|
|
03-14-2019, 09:36 PM | #859 | |
Private First Class
22
Rep 119
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-14-2019, 09:40 PM | #860 | |
Private First Class
22
Rep 119
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-15-2019, 02:54 AM | #861 |
Private First Class
22
Rep 119
Posts |
HELP! I think I may have induced a problem with my throttles
Ok, long story on my 09 M3.. Car was running fine, but coming up on 54k miles. Wanted to rebuild the TA's ahead of complete failure, so took the risk of taking them out and swapping out the gears.
Got myself a pair of used TA's (with at least one known bad one) to first learn how to rebuild the TA's and swapped out the gears myself on that pair first. When I pulled my TA's instead of then rebuilding my own pair, I used the mechanicals(gear and spring assembly, the bottom part of the TA's except the boards) from the set I found used, and paired them with the good boards on my original TA's (probably first mistake) - tested the motors on both to be at least operational.. Put everything back together and car ran fine for at least a 1000 miles. Now I got a little greedy I guess as I had read the TA linkages may be stiffening up and eventually cause the gears to fail, so decided to open the car back up to clean and lube them.. This is when things started going south. When I lubed the throttle linkages. first I lubed bank 2, I used a penetrating lubricant (Wurth HHS-K) - the bank seemed to get a lot smoother and easier to operate the valves (at least by hand). But after a few minutes, I realized that this lubricant is also somewhat adhesive like when it dries, and gets a unique adhesive like consistency.. Anyways I panicked and did not use the same lube on Bank 1, instead opted for a different lube (penetrating lithium grease). Bank 2 got smoother as well, but was slightly stiffer - not as easy as bank 1 to operate. Also when I was lubing the linkages, I moved the shafts longitudinally a bit to loosen them up (and possibly hurt the TA sensors? Not sure) Anyway, I put everything back together, fired the car up and started getting error codes.. the same ones someone gets when a TA goes bad.. Bank 1 started failing pre-drive check at least once but then I turned off and started the car and unfortunately it went into limp mode.. I turned off the car, cleared the codes thinking maybe the linkage position was not calibrated and so reset codes, and restarted the car. Luckily, no codes appeared, so I assumed the error was a fluke and that all was good and put everything back together. Car drove fine for about 100 miles but then went into limp mode when driving today. Both bank 1 and bank 2 gave me errors. Bank 1 - failed pre-drive check 2B21 Bank 2 - 2B16 Guess I panicked again, as I thought the mechanicals I used from the other set may be faulty, So I pulled out the TA's, rebuilt the original mechanicals of the TA's I had on the car with new gears, and put the TA's back on (essentially, back to original TA's with new gears) - And as my bad luck would have it, same errors still appeared Bank 1 - failed pre-drive check 2B21 Bank 2 - 2B16 I almost gave up hope, but I tried one last step and swapped out bank 2 TA board for one from the used set I got and put everything back together. The faults cleared and I was able to start her up normally once. But now I was weary with the intermittent nature of this whole exercise, so let her cool off and waited to try and re-test. Sure enough, try to cycle again (No engine start, just power on to initiate the pre-drive checks and bank 1 fails pre-drive check) Bottom line, I have one or more possible failure modes. 1) One ore more of the TA's are bad 2) Bank 1 is failing pre-drive check. I am struggling a bit to decipher if the bad TA's are causing the bank 1 pre-drive check fail or if the tighter linkage is causing the check to fail. What are my options forward? I am a bit worried that repeated pulling of the TA's may cause further induced failures eventually (bad connectors etc) I could get a new set of TA's and swap them out to at least eliminate that possiblity of bad TA's but I doubt if it will fix the problem. I am worried that the tighter linkage on bank 1 could cause the new TA's to fail prematurely.. Maybe try lubing it again until I can get it somewhat close to Bank 2? (I already tried cleaning it out and re-lubing, no luck) Thoughts? Ideas? I am also operating a bit blind - a good troubleshooting software would go a long way here? What should I get? |
Appreciate
0
|
04-29-2019, 12:39 AM | #862 |
e90noob
1588
Rep 1,862
Posts |
what parts do i need?
just the Throttle body actuators? No other connected doohickey or wire or something? about to order the rebuilt TA's to install next saturday
__________________
2008 E90 M3 / LCI trunk + euro tail swap
Production date - 2008-04-22 |
Appreciate
0
|
05-01-2019, 06:52 PM | #863 |
Second Lieutenant
78
Rep 230
Posts |
Just the unit themselves. But since you're in there and you've got the plenum off, if your thermostat needs replacing.
__________________
'04 E46, '08 E93, '16 F22 M235i, '17 i01 i3
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-05-2019, 01:36 AM | #864 | |
e90noob
1588
Rep 1,862
Posts |
managed to swap out both TA's today took way longer because had difficulty reaching places and disconnecting a bunch of stuff but at least it got done but ... did i mess something up while i was swapping out the TA's? or was it just time? i ran diagnostic and got this error 2AF9 - coolant temperature sensor Quote:
where exactly is it located? is it in the photo i put up?
__________________
2008 E90 M3 / LCI trunk + euro tail swap
Production date - 2008-04-22 |
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-05-2019, 05:08 AM | #865 | ||
Captain
336
Rep 724
Posts |
Quote:
DIY: Thermostat & Waterpump (Video) https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1024830 |
||
Appreciate
0
|
05-05-2019, 08:09 PM | #866 |
First Lieutenant
306
Rep 315
Posts |
Is there a way to confirm if it's bank 1 or 2 based on the following codes:
U011E P1628 P161F I am suspecting bank 2, but would like to confirm before replacement. Thanks |
Appreciate
0
|
05-06-2019, 08:31 AM | #868 |
Captain
593
Rep 726
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-07-2019, 02:20 PM | #869 |
Only thing getting better with time besides wine.
2
Rep 7
Posts |
Thank You So Much!
W/// Bro I just want to say thank you so much! I have been a long time M3 fan and after 5 years of saving I brought my first E90 M3.. It's my dream car and for the last 3 months its been my everything but a few weeks ago It started to go into limp mode and I panicked.
I found this article along with a few videos and I was able to complete this repair within about 2-2 and a half hours. I didn't find it to be very hard if you had the proper tools and this is legit my first time ever doing any type of work on an engine. I have always dreamed of owning and working on M's and thanks to this guide I'm pretty confident I can tackle a number of repairs going forward if I have issues. Don't even know if you still check this Forum but I would just like to say THANK YOU SO MUCH! Car is officially back on the road with no errors and my baby is purring like the day I got her!!! Couldn't have done it without your help! |
Appreciate
1
W///7485.00 |
05-08-2019, 08:33 PM | #870 |
Private First Class
60
Rep 194
Posts |
Ordered myself a throttle actuator yesterday after seeing the exact same symptoms and looking at my ODO as well. I took out the old actuator today while waiting for new actuator to come in 2 days.
Took about 45min total with hand tools only . Thank you for the write up. By the way, besides remove limp mode from the car, do you feel a difference in driving? Throttle response? Last edited by E46tknv; 05-09-2019 at 06:44 AM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-09-2019, 08:58 AM | #871 | |
Lieutenant General
7485
Rep 12,307
Posts |
Quote:
Like you, it was my dream to own an E92 M3. I actually skipped class in college to watch the live unveiling of the concept car online. Funnily enough, like you, my TVA decided to crap out about 1 month into the ownership. Back then, only the V10 DIY was out so I had to improvise a little bit with the S65. This is actually probably not the easiest DIY to start with and you did it in pretty good time. That's how a lot of us started learning, just changing air filters, spark plugs and oil changes. You're off to a good start. Thanks for the kind words and enjoy your M!
__________________
Current:
16 F82 M4 GTS, Black Sapphire/Black, DCT 08 E92 M3, Sparkling Graphite/Bamboo Beige, 6MT 07 E85 Z4M Roadster, Alpine White/Red, 6MT 99 E36 M3, Techno Violet/Dove Grey, 6MT |
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-10-2019, 06:54 PM | #872 |
New Member
2
Rep 13
Posts |
Went to the mechanic last week after getting my first "engine malfunction" light. 80k miles on my 2011. Haven't seen it since though.
They confirmed it was a 2B15, so bank 1. Labor was expensive of course, so I'm glad I found this thread to boost my confidence of DIY (read all 40 pages!). Trying to figure out what else I should change while I have the plenum off aside from spark plugs. My mechanic gave me a list of other items to replace because they saw some oil leaking: valve cover O-ring, valve cover gaskets, oil separator gaskets, position sensor and the spark plug tube. Not sure how severe the leaking is, but is it worth the extra labor to replace all the gaskets? Also trying to get a good list of exact tools people have used and measurements. I read the Torx bolts need T30? Any other recommended tools (aside from a long magnetic pole?) I'll probably order TAs early next week and start grabbing tools this week. This will be my first DIY under the hood so I'm nervous/excited to learn. Hoping to knock it out on Memorial weekend. |
Appreciate
0
|
05-10-2019, 06:57 PM | #873 | |
e90noob
1588
Rep 1,862
Posts |
Quote:
belts and pulleys because in order to do those other parts, you gotta open up the same area anyway
__________________
2008 E90 M3 / LCI trunk + euro tail swap
Production date - 2008-04-22 |
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-10-2019, 07:06 PM | #874 |
New Member
2
Rep 13
Posts |
Appreciate the recommendation! I'll have to see if all those parts fit into my budget for this project. Thermostat for sure is one I forgot about (and the price difference from Genuine vs OE on FCPEuro is huge).
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-10-2019, 07:23 PM | #875 | |
Colonel
3085
Rep 2,747
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
9ers
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-16-2019, 09:01 PM | #876 |
bOrN To DiE
413
Rep 1,738
Posts |
What happens if you drive with bad TA's ? Bank 1 gave signal twice in 4 months and lights went off and never came back.
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-17-2019, 05:06 AM | #877 | |
Captain
1039
Rep 731
Posts |
Quote:
So the wise thing to do is to order the units when you first get the code/Xmas lights. So you can avoid scrambling last minute if it goes into complete limp mode a week before track day etc. No point on kicking the tire down the road. Just my humble opinion. |
|
Appreciate
1
XKxRome0ox1587.50 |
05-18-2019, 11:53 AM | #878 | |
bOrN To DiE
413
Rep 1,738
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-05-2019, 01:16 PM | #879 |
Second Lieutenant
88
Rep 217
Posts |
In the middle of this and almost at the finish line but hoping to get advice on a possible hiccup.
The "nipples" that attach to the TAs (highlighted in orange below) are not aligning with my TAs unless I move the nipple on the TA itself (thus moving the gear inside). Is this normal? The new TAs are from M Power Motorsport if that makes a difference (rebuilt). |
Appreciate
0
|
06-05-2019, 04:35 PM | #880 | |
Captain
366
Rep 860
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|