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      06-20-2019, 04:40 PM   #1
SanFranciscoM3
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Brake Deposits Haven't Gone Away

I've read the posts on brake deposits vs rotor warpage.

If my shudder under breaking hasn't resolved after 25 days of driving (maybe 1000 miles total, usually road trips) over 1 year, does it definitely mean that my rotors are warped and need to be replaced? My shop initially said it was rotor deposits but now are saying its warped rotors because it hasn't gone away.

I've read about getting race pads to clean off deposits but that seems like kind of a PITA vs using an aggressive technique to get the deposits off with OEM pads.

FYI 2008 E92 M3, garage queen, 30,000 miles.
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      06-20-2019, 04:51 PM   #2
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I would suggest trying the bedding in with race pads solution first.

https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia...c-8-2018_1.pdf
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      06-20-2019, 04:52 PM   #3
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You could find a place to turn (basically grinding down the rotors) the rotors. But not sure the cost benefit is there vs buying new rotors . You’d need to remove the rotors to put them on the machine
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      06-20-2019, 05:10 PM   #4
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Or buy hawk blue pads and drive around for a day or two and it will take some depth off your rotors
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      06-20-2019, 05:30 PM   #5
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Great. So is the recommendation to buy some track brake pads (e.g. hawk blue), have them installed, drive around for a bit, and then go back to the original partly worn OEM pads? Or install new OEM pads after getting the deposits off with track brake pads. I've read some of the threads but that part was not clear.
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      06-20-2019, 05:57 PM   #6
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Essex has a good way to cut the rotors for swapping pads. This should be applicable to this as well.

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      06-20-2019, 10:02 PM   #7
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Where is the best place to buy the hawk blue pads?
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      06-20-2019, 10:09 PM   #8
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Also, i’m still not clear on whether the partly used oem street pads can be replaced or if you need to get new pads after removing deposits with hawk blue.
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      06-21-2019, 11:21 AM   #9
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One other thing that has sometimes worked for me - get the rotors relatively warm, then spray BOTH SIDES (meaning you’ll need to get down on your back on the ground with the hose to make sure you wet both sides of eh rotor with water) and let them rust up over a day or so

Then do light bed procedure multiple 60-20 slowdowns in a row 7-8 of them
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