Timing Chain Tensioner

schlichtm3 · 10-19-2019, 10:16 AM

swapped on the right side. Only the cooling water tank unscrewed and put forward. I left all the hoses on. With a ratchet and a short extension it goes without problems. Everything from above.

Ajolives · 10-19-2019, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schlichtm3

swapped on the right side. Only the cooling water tank unscrewed and put forward. I left all the hoses on. With a ratchet and a short extension it goes without problems. Everything from above.

That's awesome. I never got around to putting mine in but when I do I'll try your method. Seems easier than crawling underneath. Thanks for sharing!

schlichtm3 · 10-28-2019, 05:06 AM

So short info after 9 days with the new chain tensioners (11317839053).
Car stood between 8-24 hours. And 2 times I had again the cold start rattle (clunck - Clunck) direct with the start (once after 8 hours and once after 14 hours).
Therefore i think it is not the chain tensioners.

serranot · 10-28-2019, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schlichtm3

So short info after 9 days with the new chain tensioners (11317839053).
Car stood between 8-24 hours. And 2 times I had again the cold start rattle (clunck - Clunck) direct with the start (once after 8 hours and once after 14 hours).
Therefore i think it is not the chain tensioners.

VANOS?

wfdeacon88 · 10-28-2019, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by serranot

Quote:

Originally Posted by schlichtm3

So short info after 9 days with the new chain tensioners (11317839053).
Car stood between 8-24 hours. And 2 times I had again the cold start rattle (clunck - Clunck) direct with the start (once after 8 hours and once after 14 hours).
Therefore i think it is not the chain tensioners.

VANOS?

I have the occasional cold start rattle... I asked a very respected E9x M3 mechanic and here's the answer I got.

remi34000 · 03-04-2020, 06:17 PM

hello everyone, sorry to put the post up again but i'm bored. I disassemble my tensioners and replace the driver side but the passenger side is impossible to insert. Too much pressure I can't go to the thread. How did you do ?

Ajolives · 03-07-2020, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by remi34000

hello everyone, sorry to put the post up again but i'm bored. I disassemble my tensioners and replace the driver side but the passenger side is impossible to insert. Too much pressure I can't go to the thread. How did you do ?

Did you get it?

TX · 05-05-2020, 06:51 AM

I finally got the passenger side tensioner changed out. Its been about 6 months since I did the driver side. The passenger side was a nightmare.

The only way to do it is to unhook the wire from the coolant tank, flip it as far forward as possible, yes the skinny hose will kink and not unkink so now I need to replace that hose. Then blindly using parts from a half dozen socket/extension/ratchet/wobbler... sets rig up something ... I even used a flex head ratchet with the above that can get on the tensioner without hitting the head, AC pipes, or everything else around it.

Back it out a million turns, don't drop it.
Replace and re-thread by hand a dozen turns. Then pray you actually started it and it doesn't fall out. Throw your rigged socket mess back on it and tighten to 65nm (yep I got a digital torque wrench on the last bit)
Only reason I did it was I had the valve covers off and plenum off. I've tried before for hours and gave up.

So in reality it can in fact be done with a little blood left behind.

Insomniaroy · 08-13-2021, 07:17 AM

I tried to change this tensioner today. Tried many different length sockets, extensions, wobblers, ratchets. It's either too short, too long or cannot kink enough. It need to be within 2-3 mm to fit.
Probably there is a special tool for this. I was about to loosen the engine mounts to jack the engine up just a few cm but then I thought "F-it , let those #%$@ at the stealership deal with this. It's just not worth the risk of injuries and not getting the new tensioner in. They can have those really sh-tty jobs and do the swearing themselves.

10-19-2019, 10:16 AM	#45
schlichtm3 Driver 157 Rep 155 Posts Drives: M4 Competition 2019 Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Germany iTrader: (0)	swapped on the right side. Only the cooling water tank unscrewed and put forward. I left all the hoses on. With a ratchet and a short extension it goes without problems. Everything from above. Attached Images
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10-28-2019, 05:06 AM	#47
schlichtm3 Driver 157 Rep 155 Posts Drives: M4 Competition 2019 Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Germany iTrader: (0)	So short info after 9 days with the new chain tensioners (11317839053). Car stood between 8-24 hours. And 2 times I had again the cold start rattle (clunck - Clunck) direct with the start (once after 8 hours and once after 14 hours). Therefore i think it is not the chain tensioners.
	Appreciate 1 Theodore668.50 Quote

03-04-2020, 06:17 PM	#50
remi34000 Private 25 Rep 70 Posts Drives: m3 e92 Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: france iTrader: (0)	hello everyone, sorry to put the post up again but i'm bored. I disassemble my tensioners and replace the driver side but the passenger side is impossible to insert. Too much pressure I can't go to the thread. How did you do ?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-05-2020, 06:51 AM	#52
TX Captain 366 Rep 860 Posts Drives: 2009 ///M3 E92 APW 6MT Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: South FL iTrader: (0)	I finally got the passenger side tensioner changed out. Its been about 6 months since I did the driver side. The passenger side was a nightmare. The only way to do it is to unhook the wire from the coolant tank, flip it as far forward as possible, yes the skinny hose will kink and not unkink so now I need to replace that hose. Then blindly using parts from a half dozen socket/extension/ratchet/wobbler... sets rig up something ... I even used a flex head ratchet with the above that can get on the tensioner without hitting the head, AC pipes, or everything else around it. Back it out a million turns, don't drop it. Replace and re-thread by hand a dozen turns. Then pray you actually started it and it doesn't fall out. Throw your rigged socket mess back on it and tighten to 65nm (yep I got a digital torque wrench on the last bit) Only reason I did it was I had the valve covers off and plenum off. I've tried before for hours and gave up. So in reality it can in fact be done with a little blood left behind. __________________
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-13-2021, 07:17 AM	#53
Insomniaroy New Member 26 Rep 22 Posts Drives: 2010 E92 M3 DCT Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: NL iTrader: (0)	You need millimeter-precision toold I tried to change this tensioner today. Tried many different length sockets, extensions, wobblers, ratchets. It's either too short, too long or cannot kink enough. It need to be within 2-3 mm to fit. Probably there is a special tool for this. I was about to loosen the engine mounts to jack the engine up just a few cm but then I thought "F-it , let those #%$@ at the stealership deal with this. It's just not worth the risk of injuries and not getting the new tensioner in. They can have those really sh-tty jobs and do the swearing themselves.
	Appreciate 0 Quote