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      08-18-2015, 07:54 PM   #1
Doc Oc
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Timing Chain Tensioner

Going to replace my timing chain tensioners this weekend in hopes it'll help my cold start rattle. Can anyone give me any tips on the job? I can't find any diy's or even pictures online. Not sure where to even start. What needs to be removed to access the timing chains? I'm assuming plenum and valve covers but what else?

Any help welcome!

Thanks
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      08-18-2015, 09:43 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Oc View Post
Going to replace my timing chain tensioners this weekend in hopes it'll help my cold start rattle. Can anyone give me any tips on the job? I can't find any diy's or even pictures online. Not sure where to even start. What needs to be removed to access the timing chains? I'm assuming plenum and valve covers but what else?

Any help welcome!

Thanks
You need to get ahold of a TIS but if it's like the M62/S62, the tensioner will come "compressed". Do NOT uncompress it. If this is an external removal, there is probably a crush washer to go with it and keep a rag handy as you may get some drippings and you don't want them on your drive belts.

Here is Turner's description.
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File Type: pdf Screen Shot 2015-08-18 at 7.48.12 PM.pdf (217.5 KB, 725 views)
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Last edited by thekurgan; 08-18-2015 at 09:50 PM..
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      08-18-2015, 10:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
You need to get ahold of a TIS but if it's like the M62/S62, the tensioner will come "compressed". Do NOT uncompress it. If this is an external removal, there is probably a crush washer to go with it and keep a rag handy as you may get some drippings and you don't want them on your drive belts.

Here is Turner's description.
Thanks. I was wondering if it could be done externally or if everything has to come off the front. I've circled what I believe are the two tensioners but I'm not sure what the easiest way to access them is.
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      08-18-2015, 10:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Oc View Post
Thanks. I was wondering if it could be done externally or if everything has to come off the front. I've circled what I believe are the two tensioners but I'm not sure what the easiest way to access them is.
The one on the left for sure, the right one, I'm not so sure.
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      08-18-2015, 10:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
The one on the left for sure, the right one, I'm not so sure.
I found a good picture of the one on the right just now. Easily reachable just taking the plenum off. Haven't been able to locate a pic of the one on left yet....
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      08-19-2015, 02:46 AM   #6
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OP - Can you post a video of this cold start rattle so we can compare?
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      08-19-2015, 02:58 AM   #7
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Left: http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...ner_%28s65%29/

Right: http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...ner_%28s65%29/

11 31 1AZ: 65NM

hope this helps, you'll also need new sealing rings: 11317507432
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      08-19-2015, 08:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonardo629 View Post
Left: http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...ner_%28s65%29/

Right: http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...ner_%28s65%29/

11 31 1AZ: 65NM

hope this helps, you'll also need new sealing rings: 11317507432
That's awesome, thanks. Unfortunately I ordered timing chain guide o rings which have a different part #. I'll check the seals out asap.

Edit: can you check the link and tell me if it looks like these tensioners already come with the seal:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES22413/

I ordered seals from BMW Atlanta but after seeing what they look like and checking the picture at ecs it looks like they may come with the seal.
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Last edited by Doc Oc; 08-19-2015 at 09:41 AM..
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      08-19-2015, 11:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emm Tree View Post
OP - Can you post a video of this cold start rattle so we can compare?
Check out my other thread "cold start noise". Video is in the first post.
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      08-19-2015, 12:03 PM   #10
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yes, according to realoem.com, the new tensioners will come with the new sealing rings.
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      08-20-2015, 12:59 PM   #11
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This job can be done in less than 45 minutes. The tensioners are both accessible from the outside. You will not need any SST's to do the job.
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      08-20-2015, 03:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malek@MRF View Post
This job can be done in less than 45 minutes. The tensioners are both accessible from the outside. You will not need any SST's to do the job.
Excellent, thank you sir!
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      08-20-2015, 07:21 PM   #13
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The one on top seems easy, the one on the side looks more involved? And the service manual call for removal of both ac line? Does that mean the AC need to be drained and filled afterward?
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      08-20-2015, 07:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92zero View Post
The one on top seems easy, the one on the side looks more involved? And the service manual call for removal of both ac line? Does that mean the AC need to be drained and filled afterward?
Crap I hope not. Just looked at the engine and the drivers side one looks like a snap. Haven't been able to locate the other one just yet.
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      08-22-2015, 10:43 PM   #15
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The driver side is cake. The passenger side will require removing the a/c lines at the compressor, because you can't fit the necessary socket and wrench head between the tensioner and the lines. I worked it for an hour, trying a variety of sockets, couplers, socket wrenches, etc. to no avail. There is probably a special tool for it. In any case, plan on depressurizing the a/c.

If the compressor was mounted half an inch lower, the entire job would take about 5 minutes.
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      08-23-2015, 10:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maypo View Post
The driver side is cake. The passenger side will require removing the a/c lines at the compressor, because you can't fit the necessary socket and wrench head between the tensioner and the lines. I worked it for an hour, trying a variety of sockets, couplers, socket wrenches, etc. to no avail. There is probably a special tool for it. In any case, plan on depressurizing the a/c.

If the compressor was mounted half an inch lower, the entire job would take about 5 minutes.
Can one remove the belt, dismount the ac compressor and lower it a bit instead of depressurizing the ac system instead?
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      08-23-2015, 10:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maypo View Post
The driver side is cake. The passenger side will require removing the a/c lines at the compressor, because you can't fit the necessary socket and wrench head between the tensioner and the lines. I worked it for an hour, trying a variety of sockets, couplers, socket wrenches, etc. to no avail. There is probably a special tool for it. In any case, plan on depressurizing the a/c.

If the compressor was mounted half an inch lower, the entire job would take about 5 minutes.
Good info, thanks. I haven't worked on it yet because the parts aren't in but it looks like you might be able to get to the drivers side just by removing the intake. Is that the case or does the plenum need to come off as well?

If I disconnect the ac lines all I have to do is reinstall and add s couple cans of refrigerant, right?
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      08-23-2015, 05:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Oc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maypo View Post
The driver side is cake. The passenger side will require removing the a/c lines at the compressor, because you can't fit the necessary socket and wrench head between the tensioner and the lines. I worked it for an hour, trying a variety of sockets, couplers, socket wrenches, etc. to no avail. There is probably a special tool for it. In any case, plan on depressurizing the a/c.

If the compressor was mounted half an inch lower, the entire job would take about 5 minutes.
Good info, thanks. I haven't worked on it yet because the parts aren't in but it looks like you might be able to get to the drivers side just by removing the intake. Is that the case or does the plenum need to come off as well?

If I disconnect the ac lines all I have to do is reinstall and add s couple cans of refrigerant, right?
No not quite.

First, allowing refrigerant to escape to atmosphere is against federal law, it must be properly recovered.

Second, you need to pull the AC system under a vacuum of at least 29 in/Hg for half an hour (I like to do this for at least an hour) before recharging the system to remove the moisture that would have got into the system when the lines were removed. Failure to ensure the system is free of moisture before recharging can cause damage to the compressor and/or expansion valve.

Third, you "should" replace the o-rings on any lines you remove to ensure the system is tight.
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      08-23-2015, 07:56 PM   #19
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Thanks, good info again. How does one recover the refrigerant?
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      08-23-2015, 08:14 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Doc Oc View Post
Thanks, good info again. How does one recover the refrigerant?
Edit: Nevermind @BMRLVR beat me to it.

Cheers.
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      08-23-2015, 09:42 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Oc
Thanks, good info again. How does one recover the refrigerant?
With a refrigerant recovery unit. Any shop that works on AC systems would have one.
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      08-23-2015, 09:52 PM   #22
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Cool, thanks.
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