump so you have to run the engine to circulate the coolant through the system.
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      10-25-2023, 09:06 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineE93 View Post
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I plan on doing this next week. On my e93 328, after filling the cooling system, you turn the accessories on in the car, hold the gas pedal down for 30 seconds and the water pump will run about a 10-15min cycle to bleed all the aur out of the system. Is that not an option on the S65?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theodore View Post
The 328 has an electric drive water pump, the S65 has a mechanically driven water pump so you have to run the engine to circulate the coolant through the system.
do that without adding too much thermal load to the car and you'll be fine. after letting it idle for some minutes, opening and closing the vent/bleeding "bolt" at the top of the expansion tank, turn it off, let it cool down, refill the expansion tank.

go for a ride, take a bottle of diluted coolant. if the level drops too much, it will throw a warning on the dash. if it doesn't, keep checking level after cooling down, until it stops to drop.
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