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      02-05-2024, 07:15 PM   #1
Jaytsnyder68
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Right Low Beam Malfunction - ONLY on Auto

I have searched and searched for "Low beam malfunction only on auto" but have found nothing, thus my first post.

This is just odd. I get a "Right low beam malfunction" but ONLY when my headlight switch is set to "auto". This is VERY frustrating as I always have it set to "auto" so I can use the adaptive headlights. Also, I can sit for days in the car with it set to "auto" and the low beam NEVER goes out. It only goes out when I'm driving (car is moving), then it keeps going off and on and I finally get the "Right low beam malfunction". Also, when I get the "Right low beam malfunction", I can move the headlight switch from "auto" to the regular "on" position and the light will come back on EVERY time and remove the malfunction warning.

Note that I do have after market LEDs as my low/high beams. My garage down the street thinks this "might" be the issue. However, I've had the LEDs in for over a year and no problems.

I thought maybe a loose connection, BUT if that was the case, wouldn't it also go out when I just have the switch set to "on"?

The ONLY good news I can come up with is it's "probably" not the ballast since it works fine when switched to "on"?

If someone who knows a lot more than me thinks it's just a bulb issue, then I guess that's good news too...though changing the bulbs in this car is a pain, so I'll still have to pay a garage to do it, but they will install the bulbs I supply.

Any help would be greatly appreciated because I give up.
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      02-05-2024, 08:53 PM   #2
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Swap the LEDs between left and right, and see what happens? That would at least prove/disprove the garage down the street
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      02-06-2024, 08:29 AM   #3
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Thanks, Pedro2U. I would if I had the capacity. I know how to swap the bulbs. Not easy. Wheel turned out or completely removed. Remove wheel well cover to access the bulb. I do not have the tools or the strength due to health reasons. Even a bulb swap as a process of elimination will have to be done at the garage...For $250 plus.

But...I realize that's the route I may have to take VS taking it to the dealer. I may purchase low cost ($30) HID D1S 6,000K bulbs (Instead of LED) and ask the garage to put those in and take a chance.
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      02-06-2024, 08:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaytsnyder68 View Post
Thanks, Pedro2U. I would if I had the capacity. I know how to swap the bulbs. Not easy. Wheel turned out or completely removed. Remove wheel well cover to access the bulb. I do not have the tools or the strength due to health reasons. Even a bulb swap as a process of elimination will have to be done at the garage...For $250 plus.

But...I realize that's the route I may have to take VS taking it to the dealer. I may purchase low cost ($30) HID D1S 6,000K bulbs (Instead of LED) and ask the garage to put those in and take a chance.
No need to do all of this i.e. removing the wheel and inner fender liner. Just remove the bulb inspection port cover to replace the headlamp bulb(s). Watch this video linked below to understand how the headlamp bulbs can be accessed more easily.
.

.
When the headlight switch is in the "A" position (Adaptive), and under certain conditions such as cornering, an extra cornering bulb is illuminated and the headlight reflectors "may" even rotate slightly depending upon steering angle and speed. Though I'm uncertain about this functionality. There's also a possibility that a loose connection, cracked wire, or bad insulation have become disturbed due to high heat from some LED bulbs. Some types of LEDs (the cheaper ones without a heat sink) have been shown to actually decay (melt) and degrade the bulb loom wiring insulation. Search the forums for information on this subject. Here's an extract from the E9X M3 manual.
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      02-06-2024, 09:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
No need to do all of this i.e. removing the wheel and inner fender liner. Just remove the bulb inspection port cover to replace the headlamp bulb(s).
The cover screws are hard to access without taking the wheel liner off imo.
Taking off the wheel liner takes like 2 minutes, rather than cursing for 10+ trying to get your hands to the screws in a tight area.

FYI that video is the angle eye bulbs, not the HID low beam bulb.

Yea it sucks, but once you do it a few times you get faster at it.
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      02-06-2024, 09:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
The cover screws are hard to access without taking the wheel liner off imo.
Taking off the wheel liner takes like 2 minutes, rather than cursing for 10+ trying to get your hands to the screws in a tight area.

Yea it sucks, but once you do it a few times you get faster at it.
So it’s a matter of preference. I’d rather not jack up the car, remove the wheel and remove the liner if I don’t have to. I replaced my H8 bulbs with the LUX 180 LEDs using the inspection bulb access port method. Here’s another video showing exactly what I did to replace the H8 bulbs without removing the fender liner. Perhaps I’m missing something and there are other bulbs - depending upon how the car is optioned - but this method works for me without wheel or fender removal - though I’ll admit having small hands probably helps.
.
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Last edited by DrFerry; 02-06-2024 at 09:56 AM..
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      02-06-2024, 09:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
So it’s a matter of preference. I’d rather not jack up the car, remove the wheel and remove the liner if I don’t have to. I replaced my H8 bulbs with the LUX 180 LEDs using the inspection bulb access port method. Here’s another video showing exactly what I did to replace the H8 bulbs without removing the fender liner. Perhaps I’m missing something and there are other bulbs - depending upon how the car is optioned - but this method works for me without wheel or fender removal - though I’ll admit having small hands probably helps.
.

again we are referring to D1S HID low beam bulbs.

You keep showing H8 Angel eye bulbs.


There is no way to change the HID bulbs from under the hood.
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      02-06-2024, 10:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
again we are referring to D1S HID low beam bulbs.

You keep showing H8 Angel eye bulbs.


There is no way to change the HID bulbs from under the hood.
Sorry. I see what you mean now. There are other headlamp bulbs which I've never replaced in 138K miles i.e. the HID bulbs. I sit corrected. You've taught me something today. Thank you for your patience.
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      02-06-2024, 05:34 PM   #9
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DrFerry and Tdott: Thanks for all the help. The info on the heat from the LEDs makes me nervous. Just returned from a drive and it did it yet again. I have made up my mind and am going to go back to HID bulbs...though I may get a cool white color 6000. I do not like the yellow tint of the regular 4300 bulbs. If that doesn't work then I know it's more serious, and will require the dealer.
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      02-06-2024, 05:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
again we are referring to D1S HID low beam bulbs.

You keep showing H8 Angel eye bulbs.


There is no way to change the HID bulbs from under the hood.
..and yes...Tdott's spot on. It's the D1S bulb (#2 in the realoem shot) and you've got to go through the back/wheel well. Also, to be honest...I probably "could" do it. If I change my own oil...which I do...I could do this

Thanks again. I really appreciate others always willing to provide feedback on these Bimmer forums.
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      02-08-2024, 10:19 AM   #11
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Just throwing this out there, though I doubt this is the issue, could it possibly be the headlight switch control unit itself?
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      02-10-2024, 01:22 PM   #12
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PACarGuy:

Yes! I have thought that maybe it's the headlight switch itself...which would be easier to fix than the HID bulb in my opinion.

I have purchased new bulbs, but I just don't think that's the problem. If the bulb was the problem, then they would go out when I have the headlight switch to the regular "on" position too, and they NEVER go out on that setting. ONLY when switched to "auto".

SO frustrating.

If the new bulb still goes out when set to "auto", then my next step might be a new switch, which I could replace. Not hard - just a plastic pry tool, which I have.

IF that doesn't work, I will take it to the dealer.
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      02-10-2024, 05:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
So it’s a matter of preference. I’d rather not jack up the car, remove the wheel and remove the liner if I don’t have to. I replaced my H8 bulbs with the LUX 180 LEDs using the inspection bulb access port method. Here’s another video showing exactly what I did to replace the H8 bulbs without removing the fender liner. Perhaps I’m missing something and there are other bulbs - depending upon how the car is optioned - but this method works for me without wheel or fender removal - though I’ll admit having small hands probably helps.
.
Thanks for inspiring me to finally install those Lux angel eyes I have in the garage.

Mike
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      02-18-2024, 11:04 PM   #14
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All: Just another post to follow-up on my original post....

I narrowed it down even further on a drive home tonight. As I explained, the passenger side low beam never goes out when I have the switch set to the normal "On" position, only when it's switched to "auto"...and tonight I discovered exactly when/why the bulb goes out when in the "auto" position...

It goes out when I turn left. So it's related to the adaptive/cornering headlights, and when I turn the steering wheel back straight again, the headlight comes on again.

The good news - I can probably replicate the problem for a Tech. The bad news - probably not the bulb, which would be the easiest fix.

Probably something more complicated like adaptive headlights. Because it only happens when adaptive headlights are on, and turning left always triggers it.

Either way, I am still going to change my DS1 bulbs from LED back to HID, that may be confusing the headlights as well.
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      02-19-2024, 02:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaytsnyder68 View Post
All: Just another post to follow-up on my original post.... I narrowed it down even further on a drive home tonight. As I explained, the passenger side low beam never goes out when I have the switch set to the normal "On" position, only when it's switched to "auto"...and tonight I discovered exactly when/why the bulb goes out when in the "auto" position... It goes out when I turn left. So it's related to the adaptive/cornering headlights, and when I turn the steering wheel back straight again, the headlight comes on again. The good news - I can probably replicate the problem for a Tech. The bad news - probably not the bulb, which would be the easiest fix. Probably something more complicated like adaptive headlights. Because it only happens when adaptive headlights are on, and turning left always triggers it. Either way, I am still going to change my DS1 bulbs from LED back to HID, that may be confusing the headlights as well.
This indicates even more so to me the problem may be cracked and decaying wiring loom insulation. In other words, bad wiring as reported in other headlight threads. The wiring insulation becomes degraded due to the intense heat of the HID bulbs, then the movement of the headlamp receptacle in Adaptive mode with steering input triggers a short circuit. Hence, the bulb goes out until steering back to the straight ahead position when the lamp receptacle cycles back.
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      02-19-2024, 07:41 PM   #16
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Thanks, DrFerry.

Just got home again after a drive at night, and it did it again exactly when I turned left. I turned the switch to the "on" position and it never went out again during the drive.

So not the bulb. Loose connection and/or wiring problem that triggers it on adaptive movement.

Tomorrow I'm having new D1S HID 6000K bulbs installed (Not at a BMW dealer) and will have them check the connection on the passenger side. I will keep the LED bulbs they remove for a later day, since I bet the passenger one is OK.

That may fix the issue if it was a loose connection and they tighten it up when they put the new bulbs in, but I'm NEVER that lucky. If it still does it tomorrow after a night test drive...a BMW service center is next.
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      02-20-2024, 03:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaytsnyder68 View Post
Thanks, DrFerry.

Just got home again after a drive at night, and it did it again exactly when I turned left. I turned the switch to the "on" position and it never went out again during the drive.

So not the bulb. Loose connection and/or wiring problem that triggers it on adaptive movement.

Tomorrow I'm having new D1S HID 6000K bulbs installed (Not at a BMW dealer) and will have them check the connection on the passenger side. I will keep the LED bulbs they remove for a later day, since I bet the passenger one is OK.

That may fix the issue if it was a loose connection and they tighten it up when they put the new bulbs in, but I'm NEVER that lucky. If it still does it tomorrow after a night test drive...a BMW service center is next.
Ask the new HID bulb installer to carefully check the wiring loom insulation for cracks and/or missing wiring insulation.
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