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      02-18-2017, 02:41 AM   #23
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I'm planning to order MCS 2ways with Remote-Reservoirs. The springs currently picked out for me are 600f/900r. Is the 900r going to be ok for the street?

The car is a daily driver, but mainly for picking up the kids & solo driving (errands, canyon runs, etc), my wife will rarely be in the car. That said, I still want something livable enough. And especially when going through canyons at high speeds on less than perfect pavement...

I know this is subjective but on such a big purchase I figure it's better to ask and see what comes back, than to rely solely on the opinion of 1 salesperson (who I'm sure is well-intentioned, but it's only 1 opinion). I have no prior experience with spring rates for coil-overs so I'm in the hands of others no matter what.

I've seen comments before about having the proper ratios between front a rear.. Does 600/900 generally fall into that category?

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      02-18-2017, 06:42 AM   #24
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You guys must drive tracks that are smooth as glass. My singles if cranked up seem far to stiff and car jounces around
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      02-18-2017, 08:22 AM   #25
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I'm at 600/900 now on 2WNR and seriously considering dropping to 450/750 or near there. It's been excellent at the track but a bit much for DD duty IMO. I also have some extremely bumpy roads to tackle on my daily routes.
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      02-28-2017, 11:42 AM   #26
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Do you guys run same tire size front and rear. I am planning on getting coil overs but I will be running a square setup.
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      06-10-2017, 08:05 AM   #27
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Long story but I never got my noise issue sorted, called MCS, and they told me it was the dampers. They've been in for re-build for the last many months and I should be getting them back in the next few weeks. Can't wait to get them back on the car!

Am looking at buying lower rate springs again 450/750 range and am curious what spring heights folks would recommend? MCS and BW recommend 6"/9" + helpers up front (which I have) but kind of don't like the helpers bc they decrease wheel space slightly. Then Vorshlag recommends 7"/9" no helpers. Thinking 6.5"/9" no helpers to split difference?

When I get another DD later this year and continue the track build out, will probably throw my 600/900 set back on.
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      06-12-2017, 08:40 AM   #28
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Here's my advice

First, pair up with someone who knows about BMWs and race setups. My suggestion is Phil@Bimmerworld, which has been flawless building out three track cars so far.

I got the 2WNR setup earlier this year. 700/1000 springs (6" and 8"), helper springs up front and GC hardware for the rear perch as well as the race camber plates.

Really happy with the setup. I drive the car to track events and they're always really friggin far (4-10h drives one way), so I cannot have a rock hard suspension especially when using race seats.

The car has a square 10.5" BW TE:AL wheel setup, so with a front 6" spring plus helpers I needed a 12mm spacer to clear the perch properly.
12mm spacer on a 10.5 ET27 wheel is very aggressive. I spoke to BW which recommended switching for a 5" front spring, which I did over this weekend and now I clear with a 3mm spacer! So I'm quite happy.
Of course if you were running a 10" wheel I don't think in either case you'd need a spacer, or maybe just a small one

On track review
This is my brother and I figuring out suspension settings:


It's surprisingly compliant. My students GT3s are sprung so much harder it's not even funny. It's quite easy to dial settings in and modify them to suit different tracks or driver aggressiveness.
With the same tires, we dropped 3.5 seconds on our first outing in a 2:10 track. Not bad!
It is so compliant you can jump curbs and the car lands completely composed.

Road review
I dial them down from the track settings for the drive to/from the track. The car is surprisingly comfortable. It's more compliant than the stock EDC on Sport+ even on track tires which have harder sidewalls than street tires.
The ride is what you'd expect in a sporty car and never makes me feel like my teeth are going to fall out. After driving the 7h drive to Pitt Race I called to BW to make sure that the spring rates are not too soft for optimum performance.
I find track seats are a way bigger hindrance to street use than the suspension, even at 700/1000
It is mind boggling that a suspension with solid camber plates can be this comfortable.
At lower speeds I hear some light clunking which may be the same issue Mobbin mentions, but I was told to expect this.

I also have a JRZ with 500/800 springs with stock seats on the other car and the MCS is more compliant and MUCH quieter.

There is a clear difference between 'tolerating' the ride of a car and being perfectly happy with it. I expected to have to tolerate the drives to/from the track with the MCS suspension, but I was wrong. I wouldn't hesitate to have this suspension with these springs on my street car.

Next steps
I'm going to sell the JRZs and either get the Bilstein Clubsports for the E92 and keep the MCS 2WNR on the E90 or sell the JRZs, move the MCS 2WNR to the E92 and get a MCS 3W Remote for the E90.
Also, at some point in time I'll install the Hotchins sway bars that are sitting in my living room, but one thing at a time!

Last edited by SYT_Shadow; 06-14-2017 at 07:55 AM..
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      06-13-2017, 03:38 PM   #29
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SYT, thank you for the write-up and advice, very thorough! I completely concur on pairing up with someone who knows these cars well, I have a much better appreciation for that now.

I talked with MCS and they said 5" + helper fronts should be good. Then they recommended 9" rears for street cars and 8" rears for more track-focused setups. Not sure the reasoning but may talk to Phil about this also before ordering.

Thanks again for talking me through some of this also and to others who have chimed in here.
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      07-01-2017, 05:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Here's my advice

First, pair up with someone who knows about BMWs and race setups. My suggestion is Phil@Bimmerworld, which has been flawless building out three track cars so far.

I got the 2WNR setup earlier this year. 700/1000 springs (6" and 8"), helper springs up front and GC hardware for the rear perch as well as the race camber plates.

Really happy with the setup. I drive the car to track events and they're always really friggin far (4-10h drives one way), so I cannot have a rock hard suspension especially when using race seats.

The car has a square 10.5" BW TE:AL wheel setup, so with a front 6" spring plus helpers I needed a 12mm spacer to clear the perch properly.
12mm spacer on a 10.5 ET27 wheel is very aggressive. I spoke to BW which recommended switching for a 5" front spring, which I did over this weekend and now I clear with a 3mm spacer! So I'm quite happy.
Of course if you were running a 10" wheel I don't think in either case you'd need a spacer, or maybe just a small one

On track review
This is my brother and I figuring out suspension settings:


It's surprisingly compliant. My students GT3s are sprung so much harder it's not even funny. It's quite easy to dial settings in and modify them to suit different tracks or driver aggressiveness.
With the same tires, we dropped 3.5 seconds on our first outing in a 2:10 track. Not bad!
It is so compliant you can jump curbs and the car lands completely composed.

Road review
I dial them down from the track settings for the drive to/from the track. The car is surprisingly comfortable. It's more compliant than the stock EDC on Sport+ even on track tires which have harder sidewalls than street tires.
The ride is what you'd expect in a sporty car and never makes me feel like my teeth are going to fall out. After driving the 7h drive to Pitt Race I called to BW to make sure that the spring rates are not too soft for optimum performance.
I find track seats are a way bigger hindrance to street use than the suspension, even at 700/1000
It is mind boggling that a suspension with solid camber plates can be this comfortable.
At lower speeds I hear some light clunking which may be the same issue Mobbin mentions, but I was told to expect this.

I also have a JRZ with 500/800 springs with stock seats on the other car and the MCS is more compliant and MUCH quieter.

There is a clear difference between 'tolerating' the ride of a car and being perfectly happy with it. I expected to have to tolerate the drives to/from the track with the MCS suspension, but I was wrong. I wouldn't hesitate to have this suspension with these springs on my street car.

Next steps
I'm going to sell the JRZs and either get the Bilstein Clubsports for the E92 and keep the MCS 2WNR on the E90 or sell the JRZs, move the MCS 2WNR to the E92 and get a MCS 3W Remote for the E90.
Also, at some point in time I'll install the Hotchins sway bars that are sitting in my living room, but one thing at a time!

I just installed my mcs 2way non remote on my e92 m3. I'm assuming it's counterclockwise for softer and clockwise for stiffer.
Thanks evan
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      07-01-2017, 07:24 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwfst1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Here's my advice

First, pair up with someone who knows about BMWs and race setups. My suggestion is Phil@Bimmerworld, which has been flawless building out three track cars so far.

I got the 2WNR setup earlier this year. 700/1000 springs (6" and 8"), helper springs up front and GC hardware for the rear perch as well as the race camber plates.

Really happy with the setup. I drive the car to track events and they're always really friggin far (4-10h drives one way), so I cannot have a rock hard suspension especially when using race seats.

The car has a square 10.5" BW TE:AL wheel setup, so with a front 6" spring plus helpers I needed a 12mm spacer to clear the perch properly.
12mm spacer on a 10.5 ET27 wheel is very aggressive. I spoke to BW which recommended switching for a 5" front spring, which I did over this weekend and now I clear with a 3mm spacer! So I'm quite happy.
Of course if you were running a 10" wheel I don't think in either case you'd need a spacer, or maybe just a small one

On track review
This is my brother and I figuring out suspension settings:


It's surprisingly compliant. My students GT3s are sprung so much harder it's not even funny. It's quite easy to dial settings in and modify them to suit different tracks or driver aggressiveness.
With the same tires, we dropped 3.5 seconds on our first outing in a 2:10 track. Not bad!
It is so compliant you can jump curbs and the car lands completely composed.

Road review
I dial them down from the track settings for the drive to/from the track. The car is surprisingly comfortable. It's more compliant than the stock EDC on Sport+ even on track tires which have harder sidewalls than street tires.
The ride is what you'd expect in a sporty car and never makes me feel like my teeth are going to fall out. After driving the 7h drive to Pitt Race I called to BW to make sure that the spring rates are not too soft for optimum performance.
I find track seats are a way bigger hindrance to street use than the suspension, even at 700/1000
It is mind boggling that a suspension with solid camber plates can be this comfortable.
At lower speeds I hear some light clunking which may be the same issue Mobbin mentions, but I was told to expect this.

I also have a JRZ with 500/800 springs with stock seats on the other car and the MCS is more compliant and MUCH quieter.

There is a clear difference between 'tolerating' the ride of a car and being perfectly happy with it. I expected to have to tolerate the drives to/from the track with the MCS suspension, but I was wrong. I wouldn't hesitate to have this suspension with these springs on my street car.

Next steps
I'm going to sell the JRZs and either get the Bilstein Clubsports for the E92 and keep the MCS 2WNR on the E90 or sell the JRZs, move the MCS 2WNR to the E92 and get a MCS 3W Remote for the E90.
Also, at some point in time I'll install the Hotchins sway bars that are sitting in my living room, but one thing at a time!

I just installed my mcs 2way non remote on my e92 m3. I'm assuming it's counterclockwise for softer and clockwise for stiffer.
Thanks evan
Here ya go

http://motioncontrolsuspension.com/w...STRUCTIONS.pdf
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      07-01-2017, 09:07 PM   #32
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So, I got a MCS 3WR for the primary track car. So the 2WNR will go to the secondary car which is the 'street' car.

Got 700/1000 for the 3WR as well. 5" front, 8" rear

As we're supposed to be discussing MCS settings here, here's what I like at Watkins Glen on 275 square NT01 on BW 10.5" wheels:

Please note the front and rear of the car are under 25" from the fender arch to the floor

MCS track settings at WGI with NT01s
Front comp +8
Front reb +6
Rear comp +6
Rear reb +8

UPDATE
I have since found out my rebound settings are too soft so I will be correcting that soon

MCS street settings
Front compression +4
Front rebound +6
Rear compression +3
Rear rebound +5


It is simply incredible how a simple adjustment changes the car's behavior. It's very easy to do trial and error.

There is a massive increase in grip for the rear axle with this. In uphills where before I was all over the place when going WOT, now it's just totally planted.

Awesome stuff and many kudos to Phil@Bimmerworld for the advice and help.

Last edited by SYT_Shadow; 08-09-2017 at 02:23 PM..
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      08-05-2017, 10:12 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
So, I got a MCS 3WR for the primary track car. So the 2WNR will go to the secondary car which is the 'street' car.

Got 700/1000 for the 3WR as well. 5" front, 8" rear

As we're supposed to be discussing MCS settings here, here's what I like at Watkins Glen on 275 square NT01 on BW 10.5" wheels:

Please note the front and rear of the car are under 25" from the fender arch to the floor

MCS track settings at WGI with NT01s
Front comp +8
Front reb +6
Rear comp +6
Rear reb +8


MCS street settings
Front compression +4
Front rebound +6
Rear compression +3
Rear rebound +5


It is simply incredible how a simple adjustment changes the car's behavior. It's very easy to do trial and error.

There is a massive increase in grip for the rear axle with this. In uphills where before I was all over the place when going WOT, now it's just totally planted.
Awesome stuff and many kudos to Phil@Bimmerworld for the advice and help.
Nice, thx. installing my MCS off of motons this weekend. What spring lengths are you on?
current springs are 800/1100, and i didnt have complaints. i noticed with the front sprigs (6.5" swift springs) i cant get too low without a helper spring, which i dont have, and not sure is needed. car is still set pretty low, but prefer to have the option to get lower.
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      08-05-2017, 10:48 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leo95se View Post
Nice, thx. installing my MCS off of motons this weekend. What spring lengths are you on?
current springs are 800/1100, and i didnt have complaints. i noticed with the front sprigs (6.5" swift springs) i cant get too low without a helper spring, which i dont have, and not sure is needed. car is still set pretty low, but prefer to have the option to get lower.
My fronts are 5" plus a slinky style helper. The front will get slammed lower than I can actually use it so i'm happy

The rear is 8 or 9. The car will go to below 24 inches in the rear if needed, although i run it at almost 25
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      09-25-2017, 06:35 AM   #35
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Finally got some time to test at wgi this weekend. Still not dialed in, but a nice difference.
This is on 800/1100lb springs

Front:
Rebound: 14
Compression: 9

Rear:
Rebound: 10
Compression 7

With my wing I’m still getting understeer on tighter corners, so will work to remove that.
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      10-20-2017, 01:59 PM   #36
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It's nice to see a dedicated MCS thread here...

I have 1WNRs on my Z4MC and they have been great, except I am now at the point where I was wishing they were 2WNRs.

One of the first things I'll be adding to the M3 over the winter is 2WNRs.

Has anyone found an elegant solution for accessing the rear adjusters??
Extenders aren't really feasible, especially with the way the adjusters have to move up & down.

Seems like it comes down to cutting holes in the trim or removing trims.
If anyone has a better idea I'd love to hear it.
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      10-20-2017, 02:05 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Unfortunately the clack/rattle sounds has returned and the car is now back in the shop for the day. We've pretty much ruled out the sway bar and end-links and believe it's coming from the Vorshlag camber plates. They're planning to disassemble and reassemble the front strut stack, tightening the top nuts off of the car. I'm hoping this fixes it as the noise is quite annoying for a DD.

Vorshlag has been quite helpful in diagnosing the issue and also recently put together this video about why this can happen:
I've worked with Terry before... great guy ...when you can get a hold of him.

Its interesting that Vorshlag advocates using an impact gun, while MCS specifically advises against it.
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      10-20-2017, 02:10 PM   #38
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On my E92 and E90 I removed the trunk trim pieces that cover the rsms and by extension the knobs. This works really well.
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      10-20-2017, 03:29 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
It's nice to see a dedicated MCS thread here...

I have 1WNRs on my Z4MC and they have been great, except I am now at the point where I was wishing they were 2WNRs.

One of the first things I'll be adding to the M3 over the winter is 2WNRs.

Has anyone found an elegant solution for accessing the rear adjusters??
Extenders aren't really feasible, especially with the way the adjusters have to move up & down.

Seems like it comes down to cutting holes in the trim or removing trims.
If anyone has a better idea I'd love to hear it.
My installer just cut flaps in my trim, works well enough.

BTW, the 1WNR's can be converted to 2WR's and I would suggest that route vs the 2WNR's which cannot be converted to remotes. I'm not sure of the cost but somewhat wishing I just went for the remotes to begin with.
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      10-20-2017, 04:42 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
My installer just cut flaps in my trim, works well enough.

BTW, the 1WNR's can be converted to 2WR's and I would suggest that route vs the 2WNR's which cannot be converted to remotes. I'm not sure of the cost but somewhat wishing I just went for the remotes to begin with.
good point.... definitely something to consider
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      01-14-2019, 08:30 PM   #41
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Bumping this thread up!

I'm running 400/700 spring rates on 2WNR. This was suggested by Wyatt and I found that no matter what I've fiddled with, I found myself coming back to this setup.

# Front
Rebound 13
Compression 5
# Rear
Rebound 11
Compression 4
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      01-14-2019, 08:57 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
Bumping this thread up!

I'm running 400/700 spring rates on 2WNR. This was suggested by Wyatt and I found that no matter what I've fiddled with, I found myself coming back to this setup.

# Front
Rebound 13
Compression 5
# Rear
Rebound 11
Compression 4
Makes sense to have lower compression with those spring rates. Have you thought about higher rates or do you daily drive your car?
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      01-14-2019, 09:27 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leo95se View Post
Makes sense to have lower compression with those spring rates. Have you thought about higher rates or do you daily drive your car?
Eventually. I wanted something soft for SF broken roads and higher compliance for the streets. When I take it out to the track, I'll how the spring rates do and adjust from there. I'm sure CT is similar to San Francisco broken roads?
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      01-15-2019, 06:04 AM   #44
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Quote:
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Eventually. I wanted something soft for SF broken roads and higher compliance for the streets. When I take it out to the track, I'll how the spring rates do and adjust from there. I'm sure CT is similar to San Francisco broken roads?
CT isn’t bad actually. NY stinks though. I don’t really street the car any more so aren’t overly concerned. Besides streets kill the poor shocks :/
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