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      04-17-2020, 01:42 PM   #1
exnoodle
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LUK clutch replaced twice, still making noise

Need some help/advice.

I replaced my 7/2008 build M3 clutch & DM flywheel with a LUK replacement.

LUK 03102 for the clutch & LUK DMF148 for the duel mass flywheel.

First time i did it, there was a strange noise coming from the transmission shortly after the engine started but well before the engine warmed up.

I put in a warranty claim, and replaced it again, same noise persists.

Depressing the clutch or being in gear does not change the noise. There is a slight abnormal vibration as well, that also changes in frequency with the engine reving.

Reving the engine increases the noises frequency.

Still have the old clutch/DM flywheel, which is original. Only changed them as I was in there already doing the rear main seal.

YouTube link:


Wanted to see if anyone has a similar. Looking for advice on where to troubleshoot.

This will be the 4rth time I have gone into the clutch, hoping this will the the last.

Also creating a video/youtube on replacing the clutch to share with others/contribute to the community. That will be up soon on youtube.

Last edited by exnoodle; 04-17-2020 at 08:20 PM.. Reason: adding youtube link
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      04-17-2020, 01:53 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exnoodle View Post
Need some help/advice.

I replaced my 7/2008 build M3 clutch & DM flywheel with a LUK replacement.

LUK 03102 for the clutch & LUK DMF148 for the duel mass flywheel.

First time i did it, there was a strange noise coming from the transmission shortly after the engine started but well before the engine warmed up.

I put in a warranty claim, and replaced it again, same noise persists.

Depressing the clutch or being in gear does not change the noise. There is a slight abnormal vibration as well, that also changes in frequency with the engine reving.

Reving the engine increases the noises frequency.

Still have the old clutch/DM flywheel, which is original. Only changed them as I was in there already doing the rear main seal.

I will record it tonight and post it on youtube w/ a link, wanted to see if anyone has seen this. Looking for advice on where to troubleshoot.

This will be the 4rth time I have gone into the clutch, hoping this will the the last.

Also creating a video/youtube on replacing the clutch to share with others/contribute to the community. That will be up soon on youtube.
I used this one, no problems, no sounds, easy peasy.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...34#description

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m3-21212283820

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      04-17-2020, 02:29 PM   #3
pbonsalb
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I think you bought exactly the same parts as the OP, but paid more than twice as much money because you bought them from BMW instead of directly from Luk, who makes them for BMW. I do not know why the OP is having problems, but it likely has nothing to do with BMW not having put its emblem on the Luk parts.
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      04-17-2020, 03:54 PM   #4
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I just had a luk clutch and flywheel installed. At the same time I had the transmission mounts replaced with oem and the engine mounts replaced with vibratechnic engine mounts.

No funny noises and the drivetrain feels pretty dialed in. Really a nice complement to my M factory CF driveshaft and upgraded rear subframe and diff mounts.

Only thing different is a slight vibration at idle due to the vibratechnic mounts.

If you have a 2008... be sure you replace the engine and transmission mounts as that is probably where the noises is coming from
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      04-17-2020, 08:26 PM   #5
exnoodle
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PandaM3 - I replaced the engine mounts & transmission mounts during the clutch replacement. Also changed out my GUIBO and center bearing as I had the main shaft refurbished as the U joint had seized in one direction.

Any other ideas? Hopefully the youtube helps.
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      04-17-2020, 08:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exnoodle View Post
PandaM3 - I replaced the engine mounts & transmission mounts during the clutch replacement. Also changed out my GUIBO and center bearing as I had the main shaft refurbished as the U joint had seized in one direction.

Any other ideas? Hopefully the youtube helps.
Did you pre tension the clutch before installing?

You could need a whole driveshaft assembly. EVERY m3 needs one eventually.
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      04-17-2020, 09:31 PM   #7
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Clutch came pre tensioned from LUK. Then used their centering tool to get the clutch disk aligned nicely.

Driveshaft was professionally refurbished and great now. Video was taken @ idle and in neutral. So the driveshaft was not moving.

Do appreciate the input bmwpower603.
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      04-17-2020, 09:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exnoodle View Post
Clutch came pre tensioned from LUK. Then used their centering tool to get the clutch disk aligned nicely.

Driveshaft was professionally refurbished and great now. Video was taken @ idle and in neutral. So the driveshaft was not moving.

Do appreciate the input bmwpower603.
Did you say you replaced the flywheel already ?.

I just watched the video. If it were me. I would load ista. And run the transmission pump to see if it makes any weird noises. As well as checking the gear box fluid.

You need to put the car on the lift, and drive it and observe for noises with a stethoscope.
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      04-18-2020, 01:39 AM   #9
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make sure the dowel in the crank is lined up properly with the flywheel.

did u replace it originally for a noise or was it worn out?
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      04-18-2020, 03:08 PM   #10
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bmwpower603 - Interesting point, as the noise is slightly louder on the passenger side where the pump is. I will get it on my lift and listen w/ a stethoscope.

Mapster37 - I was replacing the rear main seal, and saw the clutch disk was worn, so decided to replace both the DM flyweel and clutch (both). DM flywheel has a single bolt hole that is larger than the others, for proper alignment, so only one way to put it on. I also hand tightened all the bolts, then worked a star pattern, 90 degrees at a time until properly torqued, to help with alignment.
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      04-18-2020, 09:36 PM   #11
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Pull the gearbox see if the back of the flywheel is leaving any sort of markings on the crankcase. If the noise doesn’t go away when you depress the clutch there may be something else at play here.
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      04-19-2020, 08:46 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exnoodle View Post
I was replacing the rear main seal, and saw the clutch disk was worn...
How many miles did it run?
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      04-19-2020, 07:19 PM   #13
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jvictormp - About 117K

I have taken apart the manual trans from the engine twice, both times, no signs of ware, and no metal shavings. But it certainly sounds like that is whats happening.

I did lift the car up, here is the video, noise is the loudest @ the hole between the transmission and engine block.



I am still leaning toward noise from the DM flywheel.


Any other thoughts?
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      04-19-2020, 07:49 PM   #14
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i would re-install original clutch/flywheel that you replaced for wear. you should have this job down pretty good at this point. then you can determine flywheel, just weird that its the same noise after you warrantied the original replacement.....
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      04-20-2020, 12:59 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapster37 View Post
i would re-install original clutch/flywheel that you replaced for wear. you should have this job down pretty good at this point. then you can determine flywheel, just weird that its the same noise after you warrantied the original replacement.....
Makes me wonder if the DM flywheel was warrantied too or only the clutch kit. And if a flywheel could cause this problem.
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      04-20-2020, 06:33 AM   #16
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I would not enjoy hearing that sound. You need a pro like deansbimmer to listen. He has seen/heard it all.
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      04-20-2020, 07:58 AM   #17
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Did you replace the throw out bearing? Did you check the input shaft for play?
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      04-21-2020, 06:03 PM   #18
exnoodle
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rcracin - Yes, replaced the throw out bearing, it was part of the LUK kit.

The noise does not change if the clutch is depressed or not.

jvictormp - Yes, replaced both the flywheel and clutch under warranty.

Any other thoughts?
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      04-21-2020, 09:08 PM   #19
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Turn back to the old fw/clutch kit and if the problem occurs again, it's something that happened during the procedure and you can stop worrying about the new kit.

For curiosity, how hard is it to turn back to the old kit? And how much time does it take?
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      04-22-2020, 11:17 AM   #20
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jvictormp - If you have a lift, its a long day for me. Say 8 hours or so.

Hardest part is lowering the single piece exhaust and raising the engine. Exhaust is just big and heavy, and you dont want to damage it. I remove the sub frame bolts to lower the engine for easier removal and installation of the transmission, but its not easy to put back in.

I am sure there a folks who have devised easier ways to attack those two things. I easily burn an hour on getting the engine sub frame reattached, and a half hr getting the exhaust off.

My plan is to go back to the original, but before I do, any other thoughts from anyone?
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      04-22-2020, 12:28 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exnoodle View Post
jvictormp - If you have a lift, its a long day for me. Say 8 hours or so.

Hardest part is lowering the single piece exhaust and raising the engine. Exhaust is just big and heavy, and you dont want to damage it. I remove the sub frame bolts to lower the engine for easier removal and installation of the transmission, but its not easy to put back in.

I am sure there a folks who have devised easier ways to attack those two things. I easily burn an hour on getting the engine sub frame reattached, and a half hr getting the exhaust off.

My plan is to go back to the original, but before I do, any other thoughts from anyone?
who changed the clutch and flywheel for you the first time? Ive seen a car that had the clutch and flywheel changed and a short while after the car developed a similar noise, the flywheel was contacting the block.
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      04-22-2020, 01:26 PM   #22
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amrazM - I replaced it both times.

Boy, it sure sounds like that, however can not find any evidence of that on the block or transmission. Would think you would see some metal flakes somewhere.

Any idea where to look? Would figure edges maybe.
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