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06-25-2020, 09:46 AM | #1 |
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Vortech v-3 rebuild and impeller upgrade
I tackled this job last week for my v-3si unit used on my ESS625 kit
I had apx 20-25k on the unit and decided it was time. There were no leaks or loud bearings, just preventative. There are two online retailers that offer rebuild kits: Superchargerrebuild.com and 928motorsports.com I emailed both companies, choosing to go with the company that was quicker to respond to inquiries and a bit more affordable. I ordered the standard kit with mechanical seal, this is abx $275 and is essentially exact replacement parts. The kit includes 4 bearings, case seal, and 2 oil seals (input/output) shaft. I also ordered a mid range aluminum impeller upgrade and redesigned oil slinger. ($350+35) The mid/low range impeller you will see pictured. The claim with impeller is earlier boost with a sacrifice at high rpms. Anyone with this system knows it’s a dog until you get over 4500rpm. My hope is for boost earlier in the rpm range..... You will need a small press to complete the job with confidence, I’ve had one for years purchased as HF Tools for $70. a great tool worth the price. I studied the online generic guide for rebuilds posted at: http://www.starrland.com/Supercharge...%202-22-08.pdf The most difficult part of disassembly was removing the impeller which has a tapered shaft and is heat fit over the impeller shaft. It is recommended that you use a torch and hammer to remove the impeller. This works, it takes patience. So...be patient and liberal with your heat. Tap tap tappy the shaft and it will inch it’s way off. The bearings came off quite easily, 3/4 were able to be removed with finger pressure. The last bearing on the input shaft fell apart, i was able to simply grip the inner race and tap the shaft to remove. The instructions available online are excellent. I only ran into one issue, being the oil seal for the (impeller) shaft. The original oem seal is an mechanical one that is made of metal and plastic. The plastic can and will crack or break if it is not installed perfect and the seal will fail. (I’ve heard) After damaging the oem style seal I chose to order the synthetic rubber alternative which offered two sealing rings instead of one. This is actually a more affordable seal than oem, you can opt for this seal when choosing your kit. I would recommend it. Aside from the input seal issue, reassembly was simple, make certain that all washers are in the correct cavity and that the impeller seal is installed to the correct depth in the housing. Use some type of shaft sealing approach to get the impeller shaft through the seal as described in the original instructions. The new aluminum impeller installed easily, no heat required, just torque it down. The impeller pushes against the sealing washer pushing against the oil seal completing the seal. Once assembled and oiled you can use a power tool to spin the unit and make sure there are no crazy issues. This is apx a 2hr job if you don’t mess anything up. I also ordered a new reverse thread impeller nut, as you can cause some damage to the nut while tapping off the old impeller. Although it seems daunting, the design and function of these units is very simple. Take your time and take lots of pictures as you disassemble. Specifically, the depth of the impeller and pulley oil seals, the orientation of the volute to the case and the number of wave washers in the case. I have approximately 100 miles on the new rebuilt unit. The impeller definitely creates boost earlier but I have yet to get a true determination of its impact as temps in Vegas are through the roof. The impeller creates a bit more sound as well. I will try and link a video. I am quite happy I chose to do this myself. It is not difficult to complete if you have a press and a set of nuts. Fell free to reach out with any questions. I will update this post with more details on the impeller upgrade as I get more time with the vehicle. Last edited by LastMCar; 06-25-2020 at 09:56 AM.. |
09-17-2020, 05:47 PM | #3 |
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vortech sells an upgraded supercharger to the v3si, it is a t-trim, will fit the same bracket, it creates, more cfm 1400, vs the si 1050 cfm,
More will create boost sooner, without killing top end. |
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09-19-2020, 01:03 PM | #5 |
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Boost/psi is resistance, the manifold will fill faster. Cfm is how much air it moves into the manifold, so more cfm. So a larger supercharger that makes 6 psi more cfm will make more power than a 6 psi supercharger which is small.
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09-19-2020, 04:22 PM | #6 |
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I am still not sure that it makes more boost sooner. I don’t doubt it could make more boost if you spun it faster that you actually will spin it on a stock block S65. The Si Trim is probably more efficient in the flow rate and pressure ratio it will take to make 550 rwhp on an S65. The Ti Trim will, at some point where the Si Trim becomes less efficient, flow more air per psi than the Ti trim. But more air per psi is actually less boost when you have a ceiling due to factors like compression ratio, knock and available octane, and cylinder pressure/rod strength. Again, I am not sure there is any advantage to having a bigger blower drag harder on the crank for the airflow limits of a stock block S65.
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09-21-2020, 03:04 PM | #7 |
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Nice. Do you feel any big difference? Also Not sure what company did you used but, from personal experience I can tell everybody to AVOID Superchargerrebuild.com. I loosed over $1,100.
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09-25-2020, 05:37 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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2011 Frozen Black/Fox Red E90 M3 650+WHP
G-Power Supercharged First DCT to Manual Conversion Worldwide KW CS, BBS RI-A, BW Headers, Snow 2.5 |
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