1K miles with my "new" M3: the odd noises/behaviors thread

[Freiheit]

I've put about 1k on my car since I bought it last fall, and I've experienced some odd things that may indicate stuff that needs to be replaced. Then again, it might just be "normal" E9X spasms. You guys with experience can tell me what I should be concerned about.
The car is a 2011 E92 Comp DCT, 20k miles. Mods are Dinan suspension, Remus Race with connecting pipes, Alex@Alpine Stage 1 engine and DCT GTS tunes, and a boatload of CF exterior parts.

1). Stall at a light. About a week before I got my Alpine tunes done, I came down the interstate at a pretty good clip, took a nice turn at the bottom of the ramp due to a fresh green light, and powered through to the next light about 3/4 mile after the offramp. I pulled up to the light, stopped, and the engine shut off. I called it a "stall" but it really wasn't like that. There was no warning, shudder, or idle hunting - the car shut off like I had the auto start/stop enabled (which I don't). No warning lights and I don't recall the DCT changing to N when it happened, but I didn't know to look for that. I haven't found anything in threads here other than one about a possible bad alternator. However, my car just passed a diagnostic at the local BMW dealer, and they won't pass up an opportunity to sell me anything for my car so I doubt that my alternator is bad.

2). Idle hunting. One day about a week ago I was stopped to wait for cross traffic, and the idle started swinging. I saw the tach needle bouncing through a range of about 500rpm. It was a cold day, and I hadn't driven the car in about 10 days. I realized that I had the AC on even though the windows were open, so I shut it off and the idle tightened up.
Possible solutions were found in this thread started by NYCDude. It describes possible component failures but says the idle hunt can be tamed by turning the AC on, not off like I did.

3). Clackity noises. This is a weird one. I started the car after a week's rest (I try to drive it two days a week max) and I heard a noise that sounded like someone stuck a playing card into a desk fan. It also reminded me of when old school popup headlamp gears used to slip. There were no codes or lights, and the noise went away after a couple of seconds total. I couldn't tell for certain where the noise was coming from because I have it parked in my concrete bunker of a garage so the sound reflections are pretty wicked (cold start is mind boggling even with my stock pipes). Only heard it a couple of times. I wouldn't even begin to know what to search for on this. Hopefully its not TA.

4). Folding mirrors go on strike. It seldom happens but the mirrors will not fold when I lock the car. They'll just look at me like "wut?" until the next time I drive and then lock the car and they work perfectly.

5). The stereo does not appreciate quiet time. When I get to my destination and get out of the car the stereo will not shut off unless I physically turn it off by pushing the button before I get out of the car. The best part is that the Bluetooth won't let go of my phone unless I do this. Several times I was just making a quick stop (coffee) and figured I'd just let the stereo have its fun, but as I was walking away the incredibly loud ringer noise came through from the paired phone. I answered via my handset but the conversation still went through the stereo. I'd like it if the BT would disengage with the vehicle off, like every other BT-equipped car I own. I'd really like to be able to turn down the damn ringer noise because an incoming phone call will make me jump out of my skin even when I'm doing about 65 through a turn, full opposite lock, with the engine screaming.

[MaximusB]

1. Could be your breather valve going bad.

2. Could be your breather valve going bad.

3. No idea what you’re trying to describe.

4. Folding mirror when lock/unlocking the car is a coded feature, not stock. Usually you need to hold down the lock button for a few second on the remote fold the mirrors. Next time try holding down the lock button and see.

5. When you shut the car off: one short press of the engine start/stop button will shut the engine off and keep stereo on. One long press or double press will shut everything off including the radio. Also you can down the ringer volume on the steering wheel volume control when someone is calling.

[Freiheit]

Originally Posted by MaximusB

Folding mirror when lock/unlocking the car is a coded feature, not stock. Usually you need to hold down the lock button for a few second on the remote fold the mirrors. Next time try holding down the lock button and see.

I had it added as part of my coding from Alex. I've never had to touch the lock longer than necessary to lock the car and fold the mirrors, which is why this is so odd.

Originally Posted by MaximusB

When you shut the car off: one short press of the engine start/stop button will shut the engine off and keep stereo on. One long press or double press will shut everything off including the radio.

If I'd thought like a long-time BMW owner I might have realized that one. BMW is famous for making one button do multiple things depending on usage and context. I'll try that on my next ride. Thanks for the tip.

[kscarrol]

I have the mirror folding coded as well and it definitely takes a press and hold, not the simple press to lock the car. My coding is not from Alex so not sure if the time holding the button is a setting or not...

[Solo_M_Tech]

Originally Posted by Freiheit

I've put about 1k on my car since I bought it last fall, and I've experienced some odd things that may indicate stuff that needs to be replaced. Then again, it might just be "normal" E9X spasms. You guys with experience can tell me what I should be concerned about.
The car is a 2011 E92 Comp DCT, 20k miles. Mods are Dinan suspension, Remus Race with connecting pipes, Alex@Alpine Stage 1 engine and DCT GTS tunes, and a boatload of CF exterior parts.

1). Stall at a light. About a week before I got my Alpine tunes done, I came down the interstate at a pretty good clip, took a nice turn at the bottom of the ramp due to a fresh green light, and powered through to the next light about 3/4 mile after the offramp. I pulled up to the light, stopped, and the engine shut off. I called it a "stall" but it really wasn't like that. There was no warning, shudder, or idle hunting - the car shut off like I had the auto start/stop enabled (which I don't). No warning lights and I don't recall the DCT changing to N when it happened, but I didn't know to look for that. I haven't found anything in threads here other than one about a possible bad alternator. However, my car just passed a diagnostic at the local BMW dealer, and they won't pass up an opportunity to sell me anything for my car so I doubt that my alternator is bad.

2). Idle hunting. One day about a week ago I was stopped to wait for cross traffic, and the idle started swinging. I saw the tach needle bouncing through a range of about 500rpm. It was a cold day, and I hadn't driven the car in about 10 days. I realized that I had the AC on even though the windows were open, so I shut it off and the idle tightened up.
Possible solutions were found in this thread started by NYCDude. It describes possible component failures but says the idle hunt can be tamed by turning the AC on, not off like I did.

3). Clackity noises. This is a weird one. I started the car after a week's rest (I try to drive it two days a week max) and I heard a noise that sounded like someone stuck a playing card into a desk fan. It also reminded me of when old school popup headlamp gears used to slip. There were no codes or lights, and the noise went away after a couple of seconds total. I couldn't tell for certain where the noise was coming from because I have it parked in my concrete bunker of a garage so the sound reflections are pretty wicked (cold start is mind boggling even with my stock pipes). Only heard it a couple of times. I wouldn't even begin to know what to search for on this. Hopefully its not TA.

4). Folding mirrors go on strike. It seldom happens but the mirrors will not fold when I lock the car. They'll just look at me like "wut?" until the next time I drive and then lock the car and they work perfectly.

5). The stereo does not appreciate quiet time. When I get to my destination and get out of the car the stereo will not shut off unless I physically turn it off by pushing the button before I get out of the car. The best part is that the Bluetooth won't let go of my phone unless I do this. Several times I was just making a quick stop (coffee) and figured I'd just let the stereo have its fun, but as I was walking away the incredibly loud ringer noise came through from the paired phone. I answered via my handset but the conversation still went through the stereo. I'd like it if the BT would disengage with the vehicle off, like every other BT-equipped car I own. I'd really like to be able to turn down the damn ringer noise because an incoming phone call will make me jump out of my skin even when I'm doing about 65 through a turn, full opposite lock, with the engine screaming.

To help you with item 3.

When the car is parked for long periods of time, oil in the vanos units are completely drained. Therefore there is a lack of oil pressure. After a second or so at start up, you hear that clack noise. That is the vanos adjuster units getting slammed with 5-6 bar of oil pressure all at once. Its supposedly not detrimental to the units, but doesnt sound very nice.

[Freiheit]

Originally Posted by Solo_M_Tech

To help you with item 3.

When the car is parked for long periods of time, oil in the vanos units are completely drained. Therefore there is a lack of oil pressure. After a second or so at start up, you hear that clack noise. That is the vanos adjuster units getting slammed with 5-6 bar of oil pressure all at once. Its supposedly not detrimental to the units, but doesnt sound very nice.

Thank you!

[amrazM]

2011 your car Should be a start stop car make sure the light is illuminated on the button.

[Freiheit]

Originally Posted by amrazM

2011 your car Should be a start stop car make sure the light is illuminated on the button.

Having driven a Stinger that did that to me on a test drive, I've had Auto Start/Stop disabled from day one, and I've never touched the button since. I wish I could just rip the entire circuit out like it didn't exist.

[wfdeacon88]

Originally Posted by Freiheit

Having driven a Stinger that did that to me on a test drive, I've had Auto Start/Stop disabled from day one, and I've never touched the button since. I wish I could just rip the entire circuit out like it didn't exist.

dumbest feature ever for this car. Not having one that has it, does it star in a more mellow tone when driving around? just curious. I picture a loud cold start at every stoplight and think how absurd that would be...

[DanMpower]

OP, when problems 1 and 2 occurred, did you happened to have a full tank of gas?

[Helmsman]

20k miles, car's close to brand new OP. Sounds like you need a bit more seat time to get used to some of the M3 tricks, no worries. I'd get back to OEM sw mean while.

[mapster37]

1 and 2 sound like a faulty purge valve. pretty common failure on these cars

[Scrippy]

#4 could be coded for long press or normal press. Something with your coding is up if the stereo doesn't turn off when you lock the car.

[Freiheit]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

#4 could be coded for long press or normal press. Something with your coding is up if the stereo doesn't turn off when you lock the car.

I tried what Maximus said to do - hold the Engine button down for longer - and it shut the stereo down. Brilliant, now I don't have to go for the power button on the DVD player anymore. I wish I could hit the "Appreciate" button a second time on his post.

Originally Posted by M and Ms

OP, when problems 1 and 2 occurred, did you happened to have a full tank of gas?

I don't recall what state the tank was in on the previous attempts, but the idle swing happened today. I was well into the reserve, at about 1/8 tank and the miles remaining said "50". My wife was riding with me and she started bitching about me revving the engine at the light (she hates when I do that in any of our stick-equipped vehicles) and I had to convince her I wasn't touching the pedal. (When logic and evidence fail, reminding her that I'm still considering whether or not she'll be getting an M240 in the spring works like a charm)

[Freiheit]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

20k miles, car's close to brand new OP. Sounds like you need a bit more seat time to get used to some of the M3 tricks, no worries. I'd get back to OEM sw mean while.

I know its not even broken in! At 20k miles my E46 M3's were still picking up speed.

I would have just left the software alone, but I wanted some coding done, needed the Sirius enabled, and I also planned on doing some cat-deleting later on, and BOOF had a limited number of group buy spots left with Alex. I figured "WTH?".

I should mention again that the car hasn't died out since the software install. I also like how the DCT behaves with this software.

[Freiheit]

Originally Posted by mapster37

1 and 2 sound like a faulty purge valve. pretty common failure on these cars

Others have said it was the fuel tank breather, you're the first one who mentioned the purge valve. Those are usually at the charcoal canister on older cars that had that system - do these cars have them? I haven't seen one since 1999 or so.

[ItsGary]

Originally Posted by Freiheit

Others have said it was the fuel tank breather, you're the first one who mentioned the purge valve. Those are usually at the charcoal canister on older cars that had that system - do these cars have them? I haven't seen one since 1999 or so.

Nah. Its the fuel breather valve. P/N 13907838281

[Transfer]

Is idle control valve the same as a breather valve? Because ICV is a common fault problem and 1 and 2 sound like that issue. I have the same problem but it rarely shows itself so I haven't done anything about it. My prior E90M also had this.

[ItsGary]

Originally Posted by Transfer

Is idle control valve the same as a breather valve? Because ICV is a common fault problem and 1 and 2 sound like that issue. I have the same problem but it rarely shows itself so I haven't done anything about it. My prior E90M also had this.

No, ICV is a different part. I believe the ICV had a recall in the US.

[Freiheit]

Originally Posted by Transfer

Is idle control valve the same as a breather valve? Because ICV is a common fault problem and 1 and 2 sound like that issue. I have the same problem but it rarely shows itself so I haven't done anything about it. My prior E90M also had this.

ICV is similar to the IAC in most domestics, which allows metered air to bypass the throttle blades to keep the idle above a minimum in situations where the throttle blades are closed, like at a stoplight.

[Mvy]

You might need breather for 1 and ICV for 2. Both common issues.

[Freiheit]

Originally Posted by Mvy

You might need breather for 1 and ICV for 2. Both common issues.

I'll get a couple in stock on my garage shelves and replace them if the situation persists.