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      05-11-2019, 08:35 AM   #1
atorrealba
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Unhappy iDrive no longer turns on after replacing battery, blown fuse/short

Originally the battery that was on the car was AE and cheap which ended up shorting one of the ignition coils in my car making it unable to start.

Now after replacing the coil and the battery, my car is able to start and run perfectly but for some reason the iDrive no longer turns on/PDC, Radio/Nav etc.


It won't even boot or recognize audio, I started to believe it was something with the battery.

I ended up checking the fuses and found out that it was the #14 fuse for the iDrive circuit.



However upon putting in a new 15A fuse, it ended up shorting it out and blowing it immediately

Does this mean there is a short in the car and the iDrive needs to be replaced? or is it due to the new battery which has alot of cables near them that might've shorted it
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      05-11-2019, 09:31 AM   #2
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If there is a separate fuse for the iDrive and it blows, the issue seems to be the iDrive or on its way to it. Strange though, you didn't accidently swap plus and minus on the battery which if so may have blown the iDrive?
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      05-13-2019, 08:19 AM   #3
JRV
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I've heard of batteries being removed and replaced and the Footwell module being the culprit. Bring it to BMW or a shop to confirm.
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      05-13-2019, 08:54 PM   #4
atorrealba
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Personally I don't think it would have to do with the FRM but rather just a short of the wires that are bundled near the battery.


Or the battery wasn't properly coded and the iDrive must've shorted from the excess amperage
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      05-20-2019, 10:53 PM   #5
atorrealba
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I tried to check the fuse behind the CIC/iDrive to see if it was shorted but it turns out that the fuse was fine



such a pain to get to the back of the CIC



So now this begs the question, where could the #14 fuse be presented with a short?

Could anyone please tell me what the #14 fuse is for regarding the Heads Up
Display/HUD/iDrive Infotainment


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      05-22-2019, 03:43 PM   #6
atorrealba
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the TIS is claiming its connected to the CIC/battery fuse lead

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-m3-cou/2cAt8eus


can anyone shed some insight
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      08-23-2019, 12:17 AM   #7
aaron604
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my idrive stopped working after having the latest recall fixed at the dealer, it was fine for a day and then just died on me this morning. has anyone else experienced this? i think the recall was "positive battery cable".
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      03-20-2021, 12:45 PM   #8
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What was your fix ?
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      03-20-2021, 11:23 PM   #9
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If I were you, I would call the dealership, ask to speak with a service tech, and have him look up your VIN to see when your extended warranty expires for your FRM.

Mine is a 2011, and I have until this June to get the FRM replaced under warranty.

It may or may not be the culprit, but at least you've checkmarked that box as an option.
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      03-22-2021, 08:15 PM   #10
nyc4runnin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSlug View Post
If I were you, I would call the dealership, ask to speak with a service tech, and have him look up your VIN to see when your extended warranty expires for your FRM.

Mine is a 2011, and I have until this June to get the FRM replaced under warranty.

It may or may not be the culprit, but at least you've checkmarked that box as an option.
I have a separate issue with my FRM, wont take the bulb check coding using myCarly. MY09 also wasnt included in the FRM extended warranty. Gonna see if they can good will it or something ... I gotta get the battery cable recall done too.
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      11-28-2021, 10:02 PM   #11
Mb1068
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Idrive controller issue

Did you ever find fix for this problem . I also have suspected bad frm and am sending out out for repair, but not sure how this would also cause the idrive controller to stop working ? Nav unit itself works fine (screen) as do radio buttons and steering wheel buttons for volume etc. but mouse and buttons by gear selector do nothing . Scanner shows comms error on can bus .. fuses are good and unit has power …
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