Track forum general chit chat.

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by gmx

Not going full wire thinning yet since it's still a street car. But can seat modules be removed from cars with electric seats (memory, no heat) converting to manual seats? Or do the seat modules integrate other stuff in the car?

The seat modules are in the seat so they will be removed when you remove the stock seats. You'll need to code off various things to not throw errors but it's very possible.

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by chocstraw

someone talk me out of this, please. At ~$100 I can hardly resist, plus it looks like it has provisions for the original magnet in the OE DCT pans

If you pull the trigger, give us some updates!

[nsogiba]

Originally Posted by Redd

Alu brake duct backing plates. USD40.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNqd5Jw

You're welcome.

I have a set of these on the way. What's the duct size?

[StripclubDJ]

battery relocated

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

battery relocated

Might need to enclose the battery depending if you start racing or what club you run with. A lot of the clubs dont approve of a lithium battery chilling next to the driver

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

Might need to enclose the battery depending if you start racing or what club you run with. A lot of the clubs dont approve of a lithium battery chilling next to the driver

HPDE , you can sit the battery on your
lap and pass

[nsogiba]

Originally Posted by nsogiba

I have a set of these on the way. What's the duct size?

Got 'em in, inlet duct is 2". Gonna have to whip up an adapter. Not happy that it necks down from 2.5", but any cooling is better than no cooling.

[b4hand]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

HPDE , you can sit the battery on your
lap and pass

NASA still wants it to be covered but I agree

[okusa]

Originally Posted by b4hand

NASA still wants it to be covered but I agree

How would one cover it in that location?

[b4hand]

Originally Posted by okusa

How would one cover it in that location?

Battery box. They got on me about mine in the stock location because I removed that cheap plastic cover.

[Dean__Sanchez]

Did some things this weekend. Trying out a new plug n play steering wheel from ridgeline motorsport. Was $999 for DCT version and materials seem to be good quality. Also throwing on some track spec hood vents and N15 fender vents. (Measured a million and one times before cutting)

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by Dean__Sanchez

Did some things this weekend. Trying out a new plug n play steering wheel from ridgeline motorsport. Was $999 for DCT version and materials seem to be good quality. Also throwing on some track spec hood vents and N15 fender vents. (Measured a million and one times before cutting)

I've been super curious about that steering wheel... its almost half the price of the KMP.

Curious about your feedback.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

I've been super curious about that steering wheel... its almost half the price of the KMP.

Curious about your feedback.

realistically, its the same thing as their 4SW-1 which has standard button controls.

KMP just overs a wider range of button uses.

and uses a OMP wheel (private label)

other than that... same thing.

[Dean__Sanchez]

@1FastSicilian - will let you know once I have some time with it. Car is still being working on so haven't even used it yet.

Question for you track rats: what do you all do to cover up this wiring & hoses/tubes when the fender liners are removed? And what's this plug for/do you all relocate it?
*couldn't figure out how to rotate the first 2 photos.. .. first is passenger fender & second is driver fender. Both side have the plug at the top.

[omgzirra_exe]

important for those running SPL FLCA.

TO: Customers/drivers, builders/repair shops, and race teams

RE: Immediate and recurring inspection; torque setting & replacement of damaged cap bolts in aftermarket SPL front lower control arms: FLCA SKU’s: FLCA F8X, FLCAR F8X, FLCA E9X, FLCAR E9X, FLCA F3X, FLCAR F3X, FLCA G29, FLCA G8X, FLCA G8X IX, FLCA GT350, FLCA ATS, FLCA CAM6, FLCA S550

Effective Date: JULY 16TH, 2023 with cap bolt inspection, torque confirmation of 180/ft. Lbs or replacement before further use.

Description of Issue: SPL has received inquiries regarding bending and failures of cap bolts used in SPL front lower control arms. Information supplied to SPL indicates inadequate or un-retained torque of retaining nut/bolt to lower control arm may be contributing to bending and fatigue of grade-8 fasteners.

Recommended Action: Visually inspect cap bolt and control arm attachment points for bending, impact or other wear/distortion/damage; paying particular attention to the area where cap bolt threads exit retaining nut:

see link for more.

https://www.splparts.com/tsb-2301/

[slcook54]

Think I’m just going back to stock. Not worth the headache to me.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by Dean__Sanchez

@1FastSicilian - will let you know once I have some time with it. Car is still being working on so haven't even used it yet.

Question for you track rats: what do you all do to cover up this wiring & hoses/tubes when the fender liners are removed? And what's this plug for/do you all relocate it?
*couldn't figure out how to rotate the first 2 photos.. .. first is passenger fender & second is driver fender. Both side have the plug at the top.

I didnt cover up anything, and been driving that way for two years on track with no issues without fender liners.

Those plugs I am 99% sure are part of the air bag sensors. I ripped it all out of my car since I dont have any air bags or the control module in the car.

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by slcook54

Think I’m just going back to stock. Not worth the headache to me.

I was thinking the same thing as I was reading that.. why change it out and have ANOTHER thing to worry about during/leading up to a track day.

Hard pass.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

I was thinking the same thing as I was reading that.. why change it out and have ANOTHER thing to worry about during/leading up to a track day.

Hard pass.

They’re correcting geometry, which will a problem back on stock without other solutions.

Checking hardware seems oddly controversial, why wouldn’t make sure everything is torqued to spec and marked. Visual checks seem reasonable given the risks of the activity.

The “it’s too much hassle” crowd seems meh…

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by DRLane

They’re correcting geometry, which will a problem back on stock without other solutions.

Checking hardware seems oddly controversial, why wouldn’t make sure everything is torqued to spec and marked. Visual checks seem reasonable given the risks of the activity.

The “it’s too much hassle” crowd seems meh…

I guess if you're at that level of speed and tracking that frequently it's worth it.. For me, the stock arm is fine and I always do a once over before and after an event.. I'm just thinking, if I don't NEED it, then there's no point to add one more thing to "check".

If that makes any sense lol

[okusa]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

I guess if you're at that level of speed and tracking that frequently it's worth it.. For me, the stock arm is fine and I always do a once over before and after an event.. I'm just thinking, if I don't NEED it, then there's no point to add one more thing to "check".

If that makes any sense lol

Actually, I think it's just the opposite: if you're at that level of speed and tracking that frequently it's NOT worth it. At "that level of speed," which I am, i don't trust anything that requires that level of adjustment. It's always been and always be stock M parts for me.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by okusa

Actually, I think it's just the opposite: if you're at that level of speed and tracking that frequently it's NOT worth it. At "that level of speed," which I am, i don't trust anything that requires that level of adjustment. It's always been and always be stock M parts for me.

Well you’re probably in for a rude awakening having built a race car. 🤣 All jokes aside, I’ve heard this perspective repeatedly and mainly on this forum. But when you’ve made the investment in the car, event, accommodations etc. To not expect to once over the car as often as possible, you’re exposing a level of risk to your ability to compete and complete an event that would be unacceptable to me. The OEM parts are not immune to this, and definitely not when they’re put under a load they weren’t expecting.

You have to finish to win, and you have to start to even compete. Lots of examples where this didn’t work out. Reason why teams show up with stackers and staff…