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06-18-2021, 07:22 PM | #18217 |
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From experience you can chew thru rotors if you have extremely abrasive pads mated to softer rotors (eg stock rotors). I've done it a few times over 1-2 trackdays with harsh pads like DS3000 and CCRg. Heat cracks are more a function of time - they are caused by the repeated heating and cooling of the rotors over many trackdays.
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06-18-2021, 10:59 PM | #18218 | |
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06-19-2021, 01:15 AM | #18219 |
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FCP is the way to go for OEM replacements. |
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06-19-2021, 05:51 AM | #18220 |
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I have front slotted Girodisk coming from Bimmerworks today. So I have a backup to the OEM. But, I don't want to replace the OEM prematurely. I want to make sure they are spent/used/done before replacing.
So, if the OEM don't crack, besides minimum thickness, when do you replace them? I have brake ducts and while I can the get the OEM to fade, I can also get them to work and do a decent lap time. I did alright at WGI and NYST with these. I have LRP coming and there I mostly brake once and the rest of the lap they brakes can cool off. Because I don't have slicks on the front, I think the OEM work by the evidence that I can get to the ABS. Fading is another but related issue. Trail braking is less effective compares to the CCM-R. After 1200 psi braking, the trailing is on a very hot disks and this is where I can see a difference, not in the initial stopping. It is very interesting to me to experience this differences. two or three years a go I was on the OEM pads and OEM front disk and there was not stopping after the initial brake application. At NYST straight Between the 400 and the 100 the brakes were already fading. I did not have the brake ducts then. Now with the Pagid RSL29 and OEM rotors I can say it is not that bad. I just did 1:37.3 at NYST and the laps before and after were quick as well. I am pleased with this combination and I think others will be too and It is such a low cost to get started. I dare to say that if some one is starting on MPS4S then racing pads and OEM rotors will be fine. The only issue I see is high rate of consumption. There are other reasons to get BBK or even CCM-R, but for someone that wants to start trackdays brake pads and good brake fluid seems to be a low cost to get started. I am rambling, sorry… |
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06-19-2021, 10:34 AM | #18221 |
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They can certainly still crack, I've just had good experiences with them not cracking on me. Other than cracks, you base when to replace off of min thickness.
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06-19-2021, 02:00 PM | #18222 |
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luckily for me i haven't cracked the cheap rotor yet with aggressive pads. i just make sure i cool them off enough before coming to a stop. honestly speaking it takes me less than 45 minutes to swap out the rotors so i do carry my oem ones just in case. or just carry more cheap rotors lmao.
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06-19-2021, 02:36 PM | #18223 | |
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06-19-2021, 07:42 PM | #18225 | |
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FCP is great, my OEM rotors are from there. of course sometimes I don't want to spend the initial $1200 to get my warranty after sending in my old. I've completed consistent laps with the cheap rotors which is why I've been testing them out vs my OEM ones. i can spend more money elsewhere like more track days/fuel. thats just my reasoning behind it.
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06-19-2021, 07:46 PM | #18226 |
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i think at one point EuroSport Tuning was a DO88 Dealer. not sure if they are still one. hard to find them in the US.
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06-19-2021, 10:12 PM | #18227 |
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Leddy Motorsports. I ordered a few coolers from them around the Black Friday sales it just came straight from Sweden without the extra shipping costs do88 charges. Not sure why they can't do that all time
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Last edited by Ximian; 06-21-2021 at 08:40 AM.. |
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06-20-2021, 04:17 AM | #18228 |
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06-20-2021, 09:16 AM | #18229 |
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…another vote for Leddy.
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06-21-2021, 07:28 AM | #18231 | |
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Had some PFC08 rears separate from the backing. Other pad pictured for comparison sake: Anyone experienced this or know what could be the cause? Piston and guide pins look to operate fine. Surface rust is from driving it back home like that, in the wet and not doing anything about it for approximately a month. The rotor isn't scored but blue enough to be uncomfortable for reuse. Already had DSUno on the front and now have them on the rear along with new OEM rotors. Love this pad even more, it's super easy to modulate.
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06-21-2021, 09:46 AM | #18232 |
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What's wrong with the rotor being blue? That's actually a good sign you had heat in them. A perfectly-bedded rotor will be an even shade of blue across the entire annulus.
Pad material separating could be a manufacturing defect. I would call PFC. I've seen material flake a bit at the edges from very high heat.
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06-21-2021, 10:17 AM | #18233 |
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Woo! Installed my CP9660 this past weekend. Man, what a weight difference between these and the st-60s!
Also, had a buddy 3d print some inserts for the apr gt250 wing stands that makes them look like solid stands. Looks pretty neat!
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06-21-2021, 10:21 AM | #18235 |
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Did you get a chance to measure it? BBK is definitely on the list for me as I think I'm pretty much maxing out the stock calipers. Torn between the Stoptech trophy or Essex AP Racing
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06-21-2021, 10:34 AM | #18236 |
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Thanks! EC7s are my dedicated track set but these are the same size as those and same tires so I always have a backup incase anything happens
Unfortunately not, I had the non trophy though so it wouldn't have been a direct apples to apples comparison. I initially was going to go st-60 trophy as well but got a good deal on the cp9660 used so figured why not haha.
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06-21-2021, 11:54 AM | #18237 |
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