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      05-23-2010, 01:19 AM   #1
sard
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Got my vital signs checked | Dynapack + Dynojet

Hey guys. I'm pretty much done performance wise with the car for now so I wanted to get a read on where the car stands. Since Dynapack hub dynos are known for their accuracy, I searched one out. Who else to talk to but Pencilgeek. Thanks again for all the help and answers to many questions. My run files will be uploaded by Pencilgeek.

I stopped by Garage Tuning in Orange to use their Dynapack. They work on a lot of Subaru engine swaps/custom fabrication/engine rebuilds/BIG power Subbies.

Engine mods: BMC Air Filter, Powerchip Custom Tune, and Akrapovic Full Exhaust.





Let me also address the DCT + Dynapack issue. When running on a Dynapack, the car will shift from 1st to 2nd, but no matter what, will not shift any higher. To get around this, using NGC's suggestion of disabling ABS, I was able to get the car to upshift. The car was dyno'd in 4th gear and the gear ratio corrected by Pencilgeek.


I pulled fuse #82 to disable ABS. Please chime in on this if you have some insight on a better way to disable ABS.




The results. Sorry I have no baseline to compare it with.


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As I was talking to Robert about my Dynapack results, he generously squeezed me in for a Dynojet run at Specialty Z the next day. I was interested to see how the two machines varied in measurements.


Getting all setup. I forget the guy's name, but super cool dude. Friendly and explained a lot to me as well as shooting the breeze about some of their 1000 hp 300Z's. I think he said they have a car in the 9's already or soon to be in the 9's.




Similar in HP reading as the Dynapack, but the torque did drop. Note: Powerchip did make an adjustment to the tune between the Dynapack and Dynojet (one I might need to have changed back ). It's hard to say if it's just because of different machines, but there are SO many variables within each machine already that affects end results. Conservative AFR's

As a bonus, here's a photo I took at Bimmerfest (and the only photo I took so I can't make a thread with just one pic). Thanks again Robert for all the help.
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Last edited by sard; 05-23-2010 at 01:37 AM..
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      05-23-2010, 01:27 AM   #2
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Just messing with you John. Looks like some pretty healthy numbers.
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      05-23-2010, 01:35 AM   #3
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awesome sard, love ur ride
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      05-23-2010, 02:15 AM   #4
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Why'd you dyno on 18" stock rims instead of your BBS?
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      05-23-2010, 03:05 AM   #5
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MmmHmm!!!
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      05-23-2010, 10:16 AM   #6
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Nice meeting you yesterday John!

nice write up!
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      05-23-2010, 10:35 AM   #7
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love your car ! any thoughts on doing a pulley?
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      05-23-2010, 11:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Alpine View Post
love your car ! any thoughts on doing a pulley?
Nah. Heard a few too many problems with them. Thanks for the compliment.
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      05-24-2010, 05:17 PM   #9
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John's car is nothing short of a masterpiece, always a pleasure seeing you John.

Also kudos to PencilGeek, this is a testament to how helpful he is to other forum members, we are lucky to have him here.
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      05-24-2010, 06:17 PM   #10
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Are you running lean higher up in the rev range?
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      05-25-2010, 06:49 AM   #11
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Damn wish I knew about the ABS trick earlier, I gave up on Dynapack, will have to go back for a run...where's the fuse box located?
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      05-25-2010, 10:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STALKER View Post
Are you running lean higher up in the rev range?
I'm pretty sure that's normal at AFR's at those RPM's

Quote:
Originally Posted by PencilGeek View Post
There was one guy who got the Dynapack to work on DCT -- and he documented how he did it. But he was unclear about which fuse to pull. Sard took those instructions and worked with the dyno shop to figure out which fuse to pull. The original instructions were posted here:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4731309
Robert, "worked with" is kind of a stretch. They didn't know which fuse to pull or if there is an actual sensor you can disable at the wheel as the original instructions hint at. I was left alone calling around, but no one really knew. One BMW tech told me I shouldn't mess with any of them under any circumstances.. I was stuck there. I was getting charged for the setup fee regardless. I figure fuses are meant to blow so I took my chance and picked the most harmless looking fuse. I'm still curious if anyone knows a better way.
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      05-30-2010, 08:27 PM   #13
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Thanks Sard - pulling fuse #82 worked a treat.

There is a way because when I had my broken engine mount saga, BMW put the car on the same dyno and the dyno operator told me that they put in sort of code into the onboard computer and it allowed them to run in any gear. He's trying to find out the code...
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      01-07-2011, 01:49 PM   #14
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nice Asian
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      01-07-2011, 01:59 PM   #15
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It was probably Greg or Seb at Specialty Z. Great guys, my Z has their downpipes and exhaust, very quality stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sard View Post
As I was talking to Robert about my Dynapack results, he generously squeezed me in for a Dynojet run at Specialty Z the next day. I was interested to see how the two machines varied in measurements.
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      01-17-2011, 05:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sard View Post

Similar in HP reading as the Dynapack, but the torque did drop. Note: Powerchip did make an adjustment to the tune between the Dynapack and Dynojet (one I might need to have changed back ). It's hard to say if it's just because of different machines, but there are SO many variables within each machine already that affects end results. Conservative AFR's
How was the timing advance measured? It pulled timing a few times. The correlation between maximum timing run and torque is clear. It appears all 3 runs pulled timing in different areas. How was the fuel quality? I'm guessing 91 California (which is shit) because you are on Socal. I wonder if it will pull timing on 93 up here.. :-/
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