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10-30-2019, 06:29 PM | #1 |
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Battery Keeps Dying *Increased Battery Discharge*
Hello Guys,
Thanks to everyone here this has been a great community to me, need help once again. Been chasing some gremlins with my battery lately. Full background shared below, 3-6 months ago: Randomly just sitting in the car, I'd get the warning on the idrive display stating that there was an increased battery discharge. I'd cut the car completely off and shut the door. Battery never died. Car always started without issues. I did have the recall on the battery cable performed during this timeframe too. Around 2 months ago: Had DME replaced and had some coding done on the car. I'd get the symbol on the spedo showing the car on the ramp in yellow. Never got that before. Maybe due to the brake pad wear sensor. About a month or 1 1/2 months ago: car completely dead. had to jump repeatedly, even if driven daily. By morning the car was dead. Started to use a trickle charger overnight. Troubleshooting performed: Monitored draining amperage from battery, fluctuates between ~.010-.030. Video linked of multi-meter (sorry for the orientation). Voltage overnight without being on the charger was around 11.5 volts. Completely charged it'd be around 12.5 volts Running it was around ~14.5 volts https://photos.app.goo.gl/PbFEstQLWucMtnAE8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/qbhqocEe69QLf6Su7 Read some threads on the EDC being the culprit, disconnected it and the results above are AFTER it was disconnected. Checked the current status of the battery being registered and using my foxwell it showed 'AGM 90'. I disconnected the battery so I could see what I actually have. It shows 'AGM H8' I don't believe that is the correct coding for that battery size. Please correct me if I'm wrong though. Could the battery coding cause it to discharge like that? Is that a healthy rate? I don't think so if the battery continues to be dead by morning when daily driving the car. If not what can I do to continue to narrow down - I've heard taking out the fuses, but being that it fluctuates so much I think it would be hard to tell what would make it drop completely. Afraid to just get a new battery and that just drains and dies. I have the battery charging tonight and I'll check once I get off tomorrow afternoon and I'll report back on the health of it. Last edited by Macpsi; 01-26-2022 at 08:01 AM.. |
10-30-2019, 08:01 PM | #2 |
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I had the same problem after trying out the cigarette lighter once. I removed the cigarette lighter and don't use that power source for anything. I charged the battery for 8 hours after having to jump it, and haven't had a problem since. It's been over a year.
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10-30-2019, 08:05 PM | #3 |
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The one near the shifter or in the armrest?
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10-30-2019, 08:06 PM | #4 |
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The one where an ashtray would go in front of shifter.
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10-30-2019, 08:09 PM | #5 |
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10-30-2019, 08:11 PM | #7 |
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10-30-2019, 10:50 PM | #8 |
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Most weird electrical issues are caused by an old batt. If the batt is older than 4 years then the first thing I'd do is change the battery before going crazy trying to find other issues.
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10-31-2019, 02:11 PM | #9 |
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Probably right, this morning had a green light on the charger and it measured only 12.25 volts not the 12.4+ that it should. Going to purchase a battery and installing it this afternoon. Will report back after I take the car out driving the next few days.
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11-03-2019, 09:11 AM | #10 |
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Any issues with the trunk opening? I had some similar warnings when a couple of wires from the trunk lid cracked and eventually broke. You may not even be able to open it without a key if they break.
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11-06-2019, 05:14 PM | #11 |
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Update:
Purchased a battery last Thursday and installed it the same night. Since I've installed the battery I have had no issues. I even noticed a difference in the way the car cranks now, much quicker and no hesitation between when I press the button and when the starter engages. |
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11-19-2019, 10:28 PM | #12 |
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1-Battery is old or just got discharged.
2-the car on the lift icon is just a service interval for chassis inspection. Reset it and move along or pay BMW to look under your car for 5 minutes and say all is good unless you suspect a worn component like a bushing or sway bar link. 3-Probably the result of #1 and that old/dead battery. If the month and year written/stamped on your batt are older than 4 years just replace it and be done before you kill your alternator. Good luck bra! Remember.....new battery needs to be coded in NOT JUST REPLACED AND INSTALLED
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11-26-2019, 06:32 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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11-26-2019, 04:52 PM | #14 | ||
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Quote:
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12-09-2019, 08:12 AM | #15 |
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Have this same Battery Discharge problem. Tried disconnecting battery and charging it. Battery passes load test diagnostics. Newer GMT battery. Battery was coded. Maybe I should do that again? Car is fine if I drive daily, but discharge alarm remains. I suspect it has something to do with the Comfort Access nonsense. The proximity sensors don't unlock the doors whenever this discharge alarm is cycling...
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01-02-2020, 06:08 PM | #16 |
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Culprit may also be the USB port in the armrest if you have something permanently plugged in like an old iPod or something.
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