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      01-21-2018, 09:21 PM   #23
DTremens
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I wasn't able to really access both the bolts to get the cylinder completely off.

So I tried to open the valve w. the box wrench I had and didn't have enough room to actually maneuver the wrench to open the valve. Going to try a ratcheting box wrench - that way I can still attach a hose to the valve instead of the fluid spilling all over the place
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      01-22-2018, 06:33 AM   #24
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I don’t recall any issues removing mine last time I bled it but it was a couple of years ago so I don’t recall the details. A deep socket or maybe a regular socket not fully inserted into the ratchet might work. Obviously use 1/4 drive and you may need a flex head. Ratcheting wrench is also a good idea, maybe a flex head. Have a can of brake clean available for cleanup.
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      01-22-2018, 08:25 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTremens View Post
I wasn't able to really access both the bolts to get the cylinder completely off.

So I tried to open the valve w. the box wrench I had and didn't have enough room to actually maneuver the wrench to open the valve. Going to try a ratcheting box wrench - that way I can still attach a hose to the valve instead of the fluid spilling all over the place
it's a pia to remove
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      01-22-2018, 12:34 PM   #26
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Thanks pbonsalb.

I'm going to give the ratcheting box wrench a try and see if it will forgo the need to remove the slave.
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      01-22-2018, 12:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwinm3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DTremens View Post
I wasn't able to really access both the bolts to get the cylinder completely off.

So I tried to open the valve w. the box wrench I had and didn't have enough room to actually maneuver the wrench to open the valve. Going to try a ratcheting box wrench - that way I can still attach a hose to the valve instead of the fluid spilling all over the place
it's a pia to remove
edwinm3, on jack stands I wasnt successful trying to remove the cylinder w. the tools I had. Do you have any additional recommendations you recall from when you did it with your e92? Did you fill the bleeder with brake fluid or just use it for pressure (like how you can with the brake bleeding) while keeping the reservoir topped off? Otherwise open the valve, pump the clutch and then close the valve and then pump clutch until it firms up again? I literally wasn't able to turn the box wrench enough to loosen the valve because it kept hitting the transmission housing- going to try the ratcheting one when it shows up. Thanks
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      01-22-2018, 02:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTremens View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwinm3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DTremens View Post
I wasn't able to really access both the bolts to get the cylinder completely off.

So I tried to open the valve w. the box wrench I had and didn't have enough room to actually maneuver the wrench to open the valve. Going to try a ratcheting box wrench - that way I can still attach a hose to the valve instead of the fluid spilling all over the place
it's a pia to remove
edwinm3, on jack stands I wasnt successful trying to remove the cylinder w. the tools I had. Do you have any additional recommendations you recall from when you did it with your e92? Did you fill the bleeder with brake fluid or just use it for pressure (like how you can with the brake bleeding) while keeping the reservoir topped off? Otherwise open the valve, pump the clutch and then close the valve and then pump clutch until it firms up again? I literally wasn't able to turn the box wrench enough to loosen the valve because it kept hitting the transmission housing- going to try the ratcheting one when it shows up. Thanks
Use a 1/4" drive socket that fits and turn it a bit to an angle where you could get the wrench on it
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      01-22-2018, 02:44 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwinm3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DTremens View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwinm3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DTremens View Post
I wasn't able to really access both the bolts to get the cylinder completely off.

So I tried to open the valve w. the box wrench I had and didn't have enough room to actually maneuver the wrench to open the valve. Going to try a ratcheting box wrench - that way I can still attach a hose to the valve instead of the fluid spilling all over the place
it's a pia to remove
edwinm3, on jack stands I wasnt successful trying to remove the cylinder w. the tools I had. Do you have any additional recommendations you recall from when you did it with your e92? Did you fill the bleeder with brake fluid or just use it for pressure (like how you can with the brake bleeding) while keeping the reservoir topped off? Otherwise open the valve, pump the clutch and then close the valve and then pump clutch until it firms up again? I literally wasn't able to turn the box wrench enough to loosen the valve because it kept hitting the transmission housing- going to try the ratcheting one when it shows up. Thanks
Use a 1/4" drive socket that fits and turn it a bit to an angle where you could get the wrench on it
iirc i left the bleeder on so no air got in
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      01-22-2018, 03:03 PM   #30
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Thanks! I'll give that a shot
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      01-23-2018, 10:22 AM   #31
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Thanks! I'll give that a shot
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      04-01-2018, 02:02 AM   #32
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I'm going to re-kindle this thread with what worked and didnt work for me.
Schwaben bleeder hooked up with no fluid, 12psi, bleed screw...Did not work.
2 person, no pressure bleeder, 6 rounds of clutch depress/hold, loosen bleed screw...Did work, but no surprise E92 M3 clutch still the softest around, but at least I know there is no air causing it.
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      04-12-2018, 03:26 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoChris View Post
I'm going to re-kindle this thread with what worked and didnt work for me.
Schwaben bleeder hooked up with no fluid, 12psi, bleed screw...Did not work.
2 person, no pressure bleeder, 6 rounds of clutch depress/hold, loosen bleed screw...Did work, but no surprise E92 M3 clutch still the softest around, but at least I know there is no air causing it.
I haven't done the clutch myself yet, but if I am reading everything correctly (and the method I am going to try), your first method still requires pumping the clutch pedal
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      06-26-2018, 09:57 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoChris View Post
I'm going to re-kindle this thread with what worked and didnt work for me.
Schwaben bleeder hooked up with no fluid, 12psi, bleed screw...Did not work.
2 person, no pressure bleeder, 6 rounds of clutch depress/hold, loosen bleed screw...Did work, but no surprise E92 M3 clutch still the softest around, but at least I know there is no air causing it.
Has anyone gotten a power bleeder to work with a clutch bleed without having a second person to pump the clutch pedal?
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      06-26-2018, 01:21 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Has anyone gotten a power bleeder to work with a clutch bleed without having a second person to pump the clutch pedal?
I "gravity" bleed my clutch overnight and it worked out fine, so I'd think a pressure bleeder like Motive would work, just faster. I think someone said in this thread it didn't work for them, but maybe they didn't open the bleed screw far enough. If I recall correctly, I think it opened it with at least 2 full turns. Used ATE blue to ATE yellow so I knew it was all new fluid in the slave.
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      06-26-2018, 01:29 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidZ View Post
I "gravity" bleed my clutch overnight and it worked out fine, so I'd think a pressure bleeder like Motive would work, just faster. I think someone said in this thread it didn't work for them, but maybe they didn't open the bleed screw far enough. If I recall correctly, I think it opened it with at least 2 full turns. Used ATE blue to ATE yellow so I knew it was all new fluid in the slave.
That's what I was thinking as well, since it wasn't making much sense...

How did you make sure that the MC reservoir was always full, as you bled overnight?
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      06-26-2018, 03:05 PM   #37
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Quote:
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That's what I was thinking as well, since it wasn't making much sense...

How did you make sure that the MC reservoir was always full, as you bled overnight?
This was years ago so I don't really remember. I probably used one of those plastic bottles with a long nozzle you can fill with fluid and place inverted over the reservoir to automatically top off if you were doing a normal 2 person flush, although I'm not sure if that's guaranteed to keep the fluid level above the clutch pickup line.
If I were to do it again, I guess I'd fill the reservoir to the very top and keep topping it off every half hour or so until I was satisfied with the amount of fluid accumulated in the catch bottle.
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      06-27-2018, 02:16 AM   #38
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Quote:
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Has anyone gotten a power bleeder to work with a clutch bleed without having a second person to pump the clutch pedal?
I could not get the pb to work without a helper. Oh well.
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      06-28-2018, 08:43 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by MSteve5036 View Post
I haven't done the clutch myself yet, but if I am reading everything correctly (and the method I am going to try), your first method still requires pumping the clutch pedal
Why would it require pumping where as brakes do not? Is it because of the slave cylinder? Is the check-valve confirmed?

Trying to determine best way to tackle this without getting air in the lines, as I likely will not have a second person to help.
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      06-28-2018, 10:46 AM   #40
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I could not get the pb to work without a helper. Oh well.
Did you unscrew the clutch bleeder screw two full turns?
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      06-28-2018, 08:02 PM   #41
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There was a check valve on my 09. It was a one man job to bleed the clutch.
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      06-29-2018, 02:44 AM   #42
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Quote:
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Did you unscrew the clutch bleeder screw two full turns?
I dont recall exactly, but it certainly needed to be open more than the brake screws.
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      06-30-2018, 05:15 PM   #43
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Quote:
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Did you unscrew the clutch bleeder screw two full turns?
I dont recall exactly, but it certainly needed to be open more than the brake screws.
^this
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      07-10-2018, 11:18 AM   #44
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I can confirm that I was able to bleed my clutch fluid using the Motive Power Bleeder. I just made sure to siphon out the old fluid from my MC and topped it all the way to max capacity with new brake fluid before attaching my power bleeder.

The bleeder screw requires 1-2 full turns before fluid dripped out. Using an offset wrench was necessary.
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