Help reading tire treadware

[Dreamer99]

Enclosed is a picture of front and rear AD08R tires from the same side. The other side of the car is identical. I was trying to run about 36psi hot. Front/rear camber is -2.2 & -1.9. As you can see the outside edge of the tires angle off a bit. Is this what I should be looking for or what to do to adjust?

Thanks for your input in advance.

[MSY]

Not quite enough camber there. -2.6 to -2.8 for those tires is orobably dead on for front. Your rear is probably fine in 1.8 to 2 range. I would run 2.6 front and 1.9 with tire pressures hitting 34 to 35 degrees hot.

Try a pyrometer to give you more data akthough many disregard the benefits ive always found it assisted me dialing in camber and pressure

[Dreamer99]

The car is driven daily as well so trying to find a balance camber for both. Thought -2.2 up front would help on the track and be acceptable for wear on the street.

[MSY]

-2.6 on street is totally fine especially with zero toe. I have driven like that for years when i used an m3 daily.

[CorruptCommie]

Originally Posted by MSY

-2.6 on street is totally fine especially with zero toe. I have driven like that for years when i used an m3 daily.

I daily'ed an E46 with -3.5 and zero toe. OP you'll be fine.

[dparm]

Agree that you can probably dial in a little bit more camber.

[Dreamer99]

So where the tire tread angles off at the outside edge is just normal wear then. Adding a bit more negative camber will not change this but if I lower the tire pressure slightly would it produce a better contact patch to the outside?

[BayE30]

it looks like the outside edge angling off that you are seeing is actually the shape of the tire from the factory, and the inside flat tread you are seeing is actually accelerated wear on the inside tread blocks that have worn flat.

i would say that if this is seeing more DD duty, you have too much camber for the street...

[CorruptCommie]

Nah, you can never have too much camber for the streets. Floss on em OP.

[MSY]

It is clearly outer edge rounding not inner tread pattern rpunded. The squared off edge is the normal tread angle ofthe tire and in the above its on the innee side. Def you need more camber

[BayE30]

get a tread depth gauge and put it on the inner and outer tread, it definately look way more worn on the inside. i looked at file photos of this tire and it has a round edge new...

[roastbeef]

if the tire on the right is the front, i think you're running too high of psi hot. center of the tires look decently seasoned, and some of the outside tread looks less worn (on the inside and outside).

its hard to judge with pics because tread depth is sometimes hard to see with shadows they create. you're camber wear ring seems to be a bit inboard, but i'm not familiar with those tires or where they like to be. i'd maybe drop them 4psi, then work your way back up 1psi at a time and see if you can find a sweet spot.

also, how does the car feel? ok for a lap or two, then exit understeer once up to temp?

[MSY]

You can see the wheel so you can tell its the outside edge and concur oressires a bit high as center is also bit worn

[dparm]

Originally Posted by SFCM3

get a tread depth gauge and put it on the inner and outer tread, it definately look way more worn on the inside. i looked at file photos of this tire and it has a round edge new...

I would agree that one of those cheap gauges is a must-have for checking tire wear. I keep a running log of tread depth on the inside, center, and outside for each tire.

[rhyary]

Here is -2.9 camber and 40psi hot.
I found that below 40psi the center stays too cold.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Here is -2.9 camber and 40psi hot.
I found that below 40psi the center stays too cold.

Yikes, that's still a lot of uneven wear.

[Dreamer99]

I took a look at my two centre ribs and the one closer to the outside of the tires is definitely worn down lower than the tread blocks on the inside and outside. So this is too much pressure and the middle is wearing the most?

On another note, you guys with DCT what do you do when you come into the pits after your session. N, then turn off car and the transmission gets pinned so it won't roll (no hand brake). The reason I ask is it looks like I have some pad melt on my rear rotors.

[MSY]

Yikes!!!! No handbrake after track. That hurts.

[MSY]

And yes too much pressure and not enough negative camber

[Dreamer99]

Originally Posted by MSY

Yikes!!!! No handbrake after track. That hurts.

I didn't use the hand brake but have the deposits in one area so was wondering how

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by Dreamer99

I didn't use the hand brake but have the deposits in one area so was wondering how

Handbrake won't leave deposits but may do nasty stuff to shoes and hubs. Track driving will cause pad deposits. Depending on material may or may not cause issues. I have always run pagid and never switch compounds. I have no issues. I leave car in gear when it's turned off.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Dreamer99

I took a look at my two centre ribs and the one closer to the outside of the tires is definitely worn down lower than the tread blocks on the inside and outside. So this is too much pressure and the middle is wearing the most?

On another note, you guys with DCT what do you do when you come into the pits after your session. N, then turn off car and the transmission gets pinned so it won't roll (no hand brake). The reason I ask is it looks like I have some pad melt on my rear rotors.

You can sort of coast in real slow and just tap the brakes to get it to stop. Then neutral and off.