Build Journal of Signature Wheel Track Project

[Signature Wheel BMW]

Originally Posted by reidetailing

Any news on the SuperTech Valve Kit?

I was thinking about doing this while performing the install of my Schrick292 cams w/Schrick Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers.

SuperTech valve and springs kit works great for me. Stock cams, Evolved tune to redline at 8600 - very rev happy. Did it as a preventative against OEM valve springs failure. If you go with Schrick cams, then go with their springs / retainer setup.

Depending on what you're trying to achieve, I don't think spending $6k on cams and springs + install will give you the "wow" factor you're looking for - at least not $ per power. If you crave power, just do G1 supercharger with larger pulley for lower heat issues on track. D088 full cooling package. It adds that lowest weight compared to any other FI kit. You can easily remove 80LB from inside of the car to make up for it.

[Signature Wheel BMW]

I was this old when I discovered Rivnut. Install canards properly without needing to remove the bumper.

6mm Rivnut, used Astro Pneumatic Tool PRN1 to install. Super easy.

$80 eBay CF canards. Had to drill holes to install, held up at 120mph+ when tested.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by Signature Wheel BMW

I was this old when I discovered Rivnut. Install canards properly without needing to remove the bumper.

6mm Rivnut, used Astro Pneumatic Tool PRN1 to install. Super easy.

$80 eBay CF canards. Had to drill holes to install, held up at 120mph+ when tested.

I have used rivnuts to mount so much stuff, my entire wide body kit is held on with them

[reidetailing]

Originally Posted by Signature Wheel BMW

SuperTech valve and springs kit works great for me. Stock cams, Evolved tune to redline at 8600 - very rev happy. Did it as a preventative against OEM valve springs failure. If you go with Schrick cams, then go with their springs / retainer setup.

Sorry I was referring to this:
https://ipg-supertech.com/products/s...-0l-v8-engines

Do you like those, and would you recommend?

[Signature Wheel BMW]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

I have used rivnuts to mount so much stuff, my entire wide body kit is held on with them

Check out Plus Nuts as well, designed for higher force applications.

[Signature Wheel BMW]

Originally Posted by reidetailing

Sorry I was referring to this:
https://ipg-supertech.com/products/s...-0l-v8-engines

Do you like those, and would you recommend?

Yes, these are what I used. Great for NA or boosted applications.
You can send your heads to Nolands Cylinder Heads in KC or use someone you trust locally who can perform multiple angle valve jobs. Also, while the heads are off you can have the heads shop machine the ITBs to match the heads perfectly (no step transition), maybe with 1mm larger gasket opening. Might help a bit more with airflow. See photo below. Also, replace the oil check valves on the heads (there's 4 of them) and delete EGR/Secondary Air Pump if you don't have cats.

[Signature Wheel BMW]

Trailing Arms Refresh

The trailing arm is a sacrificial part of the suspension, it is light and weak by design. You do not want stronger arms, instead get new ones (as older stamped steel trailing arms are fatigued with age) and convert those mushy 14yr old bushings to monoball.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• 2x 33322406291 BMW Trailing Arm with bolts includes
• 4x 3067901 Lemforder Control Arm Bushing (alternative is Meyle 31471005)
• Tool: B8800101 Bavarian Autosport Trailing Arm Bushing Tool

I have full SPL suspension components and solid subframe bushing. These are the last rubber bushings left to do, this improves rear feel and keep toe alignments true.

Note: Mark the old bushing exposed position and make a mark on the new ones before pressing. If your old trailing arms looked kinked, you’ll need an alignment. If the old arms looked finr and are the same length, no alignment is needed.

[Signature Wheel BMW]

Update. Car feels incredibly tight. Deleted the sunroof with Nelson Racing Product, saved 35LB on top of the car.


Fluids used:
Oil: Ravenol 10w60, it's the closest match to OEM fluid in terms of cold and operating viscosity. This is PAO based and offers highest HTHS rating of 5.8 vs OEM 5.2. Oil temp stayed under 250F on a 85F day.
MT Transmission Fluid: RAVENOL Gear Oil MTF-2 75W-80 GL-4, it shifts smoother than RL MTF.
Diff Fluid: RAVENOL Gear Oil SLS 75W-140 GL-5 LS, I hear a slight whine after a hot session. Could be in my head, it has the proper friction modifier and high grade PAO based oil.
Coolant: OEM coolant and distilled water mixed 1:3, added 1 bottle of water wetter.
Brake Fluid: Castrol SRF, best wet boiling temp for longer usage between bleeds.

Noted, I'm not sponsored by Ravenol. I love their specs and my track buddies run them after trying other products.