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      01-15-2022, 02:29 PM   #1
mthreecpe
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Battery replacement at indy shop

I saw a message r.e. low battery charge when I shut the car off once today, but not the other time I shut the car off today. Probably time to get a new battery, and I'd rather do this proactively.

I know the dealerships charge $500 or whatever for the OEM part + reset/code. If I take it to an indy shop and ask them for the non-OEM battery (what are ppl using these days?), will they be able to code/reset the car for the new battery? How will I be able to confirm that they actually do this, rather than just plug in a new one and tell me I'm good to go...

Thanks.
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      01-15-2022, 05:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthreecpe View Post
I saw a message r.e. low battery charge when I shut the car off once today, but not the other time I shut the car off today. Probably time to get a new battery, and I'd rather do this proactively.

I know the dealerships charge $500 or whatever for the OEM part + reset/code. If I take it to an indy shop and ask them for the non-OEM battery (what are ppl using these days?), will they be able to code/reset the car for the new battery? How will I be able to confirm that they actually do this, rather than just plug in a new one and tell me I'm good to go...

Thanks.
To be on the safe side ypu need to check it yourself. Had mine replaced recently, shop said they reset/coded it (they had tool and thought so), checked with Carly, no. Had a mate doing it with another tool. Quite a big difference on charge voltage behavour after reset so def worth doing.
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      01-15-2022, 05:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthreecpe View Post
I saw a message r.e. low battery charge when I shut the car off once today, but not the other time I shut the car off today. Probably time to get a new battery, and I'd rather do this proactively.

I know the dealerships charge $500 or whatever for the OEM part + reset/code. If I take it to an indy shop and ask them for the non-OEM battery (what are ppl using these days?), will they be able to code/reset the car for the new battery? How will I be able to confirm that they actually do this, rather than just plug in a new one and tell me I'm good to go...

Thanks.
To be on the safe side ypu need to check it yourself. Had mine replaced recently, shop said they reset/coded it (they had tool and thought so), checked with Carly, no. Had a mate doing it with another tool. Quite a big difference on charge voltage behavour after reset so def worth doing.
Some people confuse coding the battery with registration. Two different actions. My car was coded correctly for the battery but the previous owner didn't actually register it. I used BimmerLink to register. I hear Carly doesn't register properly.
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      01-16-2022, 11:13 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by spammysammich View Post
Some people confuse coding the battery with registration. Two different actions. My car was coded correctly for the battery but the previous owner didn't actually register it. I used BimmerLink to register. I hear Carly doesn't register properly.
Same here, shops tool only coded but didn't reset the battery.
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      01-16-2022, 01:37 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
Same here, shops tool only coded but didn't reset the battery.
Honestly I can see how people make the mistake. Everyone talks about "coding" components on these cars and gets that portion done. Nobody told me about registration until I started poking around with BimmerLink.
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      01-17-2022, 04:36 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by spammysammich View Post
Honestly I can see how people make the mistake. Everyone talks about "coding" components on these cars and gets that portion done. Nobody told me about registration until I started poking around with BimmerLink.
Assuming same battery technology but slightly different capacity I'd guess the registration/reset part is the more important.
Changing from original AGM to for instance flooded acid (like I did) I'm assuming making coding good to do as well as AGM have higher charge voltage.
Been interesting to monitor voltage since battery swap, the onboard pwr mgmt actually does things like increasing voltage significantly when surrounding temperature drops.
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      01-17-2022, 08:11 AM   #7
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Is the only way to confirm that the shop properly registered the battery to buy Bimmerlink + an adapter?

What non-OEM battery is the consensus these days?
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      01-24-2022, 08:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthreecpe View Post
Is the only way to confirm that the shop properly registered the battery to buy Bimmerlink + an adapter?

What non-OEM battery is the consensus these days?
Any quality H8 AGM will be just fine. Register and code with INPA and ISTA-d. Or Carly seems to be able to code the battery Type but seems to fail at registering IIRC.

The proper cable is not too expensive and handy to have anyway.
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