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      09-01-2018, 10:21 PM   #1
LastMCar
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ESS 625+ Heat Exchanger Upgrade $150

I am working on lowering my IAT’s for daily driving and occasional track event. It is hot and dry in Vegas, air intakes soar and power plummets. Particularly in the summer. I have decided to upgrade the front mount heat exchanger that comes with the kit. This post covers the install of the new unit. I am also installing a trunk mounted reservoir for ice, but also to hopefully achieve lower overall IAT temps. That ice box install has been well documented by LongBoard, I will document mine in an another post. For the modest cost of $150-$175, I decided to also upgrade the HE (heat exchanger). I will update this post as I test.

Parts needed

*dremel tool or similar for trimming away some plastic
*Drill bits, drill
*Wrench/socket set

Mounts
-Reused original L brackets with widened mounting holes
-6x 1/2-3/4 mounting bolts,nuts,washers ($3.00)
-1/8 Steel or similar 2x6in pieces ($6.00)

Fittings- I used brass fittings, you can also source pretty AN race fittings from various online sources.
-3/4 FIH to FIP Coupler x2 ($8.00)
-3/4 MIP Barb x2 (8.00)

Exchanger ($129 shipped)(made in the USA)
http://www.speedcooling.com/liquid-i...exchanger.html

This it our all new aluminum heat exchanger for liquid intercooled applications. The other units you see on Ebay are crappy 3-rows knock-offs of our units, we've been making these in-house in the USA since 2005. It features 2-rows of 1.0" tubes (NO 3-ROW GIMMICKS) and dual AN10 fittings for connecting to your liquid intercooler system. Designed to handle up to 450 horsepower, we can custom build larger sizes with 2" tubes and 1-1/4" tubes for higher hosepower applications. Contact us directly for special requirements for your turbocharged system.

1. Remove bumper and under panels.
2. Drain system at the pump.
3. Remove old heat exchanger, mounts and brackets, drain
4. Widen the single hole side of the L brackets from the original mounts
5. Mount the HE in the space between the underside of the bumper and the lower plastic bumper air dam surround. It fits perfectly.
6. center the HE and drill holes in the bumper support for the L brackets. To get the HE to fit properly you will need to Dremel away some of the upper air dam surround ring.
7. I used 1/8”x1” Flat Steel to fab/bend some brackets for the lower mounts, drill holes as needed
8. Mount it all up and install your fittings
9. The hose from the pump runs perfectly to the new HE
10. Remove the coolant hose that runs from the front of the intake plenum. Reverse its orientation so that the 90’ bend is at the HE, running up. I chose to thread the upper hose to the intake plenum thru the gaps along the side of radiator and out from under the area under the headlight. Trim to fit barb at manifold.

Notes:
I would say this new HE is about 2x as deep, a bit narrower overall. The pictures say a lot. The fitment is tight against the bumper mesh yet still creates ample air gap between the HE and oil cooler. There is plenty of room for the fittings and lines. You don’t need to purchase new hose if you just do the HE upgrade. I did some trimming of the HE mounts and used some recycled weather stripping along the HE tank lip to create a cushion against the bumper support.


*as mentioned I am also running lines for an ice box. I chose to purchase some presewn heat shield from fleabay for all the hoses. ($17 10ft 1.25” diameter)

I’m excited to test!
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      09-02-2018, 12:34 AM   #2
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Thanks for sharing this! It's on my to-do list now.

I'm surprised you didn't need new hoses as the old heat exchanger had in and out on opposite sides and this has them on the same side.

I don't know if it's a good idea to mix brass and aluminum hose fittings, may have corrosion(?)

The heat exchanger gives away the sleeper status a little. Looks like a FMIC.
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      09-02-2018, 08:18 AM   #3
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Please share results on the IAT.
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      09-02-2018, 11:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JsL View Post
Thanks for sharing this! It's on my to-do list now.

I'm surprised you didn't need new hoses as the old heat exchanger had in and out on opposite sides and this has them on the same side.

I don't know if it's a good idea to mix brass and aluminum hose fittings, may have corrosion(?)

The heat exchanger gives away the sleeper status a little. Looks like a FMIC.
The new routing of the hose eliminates close to 2 feet of hose run

Once the system is proven working I will swap out for AN fittings, the AN fittings alone are close to $100 for everything. 👎🏻
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      09-02-2018, 12:05 PM   #5
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Try to find stainless fittings on McMaster Carr.

I'm thinking stainless will be a little better than brass in terms of corrosion.
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      09-02-2018, 12:55 PM   #6
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Great job
I think a larger are facial area and moving away from the oil cooler would net better results. I'm projecting higher oil temps with that unit.

Have you thought of mounting the other heat exchanger somewhere else for additional cooling?
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      09-02-2018, 02:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JsL View Post
Try to find stainless fittings on McMaster Carr.

I'm thinking stainless will be a little better than brass in terms of corrosion.
The fittings can be sourced from various amazon spots, all aluminum. It’s about $50 shipped for just the HE upgrade, 90 with the ice tank. I wanted this weekend to get the install done. I will post what is needed when I sort it all out.

Last edited by LastMCar; 09-02-2018 at 02:54 PM.
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      09-02-2018, 02:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrón View Post
Great job
I think a larger are facial area and moving away from the oil cooler would net better results. I'm projecting higher oil temps with that unit.

Have you thought of mounting the other heat exchanger somewhere else for additional cooling?
I had similar concerns, but the air gap is essentially the same as the ess unit. We shall see.
I am disappointed with the stock oem oil cooler, but research seems to indicate that the aftermarket options only offer quicker cool down, not lower overall temps. I have emailed BimmerWorld and Mishimoti about adapter fittings that would allow for the use of an aftermarket unit in the space right behind the kidneys. *I have a Oil Diverter valve installed which had lowered my peak oil temps 10-15 degrees. I have a post about it.
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      09-02-2018, 11:45 PM   #9
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Nice find. This plus the water tank will be a terrific combination to keep IATs as low as possible.
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      09-04-2018, 03:06 PM   #10
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If you sell this as a kit including all the fittings/brackets/hardware, I would purchase it. I would be very interested in seeing the before and after IAT and oil temp results.

Good work!
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