Track forum general chit chat.

[b4hand]

I wonder what my Rs1's can take

[derbo]

Originally Posted by DRLane

I have 500/800 Hyperco 2.25" springs in 5" and 8" available if you'd like them to test. Happily sell then for cheap.

If the 600 5" / 900 8" test doesn't go as plan, I'll likely hit you up if you still have them.

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by b4hand

I wonder what my Rs1's can take

I'm running 700/1000 on JRZ RS One which I think is a newer revision. Running 18-20 clicks up from full soft. Have had a test drive done by a better track driver and he said the setup feels good.

Of course they say Ohlins TTX would be better with high speed bumps, but it's a ton of money

[BishoMala]

Originally Posted by butte2butte

For your first track day? They should be fine. Oem pads are fine for your first day or two, and I cant imagine the bosch pads being much different from oem.

When your speeds pick up, none of the brands you mentioned make a pad that's a consensus track day pad, that I'm aware of.

Ferodo, PFC, Pagid, Hawk, Porterfield makes track pads in oem shape. Start there.

No it is not my first track day, but it is the first for this season. I usually go 2-3 times a year. the majority of my car's usage is on the road. But since they are identical to the OEM I believe they will be fine.

Thanks for your time and recommendations! cheers!

Originally Posted by dparm

The Bosch pads are just a basic street pad, they're equivalent to the OEM Textar pads.

They'll be fine for your first track day, just mind the pedal feel and check consumption throughout the day. You might get some streaking on the rotors from heat but that can be wiped clean through a quick re-bedding procedure.

Yea I guess they should perform as well as OEMs, as I don't really track it that often. I will happy with them if they match OEMs considering their price being almost 75% cheaper than OEM

Thanks!

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by derbo

I agree that data is the best form of convincing! I think the largest part is that I don't plan to run AERO and I plan to keep at the 200TW category of tires. I am very curious what you find out! 500/800 was originally what I was planning to get but for whatever reason I was convinced to 600/900. Who knows maybe it will be stupid and I'll end up back at 400/700 for the plush street ride.

LOL Yup! I thought ahead on this and went and had my KW's dyno'ed locally and and getting them back today. Talking to the the shop the best bet is going to be to go no more than a 700lb front spring on the KW's and 680 might even be pushing the limits based on the settings I typically run unless I crank up the compression. And as far as the rear goes, with the divorced setup it can go much more. Front-end grip has been my problem more than the rear so I'm going to start there and then mess with the rear later. I may come to find out Chris' 700/1100 is the answer after all but YMMV so I'm gonna play with it some lol

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by kyippee

I'm running 700/1000 on JRZ RS One which I think is a newer revision. Running 18-20 clicks up from full soft. Have had a test drive done by a better track driver and he said the setup feels good.

Of course they say Ohlins TTX would be better with high speed bumps, but it's a ton of money

Kyipee, If you have a 24 click range, according to Tim Olsen after 16 clicks the JRZ become super sensitive to each click.

I play with my JRZ clicks all the time trying to feel what each click does. I also don't have the exact JRZ you have.

So at the risk of making a recommendation, rather than an observation, I would recommend setting it on 15 clicks and then moving into 16,17,18 and so on, one click at a time.

Or start at 16, the one click at a time.

[LeveragedTiger]

Originally Posted by kyippee

I'm running 700/1000 on JRZ RS One which I think is a newer revision. Running 18-20 clicks up from full soft. Have had a test drive done by a better track driver and he said the setup feels good.

Of course they say Ohlins TTX would be better with high speed bumps, but it's a ton of money

Holy compression batman.

My MCS are 600/900, and the hardest I've set compression was 8 clicks out of 14 on the front, and 7 on the rear.

Based on what Richbot has said, I'll probably experiment with more 'street' settings going forward (I run 5 compression, 5 rebound on the street).

No aero, however.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by LeveragedTiger

Holy compression batman.

My MCS are 600/900, and the hardest I've set compression was 8 clicks out of 14 on the front, and 7 on the rear.

Based on what Richbot has said, I'll probably experiment with more 'street' settings going forward (I run 5 compression, 5 rebound on the street).

No aero, however.

Sounds like you have the setup I'm moving to.

Currently, with my soft-ass 400/700 I have my MCS set to Front: 13R/8C rear : 11R/5C

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Kyipee, If you have a 24 click range, according to Tim Olsen after 16 clicks the JRZ become super sensitive to each click.

I play with my JRZ clicks all the time trying to feel what each click does. I also don't have the exact JRZ you have.

So at the risk of making a recommendation, rather than an observation, I would recommend setting it on 15 clicks and then moving into 16,17,18 and so on, one click at a time.

Or start at 16, the one click at a time.

Thanks - my dampers go to 21 max. I started at 15 in the past and slowly ramped up to 18. With the springs change I tried 18 again... then 19, then 20 without feeling any negative changes. Didn't seem too snappy, but then again it's only been 4 track days or so with these settings. Had another driver test it at 20 and he indicated that it felt right to him.

Good reminder to try different settings. Maybe 19-20 was too much for the front.

2 days at Sonoma coming up 11/7 and 11/8. I'll try 16 clicks to start on Saturday and see how it goes, since the TT part is on Sunday. Plenty of time to experiment

[dparm]

Someone here had recently said that they don't like using the Hawk DTC pads because they leave deposits and ruin the finish on wheels.

Below is a picture of one of my front wheels which arguably gets exposure to more brake dust than the rear. This is a two year old wheel that has seen 24 track days (over 2,100 minutes) and four full sets of DTC-70s. They were coated with CQuartz Dlux before being installed, and the only wheel cleaners I use are CarPro Iron-X, Sonax Full Effect, or P21S gel with a microfibre mitt or small brush.

Also worth mentioning I drive these pads on the street and that means they get the rusty shitty water on them anytime there's bad weather.

There is no baked on dust or damage to the finish whatsoever, as you can see in these photos. Maybe Forgeline's powdercoating is extra-resilient and the ceramic coating provides additional protection, but my experience has not been that those pads are corrosive to wheels.

[b4hand]

Originally Posted by dparm

There is no baked on dust or damage to the finish whatsoever, as you can see in these photos. Maybe Forgeline's powdercoating is extra-resilient and the ceramic coating provides additional protection, but my experience has not been that those pads are corrosive to wheels.

DLUX is good stuff. It's interesting that you coated the wheels. Have you had problems with wheel weights not sticking?

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by b4hand

DLUX is good stuff. It's interesting that you coated the wheels. Have you had problems with wheel weights not sticking?

Aluminum tape ftw

[stefan_e36]

Hi, everyone!
front tires changed for michelin ps4s 255/35 r19
Rear michelin PS2, and in future I’ ll also change them for ps4s 275/35, but later
I am planning to use this tires on road and track days, 2-3 fast laps, and then cooling... as I understand, it is the optimal use for this tyre on track.
What do you think about this? Is this tyre will help me, or I’ll destroy them quickly?))

[rhyary]

My experience shows that the MPSS is better for track while the MPS4S is better for the road.

On a tight track with many 40-50 mph turns soft tires like the MPS4S deteriorate fast than a stiffer tire like the Ecsta PS91 or the FFI500.

Bottom line is that all Max Performance tires are good, the main difference is the price

Having said that, it is very much speed dependent and if you go slow, all are the same

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by rhyary

My experience shows that the MPSS is better for track while the MPS4S is better for the road.

Bottom line is that all Max Performance tires are good, the main difference is the price

I choose ps4s also because of the price $174 for 255-35 r19
Pss a bit expensive, near $200

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by stefan_e36

I choose ps4s also because of the price $174 for 255-35 r19
Pss a bit expensive, near $200

Good choice.
I thought the two are same price.

In the US, Tire Rack the 4s is $248 and SS is $251

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Good choice.
I thought the two are same price.

In the US, Tire Rack the 4s is $248 and SS is $251

In Ukraine prices are lower

Also l changed cambers
Front -1.25, not big, but ...
Rear -2.0

[Epoustouflant]

This might interest some of you. Been working on this since August.

GT4 wing board with high mounts for track usage, at an incredible price for German quality.

GB: GT4S CF Wing (made in Germany) https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1770383

[dparm]

Originally Posted by b4hand

DLUX is good stuff. It's interesting that you coated the wheels. Have you had problems with wheel weights not sticking?

Nope, as you can see by the multiple sections of wheel weight residue from previous tire mount balancing. :-)

[dparm]

Originally Posted by stefan_e36

Hi, everyone!
front tires changed for michelin ps4s 255/35 r19
Rear michelin PS2, and in future I’ ll also change them for ps4s 275/35, but later
I am planning to use this tires on road and track days, 2-3 fast laps, and then cooling... as I understand, it is the optimal use for this tyre on track.
What do you think about this? Is this tyre will help me, or I’ll destroy them quickly?))

You can do more than 2-3 laps at speed. Just don't over-drive the tire. Watch your pressures. They don't like a lot of slip angle, either.

I don't really recommend mixing tires unless it's absolutely necessary. The PS2 is a very old design and will have a lot less grip than the PS4S.

[stefan_e36]

Originally Posted by dparm

You can do more than 2-3 laps at speed. Just don't over-drive the tire. Watch your pressures. They don't like a lot of slip angle, either.

I don't really recommend mixing tires unless it's absolutely necessary. The PS2 is a very old design and will have a lot less grip than the PS4S.

Thanks a lot, ps2 will be changed for ps4s in neatest future

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by stefan_e36

Thanks a lot, ps2 will be changed for ps4s in neatest future

What size do you plan to run the rear together with the 255?