AGA Oil Drain Plug/Tool

[spxxx]

Figured I'd post this here since we're likely changing our oil much more often than typical drivers...

I know it's just a matter of time until I strip out my oil drain plug with multiple changes a year, has anyone used these? Not sure I fully trust the oil valve on track but there is the secondary cover. Seems pretty neat.

https://agatools.com/products/clean-oil-drain-plugs

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by spxxx

Figured I'd post this here since we're likely changing our oil much more often than typical drivers...

I know it's just a matter of time until I strip out my oil drain plug with multiple changes a year, has anyone used these? Not sure I fully trust the oil valve on track but there is the secondary cover. Seems pretty neat.

https://agatools.com/products/clean-oil-drain-plugs

i want that jackrod stand, but idk man. thats one expensive oil change mod, since you'd need the clean oil drain system too?

which is like $1200 lol.

and that tool thingy.

[leftfootbr8king]

I have the oil drain valve from stahlbus. Highly recommend. both my drain plugs were stripped when I got the car, and I had to timesert them.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

i want that jackrod stand, but idk man. thats one expensive oil change mod, since you'd need the clean oil drain system too?

which is like $1200 lol.

and that tool thingy.

Haha didn't look at pricing for the drain tool... Just the plug, that's pretty steep lol.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

I have the oil drain valve from stahlbus. Highly recommend. both my drain plugs were stripped when I got the car, and I had to timesert them.

This seems like a much more reasonable option, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

[Z K]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

I have the oil drain valve from stahlbus. Highly recommend. both my drain plugs were stripped when I got the car, and I had to timesert them.

The problem is, this sticks way down (about 20-30mm) on the oil pan. If you drive over anything that sticks up, you could rip it off the car and possibly destroy the oil pan.

The AGA tool seems to be much more compact, but at much more cost.

OEM plug is completely flush with the oil pan as BMW designed it that way.

[MaximusB]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

i want that jackrod stand, but idk man. thats one expensive oil change mod, since you'd need the clean oil drain system too?

which is like $1200 lol.

and that tool thingy.

I was poking around on their site. The $1200 pump is optional, not needed with their drain plug. What is needed is the $299 adapter that connects to their drain plug. Either way, it is a little steep for a drain plug when it'll cost almost $500 when all said and done.

[roastbeef]

i like it, but very expensive just to get started.

[leftfootbr8king]

Originally Posted by Z K

The problem is, this sticks way down (about 20-30mm) on the oil pan. If you drive over anything that sticks up, you could rip it off the car and possibly destroy the oil pan.

The AGA tool seems to be much more compact, but at much more cost.

OEM plug is completely flush with the oil pan as BMW designed it that way.

Sounds like you think the drain pan is the lowest thing on our cars up to that point rearward.

If I tear the cap off the stalhbus valve I've already wrecked a lot of other shit in front of it.

Perhaps our ride heights differ.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

Sounds like you think the drain pan is the lowest thing on our cars up to that point rearward.

If I tear the cap off the stalhbus valve I've already wrecked a lot of other shit in front of it.

Perhaps our ride heights differ.

i was just about to say this... even with blown engine mounts my oil pan wasn't anywhere near touching anything LOL. sure it was resting on the belly pan, but the drain bolt would still be out of harm's way.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

Sounds like you think the drain pan is the lowest thing on our cars up to that point rearward.

If I tear the cap off the stalhbus valve I've already wrecked a lot of other shit in front of it.

Perhaps our ride heights differ.

I actually hit a berm at Buttonwillow and my drain plug was ground down to maybe ~3mm across half of the plug surface, my splitter and other mechanical parts were fine. Luckily I was able to get a wrench on to remove the plug.

It's an ECS drain plug, seems that they can take a beating but I think that's a one off situation, have no idea how nothing else was damaged and doubt it'll happen again.

[Scrippy]

I have changed my oil so many times that I could no longer reset the CBS light. Apparently there is not enough memory on the ECU for such long use. I had to get the local dealer to code it out so it's only a dipstick now. It never lets me know anything other than level. In my 40+ oil changes I have never stripped my pan. In fact I have extra drain bolts in a jar as a result of buying service kits. A torque wrench set to 18ft lbs tells me not to go ape. I never put the bolts in a hot pan as well. A torque wrench is $25. How the fuck are yall stripping these? Is it the newton meters to foot pounds that is get'n ya or are we changing oil between track sessions?

[leftfootbr8king]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

I have changed my oil so many times that I could no longer reset the CBS light. Apparently there is not enough memory on the ECU for such long use. I had to get the local dealer to code it out so it's only a dipstick now. It never lets me know anything other than level. In my 40+ oil changes I have never stripped my pan. In fact I have extra drain bolts in a jar as a result of buying service kits. A torque wrench set to 18ft lbs tells me not to go ape. I never put the bolts in a hot pan as well. A torque wrench is $25. How the fuck are yall stripping these? Is it the newton meters to foot pounds that is get'n ya or are we changing oil between track sessions?

Is it 18 foot pounds or 18 ugga-duggas?

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

I have changed my oil so many times that I could no longer reset the CBS light. Apparently there is not enough memory on the ECU for such long use. I had to get the local dealer to code it out so it's only a dipstick now. It never lets me know anything other than level. In my 40+ oil changes I have never stripped my pan. In fact I have extra drain bolts in a jar as a result of buying service kits. A torque wrench set to 18ft lbs tells me not to go ape. I never put the bolts in a hot pan as well. A torque wrench is $25. How the fuck are yall stripping these? Is it the newton meters to foot pounds that is get'n ya or are we changing oil between track sessions?

I haven't stripped mine just want to waste money on unnecessary tools.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by spxxx

I haven't stripped mine just want to waste money on unnecessary tools.

Hahaaa, that's all of our problem too.

[Ximian]

The Fumoto oil drain valve or the "EZ Oil Drain Valve" seem better in every way. Where's the benefit of this?

[Z K]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

Sounds like you think the drain pan is the lowest thing on our cars up to that point rearward.

If I tear the cap off the stalhbus valve I've already wrecked a lot of other shit in front of it.

Perhaps our ride heights differ.

There's a lot of road debris and on track, as mentioned by spxxx, you hit berms and can put a wheel off which exposes the bottom to hitting the ground. I have destroyed my plastic undertray and scraped up the oil pan before on track - and this is on a stock height car. I'm pretty sure I'd have sheered off anything that sticks out more than 5-10mm from the oil pan.

Here's a video of my off track adventure.

[leftfootbr8king]

All I'm seeing is miles of endless, low/no consequence runoff.

If we're presenting anecdotal evidence, I've got some. I went off at VIR, skidded across the grass and was promptly met with a tire wall. Chassis mounted splitter: busted off and went flying. Mporium under tray: wrecked.

The stalhbus drain plug cover was untouched though.

[leftfootbr8king]

Btw: while the aluminum under tray was decently bent up it did an awesome job of protecting everything it was designed to protect. I replaced it but I definitely could have unbolted it, bent it back straight and ran it for my next off pavement adventure.

Btw, there's a free, slightly mporium undertray available for pickup in SC if someone wants it.

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by Z K

There's a lot of road debris and on track, as mentioned by spxxx, you hit berms and can put a wheel off which exposes the bottom to hitting the ground. I have destroyed my plastic undertray and scraped up the oil pan before on track - and this is on a stock height car. I'm pretty sure I'd have sheered off anything that sticks out more than 5-10mm from the oil pan.

Here's a video of my off track adventure.

Not a response to the drain plug or the skid plate, but an observation about T9 at Thunderhill East.

You aren't alone with what happened coming over the hill.

The video below is a sweet M4 that goes off in the same place you did, on the out lap no less.
He turns in later than I was shown, he ends up in the middle of the track at the top of the hill, so then he has to get the car turned back to the right.
Chassis is unloaded, steering angle to the right and the engine is coming onto the sweet spot.
Couple that with his decision to turn OFF the traction control for the first time prior to gridding.

His car (leased) made the trip home on a flatbed…

You handled the situation WAAAAY better than he did.

[Z K]

Originally Posted by Davisca455

Not a response to the drain plug or the skid plate, but an observation about T9 at Thunderhill East.

You aren't alone with what happened coming over the hill.

The video below is a sweet M4 that goes off in the same place you did, on the out lap no less.
He turns in later than I was shown, he ends up in the middle of the track at the top of the hill, so then he has to get the car turned back to the right.
Chassis is unloaded, steering angle to the right and the engine is coming onto the sweet spot.
Couple that with his decision to turn OFF the traction control for the first time prior to gridding.

His car (leased) made the trip home on a flatbed…

You handled the situation WAAAAY better than he did.

That section of the track falls away pretty fast so without a lot of downforce, the car gets light there. Any steering angle and you'll go off in any relatively powerful RWD car. I used to take this line all the time with FWD and AWD cars with no problem.

I learned my lesson, I now let the car track out left to the middle of the track with no steering angle before coming back to the right for the next corner.

As for handling the situation, I've spun so many times at all sorts of weird angles with years of autocross that I always remember to go off straight and two feet in on the clutch and brake.

That guy got it much worse!

[spxxx]

I've somehow avoided tragedy twice now... Got lucky last month, went 2-off coming out of cotton corners and was essentially riding on the steel skid plate for a few feet. Another member here actually broke off his OEM drain plug off in that same location due to the large drop-off, luckily he shut it off before the engine ate itself. Glad my Alumalite splash guard took some of the impact, just replaced it with a Pinnacle piece.

Really want some sort of additional protection for the oil drain plug opening. Might start a fun flat bottom / extended front splitter project for the winter.