Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[Evgenyproject]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

The + cable of the camera should go directly to the Mr 12 Volt. The - should either go to a proper chassis ground like one of the bolts in the battery well. You are able to get the camera working without grounding it at all, and some have had this work better than grounding it. I tried this approach and am having some intermittent interference issues, still have not tried to debug it. Works 75% of the time but get occasional interference or no signal at all. Possibly a bad connection on my part.

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

The + cable of the camera should go directly to the Mr 12 Volt. The - should either go to a proper chassis ground like one of the bolts in the battery well. You are able to get the camera working without grounding it at all, and some have had this work better than grounding it. I tried this approach and am having some intermittent interference issues, still have not tried to debug it. Works 75% of the time but get occasional interference or no signal at all. Possibly a bad connection on my part.

I have exactly the same symptoms.
Also with flickering when turning on.
I'll make a video of it.
Have connected + from rear view camera to Mr12volt. Ground I have not connected.

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by Evgenyproject

I have exactly the same symptoms.
Also with flickering when turning on.
I'll make a video of it.
Have connected + from rear view camera to Mr12volt. Ground I have not connected.

You need the 12V stabilizer/rectifier. Can also be bought on aliexpress or amazon.

[Evgenyproject]

Originally Posted by GORDON.M3

You need the 12V stabilizer/rectifier. Can also be bought on aliexpress or amazon.

Does this also apply for direct connection to P2000? So if I have connected + to P2000?!
Have an automatic

[Raphc]

Originally Posted by GORDON.M3

For manual car, you need to connect the 12V lead to the reverse light to be the trigger for the reverse camera. You may experience flickering or black screen due to the PWM state of how power is delivered to the accessories/lights on our cars. You need to purchase an additional 12v stabilizer or "rectifier" which is what they call it.

No you do not need to tap the reverse light.
Just need to connect red wire from camera to 12v + on MR12V. The camera RCa is obviously the video feed but also provides ground.
The trigger is set through the MR12V software. If you a have a manual with PDC this should be set as "parking key".

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by Raphc

No you do not need to tap the reverse light.
Just need to connect red wire from camera to 12v + on MR12V. The camera RCa is obviously the video feed but also provides ground.
The trigger is set through the MR12V software. If you a have a manual with PDC this should be set as "parking key".

Oh awesome, that works too I guess.

Originally Posted by Evgenyproject

Does this also apply for direct connection to P2000? So if I have connected + to P2000?!
Have an automatic

No, if it's DCT/Auto then use the Reverse Camera 12V+ line that's coming out of the Mr12volt unit. The Mr12volt will get the "reverse state" from the CANBUS.
And should not require the 12V stabilizer/rectifier.

[6SPD_N55]

Originally Posted by GORDON.M3

For manual car, you need to connect the 12V lead to the reverse light to be the trigger for the reverse camera. You may experience flickering or black screen due to the PWM state of how power is delivered to the accessories/lights on our cars. You need to purchase an additional 12v stabilizer or "rectifier" which is what they call it.

To be clear, I believe that this statement is correct for manual transmission cars without PDC.

For manual transmission cars with PDC, it is not required to tap into the 12V power for the reverse light. There is a setting that must be switched to "parking key" and it will activate when PDC is activated.

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by 6SPD_N55

To be clear, I believe that this statement is correct for manual transmission cars without PDC.

For manual transmission cars with PDC, it is not required to tap into the 12V power for the reverse light. There is a setting that must be switched to "parking key" and it will activate when PDC is activated.

Yes because once PDC is active in the CANBUS system the Mr12volt picks up on the signal. However for manual cars without PDC you will need a 12V trigger from the reverse signal lights + a 12v rectifier to eliminate the flickering and "black screen" phenomenon.

[Tony B]

It could be my phone, I guess (Samsung Galaxy S8+).

On ignition switch-on, I get the "Android Auto Connecting" message with the spinning whirly thing on the iDrive screen.

But this goes on for ages, 30 seconds or more.

And I cannot select the "Home" icon, or the "back" arrow, just scroll between the main set-up icons.

On my phone, I briefly get a message on screen, saying something similar. But AA seems to crash - that screen disappears. If I hit the icon on the phone, again, it appears briefly.

Then...nothing, just spinning graphics.

Selecting "CD" on the iDrive controller, I can see Mr12Volt, CD01 etc with a tick against it.

But, still no AA icons on the iDrive screen.

Eventually, but without any consistency, stuff does appear on the iDrive screen.

I would just like to hit CD and get on with it, or better still not even think about it, because it has defaulted to the last status, before switch-off.

Anyone else experiencing this?

Once it is working - fine, no problems.

(P2000DSP with June firmware - latest, I think?)

Maybe I should video this to make it a bit clearer...

[tdott]

Originally Posted by Tony B

Anyone else experiencing this?

Auto-connect on my Pixel 6 pro has been pretty good for me, most of the time don't even take the phone out of my pocket.

[Has39]

Has anybody tried using a MMB box ? Interested in buying one and want to know if it will work.

[legomanx51v]

Originally Posted by legomanx51v

So I posted earlier about how securing the connector (with floss!) improved things for me.

An update:
I'm finding now that there is still some crackling noise, and at times I lose the fibre-optic connection completely, which stops the P2000 interface from working at all.
When I tried to re-seat the connector and tighten it again I found it very hard to get into a position where it would be stable. I tried cable ties and even just holding the connector down hard to test if it would work.

From my testing it seems when you move the fibre-optic line that brings the signal IN you get all the problems. The fibre-optic line that takes the signal OUT from the P2000 seems to be able to move without much issues.
I've tried modifying the plastic housing of the connector to make it tighter, or to make the gap between the fibre-optic lines smaller and it's still very temperamental.
I've also tried a different new fibre-optic cable completely.
I'm convinced that some P2000s have a bad MOST female socket connector...

The reason I say this is because I have a 2x P2000 units for an Audi (first unit had no bluetooth and I got a replacement), and I don't see how the MOST connection is significantly better there, yet they work perfectly. My Audi units were pre-order too, but coincidence?

So another update!

I think perhaps for some the popping and clicking noises may be due to the p2000.
In my case I think I have been able to resolve the issue.

As I mentioned earlier moving the fibre-optic line IN caused popping/clicking/disconnection issues. This led me to wonder if the light signal coming through that cable was too weak?
The light signal starts at the head unit. it moves around all the devices as a loop until it eventually reaches the p2000 and then from the p2000 back to the head unit.
In my case there were two devices which I had unplugged from the MOST loop and had bypass connectors for: CD changer and MULF bluetooth unit. I saw these as unnecessary and extra fibreoptic runs.

I decided the remove the fiberoptic cables for these two devices from the loop completely rather than bypassing them. To do this in an E92, you've to remove the rear left seat section where the seatbelt is. This will expose the fibre optic junction box, VERY carefully label the fibre optic wires going in and out and remove the ones going to the unused devices (most likely just the CD changer for the majority of people).

I CANNOT STRESS HOW ANNOYED YOU WILL BE IF YOU MIX UP THE FIBRE CABLES. Label them before removing anything.

Video of the fibre optic junction box:

Video of the p2000 working perfectly fine even while moving the connector in and out of the socket:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/oH_I78yKA4E

If anyone else tries this and it resolves your issues, would be good to hear.

[drwankel]

One thing that jumps out at me with these popping reports, is that at least a few people had upgraded from an older unit, and the older unit showed no problem, and they even confirmed it again by swapping back.

To me that largely eliminates any part of the car from being a culprit, but every setup is different.

Looking at those Porsche forums that were linked, something that really jumps out at me here that was posted on the 8/18:

"Currently testing a beta version of the latest MCU firmware upgrade that mr12volt says addresses the speaker popping issue. So far so good. More information later on."

And then a week later from the same person:

"So far so good everyone. Popping sound seems to be gone with this update"

So it would seem that whatever this issue is, it sounds like it will be able to be corrected with a firmware update, and may not necessarily be a most connection issue.

[legomanx51v]

I agree, the software update would mean it’s unit unlikely to be a cabling issue.
I am just very surprised that before removing the “extra” bypassed loops I couldn’t even hold the cable tight enough against the p2000 for it to stay connected…(and I was getting the associated crackles and pops too) but after removing the extra runs it’s rock solid.
It’s a very direct ”fix” in my case.

Perhaps I was in a scenario where their p2000 unit was fine but the cabling was letting it down.
And perhaps there are others who have perfectly adequate cabling but the unit is defective or needs a firmware update.
Or maybe my unit is only behaving for now and will act up again randomly haha.

Hopefully this info is helpful to others.

[nah dude]

Waiting for 15 people to chime in that they're not having the popping issue with theirs

[Lollo]

Originally Posted by JOJO82

There is no link guys, I found this wholesaler and they don't sell to individuals.

They only sell to businesses, so if interested let me know and I can show you the details.

Alternatively if I'm allowed I can post a link here to the eBay ad when I put it up?

Hey Jojo - is this something like the vividscreen bimmertech sell?

[JOJO82]

Originally Posted by Lollo

Hey Jojo - is this something like the vividscreen bimmertech sell?

Exactly like it

[nah dude]

Originally Posted by JOJO82

Exactly like it

Interesting. So this is a plug and play screen upgrade that doubles or triples the resolution of the stock display, while keeping all OEM functionality? Does this work with both CIC and CCC?

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by nah dude

Waiting for 15 people to chime in that they're not having the popping issue with theirs

I am not having popping issues with my P2000DSP unit. I have listened to music while stationary and driving, and both are good.

My box is situated in the glove compartment with cables entering through the fuse-box hatch (currently removed), and no great stresses on any elements of the harness.

I have noticed that the box does get quite warm if the vents are covered or blocked, and wonder whether those experiencing the popping issue have the box installed in a way that allows it to overheat, or the the FO cable is stressed somewhere behind the iDrive head unit.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by nah dude

Interesting. So this is a plug and play screen upgrade that doubles or triples the resolution of the stock display, while keeping all OEM functionality? Does this work with both CIC and CCC?

Hang on. Actually reading through the data here- this does not seem like an answer for the P2000 on CCC and here's why.

That screen is UPSCALING the image from the CCC- not forcing the CCC to output in a 1280x480 resolution like the CIC.

What this means for the P2000, is the CCC model isnt going to be outputting anything in 1280x480.

You will not get an identical picture to the CIC system- as the output resolution isn't any different. Meaning that in carplay for example, the number of apps on the carplay UI wont change. You'll have a slightly sharper set of still overly large icons and UI elements, and that's it.

Do not confuse upscaling with native resolution.

[nah dude]

Originally Posted by Tony B

I am not having popping issues with my P2000DSP unit. I have listened to music while stationary and driving, and both are good.

My box is situated in the glove compartment with cables entering through the fuse-box hatch (currently removed), and no great stresses on any elements of the harness.

I have noticed that the box does get quite warm if the vents are covered or blocked, and wonder whether those experiencing the popping issue have the box installed in a way that allows it to overheat, or the the FO cable is stressed somewhere behind the iDrive head unit.

Originally Posted by drwankel

Hang on. Actually reading through the data here- this does not seem like an answer for the P2000 on CCC and here's why.

That screen is UPSCALING the image from the CCC- not forcing the CCC to output in a 1280x480 resolution like the CIC.

What this means for the P2000, is the CCC model isnt going to be outputting anything in 1280x480.

You will not get an identical picture to the CIC system- as the output resolution isn't any different. Meaning that in carplay for example, the number of apps on the carplay UI wont change. You'll have a slightly sharper set of still overly large icons and UI elements, and that's it.

Do not confuse upscaling with native resolution.

I have CIC.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by nah dude

I have CIC.

There's no "vividscreen" upgrade for the CIC if you already have the 8.8" screen, which is standard in the M3 with iDrive. Those screen upgrades just attempt to make 8.8" CCC and 6.5" CIC work on a 8.8" CIC 1280x480 style screen.

1280x480 is as good as it gets.

If you want more you are looking at a NBT or NBT evo retrofit.

[nah dude]

Originally Posted by drwankel

There's no "vividscreen" upgrade for the CIC if you already have the 8.8" screen, which is standard in the M3 with iDrive. Those screen upgrades just attempt to make 8.8" CCC and 6.5" CIC work on a 8.8" CIC 1280x480 style screen.

1280x480 is as good as it gets.

If you want more you are looking at a NBT or NBT evo retrofit.

The stock CIC is 1280x480? I didn't realize, much higher than I thought! Thanks for the info!