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      09-06-2014, 04:10 PM   #1
gthberg
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Snapped coolant bleed screw

Any brilliant ideas out there for removing half of the coolant expansion tank bleed screw? I was flushing the radiator today, and while I was doing the final bleed, the screw snapped in half (with hardly any torque, which is awesome)....should have seen the fountain of coolant spouting up in the air! So, I'll grab a new one, but I'm having a rough time getting the old one out, without any top to it. I'd like to avoid drilling it, so I don't get a bunch of plastic shavings in my expansion tank.

Thanks.
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      09-06-2014, 04:23 PM   #2
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Heat a screw driver and place on top of screw. Melt a slot into the top, let it cool and twist out?
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      09-06-2014, 08:37 PM   #3
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If you have to drill it coat the bit in vaseline and you won't get chunks in the tank. They also make a brass replacement FYI.
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      09-06-2014, 08:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s85e90 View Post
If you have to drill it coat the bit in vaseline and you won't get chunks in the tank. They also make a brass replacement FYI.
+1 on the brass fitting.

I think it is seriously annoying the amount of plastic they use in what is supposed to be a high end car. Plastic reservoir ok but plastic screw plugs..really? Nice job BMW
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      09-06-2014, 09:38 PM   #5
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I used a screw driver method..... +1
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      09-07-2014, 10:09 PM   #6
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http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-21...tion-list.aspx
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      09-07-2014, 10:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman831 View Post
Heat a screw driver and place on top of screw. Melt a slot into the top, let it cool and twist out?
Good call
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      09-08-2014, 10:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gthberg View Post
Any brilliant ideas out there for removing half of the coolant expansion tank bleed screw? I was flushing the radiator today, and while I was doing the final bleed, the screw snapped in half (with hardly any torque, which is awesome)....should have seen the fountain of coolant spouting up in the air! So, I'll grab a new one, but I'm having a rough time getting the old one out, without any top to it. I'd like to avoid drilling it, so I don't get a bunch of plastic shavings in my expansion tank.

Thanks.
Mine did the same thing. What I did that worked really well. Take a cutter/razor blade and start making straight lines, deep enough that you can use a flat head screw driver to back it out. Took me about 10-15 mins, but it worked well.

So the top of that left over part should look close to this:
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      09-28-2014, 07:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vastano
Does anyone have a link to a brass screw for the e92 m3? Those screws at turners doesn't fit the m3 according to the list
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      09-28-2014, 09:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamspeed View Post
Does anyone have a link to a brass screw for the e92 m3? Those screws at turners doesn't fit the m3 according to the list
Yes turner screw does fit the m3, follow this thread

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=886184
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      09-28-2014, 09:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwinm3 View Post
Yes turner screw does fit the m3, follow this thread

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=886184
Cool, thanks!

So it looks like BMW part number 11537793373 is for the E92 bleed screw and

17111712788 is the part number for the E46 bleed screw but they are both the same.
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      09-28-2014, 10:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamspeed View Post
Cool, thanks!

So it looks like BMW part number 11537793373 is for the E92 bleed screw and

17111712788 is the part number for the E46 bleed screw but they are both the same.
Glad I could help
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      01-07-2018, 06:02 PM   #13
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This happened to me while driving! I got the low coolant warning, pulled over and saw coolant spilled all over the engine bay. I was nervously watching my P3 guage coolant temp while driving back home.

The heated flathead screw driver method works. Here's what I did.

1. Dry off the top of the snapped screw.

2. Turn the stove on and leave the flathead screwdriver tip on the flame for 90 each side. I just picked 90 seconds as I didn't want to melt the handle.

3. Walk to the car, presuming the hood is already open of course, center the screwdriver on top of the screw and push the screwdriver in with a little force downward. You should hear a little sizzle. I left it on there for 10 seconds after the sizzle stopped.

4. Repeat step 2 and 3. Resist any temptation to unscrew it while it's hot, that would be counter productive.

5. Wait 3 mins.

6. Unscrew using the notch you just created.

If you're in a pinch to get a replacement bleeder screw, your local parts shop may have the Dorman brand in stock. I used it and it fits fine. $5 for two screws with gasket. I'll be changing mine every 60k miles as preventive maintenance from now on.
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      01-01-2019, 05:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman831 View Post
Heat a screw driver and place on top of screw. Melt a slot into the top, let it cool and twist out?
Sorry to bump an older thread, but thank you for the above advice, my bleeder screw head snapped today during some routine maintenance I was doing and this method worked like a charm.
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      03-28-2021, 08:40 PM   #15
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I tried the method of heating up a screw driver but that was taking too long. I used a rubber mallet to hammer in the screw driver and that came out easily.

The Dorman screws are junk, snapped off very easily.
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      06-06-2021, 07:23 PM   #16
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Great thread! The heated screwdriver method worked for me as well. Heading to the dealer tomorrow to pick up two new bleeder screws. I would pick up a brass on from Turner, but they appear to be discontinued. Any idea if someone still makes them?
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      06-06-2021, 07:36 PM   #17
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FWIW,

BMW TIS doesn't mention ever using the bleeder screw on the S65. If leaving the cap off is sufficient to BMW, it's good enough for me to avoid touching that bleeder screw.

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      06-08-2021, 12:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
FWIW,

BMW TIS doesn't mention ever using the bleeder screw on the S65. If leaving the cap off is sufficient to BMW, it's good enough for me to avoid touching that bleeder screw.

It doesnt but when the system is completely empty and you dont want to run the car its easiest to crack the screw then fill the system, the bleeder screw actually lets alot of air escape and allows coolant to flow.
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      06-08-2021, 12:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bake View Post
Great thread! The heated screwdriver method worked for me as well. Heading to the dealer tomorrow to pick up two new bleeder screws. I would pick up a brass on from Turner, but they appear to be discontinued. Any idea if someone still makes them?
I bought this one recently and it fit well: https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Radi.../dp/B07ZQCCJNR
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      06-14-2021, 07:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4130 View Post
I bought this one recently and it fit well: https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Radi.../dp/B07ZQCCJNR
I actually bought the same. Amazon said i doesn't fit my 2013 but it does. Better option than the OEM plastic one.
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      06-14-2021, 12:12 PM   #21
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I'm slowly lining up parts to flush my system. I haven't done it before on this car. Is this screw https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Radi.../dp/B07ZQCCJNR for both the top bleeder screw and the drain plug? Or is the drain not plastic?
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      06-14-2021, 01:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnr3524 View Post
I'm slowly lining up parts to flush my system. I haven't done it before on this car. Is this screw https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Radi.../dp/B07ZQCCJNR for both the top bleeder screw and the drain plug? Or is the drain not plastic?
I figured it out. The drain plug is, of course, different. FCP Euro I go...
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