Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[ludalex]

Personally I am waiting for an NBT version of the system, as I basically have a 2014 F20 with CIC HU but with NBT connectors.

Here is, for anyone interested, what mr12volt had to say about it (I inquired about new DSP too):

normal P2000 with DSP will be released in Q2 Q3
P2000 for NBT, more likely to be towards end of 2022

Moreover, I have a question for everyone: do you think I need to code out the SVS iDrive function to activate Siri via the steering wheel button even though I don't have BMW voice commands in my car? Pushing the button does absolutely nothing at the moment.

[finbarr.cnaipe]

Originally Posted by ludalex

Personally I am waiting for an NBT version of the system, as I basically have a 2014 F20 with CIC HU but with NBT connectors.

Here is, for anyone interested, what mr12volt had to say about it (I inquired about new DSP too):


Moreover, I have a question for everyone: do you think I need to code out the SVS iDrive function to activate Siri via the steering wheel button even though I don't have BMW voice commands in my car? Pushing the button does absolutely nothing at the moment.

I thought NBT had CarPlay natively, is that just EVO? (Doesn't matter to me, as I'm not interested in the "car" parts of new BMW models. The new is supposed to be better than the old...not compromised. I consider any Turbo Engine to be "compromised" over my Aspirated V6. Plus I absolutely HATE the steering on later models compared to my 2008.

Don't know about SVS for your car. I know I got my Bimmer Code ODBII setup today, and was able to code the Digital Speedometer and Roof (e93) control (Top down only/Windows up/down/Mirrors fold/unfold so far). I was unable to find the right SVS settings so far for my 2008 CCC E93 based on the BimmerCode instructions here:

Headunit -> Expert Mode -> 3000 HMI
Find SVS option and change it to nicht active
CODE -> START CODING

I don't have that exact match in my BimmerCode Expert settings. I need to look around in the app to see if I can find it somewhere. I changed a couple of "SVS" things, but they did not stop Car SVS. when pushing the steering wheel button....no Siri, and just got the US BMW voice prompts. (I'm thinking my CCC version is different from CCI M3 version. I'd say if the button isn't doing anything today, then you probably won't need to code SVS out. (nicht activ)

[6spdvert]

Originally Posted by finbarr.cnaipe

Hi Folks,

I am the original owner of a CCC 2008 328i E93. Just 39K mi, and honestly, it is garage kept and still looks and smells brand new.

I just wanted to thank everybody who contributed to this thread. I've upgraded from my iPod Connection kit/Tune2Air to Mr12Volt, and am very happy. I was looking for this kind of solution (MOST/No AUX; input method like Tune2Air) for a couple of years. Was VERY happy to find out about Mr12Volt, and it was VASTLY less expensive that doing an Nbt/Evo Refit (quoted to me @~$6K!)

I spent spare time doing the install, and most of the "Fun" was taking apart my dash and learning how everything goes together in my BMW. Took me a week to do everything and get the car back together, with A1 fit and finish...but I did it!

My observations:
- It is working great, and I did not have to do any coding.

- I got the newer version P2000, and did have to experiment with the dip switches to get my CCC controller wheel to work. With all dip switches off, I only had up/down/left/right and push/enter. I can't remember if it was DIP 1 or 2, but I had to enable one of those to get the rotary motion recognized.

- No coding required so far. (But I'm going to be adding in to disable SVS with Bimmer Code, once my ODBII adapter comes this week)

- My Car is L7 audio, and I can't say I notice a difference between Tune2Air and Mr12volt audio and bass...but I need to do more listening.

- Getting the head unit back in took about 4x tries with cabling rerouting. I ended up having to put the quadlock all the way back and to the right of the cage. Finally got it.

- LVDS cable from screen is way sucky short, and there was absolutely NO WAY it was going to work routing it like the guy does in the mr12volt CCC install video. I ended up having to move it to the right of the cage, and up on top (to the left of driver's cup holder). Then I was able to sort of wedge the Mr12volt between the right side of the cage and driver's cup holder.

- Due to the above, it is going to be royal pain to update the Firmware via the SD card. Even an extender wouldn't help, as you have to remove the power connection for the upgrade process. So tearing apart the dash again is going to be the only way to get to the unit to upgrade. (I actually looked to see if I could source a 10pin CCC LVDS extension cable, but could not find one online.) In the meantime, I was able to route the USB cable to the glove box appropriately...so SW updates should not be a prob... If I can find the 10pin LVDS extension cable, I will probably move Mr12Volt into the glove box eventually...provided I can get the cables thru the hole...lol...

- CCC version mr12volt CarPlay resolution/display is completely acceptable. Would i like to have a better screen? Sure. But other than the theoretical solution presented earlier in this thread, I don't see any way to do it without CIC refit or introducing another MMI into the mix. If there was a MOST solution CarPlay MMI w/new screen for CCC, I believe folks would buy that...until then, mr12volt CCC is the best solution and value.

Anyway, thanks again. You guys don't know how much I appreciated this thread when doing my upgrade. You guys are the best!

Finny.

that is honestly, great to hear that no coding was involved. Was that due to you having a CDC in the car?

I, on the other hand, was not as successful. I have an 08 E93 as well but no CDC and coding it has been a chore.. lol

going to give bimmercode another whirl to see if I can get the cdcmp3 setup..

[finbarr.cnaipe]

Originally Posted by 6spdvert

that is honestly, great to hear that no coding was involved. Was that due to you having a CDC in the car?

I, on the other hand, was not as successful. I have an 08 E93 as well but no CDC and coding it has been a chore.. lol

going to give bimmercode another whirl to see if I can get the cdcmp3 setup..

I had the dealer install the iPod Connection kit when I bought the car. That takes the place of the CD Changer kit, and they tucked the box behind the dash...almost in the same place I stashed the Mr12Volt. Somewhere around 2013 (i think), I added a Tune2Air to the iPod connection cable, and it worked REALLY well as wireless player from my iPhone....of course, that is because it was also over MOST bus just like Mr12Volt P2000. So, there was no need to code the cdchanger in...

But, displacing the iPod connection Kit was also a bit of fun learning exercise, as there are splices involved from the QuadLock and MOST circuit. There is also a long cable added. As that was the case, I had to use the Mr12Volt included MOST Loop. Between the iPod Connection kit cable and added MOST loop, there was extensive "extra" cabling that I rolled up (carefully) and strategically stashed away behind the dash. I had contemplated removing the iPod connection kit cable, but couldn't figure out an easy way to get the Fiber Optics out of the junction they used...I was afraid I would break the fiber cable or muck up the end(s). There is a picture here earlier in the thread with somebody who had the same iPod Connector kit they removed for Mr12Volt install. They were able to get that cable "unspliced" and removed from their install...making less cable mess to deal with. If I ever (or let's say "when") I open the dash up again, I may try to get rid of the iPod kit cable....

I looked for that CD changer parameter with BimmerCode Expert mode just to verify the coding, but could not find it. Same with the SVS parameter... But I'm brand new to BimmerCode and coding in general, so will continue to look around... In the meantime, everything is working to my satisfaction, INCLUDING my new found ability to open the Roof on my E93 from the keyfob without comfort access. Jury is still out whether or not I'll be able to code closing it...I have FM3, and posts here pretty much deem it impossible with later BMW updates to the system. SmartTop may be in my future...we'll see... But Mr12Volt P2000 is working perfectly for my intended use case (Waze/Maps Nav + Music and/or streaming/PodCasts + occasional MS Teams meeting/calls ....Oh and phone calls and Messaging announcements. I'm very, very pleased.

Finny



I

[tennisman94]

Originally Posted by finbarr.cnaipe

...

But, displacing the iPod connection Kit was also a bit of fun learning exercise, as there are splices involved from the QuadLock and MOST circuit. There is also a long cable added. As that was the case, I had to use the Mr12Volt included MOST Loop. Between the iPod Connection kit cable and added MOST loop, there was extensive "extra" cabling that I rolled up (carefully) and strategically stashed away behind the dash. I had contemplated removing the iPod connection kit cable, but couldn't figure out an easy way to get the Fiber Optics out of the junction they used...I was afraid I would break the fiber cable or muck up the end(s). There is a picture here earlier in the thread with somebody who had the same iPod Connector kit they removed for Mr12Volt install. They were able to get that cable "unspliced" and removed from their install...making less cable mess to deal with. If I ever (or let's say "when") I open the dash up again, I may try to get rid of the iPod kit cable....
...

You could actually probably remove the mr12volt MOST wire to clean things up. Put the ipod conection kit MOST directly into the p2000 (using the bigger plug from the mr12volt wire) and the quadlock MOST into the new quadlock. MOST is a loop so the Mr12volt wire is their version of the junction.

[finbarr.cnaipe]

Originally Posted by tennisman94

You could actually probably remove the mr12volt MOST wire to clean things up. Put the ipod conection kit MOST directly into the p2000 (using the bigger plug from the mr12volt wire) and the quadlock MOST into the new quadlock. MOST is a loop so the Mr12volt wire is their version of the junction.

Yeah, that is a good point. I was so focused on removing the iPod connection kit cable, I didn't think about it that way... But you are spot-on...

On the other hand, that iPod Connection kit cable is really long, and space being at a premium to route everything, I would probably still ultimately prefer to just remove that iPod connection kit cable completely. But to do that, I'll still have to figure out how to get the MOST splice they used "un-spliced" without breaking the optic cable or messing up the ends. For the life of me, I could not see/figure-out how to get the little cylinder apart they used. I was able to get the little box open, but the plastic cylinder inside looked like a "single use" part to mate the MOST cables...

I'll revisit the hookups when I tear the dash apart again someday. In the meantime, mr12volt is working well...

On to the next projects: 2.4Ghz Backup cam install in trunk (already connected the in-dash side to mr12volt), and install of SmartTop mod.

[dar2008]

I guess if you already have a CD Changer, and don't want to lose that option / functionality, then this unit's no good?

Or is there another way to code it as an input to the car, separate from the CD Changer, whilst still utilising the MOST?

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by dar2008

I guess if you already have a CD Changer, and don't want to lose that option / functionality, then this unit's no good?

Or is there another way to code it as an input to the car, separate from the CD Changer, whilst still utilising the MOST?

Unfortunately not. The p2000 emulates a cd changer. It cannot exist side by side with an existing cd changer.

If the CIC/CCC system was capable of supporting 2 cd changers simultaneously, then maybe, but it does not.

[GtiGyver]

Could someone please post the instructions/scans of the new P2000 light model ?

Thanks

[SocalM3]

I just realized that when I tried to input some text via the keyboard, I cannot scroll down to the keyboard to type in anything. Does anyone else have the same issue? Any fix?

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by SocalM3

I just realized that when I tried to input some text via the keyboard, I cannot scroll down to the keyboard to type in anything. Does anyone else have the same issue? Any fix?

Actually, I noticed the same thing. I can't seem to use the on screen keyboard with the scroll wheel anywhere in carplay. The only scenario where I've honestly tried this was entering a navigation address. In that scenario, I ended up just entering it on the phone.

Haven't really dug into it, and I don't recall anybody else reporting it. Interesting that I am not alone.

[danbav]

I’m running p2000 light cic version with individual audio. Volume level is much lower than other Idrive inputs. I have to crank the volume up. If i switch back to idrive audio the volume is much louder than what is being supplied by mr12volt unit. Anyone else notice this?

[Tony B]

Could I confirm a couple of things regarding the rear-view camera?

- If the car has factory front/rear PDC, is it still necessary to wire in a camera trigger signal (e.g. reversing lights) or is there a necessary trigger in the MOST data stream, which will be going through the Mr12Volt box?

- Camera power - what is the best (or easiest...) power source? Given that the trunk handle must have power in it anyway, is there an easy connection possibility here?

[ToddinTN]

Did my install this afternoon, lite version on a 2011 E93 M3. CIC, no CD changer. It took a moment to get started, but worked without coding and I had no notable loss of bass.

One oddity- the unit seems to be continuously trying to connect to my phone, even with the car off and key inside the house. I’m in the bonus room above my garage and my phone keeps connecting to the car. I tuned off my Bluetooth on the phone to stop it until I need it.

Anyone experienced similar constant connection attempts when the car is off?

[Raphc]

Originally Posted by Tony B

Could I confirm a couple of things regarding the rear-view camera?

- If the car has factory front/rear PDC, is it still necessary to wire in a camera trigger signal (e.g. reversing lights) or is there a necessary trigger in the MOST data stream, which will be going through the Mr12Volt box?

- Camera power - what is the best (or easiest...) power source? Given that the trunk handle must have power in it anyway, is there an easy connection possibility here?

Trigger wire is not necessary and is configured in the unit itself. Depending on what car you have and wether its Auto or manual. For example,I have a manual E82 and have it set up to Aftermarket camera, and "parking key". This means everytime my PDC comes on the camera comes up on the screen (either by selcting reverse or pressing the PDC button)

If using the GreenYi camera recommended multiple times here, you will power it directly from the P2000 unit. The camera comes with an Video?power cabel (RCA + red wire) The RCA is clearily the camera input and the red wire needs to be connected to teh P2000,s "rear camera +ve" cable. A ground connection is not required

[Raphc]

Originally Posted by ToddinTN

Did my install this afternoon, lite version on a 2011 E93 M3. CIC, no CD changer. It took a moment to get started, but worked without coding and I had no notable loss of bass.

One oddity- the unit seems to be continuously trying to connect to my phone, even with the car off and key inside the house. I’m in the bonus room above my garage and my phone keeps connecting to the car. I tuned off my Bluetooth on the phone to stop it until I need it.

Anyone experienced similar constant connection attempts when the car is off?

I have this issue as well. Seems to take 15-30mins for the car to fully put the unit to sleep

[S55_M3]

Originally Posted by Raphc

I have this issue as well. Seems to take 15-30mins for the car to fully put the unit to sleep

I posted my experience with this same issue a few pages back. I ultimately removed mine and sold it. It was terribly annoying and I was experiencing low battery voltage as well.

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by Raphc

Trigger wire is not necessary and is configured in the unit itself. Depending on what car you have and wether its Auto or manual. For example,I have a manual E82 and have it set up to Aftermarket camera, and "parking key". This means everytime my PDC comes on the camera comes up on the screen (either by selcting reverse or pressing the PDC button)

If using the GreenYi camera recommended multiple times here, you will power it directly from the P2000 unit. The camera comes with an Video?power cabel (RCA + red wire) The RCA is clearily the camera input and the red wire needs to be connected to teh P2000,s "rear camera +ve" cable. A ground connection is not required

Many thanks for confirming on these 2 points - they make the install much easier, so much so that I am going to have to stop stalling, and get on with it!

[Jerezblack.m3]

did they fix the bass issue yet?

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by Jerezblack.m3

did they fix the bass issue yet?

Bass issue will not be fixed in the current hardware. (P2000 or P2000 lite). Search the thread for more details as it's been covered.

Mr12volt states the bass issue will be fixed in the next version of the box which will contain a new DSP and processor, which is due sometime in the middle of the year.

If you have not purchased yet, I would absolutely hold off until the next version of the box comes out.

[Raphc]

Originally Posted by Tony B

Many thanks for confirming on these 2 points - they make the install much easier, so much so that I am going to have to stop stalling, and get on with it!

Good luck. Hardest bit was getting the wires through the rubber cable conduit between boot lid and the car. Taping the cable to a coat hanger and a bit of soap/oil makes it possible

[Jerezblack.m3]

Originally Posted by drwankel

Bass issue will not be fixed in the current hardware. (P2000 or P2000 lite). Search the thread for more details as it's been covered.

Mr12volt states the bass issue will be fixed in the next version of the box which will contain a new DSP and processor, which is due sometime in the middle of the year.

If you have not purchased yet, I would absolutely hold off until the next version of the box comes out.

Thanks! I will hold off for now. It can wait