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      07-23-2012, 10:28 AM   #89
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I changed everything in my e60
my M3 is only 6500km will go track in september
but I hate the rear end rattle any way to end that?
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      07-23-2012, 11:13 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyBobby
Quote:
Originally Posted by klammer View Post
Just had my first little hiccup with the ride. After waking up at 3:30 am (about 10 days ago) driving to road america, spending all day on track and then driving home (brutal day for the car), get a check engine light, reduced power and car won't go over 45 mph or 4500 rpm (weird symmetry). Pull over, turn car off, back on, finish drive home. Out of town for a week, come back and car will barely drive. CEL, limp mode, car's just hurting. Was freaking. Bring car in and apparently it's the brake booster. Car thinks I have no brakes and throws it in limp mode. All fixed and will test that as have a string of 3 track days in the next 3 consecutive Mondays. Fingers crossed. And yes, fixed under warranty
The dealer didn't have any issues your Alcon's from a warranty standpoint?
No issue, but have a good relationship with the SA and a little help from my friends.
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      07-23-2012, 07:41 PM   #91
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Just got back from the track. Super hot, car ran flawlessly. Can't believe a brake booster sensor malfunction caused the car to run so badly, but she ran like a champ today so can't argue with the results
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      07-24-2012, 02:29 AM   #92
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      07-24-2012, 05:30 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klammer View Post
Just got back from the track. Super hot, car ran flawlessly. Can't believe a brake booster sensor malfunction caused the car to run so badly, but she ran like a champ today so can't argue with the results
Glad to hear all is good! I find it VERY difficult to drive at the track when you don't have confidence that it will get you home.
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      08-23-2012, 11:01 AM   #94
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I did my first track day in this car at ThunderHill this past weekend... 2 days of 100 degree+ temps...

my setup:

Tires: NT-01s
Brakes: Carbotech XP10s
Suspension: TCKline single tube coil overs

here is what i observed:

1) power steering leak like everyone else.
2) a little moaning on my front rotors now that i have gone back to OEM pads...

but thats it. it was a champ!
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      09-20-2012, 07:59 AM   #95
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Got back from a 2000 mile roundtrip with some track time and car is still holding up great. Have over 40k on the odometer with close to 60 track days and she's doing great. Just had the front control arms replaced under warranty, thanks BMW/IND and she rocks
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      09-20-2012, 05:43 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klammer View Post
Got back from a 2000 mile roundtrip with some track time and car is still holding up great. Have over 40k on the odometer with close to 60 track days and she's doing great. Just had the front control arms replaced under warranty, thanks BMW/IND and she rocks
That's a good amount of miles, and a huge amount of track days! Glad the car is holding up well. What tipped you off to needing new front control arms?
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      09-20-2012, 05:45 PM   #97
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What brought on the control arm replacement? Bushing or ball joint wear?
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      09-20-2012, 05:47 PM   #98
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I have roughly 19,800 miles now, and around 22 total trackdays on the car. Doing very well. Today I was at the dealer for a scheduled oil change and the computer indicated that I needed new spark plugs, which they did under maintenance/warranty. SA mentioned that it's early to need new plugs, but it makes sense given the track use, and the plugs looked like they needed to be changed. Anyone else change their plugs early?
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      09-20-2012, 07:15 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
That's a good amount of miles, and a huge amount of track days! Glad the car is holding up well. What tipped you off to needing new front control arms?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
What brought on the control arm replacement? Bushing or ball joint wear?
It was the ball joints according to the tech. Went in for some minor upgrades (Dinan monoball kit, rd sport sways, delrin subframe bushings) prior to the trip to VIR as well as oil change and brake swap and was discovered then. I knew or felt nothing out of the ordinary...but after the new control arms and all the "upgrades" the car feels really tight and very responsive. Love it
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      09-20-2012, 07:16 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
I have roughly 19,800 miles now, and around 22 total trackdays on the car. Doing very well. Today I was at the dealer for a scheduled oil change and the computer indicated that I needed new spark plugs, which they did under maintenance/warranty. SA mentioned that it's early to need new plugs, but it makes sense given the track use, and the plugs looked like they needed to be changed. Anyone else change their plugs early?
I just had my changed at my 30,000 at the beginning of the year, but not early.
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      09-20-2012, 10:35 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
I have roughly 19,800 miles now, and around 22 total trackdays on the car. Doing very well. Today I was at the dealer for a scheduled oil change and the computer indicated that I needed new spark plugs, which they did under maintenance/warranty. SA mentioned that it's early to need new plugs, but it makes sense given the track use, and the plugs looked like they needed to be changed. Anyone else change their plugs early?
Mine where done at about the same mileage with less track days. About 12-15 at the time maybe less.
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      09-21-2012, 06:22 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klammer View Post
It was the ball joints according to the tech. Went in for some minor upgrades (Dinan monoball kit, rd sport sways, delrin subframe bushings) prior to the trip to VIR as well as oil change and brake swap and was discovered then. I knew or felt nothing out of the ordinary...but after the new control arms and all the "upgrades" the car feels really tight and very responsive. Love it
I spect I could benefit from this upgrade too. Have a 335 loaner for a standard service visit, and it feels much tighter.
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      12-04-2012, 06:22 PM   #103
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Thinking about a track day for my E92. 30k on the clock, bone stock.
I'm considering putting better pads on just for the track day but leaving the stock rotors. Then I'd like to put the stock pads back on for DD.
Anyone doing this? If so, what pads do you recommend and are you seeing any issues with swapping back and forth?
TIA!
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      12-04-2012, 06:30 PM   #104
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Only issue is swapping is a PIA. I use PF01s and a lot of people like the Pagid yellows. The PF01s don't last very long on the OEM brakes.
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      12-06-2012, 03:18 PM   #105
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If you are going to use track pads, I recommend endurance pads like the Pagid yellows or PFC 06 (or 08). Shouldn't be any problems swapping back and forth though each pad will have to put down a transfer layer so ultimate braking performance will be delayed until that is done. I use PFC pads for street and track (z-rated on street, 06's on track). That way I don't have the transfer layer issue nearly as bad when swapping back and forth. Stock pads are crap after a few hard stops, so you really should put in the track pads for HPDEs.
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      01-01-2013, 11:23 AM   #106
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Sweet thread! Thanks for starting, OP, and quality input from everyone who's contributed.
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      04-04-2013, 01:36 PM   #107
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So far, besides the normal consumables (pads, rotors, tires, oils, etc.) the only thing that I have already had to change are the front wheel bearings.

Given the (poor) quality of the roads in tri-state area, I am not sure if I can really blame this on the track usage.

Other than that, rock solid car @ 60k miles. (knock on wood).

Another recommendation for everybody to save a few bucks: disconnect the break pad sensors when going to the track because the heat is going to weaken the plastic parts and will end up making them very brittle (i.e., you will need to change these more rapidly). Just zip-tie them to the break line or somewhere.

Also, a heads up for you guys who like to DIY the maintenance: I believe that due to the severe heat cycles that result from the track use, some of the components such as rotors, wheel hub/bearing, etc... end up "warping" a little bit and they can be tough to remove from the car. Dont ask why I know...
--> At this point, I would probably receommend that you buy the extended maintenance coverage as the parts + labor add up quickly.

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bone stock car / Pagid Yellow pads / Yokohama AD-O8s (255 X 275) on 19" wheels
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      04-18-2013, 05:20 AM   #108
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^ hey bro, thanks for advice. great point. i didn't even think about this.
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      05-09-2013, 05:13 AM   #109
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24K miles, 25+ total trackdays.

Cracked windshield

Loose differential bolts, causing fluid leak. Checked, retorqued by dealer.
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      05-09-2013, 12:28 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98
24K miles, 25+ total trackdays.

Cracked windshield

Loose differential bolts, causing fluid leak. Checked, retorqued by dealer.
Are you referring to the drain bolt being loose or some other bolt on the differential?
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