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      10-08-2016, 04:16 PM   #45
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I would just use aluminum flanges and rivet the flanges to the dust shield and the felt under tray cover. Should cost you less than $100. You might have a much easier time routing a 2.5" hose or dual 2" hoses through the suspension.

You can always flatten the hose out in places where clearance is limited to aid in getting it fitted up.

Aluminum flanges:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...uctflanges.php

3" hose:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Allstar-Perf...ZUopTG&vxp=mtr
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      10-10-2016, 11:23 AM   #46
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I went with the Cantrell complete kit. I'll keep this thread updated. Thanks for all the replies, folks!
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      10-10-2016, 01:11 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
I've searched and read most of the threads, but I'm still undecided. I'm leaning toward the Cantrell complete kit as I don't want to build this from scratch.

I have a StoptechTrophy ST-60/40 BBK, but I'm going through pads in 2 weekends/4 days. I've tried various pad materials including Pagid RS-29s, Stoptech SR34s, Carbotech XP-12s and now Cobalt Friction XR1s.

For those with the Cantrell kit, how's it working and holding up? Any other options that are relatively affordable?
I can burn through pads at that rate at COTA but no where else in Texas. If this is happening elsewhere I would look at adjusting your braking technique. Pretend you're in a Miata.

I installed the Cantrell kit 2-3 years ago and it works well; shields off the tie rod end from heat too. IIRC, I think I had a little interference with the rotor or hub that was easy to fix, just be sure to check everything before buttoning it up. The kit uses 2-1/2" hose versus the 3" that many others use but it's still very effective and easier to route.

My biggest problem with heat before installing this kit was my brake fluid, not burning up pads. Ducting and Ti pad shims solved most of that and upgrading to a BBK eliminated the soft pedal. My car is lighter though, which is a factor.
It's strange that I've never had issues with boiling the fluid (Motul RFB 600) yet I'm going through pads so quickly.

Thanks, Richard - hope to run with you again - it's been a while.
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      10-19-2016, 01:04 PM   #48
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Your technique can have a lot to do with that, are you using the brakes properly.
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      10-19-2016, 01:26 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
It's strange that I've never had issues with boiling the fluid (Motul RFB 600) yet I'm going through pads so quickly.
Do you use Ti shims?
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      10-19-2016, 08:04 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
It's strange that I've never had issues with boiling the fluid (Motul RFB 600) yet I'm going through pads so quickly.
Do you use Ti shims?
No shims, but I'll probably get them as I don't see how they can hurt and aren't too expensive.

Cantrell ducts are installed. My next event is this weekend.
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      10-19-2016, 08:05 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jims M3
Your technique can have a lot to do with that, are you using the brakes properly.
Define properly.
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      10-19-2016, 11:38 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
No shims, but I'll probably get them as I don't see how they can hurt and aren't too expensive.
The reason I asked is that I've heard that the shims keep the heat in the pads/rotors. It makes sense if you think about it since the shims keep heat from transferring into the caliper, the heat has to go somewhere and so it stays in the pads/rotors which causes pads to run hotter and thus wear faster.
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      10-20-2016, 10:38 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
Define properly.
I suspect he is referring, in general, for "inexperienced" drivers to overuse the brakes which would obviously put more heat into them.
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      10-20-2016, 10:44 AM   #54
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steering limiters is a nono for me. i need full opposite lock for fun times

did you get some already? let us know any updates!
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      10-20-2016, 12:17 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
Define properly.
1) Don't eat off of the brakes, or use them to cook
2) Do press the brake pedal firmly at the beginning of the brake zone to get max delta-V when it matters most before you've cooked the pads and while you have as much air as possible whipping around/across the brakes
3) Don't put pictures of your brakes on social media it's the brake abuser's hunting ground
4) Do always check the both inner and outer pads for wear
5) Don't wear the inner and outer pads as earrings
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      10-20-2016, 02:45 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
I suspect he is referring, in general, for "inexperienced" drivers to overuse the brakes which would obviously put more heat into them.
Yeah, even though I have 70-80 track days, I'm sure my braking technique can use some work. Sorry if this came off as a dick-like response.
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      10-20-2016, 04:07 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357 View Post
The reason I asked is that I've heard that the shims keep the heat in the pads/rotors. It makes sense if you think about it since the shims keep heat from transferring into the caliper, the heat has to go somewhere and so it stays in the pads/rotors which causes pads to run hotter and thus wear faster.
The temperature stickers will make it fairly obvious if shims are needed, as I said above.
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      10-20-2016, 04:12 PM   #58
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has anyone with a bbk used shims and actually noticed a difference? i'm a bit skeptical. braking characteristics can vary a lot based on external temps, tire temps, the track, etc.. i'm just not quite sure what to believe without instrumented testing.

Seems like it would be really easy to put a set of these on a brake dyno and test them with a laser thermometer.
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      10-20-2016, 04:26 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
5) Don't wear the inner and outer pads as earrings
Dammit! I guess I've been doing it wrong
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      10-20-2016, 11:04 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Number 86 View Post
steering limiters is a nono for me. i need full opposite lock for fun times

did you get some already? let us know any updates!
I bought the Turner steering rack limiters, but I didn't need them. The way the hose is routed, I still have an inch of space left at full lock.
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      10-21-2016, 12:35 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
I bought the Turner steering rack limiters, but I didn't need them. The way the hose is routed, I still have an inch of space left at full lock.
Interesting. The biggest perceived downside with any duct kit has been clearance at full lock. Would you be kind of enough to share the routing you used to avoid clearance issues?

Also, what wheel and tire setup are you using?
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      10-21-2016, 01:51 AM   #62
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What is the diameter of the ducting that rubs? I'd go 1/2" narrower if it didn't rub.

I've also thought of some sort of scoop that affixes to the lower control arm and blows into the center of the disk...
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      10-21-2016, 06:49 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hujan
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
I bought the Turner steering rack limiters, but I didn't need them. The way the hose is routed, I still have an inch of space left at full lock.
Interesting. The biggest perceived downside with any duct kit has been clearance at full lock. Would you be kind of enough to share the routing you used to avoid clearance issues?

Also, what wheel and tire setup are you using?
The tubing is routed behind the control arm. I'll take a pic this weekend. I'm running stock ZCP 19s with 12.5 Turner spacer and ARC-8s with 275/35/18 at the track. The tubing is 2.5" rather than the usual 3".
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      10-21-2016, 09:43 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbyrd View Post
The tubing is routed behind the control arm. I'll take a pic this weekend. I'm running stock ZCP 19s with 12.5 Turner spacer and ARC-8s with 275/35/18 at the track. The tubing is 2.5" rather than the usual 3".
Cool. So no rubbing at all even in street operation? That would be fantastic.
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      10-21-2016, 11:21 AM   #65
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Quote:
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Cool. So no rubbing at all even in street operation? That would be fantastic.
are you planning to run brake ducts for the street?
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      10-21-2016, 11:42 AM   #66
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Quote:
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are you planning to run brake ducts for the street?
Yep - I may have to replace the hosing occasionally which is not expensive. It's too much of a PIA to remove/install the hosing before and after every event. I'm already changing pads, wheels, camber and toe.
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