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      03-31-2022, 10:11 AM   #45
BeaterM3
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Originally Posted by L1FHR View Post
Hi y'all,

My 2013 M3 is 8yrs old now. So far the car only have less than 41K miles.
I'm looking and considering to get a battery replacement for the car.

Any suggestions which battery should I get?
If anyone have a list of batteries with their information so I can look at which one is the best with the least amount of weight, that'll be great.

Any recommendation is appreciated. Thanks
Go with an Odyssey - Performance Group 49/H8 -950. The thing is a beast.
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      03-31-2022, 11:26 AM   #46
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The best way to do this is buy the cheapest decent battery (usually interstate from Costco), and just plan on replacing it every 5 years. Eking out extra life from a more expensive (and likely not actually better) battery is silly. Every battery out there is going to have a fairly similar lifetime.
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      03-31-2022, 11:51 AM   #47
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I think I will go with the Duracell H6 if I go the AGM route, but now I am thinking about the Antigravity 60aH. Hard to justify it economically, but in theory it packs a punch and can last 8-10 years, with no downside but cost. There are so few things we can do to these cars with truly no downside or compromise.

Last edited by wyatth; 03-31-2022 at 11:36 PM..
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      03-31-2022, 11:14 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyatth View Post
I think I will go with the Duracell H6 if I go the AGM route, but now I am thinking about the Antigravity 60aH. Hard to justify it economically, but in theory it packs a punch and can last 8-10 years, with no downside but cost. There are so few things we can do these cars with truly no downside or compromise.
+1 . Antigravity for sure. I have one on my Ferrari and it is great... Starter is much quicker to spin and I can tell you.... the weight difference is huge!

I will get one for my M3 soon...
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      04-01-2022, 09:50 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyatth View Post
Somewhat bumping a recent, relevant thread. I'm getting ready to replace my battery and I've decided on an H6/48 AGM battery. I've narrowed it down the Odyssey Performance 48-720 (720 CCA, 69Ah, reserve capacity 130, 48lb) and the Duracell SLI48AGM (760 CCA, 70Ah, reserve capacity 120, 44lb). Both are made in the US, have good specs within their class/size, and have solid reviews overall. I was looking at the Optima but it no longer punches well in this weight class, and reviews since they've moved manufacturing to Mexico are too spotty. The OE (Exide?) Z4M battery is another option and specs are in line (680 CCA, 70Ah, 45lb). I'm wondering if anybody has used these particular batteries and what you thought. On the surface, the Duracell seems a hair better.
.
https://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...ultra/sli48agm

https://www.batterysystems.net/odyss...723cca-battery
My research led me to this exact same Duracell Ultra Premium AGM product line though I went with the "49" size series = SLI49AGM from Batteries & Bulbs and it has performed flawlessly since installation in Feb-2019 three years ago now.
.
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Last edited by DrFerry; 02-21-2024 at 05:09 PM..
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      04-01-2022, 12:54 PM   #50
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I went with duralast from autozone. My buddy got me an h8 platinum for $170 so I couldn't pass it up. The lightweight options seem cool but my car is full weight so I don't think I'd notice the 50 lbs
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      04-03-2022, 07:23 PM   #51
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The most expensive car battery I've ever bought, but on a ultra-low mile garage queen, I've been killing batteries every 2-3 years.
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      04-05-2022, 10:27 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alee0729 View Post
The most expensive car battery I've ever bought, but on a ultra-low mile garage queen, I've been killing batteries every 2-3 years.
Why did you go with the 80ah? I thought the 60ah was the recommended lithium.
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      04-06-2022, 08:36 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meko View Post
Why did you go with the 80ah? I thought the 60ah was the recommended lithium.
I have a very rarely driven car that cannot easily be put on a tender. The extra 20Ah is basically just an extra safety cushion if I can't get to the car to put it on a tender soon enough.

Don't want the battery to shutdown on me if I can avoid it or I lose my OBD2 memory and have to get all my emissions sensors back to ready state.
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      04-06-2022, 03:27 PM   #54
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      04-06-2022, 03:37 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaterM3 View Post
Go with an Odyssey - Performance Group 49/H8 -950. The thing is a beast.
I did this. Bought through FCP and it was so inexpensive and no core charge
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      04-06-2022, 04:12 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anselmw View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaterM3 View Post
Go with an Odyssey - Performance Group 49/H8 -950. The thing is a beast.
I did this. Bought through FCP and it was so inexpensive and no core charge
How much $ to ship a 50lb battery?
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      04-06-2022, 04:32 PM   #57
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I went to the dealer and bought my battery, was around $300 after tax
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      04-06-2022, 04:44 PM   #58
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Go OEM. Nobody knows better than the german engineers that made the car.
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      04-06-2022, 06:08 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion94 View Post
Go OEM. Nobody knows better than the german engineers that made the car.
On many parts, I would agree with you. On batteries, not so much. If you are not going ultra-low-weight then a battery is just a battery. Pick a brand or vendor or warranty period that you like and just go with it. There is very little difference between 1 battery and another, and paying double because it say BMW on it makes no sense. You don't think they make those batteries in-house do you?
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      04-06-2022, 06:12 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbuck View Post
On many parts, I would agree with you. On batteries, not so much. If you are not going ultra-low-weight then a battery is just a battery. Pick a brand or vendor or warranty period that you like and just go with it. There is very little difference between 1 battery and another, and paying double because it say BMW on it makes no sense. You don't think they make those batteries in-house do you?
I agree, they don't make the battery in the house but the specs on them are exactly what you need for the car. Most likely you are 100% correct and any other brand of battery that fits, will work (that's why you also have options to code different capacity of batteries I guess).
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      04-06-2022, 07:54 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion94 View Post
Go OEM. Nobody knows better than the german engineers that made the car.
guess you missed the whole rod bearing thread?
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      04-07-2022, 02:11 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
How much $ to ship a 50lb battery?
Was 260 and free shipping
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      04-07-2022, 12:19 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion94 View Post
Go OEM. Nobody knows better than the german engineers that made the car.
BMW doesn't make the battery. They just put their label on Exide batteries. It's not anything special.

As long as you have enough power to start the car from cold, the battery doesn't do much other than being a buffer for power demands while the car engine (and alternator) are running.

If you drive every day, you can get away with a smaller battery as long as it has enough CCA (cold cranking amps) to get the V8 fired up. OE spec is 850 CCA.

If you drive infrequently, you'll need a battery that can tolerate deep cycle charges (e.g. AGM). Lithium is popular because the power output is linear - regular batteries are basically useless below 50% charge, but a lithium will still start you at 20%. More amp-hours gives you more time between drives.
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      04-11-2022, 12:43 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alee0729 View Post
BMW doesn't make the battery. They just put their label on Exide batteries. It's not anything special.

As long as you have enough power to start the car from cold, the battery doesn't do much other than being a buffer for power demands while the car engine (and alternator) are running.

If you drive every day, you can get away with a smaller battery as long as it has enough CCA (cold cranking amps) to get the V8 fired up. OE spec is 850 CCA.

If you drive infrequently, you'll need a battery that can tolerate deep cycle charges (e.g. AGM). Lithium is popular because the power output is linear - regular batteries are basically useless below 50% charge, but a lithium will still start you at 20%. More amp-hours gives you more time between drives.


What about the deep cycles batteries like the Yellow Top?
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      04-11-2022, 06:02 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
What about the deep cycles batteries like the Yellow Top?
Just another AGM as far as I can tell Googling it.

Deep cycle is more just referring to the fact that they can tolerate being run all the way down without really "hurting" the battery. So if I leave the car in a garage for 6 months without being driven, the AGM will basically be flat. Lead acids don't really like that, but you can still top the AGM back up and it'll tolerate that pretty well.

They still face the general challenge of only about 50% of their capacity is truly usable. Honestly not a big issue for most of you folks who drive a few times a month or daily their car. More a problem for someone like me who drives the car maybe 5 times a year and don't have an easy way to run a tender in the garage (I have about 6950 miles on my car).
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      12-29-2022, 03:02 PM   #66
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Has anyone use the "Super Start Platinum Battery Group Size 49 H8" from O'Reilly's? and is it any good?
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