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      06-21-2020, 10:14 PM   #1255
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Nick Myers, former CM National Champ, showed up two weeks ago at a local with a lightly ESP prepped M3. The guys are coming with that prep and it will prove to be a beast. Richbot has already run 295's or wider on stock wheels, and it's very easy to see where the diet starts (seats, battery, exhaust.....). On top of that, the car would really gain power with a CAT delete, proper header, and custom tune.
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      06-22-2020, 09:45 AM   #1256
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I think a 315 on an 11 might be doable IF you run a ton of camber and can keep from breaking the plastic fenders but the front end might have to be too stiff to make it worthwhile - good thing is, the front fenders are just bolt-on deals so if you need flares, that's not such a headache to swap out the stock ones. If you give the 315 enough wheel to make it "happy" I don't really see how it would fit without flares. But I'd love to see that, if I'mw rong, it'd be awesome. 315 on a stock-offset 9.5 was fine in back, never even close to touching anything. On a 12 I think you'd need to massage some stuff but doubt flares would be needed with careful offset and a stiff/low setup

The ponycars gain almost 40 more whp from SP mods than an E9xM stands to gain. Displacement matters a lot, and they're all making a lot less specific output from the factory, so there's a lot more headroom. I wouldn't expect SP to unlock more than 10-15 more whp than an STU build. The (newer) ponies are also all heavier and wider by a good bit though so I don't think that's such a big deal
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      06-22-2020, 11:10 AM   #1257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z3papa View Post
Nick Myers, former CM National Champ, showed up two weeks ago at a local with a lightly ESP prepped M3. The guys are coming with that prep and it will prove to be a beast. Richbot has already run 295's or wider on stock wheels, and it's very easy to see where the diet starts (seats, battery, exhaust.....). On top of that, the car would really gain power with a CAT delete, proper header, and custom tune.
I personally still feel the jury's out on the cat delete/headers/custom tune vs. off-the-shelf tune with hi-flow or no-cats being enough gains to make the nearly 3k investment in the headers/tune worthwhile. There's not enough data yet I don't think.
My car was catless last year initially and I recently made it actually STU legal by adding legal hi-flow cats back in. I really don't think there has been much of a power loss with that change. I'll dyno it at some point soon for NASA and compare. I have a dyno from before when it was catless I can refer back to.
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      06-24-2020, 01:48 PM   #1258
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Updated proposal for the STU changes in the latest FasTrack. It's a step in the right direction, not perfect, but making progress
https://www.scca.com/downloads/50671...track/download
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      06-24-2020, 03:17 PM   #1259
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ST starting to look like light prep SP with the boost and various power train mods.

Might not be popular but I think ST should be on bolt-on suspension mods only with largely stock powertrain. Save engine mods for SP-lite.
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      06-28-2020, 12:04 AM   #1260
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So... 285 Bridgestones.

Last year my car didn't rotate as much as I'd like under lift throttle even after I dialed out some rear camber, so this year I decided to switch from 275 Bridgestone fronts to 285s.

I was under the impression that 285s would improve the front-end grip, so at our first event of the year today, I was surprised to find that my car was really pushy in transition. As soon as I turned in, the fronts would start howling in protest, and the car would immediately settle into persistent understeer. Watching my video, I often had close to 180 degrees of steering lock dialed in in transitions, which was rarely if ever the case last year on 275 fronts.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Do 285s not transition as well as 275s? Do they just need a heat cycle on them before they come in? (This was my first event on them, but despite what some people say, I've never found Bridgestones to be bad in their first event. Maybe I just never noticed before since I'd previously run Bridgestones on all four corners, whereas this year I'm running Yoks in back.) Am I just rusty and overdriving the hell out the front end of my car?
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      06-28-2020, 12:17 AM   #1261
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My experience is that the Bridgestones need a heat cycle to come in. Give it another event to draw conclusions
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      06-28-2020, 05:18 AM   #1262
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The date in the video title is 2019 so might want to correct that.

I've only run two different cars on one set of RE71Rs on each, and I didn't have any major scrub-in/heat cycle needed. I think I see what you mean toward the last half of the course.

Have you ever driven at that location before? And if so, on that same pavement area? I'm thinking back to an airport course years ago where there were two different pavements, both old, and when you made the transition mid-cornering the car instantly starting understeering from what was a nice clean posture.

What is the actual tire size now? 285/30-18 all around? Versus 275/35-18?
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      06-28-2020, 07:00 AM   #1263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedalFaster View Post
So... 285 Bridgestones.

Last year my car didn't rotate as much as I'd like under lift throttle even after I dialed out some rear camber, so this year I decided to switch from 275 Bridgestone fronts to 285s.

I was under the impression that 285s would improve the front-end grip, so at our first event of the year today, I was surprised to find that my car was really pushy in transition. As soon as I turned in, the fronts would start howling in protest, and the car would immediately settle into persistent understeer. Watching my video, I often had close to 180 degrees of steering lock dialed in in transitions, which was rarely if ever the case last year on 275 fronts.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Do 285s not transition as well as 275s? Do they just need a heat cycle on them before they come in? (This was my first event on them, but despite what some people say, I've never found Bridgestones to be bad in their first event. Maybe I just never noticed before since I'd previously run Bridgestones on all four corners, whereas this year I'm running Yoks in back.) Am I just rusty and overdriving the hell out the front end of my car?
Tested 285 square last year on 18x10’s at Mineral Wells
Yeah they need a heat cycle and scrub-in, but even still. It did not work for my car either. Main issue I had was them being too short for DCT gearing so opted for the 265 square Yoko’s. But the car is really under-tired on those I think for the weight it was at on the first set (3700lbs w/driver) I’ve lightened up the car on the current set I have but wear seems similar after about 20 runs.
275 Goodyear would probably be my next buy. But after driving them on the Vette this weekend the jury for me is still out on how I feel about their driving characteristics. I’m holding out hope of testing the new Falken in a 275 if they make it in stock by around August like I’ve heard.
Idk, with three cars to choose from for me to autox right now, STU M3 is on the back burner until we can get bigger tires I think. Index in Ladies class for me is an uphill battle. Good thing the setup still makes it a super fun track car and decently competitive TT3 car
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      06-28-2020, 11:41 AM   #1264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
Have you ever driven at that location before? And if so, on that same pavement area?
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Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
What is the actual tire size now? 285/30-18 all around? Versus 275/35-18?
Yep, that's our main site, so I've done dozens of events there, and hundreds of runs. This is my second year in this car, and I don't remember ever having this much push before. Then again, my codriver said the car was too loose, which (along with the amount of steering lock I was using) suggests that I was just asking too much of the front end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
What is the actual tire size now? 285/30-18 all around? Versus 275/35-18?
Pretty goofy. Last year I split my season between 275/35R18 Bridgestones on all four corners, and 275 Bridgestones front / 265 Yokohamas rear.

This year I'm running 285 Bridgestones front / 265 Yokohamas rear. I was expecting the car to potentially be super loose, so the push was a big surprise.

I guess I'll give it another event as Tommysalami suggested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
The date in the video title is 2019 so might want to correct that.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelse92 View Post
275 Goodyear would probably be my next buy. But after driving them on the Vette this weekend the jury for me is still out on how I feel about their driving characteristics.
What didn't you like about them?
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      06-28-2020, 02:45 PM   #1265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedalFaster View Post

This year I'm running 285 Bridgestones front / 265 Yokohamas rear. I was expecting the car to potentially be super loose, so the push was a big surprise.
...
What didn't you like about them?
I’m not surprised you got push from that setup. I thought about it, but didn’t think it was worth testing. 285 Stone is more front grip compared to the 265 Yoko rear I would think. So agree it should have worked in theory, but Stones have the softer sidewall and would expect mount a hair wider and pinched up front if you’re on FS wheels. I would guess pushy turns/sweepers and loose corner exits which is probably what you feel in terms of looseness. Too much front grip. I think the transitions on the shorter tire were less crisp too. The 275/35 vs 285/30 Bridgestone are nearly an inch different height.
I would personally try a rear spacer to help out the front.
———
In regards to Goodyear’s, just very inconsistent with grip. Car was pushy AND loose. Very difficult to transition and slalom when on Stones the car was precise. KJ seemed happy with his on his M3 though. And the BS M2’s that run them speak highly of them as well. I think the difference may be in construction of tire in the bigger 300+ sizes that are on the Vette.
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      06-29-2020, 04:00 PM   #1266
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Adding overall grip, can, paridoxically, cause a push even if you've only added more grip to the front, you now have enuogh grip to warm the rear tires and get them to show up to the party earlier, or you're rolling differently so you're in a different part ofthe camebr/toe curve for each corner than you were before, or or or. And influences on balance can be different depending on the phase of the corner, the way a driver moves weight around, etc.

Soooo I wouldn't despair just yet. Testing testing testing. And brand new stones are known to be problem children.
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      06-30-2020, 08:33 PM   #1267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedalFaster View Post
So... 285 Bridgestones.

Last year my car didn't rotate as much as I'd like under lift throttle even after I dialed out some rear camber, so this year I decided to switch from 275 Bridgestone fronts to 285s.

I was under the impression that 285s would improve the front-end grip, so at our first event of the year today, I was surprised to find that my car was really pushy in transition. As soon as I turned in, the fronts would start howling in protest, and the car would immediately settle into persistent understeer. Watching my video, I often had close to 180 degrees of steering lock dialed in in transitions, which was rarely if ever the case last year on 275 fronts.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Do 285s not transition as well as 275s? Do they just need a heat cycle on them before they come in? (This was my first event on them, but despite what some people say, I've never found Bridgestones to be bad in their first event. Maybe I just never noticed before since I'd previously run Bridgestones on all four corners, whereas this year I'm running Yoks in back.) Am I just rusty and overdriving the hell out the front end of my car?
WTF --285 squared setup was tremendously easy to drive at the limit but lost top speed in second, and could be overheated if not temp. managed. If you are running 295 Yoks in the rear, it's going to put some pressure on the fronts as the mid-apex grip is off the charts.
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      07-02-2020, 11:18 PM   #1268
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Brand new here to the forums. I'm looking at getting into a 2011-2013 E92 6spd Competition Package and have been looking on and off over the years, and again more seriously in the recent weeks.

Are there any other places anyone would recommend looking at besides here, autotrader, facebook marketplace, and regional scca forums? I'm not quite ready to pull the trigger just yet, but trying to do as much research as I can for market values so I have a ballpark idea of what is a good deal versus over-paying. For example, is 35-39k on the high side for a ~50k 2013 manual zcp e92, or is that typically what they go for? Or is that price reserved for a single-hump dash with even lower miles?

I did solo regionally with the Utah region from 2011-2014, took a bit of a hiatus and am just now getting back into it again. My short-term goal for next year is to be competitive in top 10 pax again for my region, and as I get better eventually to compete in more national events (including Lincoln). Long story short, my region has succumbed to massive venue loss over the years (like some others) and we have been reduced to mainly asphalt courses vs high-grip concrete that we used to have. The pax gap between race tire and street tire has been reduced even further, and I don't see it getting better any time soon. For now I'm going to work at getting my driving ability back to what it used to be for the rest of this season, and for 2021 hopefully start fresh in F Street in an M.

I raced a converted em1 turbo civic on 275 hoosiers in SMF for a bit back in the day doing a few pro solos and one match tour and did well locally placing 9th and 7th in pax for my region but never ended up getting to go as far as I wanted to with it before the engine started to let go, and life events got in the way of things. Now I've started to play around again recently with an 06 g35 coupe but have started to realize the platform can't even be competitive locally in STU with the likes of evos, stis, focus rs, etc. I lost interest in the civic because RWD has been more fun than FWD, even with less horsepower. Which brings me here looking into my next platform to get back into top 10 pax noticing how much the e92 comp dominates F Street, the softer pax index, and how much easier things will be on the wallet long-term with a stock class on street tires, whilst being able to daily drive the car.

I don't know, there's just something really appealing about a stock class car that I can drive back and forth to work and hoon around on the weekends, opposed to a street touring or street mod class where I'm constantly breaking/fixing things, or working on the car more than I would like to.
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      07-05-2020, 05:42 PM   #1269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedalFaster View Post
So... 285 Bridgestones.

my car was really pushy in transition.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Do 285s not transition as well as 275s? Do they just need a heat cycle on them before they come in? (This was my first event on them, but despite what some people say, I've never found Bridgestones to be bad in their first event. Maybe I just never noticed before since I'd previously run Bridgestones on all four corners, whereas this year I'm running Yoks in back.) Am I just rusty and overdriving the hell out the front end of my car?
Had two events in the car this weekend. Its balance was right where I want it stable under power, but willing to rotate with either more throttle or a lift.

I figure the push in the first event was because the Bridgestones needed an event to wake up, which Id never noticed before because Id never mixed new Bridgestones with another tire brand before.
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      07-28-2020, 10:10 PM   #1270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PedalFaster View Post
Had two events in the car this weekend. Its balance was right where I want it stable under power, but willing to rotate with either more throttle or a lift.

I figure the push in the first event was because the Bridgestones needed an event to wake up, which Id never noticed before because Id never mixed new Bridgestones with another tire brand before.
Someone running a mixed set of Bridgehamas. Wonder where that came from?
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      07-29-2020, 12:06 PM   #1271
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Someone running a mixed set of Bridgehamas. Wonder where that came from?
Which size rears were you running Clark?
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      07-29-2020, 09:55 PM   #1272
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Which size rears were you running Clark?
Yoks 295/30-18. Fronts were 285/30-18 Bridgestones. Scrubbed, the fronts hold up so much better than the Yokohama 265/35-18's. If you have ever had the 295 rears, you would be shocked at the threshold of grip they offered. For anyone concerned about mixing the brands, the fronts get warm easily, while the rears on the M3 are slow to come to temp. The Yoks don't need heat to be at peak performance but their softer sidewall makes them poorer in transition. Because we have a 9" wheel up front, your choice is to go 265 square (Ido/Tony setup) which is a bit lacking putting power down in the rear but is balanced, or run a 265/295 stagger (terrible idea -- I did it -- because the rear grip overwhelms the front) or you run mixed or some other set. The mixed setup with the BS 285 fronts allows very sharp turn in up front, near matching front/rear grip to the awesome rear 295 Yoks. Biggest problem is getting someone to mount the 285 BS on 9" wheels as it a total bitch. Once mounted, magic happens. Disclaimer -- if you have a co-driver, the 285 BS can easily overheat unless you actively heat manage from run 1 as the carcass temps get high fast even if the surface temp feels like it is control. Even on the 275/35-18 square BS setup, Cashmore found out that having a co-driver in warm temps could be a detriment.

For anyone interested, I've re-listed the Schroth Quickfit harness I had in my M3 for a total steal of $150 shipped. This unit rules as you can install it in minutes and is DOT legal.
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      07-29-2020, 10:20 PM   #1273
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Why don't we all run Goodyear Supercar 3's?

FWIW, I ran the Goodyears at the Peru Tour and they felt great. Of course, any new tire at my first real autox of the year would have felt great, even in the first heat.

Eagle F1 Supercar 3 - Size: 275/35R18 are only $240 each. Buy a set of four and get a $100 Goodyear Prepaid Mastercard Card by mail-in rebate.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...F1S3&tab=Specs

The latest Tirerack test (using 245's) showed they may not be quite as fast as Yoko A052's on asphalt but they're close, wear better and cost less. Good turn in feel and seemed to handle the hot temps. Kind of a cross between Bridgestone RE71's and BFG Rival S's. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests...y.jsp?ttid=255

Tommy, I'll run the Goodyear's at Nats if you do.

Lemme know by Aug 10th as I'll probably put in an expensive order for Yoks around then. Although I'm torn regarding 265 or 295's in the rear. Plus it would suck to buy new tires and then have Nats get cancelled at the last minute.

Thanks,
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      07-30-2020, 11:17 AM   #1274
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Quote:
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FWIW, I ran the Goodyears at the Peru Tour and they felt great. Of course, any new tire at my first real autox of the year would have felt great, even in the first heat.

Eagle F1 Supercar 3 - Size: 275/35R18 are only $240 each. Buy a set of four and get a $100 Goodyear Prepaid Mastercard Card by mail-in rebate.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...F1S3&tab=Specs

The latest Tirerack test (using 245's) showed they may not be quite as fast as Yoko A052's on asphalt but they're close, wear better and cost less. Good turn in feel and seemed to handle the hot temps. Kind of a cross between Bridgestone RE71's and BFG Rival S's. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests...y.jsp?ttid=255

Tommy, I'll run the Goodyear's at Nats if you do.

Lemme know by Aug 10th as I'll probably put in an expensive order for Yoks around then. Although I'm torn regarding 265 or 295's in the rear. Plus it would suck to buy new tires and then have Nats get cancelled at the last minute.

Thanks,
Jeff
Hmm, that's an interesting proposal Jeff. How do those tires put down power compared to the Bridgestones? I feel like I lost a lot of time last year by losing traction in the rear so that's been a selling point for the yoks, though some of that is due to my setup
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      07-30-2020, 03:15 PM   #1275
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JEff - how are they in the wet? Experienced it yet? How does that particular size run vs. other 275's you've tried? Wide, narrow?
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      07-31-2020, 02:10 PM   #1276
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To be clear, I've only had one autox so far this summer and again, any new tire would have felt great. I have no wet weather experience on them. The Goodyear specs are linked above but the 275/30-18 is 10" wide on a 9.5" wide wheel, same as the RE71r's. I THINK they put down power as well as RE71's which means they're probably not as good as the A052's. However, they're less expensive and by all accounts last longer. I believe Tony and Devin are sticking with them for Nats in the BS M2.

I'd prefer to be on the same tire so we can rule it out of our list of excuses. Last year sucked in that regard. I was just trying to avoid spending more money and having a bunch of fresh tires left over after Nats in this abbreviated year. I still have last years RE71's from Nats to use up and my work schedule isn't cooperating.

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