DCT Stuck in Neutral, Clicking Repeatedly

[NoCarrier]

This one is a bit baffling. At the end of my drive home tonight I shifted the car into reverse, heard and felt a clunk, and the DCT shifted itself into neutral. The "secure vehicle against rolling" warning displayed. Shifting into reverse or drive did nothing - the transmission remained in neutral. And there was a loud repetitive clicking coming from under the gear selector - a loud plasticky click every 1.5-2 seconds that didn't stop until I turned the car off. I turned the car off and back on a few times, same result.

Went inside to do some googling and came up with nothing, so I went back out to get some video of it. Shifted into drive and reverse no problem that time. Drove fine. No clunking or clicking.

On one hand I'm relieved, on the other hand it was pretty disconcerting and I don't want to get stranded somewhere in neutral. Any ideas?

[sdbmwcoding]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

This one is a bit baffling. At the end of my drive home tonight I shifted the car into reverse, heard and felt a clunk, and the DCT shifted itself into neutral. The "secure vehicle against rolling" warning displayed. Shifting into reverse or drive did nothing - the transmission remained in neutral. And there was a loud repetitive clicking coming from under the gear selector - a loud plasticky click every 1.5-2 seconds that didn't stop until I turned the car off. I turned the car off and back on a few times, same result.

Went inside to do some googling and came up with nothing, so I went back out to get some video of it. Shifted into drive and reverse no problem that time. Drove fine. No clunking or clicking.

On one hand I'm relieved, on the other hand it was pretty disconcerting and I don't want to get stranded somewhere in neutral. Any ideas?

Are you sure the door wasn't open or in certain instances (dct software) the seat belt not plugged in?

[Route 16]

it's the start of your alternator/battery dying or aged, time to replace, I've had it twice within 2 years because I would change the battery twice, but not the alternator

[Redd]

When was the last time you checked/changed DCT fluid? Weird things can happen when fluid levels get low.

[NoCarrier]

Originally Posted by Route 16

it's the start of your alternator/battery dying or aged, time to replace, I've had it twice within 2 years because I would change the battery twice, but not the alternator

Interesting. I would think it would show up first with a reluctant start. The car starts up no problem. It just didn't want to shift out of neutral. So did you have this same problem with the clicking and everything?

[NoCarrier]

Originally Posted by sd*********

Are you sure the door wasn't open or in certain instances (dct software) the seat belt not plugged in?

Yep. It was at the end of my commute home, as I was backing into the garage. It just randomly threw itself into N.

Originally Posted by Redd

When was the last time you checked/changed DCT fluid? Weird things can happen when fluid levels get low.

I've been pretty on top of that, changing it every 30k miles. Last time was a year ago. Might not hurt to get the level checked though.

[sdbmwcoding]

Do you have access to a code reader? I'd scan the car and see if the EGS/Transmission module threw any codes

[NoCarrier]

Originally Posted by sd*********

Do you have access to a code reader? I'd scan the car and see if the EGS/Transmission module threw any codes

I would assume those are beyond the ability of a generic OBD2 reader?

[sdbmwcoding]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

I would assume those are beyond the ability of a generic OBD2 reader?

Correct. Most generic scanners will only ready dme/ecu codes. You'll want a reader that scans all modules. If you know anyone with bmw Carly those are great for scans. Android Protools is already good. Kdcan with ISTA is great.

[nyc_dude]

My DCT failed at 160k miles and it cost $15k new installed at the BMW dealer.

Recommend you visit AutoTalent in Gardena, CA. They will check your alternator/battery and replace either if bad. Valeo 180A OE alternator is only $400ish. That might do the trick. Low voltage could cause engine limp mode and DCT problems.

A bad fuel pump might also cause the DCT to go into N, but your engine would stall too, if that were the issue.

If you need a new DCT, AutoTalent might order a used low mileage DCT from deansbimmer in Texas (Mporium). He is a valued m3post member.

Rent a car at a nearby Enterprise in Torrance. They are near the Porsche Experience Center in Carson too make the trip worth it.

WoW, new DCT Fluid every 30k miles. So much for lifetime fluid. There is a plastic pump ($80) in the DCT that can be replaced with a fluid change. Wonder if that is the issue. A larger metal pump ($800) is in front behind the wet clutch ($2k-3k). Also look for leaks at the mechatronics unit or the round o-ring above that where the harness enters the DCT.

If your mileage is above 150k, then a replacement DCT is the safest option.
If your battery/alternator is more than 7-8 years old, replacing them is probably the simplest solution.

Good Luck,

Cheers

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

Interesting. I would think it would show up first with a reluctant start. The car starts up no problem. It just didn't want to shift out of neutral. So did you have this same problem with the clicking and everything?

EXACTLY the same steps you're talking about.
On top of the reluctant start...mine started up normal. I tried getting another mile or so to get to a safe curb and it went to N and clicking again. Even once I pulled over and wanted to drive a bit more, started up fine but again N and cliclicliclicliclic

[TomHudson]

What about electronic connections with switches in paddle shifters?
I seem to recall a similar issue on this forum, and it was traced back to faulty switches..

[Redd]

How old is your battery/alternator? When my alt died and the batt didn't charge I got stranded on the roadside and gearbox errors were among the lights I got.