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      07-15-2019, 09:03 PM   #45
VictorH
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Two more shots relative to the replacement bushings.
The ring with the studs fits only around the smaller bushings, not the big ones.
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      07-16-2019, 06:16 PM   #46
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Please report back on the tool! I am trying different things without success.
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      07-16-2019, 09:20 PM   #47
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The tool looks like a few pieces from a universal bushing push/press kit. If it's like one of those, then with your tool the open cup would be on the bottom of the subframe and you would pull the old busing into the cup with the plate, and installation would be the reverse with the open cup on the top of the subframe pushing the new bushing in with the plate. I think the flat side of the cup is supposed touch the top of the subframe during installation to stop the bushing from pushing through....which may not matter since your bushings have a lip on one side and they aren't OEM. With a universal kit it's a little different since there are more cup and plate options and sizes. The eBay description says the ring with dowels is only for the front subframe bushings, and may be an alignment tool. I would be interested to hear how that thing is supposed to work during installation.

You might want to put a tiny tiny tiny amount of grease on the threaded rod. Manufacturer instructions for similar tools I have call for a little lube on the threaded rod.
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      07-17-2019, 07:05 AM   #48
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Thanks for the tips. Definitely going to lube the rod, thanks for the reminder.
I'll post some pics of the tool in use. Hopefully it does the trick.
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      07-17-2019, 07:38 PM   #49
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Tool may help with removal but highly doubt you'll get the new ones in with it...

You can get it out with about $5 worth of threaded rod, washers and nuts from HD and the c clamp bearing loaner tool you get from autozone for free. You would have almost paid for a 12 ton press for what you paid for the Ebay tool. Unless it is a high grade/hardness rod and you have a high torque impact gun, that wont cut it.

I did a full subframe bushing over haul with bw solid subframe bushing, purple diff bushing and black camber arm and trailing arm bushings. All but the subframe bushings were cake to remove using threaded rod, washers and the loaned c clamp I mentioned above

Let me know if you have questions about set up.

Last edited by M43S7RO; 07-17-2019 at 08:01 PM..
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      07-17-2019, 07:57 PM   #50
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It's out!! Not hard at all! Now starts the fun part, bushing removal and installation of replacements.
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      07-17-2019, 08:01 PM   #51
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Rate these bushings. 143,000 miles, Lots of track days, no slicks, no R-comp, just high-perf, summer street tires.
pic 1, driver's front, 2 driver's rear, 3, Passenger rear, 4 pass. front.

Just to be clear, I'm going to pull these all out, out the top of the sub-frame?
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      07-17-2019, 08:39 PM   #52
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Fronts come out from top, rears come out bottom.
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      07-17-2019, 09:07 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M43S7RO View Post
Fronts come out from top, rears come out bottom.
Thank you.
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      07-17-2019, 09:18 PM   #54
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I was wrong on the fronts, M43S7RO is correct. Listen to the guy who has done this before. The principle is the same though, pull the bushing into the cup.
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      07-17-2019, 11:14 PM   #55
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Look fine to me except there’s rubber in them
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      07-18-2019, 06:50 PM   #56
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Bushings are out. The tool worked pretty well, however, the rod is a bit suspect as it bent without too much force. I'm going to try and find a higher quality rod tomorrow as it's probably important for the initial installation (might need a hydraulic press after all but I'm going to try this).

Driver's front is the first set after the removal.
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      07-18-2019, 06:54 PM   #57
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Tool in use. The cup works pretty well and the pin plate helps keep it level with the sub-frame. The flange of the bushing is broken as part of the removal process but it's not a big deal.
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      07-18-2019, 06:57 PM   #58
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Last set. The rear bushings are bigger so they have to be pried out of the cup with a screwdriver. It's always good to have a shop dog around to help out when you get in a bind.
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      07-18-2019, 07:02 PM   #59
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The stock bushings on the front have cast depression for the body/chassis pin to help center the sub-frame on the car. It's not super tight but it's not bad.
What's too bad is the nice billet CNC bushings were not machined with any intent that the locating pin and the bushing even a reasonable centering function. Just pure slop with lots of play. I guess it is what it is, but how hard would it have been to measure and at least get something somewhat close to a fit to help with locating and centering the sub-frame.

Also, why do the front billet subframe bushings have the two machined flat areas on the flange? I don't see on the subframe where there's a need for the flats in terms of locating the bushing within the subframe.

Last edited by VictorH; 07-18-2019 at 07:12 PM..
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      07-18-2019, 08:55 PM   #60
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All four BW bushings are installed bottom up. The lips allow the bushings to seat against the subframe when you press them in.
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      07-18-2019, 09:06 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M43S7RO View Post
All four BW bushings are installed bottom up. The lips allow the bushings to seat against the subframe when you press them in.
Any particular reason the front bushings have the two flat areas on the flange opposite each other?
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      07-18-2019, 09:40 PM   #62
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I think just in case they need to be removed. They provide a means of using the rim of the subframe with the factory bushing removal tool.

Does not matter how the flanges are oriented from what I could tell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
Any particular reason the front bushings have the two flat areas on the flange opposite each other?
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      07-18-2019, 10:00 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
The stock bushings on the front have cast depression for the body/chassis pin to help center the sub-frame on the car. It's not super tight but it's not bad.
What's too bad is the nice billet CNC bushings were not machined with any intent that the locating pin and the bushing even a reasonable centering function. Just pure slop with lots of play. I guess it is what it is, but how hard would it have been to measure and at least get something somewhat close to a fit to help with locating and centering the sub-frame.
Are you talking about the square recess in the metal sleeve of the OE bushing? Are the chassis pins, or whatever fits that hole, sticking out of the body?
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      07-19-2019, 01:09 PM   #64
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Here's a picture of the body pin, one on each side, for the front sub-frame mounts.

The rears are now in, but I think the fronts are going to be challenging as there is very little lip and the bushings come all the way through the sub-frame.
I went to the grocery store with two bushings and a small cooler. I bought 10 pounds of dry ice ($1.69/pound) and in the store put the bushings with the dry ice in the cooler. Brought it home, put the whole cooler in the freezer and let it sit for 4 hours while I cleaned up the subframe.

So, the key issue with the bushings, as mentioned by others, is it's super key to get them square to the sub-frame before you try by whatever method to drive them in. What I found is that putting them in the sub-frame and then using a nylon covered dead blow hammer you can get them started easy. If they start tilting on you then hit the other side of the bushing to straighten it out. Was easy to get the bushings in perhaps 2" without much force at all and then they are nice and square and ready to go.

The bushing tool, on the rears works great. First you put the bolt through the inside of the cup and run the bushing in until it's about 80% in. Then you loosen it up and flip the cup around so that the bushing can be pulled into the cup for the final drive into place. The bushings must fit completely flat against the subframe, no gaps at all. On one side there was a loud pop and then it want into place. On the other side it went smoothly all the way in and was completely flat. Just be careful to not over-tighten the bolt or rod (I was using both) so that you don't strip or break the rod or bolt.
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      07-19-2019, 01:11 PM   #65
VictorH
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Needless to say the inside of the sub-frame must be super clean and then lightly lubed with some grease of your choice.
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      07-19-2019, 01:15 PM   #66
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Bushing comes all the way through.

I have the sub-frame upside down, so I'm driving all the bushings from the "bottom up" as recommended by folks who have posted here.
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