Best Replacement Battery

[MineralWhiteF80]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

that doesn't make sense, the lowest AGM i was able to code when i had an H6-40 battery was 40AH AGM via protools.

which would be the lowest AGM setting possible for me via protools.

This whole process makes no sense, which is why this whole battery recoding and registering thing is way harder than it should be. The inconsistency with Carly, NCSExpert, ISTA+, ProTools, etc is not confidence-inspiring

Recoding the battery to a different size and type is divided into two categories: Lead-Acid and AGM. The car's Vehicle Order (VO) must be reprogrammed that tells the car what battery it has installed. The available VO coding options understood by the car's modules only allow you to go from Lead Acid 90 Ah down to 46 Ah or the AGM options are 70, 80, and 90 Ah. The car cannot be coded by adding a made-up "-A040" code to the VO and writing the VO to the CAS and FRM/NFRM modules because that line of code simply does not exist. You are forced with choosing the "-A070" for the 70 Ah AGM option.

"B" represents wet-cell (lead acid), while "A" represents AGM (glass mat) in the VO.
E B046 BATT_46AH //46 Ah-Batterie
E B055 BATT_55AH //55 Ah-Batterie
E B070 BATT_70AH //70 Ah-Batterie
E B080 BATT_80AH //80 Ah-Batterie
E B090 BATT_90AH //90 Ah-Batterie
E A070 BATT_AGM_70AH //70 Ah-AGM Batterie
E A080 BATT_AGM_80AH //80 Ah-AGM Batterie
E A090 BATT_AGM_90AH //90 Ah-AGM Batterie

The ultimate goal is to make sure you are using the lowest AGM Ah setting you can that still registers correctly in ISTA when you go to register the battery.

I've attached a link below to the bible of this topic. Option #5 shows how to do it correctly using NCSExpert and not a more "basic, user friendly" software like Carly or ProTools. That gives you the most ground level understanding of what is happening behind the scenes when using ProTools or Carly.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1338304

[MineralWhiteF80]

Originally Posted by mjhoiser

Interesting, thanks for the info on Carly. Did the incorrect registration make any difference in the operation of the car (high idle rev to charge for the incorrect registration) or battery operation for you?

I have noticed no changes in the car's behavior since recoding to 70 Ah and registering a new battery with ISTA, even though my car's coding shows I have a 70Ah battery in my Vehicle Order but ISTA still says I have a 90 Ah AGM battery

Originally Posted by UPSROD

I don't know why you guys keep talking H6,H7 batteries. Mine is an H8 AGM, .group 49, 92 ah

H6 (or H7) sizes are physically smaller, and now being used when people are switching to super lightweight Lithium Ion batteries. You can save 40-45 pounds of weight by going from your H8 AGM to an H6 Lithium battery. Your wallet gets lighter too because they are expensive!

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by MineralWhiteF80

This whole process makes no sense, which is why this whole battery recoding and registering thing is way harder than it should be. The inconsistency with iCarly, NCSExpert, ISTA+, ProTools, etc is not confidence-inspiring

I've attached a link below to the bible of this topic. Option #5 shows how to do it correctly using NCSExpert and not a more "basic" software like iCarly or ProTools. That gives you the most ground level understanding of what is happening behind the scenes when using ProTools or iCarly.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1338304

Yeah, I understand Carly can be inconsistent. I've only ever coded using NCSexpert and ProTools, and I know ProTools updates frequently. I'll have to check manually via NCSexpert when I have some time.

[KarmaWise]

The inconsistencies among different software tools can indeed be frustrating. From what you've shared, ensuring that the car's Vehicle Order (VO) is accurately programmed seems crucial, especially when dealing with different battery types and sizes. It's interesting to note the significance of using the correct AGM Ah setting to ensure proper registration in ISTA.

[georgebmwM3]

Originally Posted by MineralWhiteF80

H6 (or H7) sizes are physically smaller, and now being used when people are switching to super lightweight Lithium Ion batteries. You can save 40-45 pounds of weight by going from your H8 AGM to an H6 Lithium battery. Your wallet gets lighter too because they are expensive!

How can you update a new battery with Bimmer code?

[Soden82]

Originally Posted by georgebmwM3

How can you update a new battery with Bimmer code?

You can do it on bimmerlink fairly easily.

[VR1]

Originally Posted by georgebmwM3

How can you update a new battery with Bimmer code?

I believe you need Bimmerlink to register a battery that is being replaced "in kind" (i.e. same Ah rating)

Bimmercode has the ability to also code a battery that has different Ah capacity

So depends on what battery you’re replacing it with, but it should be an option in the app (I used bimmerlink)

[Hagasan41]

Yes! Coded my battery with Bimmerlink and it was super easy. Hard pass on Carly.

[Oreo Cat]

Originally Posted by aus

Has anyone tried Weizeus batteries?

H8: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...onths-warranty

H6: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...44104235221220

H5: https://www.weizeus.com/products/wei...44104248885476

.

I just put one in, searched google until I found a coupon that worked and got it for about $140 shipped. so far works just fine, i'm not one to spend a ton of money at the dealer for a battery that will have a bmw sticker on it

[jrlee53]

Bought an Odyssey from FCPEuro a year ago and still holding strong. Also replaced my alternator as it decided to call it quits. Recent reviews coming in don't sound kosher, but my own experience has been positive so far. Cranks right up even in the dead of winter, used to take a few cranks more on my previous replacement battery (a no name brand my old shop sold me on, which did work well enough for 8 years). Most of the weird error codes i got before replacing have gone away.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aut...49-950#reviews