Dead FRM (footwell) module changed under extended warranty!

[Route 16]

Thank you BMW San Antonio.

What happened? My car went on a carrier from WA to TX for 9 days. Would’ve been 5 days if it weren’t for that cold/snow storm last week. Upon arrival, dead battery, jump started, cool. Windows weren’t rolling up/down...driver couldn’t look out the side to safely reverse it...fuck. But no biggie, still got it off safely. Interior lights did not light up, signal lights dead but no SES, only warning was red with car on the lift symbol. Drove perfectly fine. By default, headlights are on ON position at all times (stock safety program) brake lights do work.

Got my car back from the dealer after they changed my dead FRM module under warranty. This is my experience, it may be or may not the same as the next guy. My findings... my car went back to stock ECU file. Is my servotronic and DCT GTS file gone too? Don’t know but we’ll assume it is due to stock ECU file and my butt dyno feeling like it’s less snappy. All my euro coding, headlights, orange corner bulb options are gone, naturally, new FRM module. No biggie, I’ll just remote code with Alpine tune some time again. I’ll reupload my stage 2 file again. And all will be right in the world. Funny, I am catless, file is stock ECU but no SES for being catless. I’m not worried about it. Just an observation.

Were there any warning signs of a dead FRM? Not for me, changed my battery 2 years ago, original alternator, no recalled battery wiring, voltage is correct before shipping my car. Also noticed the side mirrors are a bit faster folding in and out. Before it seemed slow. I thought it was the gears going out but now it seems refreshed.

[amrazM]

If they updated the car everything is gone.

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by amrazM

If they updated the car everything is gone.

Yup but I have everything to bring it back

[codinge90]

It most likely failed when you jumped the car. For anyone reading this post and you're having these same symptoms the FRM is covered under a 10 year/150,000 mile warranty regardless of owner or modifications.

As for the SES light not coming on, it'll eventually come on. Your o2's just need to realize the car is catless, sometimes it takes 20 miles and sometimes it takes 200. Gts flash was reset forsure, you'll need to get everything recoded and flashed.

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by codinge90

It most likely failed when you jumped the car. For anyone reading this post and you're having these same symptoms the FRM is covered under a 10 year/150,000 mile warranty regardless of owner or modifications.

As for the SES light not coming on, it'll eventually come on. Your o2's just need to realize the car is catless, sometimes it takes 20 miles and sometimes it takes 200. Gts flash was reset forsure, you'll need to get everything recoded and flashed.

Correct, I scanned for codes after a 30 mile ride from pick up. 2789, 278A were there. I cleared it, reuploaded Alpines stage 2 file, 50 mile drive later, still not there. Just missing the DCT flash that needs to be done.

[shuggy]

Similar experience here. Battery discharge had been appearing on/off over the last several months. Battery replaced 3 years ago to Bosch OEM and ignition at startup has been instantaneous, so was thinking electronics were acting up.

One day, all of a sudden didn't start up. Checked battery voltage was ~11.2, so figured it was the battery indeed. Used a battery pack to jump start, failed. Lots of clacking coming from the fuse box. No burning smell, no blown fuses. Let it sit overnight. Next day, battery voltage was ~7.5. Jump start worked, but 4 errors: Transmission (DCT) malfunction!, Start-off assistance inactive!, Increased battery discharge!, and Dynamic damping control malfunction!

Crap... finally started up, but couldn't drive it to charge the battery. Let it run for about 15 mins. Turned off. Started up again, luckily without any issues. Later that morning, drove to EAS to have battery changed and spark plugs replaced. Was told FRM module failed and threw codes. No DCT malfunction this time, but angel eyes, windows, and blinkers did not work.

Was advised that FRM module warranty had been extended twice, first to, 8yr/100,000mi, then to 10yr/156,000mi. Called South Bay BMW and they had one FRM module in stock. This was a Friday afternoon. Drove there, explained my situation, and over the weekend they ran a dupe diagnostics, and indeed it was just FRM to blame. Was replaced under warranty.

I'm not sure if this is related, but since the FRM replacement, my cold start is back to what it used to be. For the last few years and 10,000 mi or so, cold start seems to have been abbreviated and a lot quieter. I'm at 59,000 mi, sparks were replaced once under warranty at 28,xxx mi, so maybe it was that?? I have MS Test Pipes and ESS Tune (cold start intact), so it makes sense the cycle is shorter than when I had primary cats. Nonetheless, thought it was interesting, and with all things done, car is running significantly better than before.

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by shuggy

I'm not sure if this is related, but since the FRM replacement, my cold start is back to what it used to be. For the last few years and 10,000 mi or so, cold start seems to have been abbreviated and a lot quieter. I'm at 59,000 mi, sparks were replaced once under warranty at 28,xxx mi, so maybe it was that?? I have MS Test Pipes and ESS Tune (cold start intact), so it makes sense the cycle is shorter than when I had primary cats. Nonetheless, thought it was interesting, and with all things done, car is running significantly better than before.

I didn't have issues with cold start timing. I always wait for the idle to dip lower once cold start is over with. My car is a solid piece of work, my only worry for the mean time are the throttle actuators. Anything that could make the car break down has already been replaced, mainly RB's. But I would still like to have a new alternator, starter especially it being 10 yrs old now from the manufacturing date.

[shuggy]

Originally Posted by Route 16

I didn't have issues with cold start timing. I always wait for the idle to dip lower once cold start is over with. My car is a solid piece of work, my only worry for the mean time are the throttle actuators. Anything that could make the car break down has already been replaced, mainly RB's. But I would still like to have a new alternator, starter especially it being 10 yrs old now from the manufacturing date.

Totally! I'm now thinking this is going to be the thing that's going to fail one day without any warning. Likewise, have had everything else dealt with. Looks like it'll be ~$1,500 to get this replaced out-of-pocket, parts and 2-3 hrs labor...

[Route 16]

Just an update since my last post. It has been 2 years and roughly 12,000 miles later. Most of those miles have been on I-5, Autobahn and Northern Europe. Haven't had any FRM issues. No issues with BE bearings (haven't done Blackstone analysis since 2018 anyway), replaced actuators with MPower Motorsport actuators.

I think my original issue was having a lead battery this whole time. It was all of my accessories (Air Lift management, SONY headunit) that would drain my lead battery. Whoever installed the headunit (it was before I bought the car) sourced power that would drain the battery. BMW shop in Rudesheim routed the power via 30G so my Air Lift and AVIN headunit powers down when the car sleeps in 15-18 minutes. Having an AGM battery seems to have mitigated all of these issues. It's now headed back to the states. Hopefully the battery holds during shipping for the next 60 days.

[nycplumber]

Just FYI to anyone with a failed FRM any decent coder will fix your FRM module and lifetime warranty it for $100

[lonatic]

Mine went out recently when I was doing my vf650 install and disconnected battery. Found some guy on ebay and he was able to fix it for $50.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by shuggy

Similar experience here. Battery discharge had been appearing on/off over the last several months. Battery replaced 3 years ago to Bosch OEM and ignition at startup has been instantaneous, so was thinking electronics were acting up.

One day, all of a sudden didn't start up. Checked battery voltage was ~11.2, so figured it was the battery indeed. Used a battery pack to jump start, failed. Lots of clacking coming from the fuse box. No burning smell, no blown fuses. Let it sit overnight. Next day, battery voltage was ~7.5. Jump start worked, but 4 errors: Transmission (DCT) malfunction!, Start-off assistance inactive!, Increased battery discharge!, and Dynamic damping control malfunction!

Crap... finally started up, but couldn't drive it to charge the battery. Let it run for about 15 mins. Turned off. Started up again, luckily without any issues. Later that morning, drove to EAS to have battery changed and spark plugs replaced. Was told FRM module failed and threw codes. No DCT malfunction this time, but angel eyes, windows, and blinkers did not work.

Was advised that FRM module warranty had been extended twice, first to, 8yr/100,000mi, then to 10yr/156,000mi. Called South Bay BMW and they had one FRM module in stock. This was a Friday afternoon. Drove there, explained my situation, and over the weekend they ran a dupe diagnostics, and indeed it was just FRM to blame. Was replaced under warranty.

I'm not sure if this is related, but since the FRM replacement, my cold start is back to what it used to be. For the last few years and 10,000 mi or so, cold start seems to have been abbreviated and a lot quieter. I'm at 59,000 mi, sparks were replaced once under warranty at 28,xxx mi, so maybe it was that?? I have MS Test Pipes and ESS Tune (cold start intact), so it makes sense the cycle is shorter than when I had primary cats. Nonetheless, thought it was interesting, and with all things done, car is running significantly better than before.

This is interesting to me. I'm currently having 27B0 and 279D issues. I'm wondering if something is bringing down my voltage which is killing my secondary air pumps flow? Both are DME related codes but I have had the red car on a lift on the dash twice and just gone on it's own, a rear brake pad sensor error and just gone on its own and a battery discharge warning then gone on its own. My battery and alternator are both less than 2 years old. I also had the power cable recall performed. I wonder if my DME or FRM are dying?:

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

This is interesting to me. I'm currently having 27B0 and 279D issues. I'm wondering if something is bringing down my voltage which is killing my secondary air pumps flow? Both are DME related codes but I have had the red car on a lift on the dash twice and just gone on it's own, a rear brake pad sensor error and just gone on its own and a battery discharge warning then gone on its own. My battery and alternator are both less than 2 years old. I also had the power cable recall performed. I wonder if my DME or FRM are dying?:

Do you have a lead or AGM battery?

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by Route 16

Do you have a lead or AGM battery?

AGM put in by my dealer to avoid any crap.

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

AGM put in by my dealer to avoid any crap.

Gotcha and you had an AGM battery during your issues?

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by Route 16

Gotcha and you had an AGM battery during your issues?

Yeah, the prior battery was AGM as well.

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

This is interesting to me. I'm currently having 27B0 and 279D issues. I'm wondering if something is bringing down my voltage which is killing my secondary air pumps flow? Both are DME related codes but I have had the red car on a lift on the dash twice and just gone on it's own, a rear brake pad sensor error and just gone on its own and a battery discharge warning then gone on its own. My battery and alternator are both less than 2 years old. I also had the power cable recall performed. I wonder if my DME or FRM are dying?:

Not related to your DME or FRM at all.

Start the car cold with a multimeter attached and send a video of the values throughout the cold start cycle.

On a side note - we retuned shuggys car about a year ago and issues he had with his previous software were finally sorted. it's likely his cold start returned because the dealership overwrote his previous software that actually did modify the cold start routine when it wasn't supposed to