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      05-19-2014, 02:49 PM   #23
AxisMagi
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I'm no longer getting hot water temp warnings after installing the bigger
radiator, it's oil temps that are now the issue. I think it's lack of airflow
that has made oil temps worse than with stock radiator. The supercharger
intercooler sits in front of the oil intercooler and there is barely enough room
behind the radiator for heat to vent. I'll take a bandaid if it keeps me in
the game. My tech is suggesting to sell the car to get a truck/trailer/
dedicated race car lol... I think this is an eventuality but wanted to keep
running my all in one M for at least another season or two. It's so convenient
driving up to the track with minimal gear and tires in the back seat!
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      05-19-2014, 04:35 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killerfish2012 View Post
Want some advice from a guy who tracked an N54 since 2009? One nice trick that really works is hosing down the radiator (actually condenser, cuz the radiator sits behind it), intercooler, and oil cooler before the session. Do it prior to the start like 5-10mins before. Every track should have a hose available somewhere. When you do this, your oil, and especially your water temps will start off the session much, much lower. You have to do this procedure before every session, but it works like a charm, and you'll be running with the rest of them.
Good Idea. I run FI with the VT2-625 kit. I have yet to run into limp mode or true heat soke issues but I will admit my temps get close. I will try this to be preventitiive.
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      06-04-2014, 10:56 AM   #25
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Update:

Unlike previous gen M engines, swapping out the oil diverter to always
send oil to the intercooler did not make a difference in oil temps.

The EAS mister kit works. It was a much cooler 75 degree day so not
directly comparable with the previous 100 degree ambient temps
at Spring Mtn, but with the mister setup I got in 4 hot laps with oil
temps holding just over 275 before running out of mister water and then
promptly overheating. It certainly didn't stop me from
having an awesome wknd driving the car hard!

For the next event I'm going to switch back to the stock radiator
(as baseline oil temps were better stock presumably due to airflow),
move the SC heat exchanger up so that it's not blocking air to the oil
intercooler, and set the mister switch to a higher boost level
to try and conserve water and get a whole session out of the
1 gallon windshield wiper tank. If that doesn't work will put in a
larger 3 gallon water tank in the trunk and call it a day. Thanks
to EAS for developing this fix and forum members for sharing it!
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      06-05-2014, 07:40 AM   #26
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Moving the air-water front heat exchanger above the oil cooler should help oil temps a ton. Interested to see what your water temps do with the stock rad.
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      06-10-2014, 01:24 PM   #27
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Best solution: Remove supercharger. (That's what I did. ) My VT-1 wasn't doing much if anything at all at the track because of heat soak. I even started running faster times right after I removed mine. Bonus was the fact that my car felt way more balanced in the braking zone without the extra front-end weight and throttle response improved immensely.
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      06-10-2014, 01:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxisMagi View Post
Update:

Unlike previous gen M engines, swapping out the oil diverter to always
send oil to the intercooler did not make a difference in oil temps.

The EAS mister kit works. It was a much cooler 75 degree day so not
directly comparable with the previous 100 degree ambient temps
at Spring Mtn, but with the mister setup I got in 4 hot laps with oil
temps holding just over 275 before running out of mister water and then
promptly overheating. It certainly didn't stop me from
having an awesome wknd driving the car hard!

For the next event I'm going to switch back to the stock radiator
(as baseline oil temps were better stock presumably due to airflow),
move the SC heat exchanger up so that it's not blocking air to the oil
intercooler, and set the mister switch to a higher boost level
to try and conserve water and get a whole session out of the
1 gallon windshield wiper tank. If that doesn't work will put in a
larger 3 gallon water tank in the trunk and call it a day. Thanks
to EAS for developing this fix and forum members for sharing it!
Appreciate the review, we've been quietly using this for the past couple of years with very good results on the track in 100+ degree heat on our supercharged M3s.

Be sure to use distilled water to prevent the jets from clogging.
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      06-10-2014, 01:43 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post
Best solution: Remove supercharger. (That's what I did. ) My VT-1 wasn't doing much if anything at all at the track because of heat soak. I even started running faster times right after I removed mine. Bonus was the fact that my car felt way more balanced in the braking zone without the extra front-end weight and throttle response improved immensely.
Did you have heat soak issues in 90F + ambient tempr. only or it was always the case?
I just got my vt-1 kit not too long ago, but have not taken it to the track yet. I did install bigger oil cooler too, so i am curious how it will do when i go to the track.
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      06-10-2014, 03:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
Did you have heat soak issues in 90F + ambient tempr. only or it was always the case?
I just got my vt-1 kit not too long ago, but have not taken it to the track yet. I did install bigger oil cooler too, so i am curious how it will do when i go to the track.
Anything from 80+. I don't think the oiler cooler will do much, but who knows. I never had overheating issues with my kit even on 105 degree days. I noticed DCT cars run a bit hotter than 6MT at the track so supercharger + DCT tend to have more overheating issues in my experience.

My problem was that the kit made good power on the street, but practically no power at the track.
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      07-01-2014, 09:09 PM   #31
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You have to upgrade the lines and pump for the larger radiator as well to make sure its actually flowing more.
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