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      02-19-2020, 03:16 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scharbag View Post
What fresh mumbo jumbo is this?

Not sure where you got that info but you are dead wrong. Balance is only affected by material gain/loss or deformation. If that happens, you have big problems.

As for the tune - I do not know where to start...

:|
Material loss is inevitable.

When it wears unevenly is when the problems occur.
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      02-19-2020, 09:36 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpower603 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scharbag View Post
What fresh mumbo jumbo is this?

Not sure where you got that info but you are dead wrong. Balance is only affected by material gain/loss or deformation. If that happens, you have big problems.

As for the tune - I do not know where to start...

:|
Material loss is inevitable.

When it wears unevenly is when the problems occur.
What material loss is inevitable? Babbitt? Pistons? Rings? Crank material?

Proper hydrodynamic bearings do not wear enough to even consider it wear. Plus, they "wear" evenly. Bad hydrodynamic bearings will spin before the mass difference matters.

Pistons will "wear" evenly over time. Unless an injector sticks open... but given the rings are tough, this usually scores the bore, so it will not really affect balance.

Rings wear. But unless something is very wrong mechanically, they wear evenly across all holes. Nothing you do the the ECU will affect this.

If you bend, deform or wear the crank, your engine is broken. Period. And nothing you do to the ECU can affect that.

The rotating assembly in reciprocating engines dates back to the 1800s. They had the balance thing sorted long ago. Nothing about the S65 is special. Other than the fact BMW screwed the pooch on the rod bearing nominal clearance and tolerance. Oh, and rod side clearance is too tight. And it gets terrible gas mileage because it makes you want to drive it hard just to hear it sing.

Please convince us otherwise, with some facts. That would be great.

Cheers,
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      02-24-2020, 01:02 PM   #69
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I preferred he didn't so we can keep this thread on topic ..

Thanks for reporting back Richbot, Ngilbe36 & serranot.

bmwpower603
Could you not side track this thread with engine issue discussions? Feel free to start your own thread .
TIA
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      02-24-2020, 03:21 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
I preferred he didn't so we can keep this thread on topic ..

Thanks for reporting back Richbot, Ngilbe36 & serranot.

bmwpower603
Could you not side track this thread with engine issue discussions? Feel free to start your own thread .
TIA
Good point. Apologies for the distraction.

Changed mine 30,000KM ago. Have had a few oil reports since and they all looked good. Will be changing oil again soon and will send in another sample (bought a 6 pack) and see what it says. This oil change has been almost 100% city/spirited driving.

Some day, I may take a look at them again just to verify all is as expected with proper clearances.

Cheers,
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      02-26-2020, 02:39 PM   #71
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Cool , how long ago (time) did you change them?
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      02-26-2020, 03:48 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Cool , how long ago (time) did you change them?
2 years.
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      02-26-2020, 05:24 PM   #73
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A fair mileage you do then, what have the lead levels been at? Posted your oil reports anywhere?
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      02-26-2020, 08:42 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
A fair mileage you do then, what have the lead levels been at? Posted your oil reports anywhere?
Lead is 0 across the board since the change. Copper is 1-2.

We will see what this next sample gives me.

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      02-27-2020, 01:11 AM   #75
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Good to hear
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      03-04-2020, 11:46 AM   #76
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BE bearings 25k-ish miles and 120-ish track days. All the bearings look pretty good besides the bearing trashed by the failed main bearing.

Main bearing spun, full engine teardown here:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1698983

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      03-04-2020, 02:55 PM   #77
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Interesting & thanks for the pic & link, as you said, bar the ones by the failed mains, the RBs look pretty good .
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      03-04-2020, 05:04 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Interesting & thanks for the pic & link, as you said, bar the ones by the failed mains, the RBs look pretty good .
Yes, definitely

Somewhere on the planet there is a S65 that has a harder life that mine but it's not common
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      03-05-2020, 02:39 PM   #79
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Lol , ex-demo cars!
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      03-08-2020, 11:29 AM   #80
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Changed my rod bearings already 3 years ago on 109k km miliage. Now odometer shows 170k km... So Already 60k km I run BE Bearings and ARP bolts. All works perfect with Mobil 1 0-40 all the time.
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      03-08-2020, 09:39 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanK View Post
Changed my rod bearings already 3 years ago on 109k km miliage. Now odometer shows 170k km... So Already 60k km I run BE Bearings and ARP bolts. All works perfect with Mobil 1 0-40 all the time.
thanks for the info. how is the 0w40? do you use mobil 1 0w40? also what sort of climate do you live in? I am getting my bearing done this week and want to know what oil to get.
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      03-09-2020, 07:56 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrozenE92M3 View Post
thanks for the info. how is the 0w40? do you use mobil 1 0w40? also what sort of climate do you live in? I am getting my bearing done this week and want to know what oil to get.
Yes, Mobil 1 0-40 all the time. Changing each 6-7k km.
Winter around -5 - -10C
Summer around +20 - +25C
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      03-09-2020, 08:34 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanK View Post
Yes, Mobil 1 0-40 all the time. Changing each 6-7k km.
Winter around -5 - -10C
Summer around +20 - +25C
Curious mate, what made you decide for a lighter oil even with increased bearings?
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      03-09-2020, 10:35 AM   #84
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Curious mate, what made you decide for a lighter oil even with increased bearings?
I worry about main bearings as well)
Moreover - I run already 60k km... and my engine works good. Why I need use 10-60?

I have my humble opinion that 10-60 is need only on track/race mode when the temps are high. So, using like daily city car - 0-40 is good i guess)
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      03-09-2020, 10:50 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanK View Post
I worry about main bearings as well)
Moreover - I run already 60k km... and my engine works good. Why I need use 10-60?

I have my humble opinion that 10-60 is need only on track/race mode when the temps are high. So, using like daily city car - 0-40 is good i guess)
Cheers mate, got it. Again, I was simply curious. Using mine the same way, daily city car in Nordic climate. Replaced with increased shells (ACL) but decided to stay with 10w60 to maintain oil pressure/film. Not too worried over the mains as failure seems extremely rare. Time will tell I guess.
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      03-17-2020, 03:16 PM   #86
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BE bearings state that the increased clearances in their bearings is designed with 10w-60 in mind. From there website :-
Designed to address and fix the rod bearing clearance issue.
Designed for use with factory 10W60 weight oils.


So 5w/50 shouldn't be needed for the rod bearings, RomanK makes an interesting point about the main bearings, but as Helmsman says they are far less likely to fail.
Also, 50 grade oil will shear (wear) down to a 40 grade oil (typically) after a few thousand miles or so, not sure that 40 grade will be ok in the long run.
Maybe when RomanK has done ~100+k kms on those BE bearings, & if he strips it down then he can show us how they did with 0-40, he's 1 of our guinea pigs (no offence RomanK ).
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      03-18-2020, 11:57 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
BE bearings state that the increased clearances in their bearings is designed with 10w-60 in mind. From there website :-
Designed to address and fix the rod bearing clearance issue.
Designed for use with factory 10W60 weight oils.


So 5w/50 shouldn't be needed for the rod bearings, RomanK makes an interesting point about the main bearings, but as Helmsman says they are far less likely to fail.
Also, 50 grade oil will shear (wear) down to a 40 grade oil (typically) after a few thousand miles or so, not sure that 40 grade will be ok in the long run.
Maybe when RomanK has done ~100+k kms on those BE bearings, & if he strips it down then he can show us how they did with 0-40, he's 1 of our guinea pigs (no offence RomanK ).
I have redline 5w-50 but it's not in the car yet. In theory redline is a little thicker than average and doesn't sheer down as much as others so it might be perfect.
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      03-18-2020, 02:04 PM   #88
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I have redline 5w-50 but it's not in the car yet. In theory redline is a little thicker than average and doesn't sheer down as much as others so it might be perfect.
I run Red Line 5w50. I should be getting back the results from an ~8000km run shortly. The Red Line 5w50 is very similar to the Castrol TWS 10w60 in viscosity (21.0 vs 22.7) and HTHS (5.0 vs 5.2). It will be interesting to see what Red Line 5w50 shears down to. I ran Red Line 10w60 once for ~8000KM of all highway driving and it showed a 17.98 cSt@100°C when tested.

Happy motoring!
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