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      05-17-2022, 09:17 PM   #1
P1zzaboy
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Tuning dual/triple dampers

Hi guys,

I'd like to use this thread to gather your experiences in tuning your dampers. I'd recently moved from ST to JRZ 2 way dampers and I'm lost. Id like to know where do you start from, what behaviours you try to look for, what kinds of feel results in faster lap times.

So far i experimented the baseline setup, and moved a few clicks up and down both rebound and compression, at the same time and separately. I can feel a difference each time but am unsure what's affected by bump and what's affected by rebound. Ive always been more the kind to '' try to be fast with what you have''. With my last setup (single adj.) I just cranked rebound until it lost grip in bumpy braking zones, or lost traction from slow corners.

So, What's your method? What are you looking for to extract the best from the dampers?
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      05-18-2022, 03:44 PM   #2
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Gat'damn! You're carrying some speed through that turn, what track are you tearing up in that pic? Absolutely loving your E92 from that one pic alone.
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      05-18-2022, 07:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sterile stork View Post
Gat'damn! You're carrying some speed through that turn, what track are you tearing up in that pic? Absolutely loving your E92 from that one pic alone.
That's Canadian tire Motorsport park (mosport).

Supposedly In the top 3 fastest tracks in North America
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      05-21-2022, 06:28 AM   #4
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I have JRZ and when I got mind, I was in the same state as you are. I am now very comfortable tuning them exactly how I want them to be.

From my experience, it is hard to get help because it is a very complicated multi facets topic and very hard to explain. It deals with interaction of many variables.

So people just resorted to making it as stiff as they can, but I found that to not be optimal.

I am a person that like to tinker and with a 4-way JRZ I tried almost any combination of clicks, including spring rate changes. I now can tune my car to exactly how I want it, one click at a time.

shoot me a PM if you want to further discuss.

I'll try to help.
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      05-21-2022, 08:06 AM   #5
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See the .pdf attached to this post linked below using a desktop browser. The mobile App will not show .pdf attachments.
File is called, "The Black Art of Adjustable Dampers". Hope you enjoy it.
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https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28774052
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File Type: pdf The_Black_Art_of_Adjustable_Dampers.pdf (11.45 MB, 30 views)
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Last edited by DrFerry; 05-24-2022 at 04:26 PM..
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      05-22-2022, 11:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
See the .pdf attached to this post linked below using a desktop browser. The mobile App will not show .pdf attachments.
File is called, "The Black Art of Adjustable Dampers". Hope you enjoy it.
.
https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28774052
Will have a look! Thanks!
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      05-23-2022, 02:04 PM   #7
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I would suggest you take someone with you who has proven experience with setup. It's not something to be taken lightly.
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      05-23-2022, 09:51 PM   #8
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      05-29-2022, 04:21 PM   #9
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Be careful with making frequent adjustments. Is it the suspension or the driver?

I usually just start in the middle. Maybe a little stiffer/harder/slower on the rears.
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      05-30-2022, 01:23 PM   #10
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To expand a little bit...

One should know what compression and rebound are...pretty much self-explanatory.

One should also understand the dynamics of weight transfer and tires. More weight over a tire equals more grip up to a point. The driver has to be able to distinguish between if understeer/oversteer is induced by not enough weight transfer or too much? Without that you'll likely be applying the wrong solution to fix a problem that might not exist. Which is why I discourage novice or intermediate drivers from screwing with suspension adjustments.

That is a skill - translating feedback from the car. My buddy sucks at it and it is making it very difficult to fix a handling issue. Finally figured out that his rear diff was shot, which was part of it. Also has some other issues - rear ride height too low, need more camber in front. We haven't even touched a damper adjustment. My hypothesis is I can get him to about a 95% solution with some damper setting tweaks getting him to being really happy.

The terms stiffer, heavier, slower, higher - all synonymous with the damper reacting slower. If you turn up the front compression or rear rebound then you get less dive under braking and less weight transfer. Which one is right? Probably need to ask someone that is far more experienced than I am.

I've ran x2 adjustable TC Klines on my E46 M3, I've made 5 adjustments over the past 10 years of owning those dampers. Three of those changes coincided with a minor spring rate change. Is there room for improvement? I'm fairly certain. That's where I lack the knowledge and skills to get the car to that next level.

I will say that most think more is better and run their cars too stiff. Especially in the BMW community. Most turn up the front damping to reduce dive which lessens the dynamic camber change on turn in. This better optimizes tire grip and life for a stock suspension. Really need to run a lot more negative camber which greatly improves turn in. Many will carry on with this setup even with camber plates.
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